Flyers_V88

Yeah, I've looked into back, and I can see it's bolted on in various places. I could do it, but too much hassle lol. I'm gonna have the grill re-clothed to look more vintage at some point, I'll have the person take it off then.

Yeah, I was worried about potential noise. Only way to safely get rid of it is to re-cloth the entire grill I'm guessing?

Sorry, yes, the grille cloth. I took the plate off the plastic. I want to now remove the plastic brace that sits on top, or is glued to the grille. Can't seem to figure that out. I don't want to rip it off either.

Thanks. Yeah, there's really not much info online. It's either glued on, or is park of the meshing.? Worst case, I could re-tolex the grill.

Like I said, you're correct in that using random tubes or not matched, or incorrect biasing will result in the issues you described. PEOPLE, DO NOT REPLACE TUBES YOURSELF UNLESS YOU'RE A TRAINED TECH! ENSURE TUBE COMPATIBILITY AGAINST THE DEFAULT TUBE SPECS THAT CAME WITH THE AMP! MATCHED ONLY! ENSURE TO BIAS CORRECTLY! lol. My comments were basically assuming most competent tube amp owners know these basic facts haha. No matter the amp type, unless it comes with auto-biasing and can take different tube types, you always need to ensure the tube selection meets the performance requirements of the amp. I was just highlighting that if you know what you're doing, you can select alternate tubes to potentially achieve some changes in the amp's tone.

The key is to use correctly matched power tubes that fit the criteria of the amp. In this case, the ONLY hard criteria are 6L6/5881 tubes and that they be matched. I'm not saying the posters are incorrect, however, using other branded tubes that fit the criteria of the amp is NOT an issue. You CAN use ANY brand of tube so long as if fits the criteria. Do not limit yourself to the cheap tubes the amp came with. The waveform characteristics and interaction between the tubes will ONLY affect the tone. There will be no structural damage. The issue here is that different tubes will potentially yield different tones than the amp is intended for. This can be a good thing or bad thing depending on your tonal taste.

Get the issue fixed? Were you ever able to get it working before?

Hello All, I also posted this in the SV forums, but figured it'll get more exposure here :) I unscrewed the bolts on the nameplate and took the Line 6 badge off, however, the plastic it's mounted on won't seem to come off? Is it glued to the tolex? I don't see any other screws on the front-end? Anyone know how to fully remove this place so the amp is just all tolex in the grill, without the plastic under the controls? Thanks.

Yes you can. The tones are available via the Custom Tone portal on the site. Select the MKII and download the patches onto your PC and upload them to the amp via the Edit and Monkey software. There's actually a lot of tones, most are lollipop though. People have no idea how to make a decent tone lol. You'll need the pedal and software to do this successfully. Amp doesn't connect via USB.

Did you find it?

I unscrewed the bolts on the nameplate and took the Line 6 nameplate off, however, the plastic it's mounted on won't seem to come off? Is it glued to the tolex? I don't see any other screws on the front-end? Anyone know how to fully remove this place so the amp is just all tolex in the grill, without the plastic under the controls?

You're now Spider Valve-less? My MKII still has the Celections, but many don't realize that these are China Vintage Celections, not OEM UK make ones. They're still great though.