lanceu

I don't do FB, can someone explain how a m-vave MS1 and Chocolate Wireless BT controller = midi ctrl of the Cat60 without any other hardware than your android device? Amp connects to the MS1 doggle which pairs to what? Phone controls the Chocolate or both Choc and MS1?

In my opinion, the Cat is most versatile with a multi-modulation pedal in effects loop (for me, the Nux ModCore Deluxe mkI), and a versatile or organic overdrive in front. I have a Nobels ODR1 and a Fulldrive 2 Mosfet in front. Those two cover a lot of ground and leave you to use the native delays and reverbs in the amp.

Thanks. I ended up dumping my modeler and just using the Catalyst as I got more used to programming the Catalyst.

On the issue of the surround falling off, use 3M Auto Trim adhesive tape to secure it back after cleaning the surfaces with alcohol and scraping off any remaining pieces of the plastic lugs that broke off from both the plastic and the surface of the amp. The trim tape has a very thin foam layer which helps it take temperature changes and impact very well, just like car trim. Its very gummy so trim it with razor or x-acto knife not scissors. Its good for all kinds of music related stuff so you'll use the roll again. ;-)

I'm not using any IR's. My modeler turns them off in "effects return" mode. Using the "power amp in" can you utilize any of the native EQ curves in the Cat? I switched amps/channels while using this way and didn't notice any changes in EQ/cab sound. If possible, how would you leverage these EQ curves for each amp type when using as a poweramp?

Interesting, I thought cab emulation might be off with power amp in setting. I'm running a NUX MG-30 modeler with the power amp in on the Cat60 and it sounds really good. Is there just one cab emulation for the Cat60 for all the amp models or is there a way to utilize more than one cab sim with the power amp in feature?

Can anyone explain what DSP changes are made between these two Loop Return settings? Can you utilize the native IRs if you use "effects return" setting? Why does it sound boxy if using your modeler's IRs considering it disables the native IRs when using the power amp in setting? Seems like there is some functionality that's not being used here...

All of my Fender amp sims have a fizzy artifact that is most apparent playing chords, and is present with amp gain and volume low but most noticeable at higher gain. Present whether or not I'm using stock amp sims or IR's through a Mooer Radar in the Fx loop. No issue with AC, Supro, plexi, or other amp sims. Present on all Fender amp sims, even the tweed. I was able to lessen it with the radar's HP/LP filter but its still bugging me. I have zero BT connectivity issues with mine and am otherwise happy with it. Highly recommend a small IR loader in the loop to expand capabilities of the FH. Anyone find a fix for the fizz?

Yes! It makes a slightly aged modeler into a competitor for a lot of newer, more pricey ones in my opinion. I use mine in FX loop with some OEM IR's and some Ownhammer IR's. The OEM ones are pretty good and still allow you to change mics on the fly. The HP/LP filters are really cool, something that isn't avail in the FH.

Title says it all. User in topic below was advised update was coming soon: https://line6.com/support/topic/51639-firehawk-remote-ios-app-crashing-when-changing-variax-models/

So an update is coming? That's news in itself..

Just got mine too and I would revisit the volume controls in that main knob. I'm still trying to master what red/ white/pink do... sounds like one of the levels is off. Also check the range on volume pedal settings. May need to bring the max down to 80% on the patches that are muddy. Something to try.

I was able to do this safely without disassembly. You need some dry lube with an evaporating carrier. I used Hoppe's dry lube with teflon with red spray tube. If you get some bright light directed into the slots in the top panel, you can see the top of the bushings. You want to spray from north to south (pedal orientation) to keep any spray that gets away from you from any electrical components. This carrier dries leaving white lubricating powder and this product has a very weak spray so not much extra propellant floating around. The carrier will help the lube wick in and around the bushing. The white residue that got on the top panel just wiped off. My experience with this product with interior residential door hinges tells me this will be a regular maintenance item but at least you will not have any type of dust attracting oily residue. Looks like Blycker is using a type of silicone that also mostly dries so you could use either with this method with the spray tube. I have two types of silicone spray and one of them doesn't fully dry and has a high pressure spray that goes everywhere so I use that on automotive rubber bushings and weatherstripping. If I were to disassemble the pedal, I would likely go ahead and work some graphite powder into that hinge/bushing as it would last far longer. Graphite is messy but it stays where you put it, just tape off other areas and wear gloves.

I haven't had any BT issues that weren't related to my inadvertently switching apps on my tablet. Still trying to sort out some FH app functions but I'm happy that I gave up my traditional amp setup.. I play more, fiddle with gear less.

Going through these topics as a new owner. Bought a virtually unused one for cheap. Saw the EoL prediction from 2017 and they are still selling new around $400. HD500X is on $100 price drop at GC at $449. Just changed over from an Digitech RP360 that I ran thru a hybrid tube amp, sometimes as a stomp and also through a dry amp channel as a modeler. One thing I found is that you really need to build your own tones from any modeler. That said, the FH has more amp models than I'll likely ever use since I'm a home studio player. I'm still figuring out idiosyncrasies (see the topic I threw out there) but the only thing this lacks considering it price point is 3rd party patches. The cabinet models and mic placement options scratch the "muh IR's" itch just fine. Simply put, get a Kemper or Helix if you record. That's a different itch. For hobby players the FH is great and allows me to sit down after work and do some tone building quickly but mostly it lends itself to quickly get to the playing with no fuss. I'm playing thru an Alto TX210 in floor wedge config.