DanielJW

Yeah high and low cuts really help with that. What I do is place a Simple EQ block at the start of the chain and put a low cut of around 100-150hz. I use this mainly on overdriven amps, this helps control the flabby low end muddiness going into the front end of the amp. To tame any high end ice pick fizz I use another Simple EQ block at the end of the chain, usually at around 10-15khz with my setup, but using the high cut on the Cab/IR works just as well. Also try experimenting with different mic models and the Mic Distance parameter. You can achieve some great results doing that too, I've only recently discovered that and I've been using the Helix for over a year and a half!!!

I also use it with a Strat for the clean/edge of breakup sounds. It really makes it chime. It sounds great as a light overdrive too. It's definitely one of my top 3 favorite models in the Helix.

I'd say the Brit 2204 should be somewhere in the ballpark, seeing as the Jubilee was somewhat based off of the JCM800, for the cabs I'd try out the a few of the 4x12 models and see what works best for you. I know a lot of people think there's too many Marshall style amps in the Helix but I'd happily take a Jubilee model, as it's my real world amp, it's got a nice dark overdrive with a thick low mid-range. I think a new Jubilee model would be a very welcomed addition to the Helix.

I only ever use the drives for lead and higher gain stuff to push the front end of the amp. The drive models I use are mainly the Klon, EP Boost, Big Muff and occasionally a Fuzz Face into a fairly overdriven amp. I can understand what you mean with the Big Muff, I use the EP Boost in front of it going into a clean amp, the boost really thickens up the sound and adds power. I've never been a huge fan of the TS-808 but in my experience, I've had better results using the Helix model than when I've played the actual pedal into an amp.

I got in touch with the dealer and they've sent it away to be repaired under the warranty. Apparently it'll take around two weeks. It's been 13 long days without now, so hopefully I'll hear something in the next few days.

I updated it to the previous firmware and it still isn't working. I'm thinking it might be the unit itself rather than the firmware.

Yeah I'm using the new HX Edit. I'll try it again later and see if it still happens.

I've just updated to the 2.3 firmware and my Helix won't scroll through through the models when I use the joystick. I can click them up and down ect so it's not the end of the world but it is much easier and quicker to just scroll through everything. Is this a known problem? Has anyone else had this issue? I'm not sure what to do about it, I've tried the old turning it off and on again trick but it's still the same. Thanks

I managed to get rid of the clipping by going onto the audio setup on Studio One and under the Device Block Size I changed the settings from 64 Samples to 256 samples and it works fine for the Helix. The 64 Samples setting works fine on the Zoom R24 but not the Helix. Is there anything I could change on the Helix to use it with the 64 Samples setting?

I've used the Helix as an audio interface before and have had no trouble with any noise issues. Although recently When playing back the recorded tracks using Presonus Studio One DAW I hear a lot of high pitch popping and crackling. The tracks peak at -12db so the audio isn't distorting. Even when I solo one of the tracks which can be as low as -24db the popping still occurs. I've tried using a different USB cable, using the headphone output and the 1/4 outputs and it still keeps happening. However when I tried using the Zoom R24 as my interface there were no noise issues, I also used headphones directly from my computer and there are no issues there either. I'm not sure if I've got the inputs and outputs set incorrectly or if it's set up differently to before. I've tried playing about with them and I still can't figure out why this is happening. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.

I have my Helix on Diago Tourman pedalboard along with a power supply and a few different pedals. I just removed rubber feet off the bottom and covered the bottom with velcro. When I did this I made sure to push it down and twist it around a little to get it to really grip onto the board. It's worked out surprisingly well, it's stayed firmly in place up to now.

I tried adjusting the mic gain and it was better but not perfect. Then checked the mic and one of the wires had come loose and had to soldered back in place. Thanks for your replies.

I tried to record some acoustic parts using the Helix yesterday. I don't use an electric acoustic so I mic it up. The signal chain was Shure SM57 into the mic input, then I ran it through the LA Studio Comp - Studio Preamp - Reverb then out of the Helix into a Zoom R24 recorder. I know that the 57 isn't exactly the best mic for an acoustic but I've achieved good results with it by plugging directly into the R24 before. No matter what I tried I just couldn't get enough volume going into the recorder. I tried turning all the levels on the Helix and the effects up but it wasn't having much of an effect. The only way I could get a strong enough signal was to turn up the gain on the recorder which resulted in a lot of noise. In the end I plugged directly into the R24 and the signal was fine. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or totally going the wrong way about this. Thanks.

Thanks for all your replies, it's really helped me out a lot. I sit the cabinet on an Aurelex Great Gramma V2 which is an acoustic isolation platform, just to try and take the floor out of the equation as much as possible. The Gemini doesn't have an offset mode but it does have an Empower control which alters the response of the speakers from frfr to a more mid focused darker response of a guitar cab, I set it to full frfr to save colouring the sound too much. Thanks to JLondon for suggesting using the Studio Tube Preamp in front of the amp model. It's surprisingly effective, there is so much more clarity and it also seems to have gotten rid of all the rough edges/any harshness that I was experiencing and just sounds great!!! I'd recommend experimenting with the studio preamp before using the cab to cut lows/highs. I just wish I'd have found out about this sooner!

I've been using the G10 a lot recently and the only issue I have is the USB power supply. I was thinking how much more practical it would if it could be powered from your pedalboard power supply eg 9v adapter to G10 charger. Does anyone know if an adapter like this exists and what it would be called? Or if I'd be able to get one built at an electronics store or something like that? Thanks