Topaz

In all my years I never bothered with measurements with setups. Assuming the nut is filed adequately in that there is nothing obviously detrimental (like a really low cut where a strings is gonna buzz out on the first fret no matter how much neck relief there is), I simply give enough relief so open strings are not choked off.... but some fret rattle is ok with me. Then I adjust the bridge for a comfortable string height for me on that particular guitar and that's basically it (besides intonation of course) I like lower action so I don't mind fret buzz as long as a string doesn't flat out splat out somewhere which would generally mean a high fret there. I'll do my own filing/crowning if it's less than a few places. Otherwise I'd get the entire fretboard professionally leveled and polished.....or the guitar is just too expensive, lol

done. replied. :)

Yeah, eventually. :D I had to make several tries with the baking soda/superglue to fill and recut before the open e sounded clean. Actually right now its sounding about as clear as anyone else is going to do it. Should hold up for awhile tho'. I spent the afternoon setting it up to how I like it and actually find it feels good. Once the neck breaks in it should theoretically be an even better improvement. Still haven't done the variax thing yet. In a little while though

I'm sorry but the ones that might do guitars are in Manhattan 50 miles away. No way I'm schlepping back and forth to that traffic pothole hellhole nightmare. There's 2 good luthiers near me who are authorized for other companies, but not yours. 2 suggestions......First, fire James Tyler whoever the hell he is for s#$@ designs and, two, stop using child slave labor and better quality control in whatever overseas sweatshop you grind these instruments out of. Other than that it's a nice $200 guitar for a thousand bucks, lol

Great, no authorized guitar tech/luthier near me, only electronics services. Guess I'm gonna hafta pay for a new nut for a brand new guitar. Way to go Line 6, lol I use 10's on other fenders but the 69 felt like do do with the 10's that were on there and feels way nicer with 9's I nput on. Pickups sound nice thankfully. This guitar could almost use string trees on the b&e

Thanks. The best pic right now would be from sweetwater, lol

What setup besides the usual adjustments needs to be done to this thing? This thing'll need a new nut. I fixed the B string but the high E was cut wrong/low and just spizzed out. I've filled it and trying to recut a new slot that won't spizz... awright... got one that rings ok open string. Still need to get nut replaced considering. High and low E's could be brought in a hair. Still haven't checked the electronics as I've been dikking with this nut, lol

Just arrived. So far I've unboxed it and put it in my hands. Strings feel more stiff for 10's, unless these are 11's. So, if they are 10's I'm going to try 9's and see whats what. Lots of discussion on the neck here on the forum... Don't find the neck/nut width too small or restricting. The neck itself is more like a club but nothing out of the ordinary than some of my other instrument neck that are fat.. Kinda similar to the EVH Wolfgang standard I recently got. Verdict... adapt to it and it should be fine. High E and B nut slots seem to be a tad wide for the strings where I got a 'ping' on the B string when stretching it.... like there's two tiny places for the string to seat into at the bottom of the slot. I'll give them a few passes with nut files So, now to re-string, set it up then plug it all into the HD and hope it doesn't blow up

With non locking trems, as long as the nut slots are not binding any strings, if you grease/lube them up as well as any string trees (I happen to use some stewmac guitar grease) you should be able to go wilder on the bar and still stay pretty much in tune

If you've been buying from sweetwater and have a history with your rep and ask, a price should be able to be negotiated. ;)

Being I bought from Sweetwater I can see how close the E strings are to the fret edge and it all looks ok up and down the neck. As an unscientific comparison, I have a new EVH Wolfgang standard made overseas and my rough measurement at the nut is approx. 41 - 41.5mm and both E's lie about the same place from the fret edges as the 69 I ordered from Sweetwater and my Wolfgang feels and plays perfectly fine to me. Now neck profile may be a different matter but, again, I adapt. :)

I was never a guitar spec guy. Anyways this got me curious and looked up nut widths and a 1.625 seems to round out as a 1-5/8" or 43mm width. I have a couple EBMM guitars with 1-5/8" nut widths and they're fine. My hand spans 8-1/2" which I guess sits around average. Regardless, I never concerned myself about these things... I just adapt to it. :) However I suppose if one's hand are very larger or small then its probably a definite consideration

I'll let ya know when it arrives. :D

Just ordered same one, but its not here yet. It should be fine. I got all different kinds necks, frets, scale lengths and like them all. ;) Don't sweat it. Human biological units are highly adaptable. Just enjoy playing it. :D

I've never been concerned or bothered by neck shapes. If I want a particular guitar I get it and simply adapt to however the neck/fretboard is shaped. Never met a properly set up guitar that could.'t be played. :)

Indubitably! :lol: Thanks info, arislaf

Eh, I just bought me a black 69 w/maple neck. :D

Thanks guys. I'm confused. Thought I've read the 89 has either some 'different' modeling (more shred models) than the 59 or 69, or does it have all the those models plus one or more extra (shred) models? I think my current understanding is that the 59 and 69 have the same models and that the 89 has the same number of models as well but only that some differ in that they changed some of the electric models to be more 'shreddy'? I was looking at the 89 but I recently got an EVH Wolfgang non usa as my sort of 'dive bomber' guitar in my collection, lol. I'm not by nature a dive bomber anyway so my usual vibrato usage is of the usual light wavering kind. However, having some non locking vibrato guitars (eg, strat), keeping the nut slots well greased allows for much more heavy usage and tuning stability. ps... trying to get away from using the name 'tremolo' bar, which by definition is change in volume, and the proper term vibrato. :lol:

Thanks. I'll probably go for it

Thanks. Yeah, you're right about that. :) I've been flipflopping all over the place over the 59 or the 69. I'm now digging the look of the black 69 w/maple neck. However, I don't like the noise of single coils. I replaced all mine with noiseless on my other guitars. However it does have a 5 way selector and replaceable neck if need be, Vibrato is fine as I don't float them. Will a maple neck affect the sound of the models?? hmmmm

Does Line 6 have product cycles for something like this? These JTV's have been around for, what, about 5 years already? Hate to get one now and... well... ya know, lol. I suppose where is the point that newer guts have advanced enough and cost wise to create a new product. <shrug>

Thanks. :)

Thanks... Yes, I meant the modeling tech. I'm this close to buying a JTV59 but I'm hesitant as none of the Variax (non usa) models really do it for me, lol. I have lots of guitars I love already. For me, the only reason for the variax's existence is the modeling bit. So I question the longevity of its modeling circuitry because I don't buy into the whole, 'even if it craps out you can still use it as a normal guitar' thing afaic. ;)

...or is the electronics all the same on all the models currently available? Thanks

rebate, shmebate. make it an instant discount at time of purchase or don't bother jerking peoples chains. :D