daveaphotopod

This is why I went with the Pod Express Black. I was initially turned off because it seemed too "metal" based. (I mean not that I don't like that type of music, but not what I was looking for) But when I learned it had the PRS Archon which has HUGE headroom, from what I know/understand, then I was sold.

Basically, it was acting as if the signal was too hot. I had initially thought it was just because of too much bass, but bringing that down did nothing. Apologies for the generic term of "flubbiness" but it wasn't as if there was ONLY too much bass. It was as if the PA speaker was getting overloaded (but I didn't feel as if it was because the volume wasn't overwhelming or anything. I had the volume dialed back on the PA, which leads me to believe it was just the signal going into it). So....my assumption is that the headphones account for volume and may give a false sense of security? And that if you set the dial on the side to be all the way up, and have the gain and preset volume (that's not the name, but I can't think of it right now) pretty high up that when you move over to a PA....ALL of that signal is going into the PA which is "too much" - Is that what is happening here? I used to own the POD GO and never ran into this. But to be fair my dial for volume on the POD GO was always set to noon. I am sure if I kept turning it up, the same would happen. I did notice on the summary page for the POD Express Black it says this: "The headphone output is load dependent and is specified for a load range of 8-1000ohms." First off, load dependent? What does that mean or is in reference to? Also, does that explain why there is a difference? Right now my PA is at the band space so I can't test, but my assumption is that I just need to dial back the intensity on the headphones (maybe to the detriment of it sound quieter in my ears, which isnt a bad thing) to allow it to sound better in the PA. I am wondering if it's just the type of headphones I am using too. (MDR-V6)

Apologies for getting your hopes up, but I don't have a solution, but I also experienced something similar on the POD Express Black. I changed 3 and 4 to delay/reverb and mod and it actually worked fine. But if I choose presets, it bounces up and down. It goes from one to the next and then....a random one?? Did you ever figure this out, or just give up?

For anyone that's confused, as I was, I sorted it out. The BOSS and POD GO are the same (and it appears that POD EXPRESS is too. The reason the inverter is there is because that green adapter which allows the power to "fit" into the line 6 inverts the polarity. The red one inverts it back to negative. All that work because its just the size of the DC port, and how that cable is set up.

Apologies if this has been answered, but I took a peek and didn't see anything. So, here's the thing. I've watched older videos on the CS6 power supply where we have to use the "red" cable (polarity) and the green cable to adapt to line 6. But then I am peeking at the back of the POD GO right now and it's center negative. Unless I am reading that wrong. But then I looked at the Blues Driver I have and that's the same icon!! I have not had issues, and I assume of course that Truetone/1spot knows their stuff, so I must just suck at reading icons. Having said all that, I confused myself. I have a POD Express coming in soon and I don't know how to power it. I did check the manual and it says center negative. Soooooo.....does that mean I don't need the "red" cable?

With the footswitches attached to the POD GO, the default is for the lights to go on and off. I purchased a Hotone Amoero footswitch, and was able to get it working perfectly. BUT...I soon realized at practice that there's no real way to determine if it's on or off. Sure, if it's distortion vs clean....just use your ears. But otherwise, forget it. I did eventually swap over to the view where you can see the pedal chain, but you REALLY have to peek at it to see whats on and off. So, does anyone do this in a live situation? Did you end up replacing (or buying, initially) a pedal that DOES have a light? It's a "catch 22" because this doesnt need power, and I'd rather just use the power supply that comes with the pod go and nothing else. And the reason for the extra 7/8 switches is for a solo boost. But now I am realizing it may not work. Thoughts? What do you do?

Ah good point, I should verify that (which I will do shortly by opening a ticket) Also I just realized that I may have worded that incorrectly. When you brought up the impedance, I was conflating that with a buffer (I know they're not the same, but I know buffers adjust the impedance. Which is probably where I connected the two in my head.) Having said all that, if it is one of the newer units, do I still need to feed my guitar directly into the fuzz? Or can I place it into the fx loop and put that first in the chain? The logic there being that I am not sure if the fuzz going into the POD GO is messing with THAT impedance, therefore messing everything else up down the line. Hope that makes sense. I guess my main question is if I have to plug my guitar cable into the analog fuzz, or the cable is fine going into the POD GO and will sound the same if placed in the FX loop. Also, I did see a video online, linked below regarding the second inquiry I have. The built in fuzzes do sound "good" because on Helix the impedance can be adjusted and the POD GO from what I read has auto impedance, so as long as the fuzz is at the beginning of the chain, that's what the POD GO refers to.

If I have one that I want to use with the POD GO, it makes most sense to put it before the input of the POD GO itself, correct? As opposed to in the FX loop, even if it's at the beginning of the chain? And sort of a related question: Does this mean that the fuzzes in the POD GO never really sound as good as they could? Because there's actually a buffer at the beginning, plugging into the POD GO? (let me know if I am confused about any of this) I suspect that's not an oversight on their part, but then it just confuses me even more. Because if THAT doesn't matter.....then CAN we just add "physical" fuzzes into the FX loop then, without worrying about if a buffer makes them sound "wrong"?

Select input instead of line in....in the amp/cab block? Huh? Am I missing something? I am not having the same issue as the OP but I happened upon this post and now I am confused lol

Ah, interesting. I don't pretend to be a know-it-all, but what a random effect to be dsp intensive.....and a drive, at that! I mean I can think of about 4 drive pedals that have way more options/settings than the Prize Drive, so while I accept that the beta testing proved it to be too intensive, it just seems.....random, to me.

...no new effects? I know that the Helix got the prize drive, but no love for the POD GO? (if I am being honest, for that particular pedal, it's no the "end of the world" and will justify me making the purchase for the physical pedal) - but I bring this up because if memory serves me, we won't get another update in a while, no? To be fair, I didn't go through old posts to see if any of that is true, but as I recall - in the past - the big updates added both new pedals and amps, and there weren't any "supplemental" updates in between. Am I wrong? Has there been any discussion about any new effects?

Well, that's the impendence issue going into the POD GO, which appears to hae been resolved on newer units and was formerly (and maybe currently, in some cases) fixed by putting a pedal in front of the POD GO. But the issue he is showing in that video is that when he adds the fuzz, and even with it turned off but still in the chain, it affects how the amp sounds. It sounds different than with the amp and the fuzz not added. Basically all of this comes down to this: I am concerned that if I add the Arbitrator Fuzz, then turn it off, with my amp sound different than if I had never added the fuzz to the chain at all? In the video, he shows that it sounds duller with it turned off, but still in the chain, on the Helix

So I was watching this older video of Jason, which is actually already outdated because of a firmware update from line 6, but I had what is hopefully a simple question He mentioned that "auto" doesnt work in this case, because if you disable the fuzz, it's not true bypass. He does provide a workaround, and again, line6 addressed this. But is this not an option on the POD GO? (I didn't see it, but I don't have mine turned on right now as I type this) And even if the "auto" setting sets it to 10k so that the fuzz sounds good (as it should, at least), are we screwed as POD GO users if we bypass it and screw up the impedence going to the amp by doing so? I know that this would happen in the real world, but in the real world we can put buffers after the fuzzes haha If I missed something, please let me know!

I was just playing with this effect myself. Do you happen to have a link to that Helix video? I do get a ducking effect, but....only kinda sorta. When I stop playing, it just abruptly disappears. Which I understand is the point of ducking....so that when you stop, the delays duck out of the way. But it doesn't sound great. It sounds as if someone stepped on the delay pedal to turn if off in the middle of it doing its thing. Sorry, I know that wasn't much help, but hey....if nothing else, I am ALSO having issues with that effect.

Normally, I would add them before the amp, even when using actual pedals. But I chose the "strings" one today (I think that was the one. I am not in front of my POD GO right now) and it sounded MUCH better, after the amp. Before the amp, for lack of a better description, it seemed to lack sustain. After the amp, it had sustain and seemed "fuller". Has anyone else experienced this?

I understand (I think) what that's used for and that the Helix has it. If there is a "downside" is there some type of workaround that we have in the POD GO? Or do we have to deal with the results of how vintage fuzses, for example, react based on the fact that it's getting what it gets? Or, furthermore, does the POD go have an "auto" setting that takes care of that?

Thank you. And I would categorize that as anything sub $200, in this case...if anything that cheap exists, anyway But the more and more I look around and watch YouTube videos, the better the POD GO looks. Sure, limited blocks and no parallel paths, but I am not missing that anyway. I never need MORE than 4 blocks, for example.

I know this may be a strange thing to put in a POD GO forum, but to be fair, I am praising the POD GO. So recently, I wanted to "downsize" and get something that has a bunch of amps, and maybe something like the Line 6 HX one. But by then, you're getting into the same price range as a pod go. Ok, fine...maybe I will look at an HX stomp. But....it's more expensive, and you "lose" the expression pedal. I know this is a silly thought experiment, but am I wrong. Is there another fully featured device that doesn't venture into the super budget realm? As I said, once you pick up something like a TC electronic IR loader, or even the new BOSS one, then get effects (like the HX 1), you're back into POD GO territory. Point of this post? Should I just accept the POD go is great and not try to downsize and just enjoy all the amps and effects? haha

Yes, I admit, I worded the title of this post to grab your attention. It's still accurate, however. Let me explain. So, if I connect the POD GO via USB to my computer and choose the audio source in Windows to POD GO, I can listen to YouTube and jam over it, while I am listening to what I am playing in the POD GO too....when I have headphones connected to the POD GO. Cool. Great. So hey, I figure....change the source to my audio interface (RODE AI-1), and connect the headphones to that. Ok, so I play a YouTube video, and it works. Try playing a couple things on the Pod Go.....nothing. Now, I am aware that the POD GO can be an audio interface, but I bring this up because right now the POD GO is on the floor. My AI-1....is not. So am I just out of luck? Can I have the POD GO send any signal through USB to my computer? I almost want to say no, and that it's just for connecting to the POD GO edit....but that's....wrong. I can record something in an audio program if I want. So sound DOES travel through it. What the hell am I missing? haha

"Without cab emulation to PowerCab speaker emulation - Amp-in-the-Room Speaker Modeling Method" Can you explain that? Did you just mean turning the cab off? Sorry for any confusion. I read it three times and not sure what you meant haha My biggest concern (I am not the OP, but I have a similar interest) is that without the cab, it will sound awful, same as when you listen through headphones and turn off the cab.

....so, after all this time, I finally (think I) figured out why any pedal I tested sounded too bass-y. I had it in the loop, fine. No inherent issues there. Then, after reading a helpful reddit post, I realized that me having the master volume on the amps I was using set to 10, and then having the pedal above unity gain, and driving them even more with gain/distortion was just making everything sound WAY too bass-y. Has this been your experience too? Is this a revelation to you too, or am I late to the party? haha I mean, it sort of makes sense. Of course, there are some amps that "break up" when the master volume is turned up, but for WHATEVER reason, it never occurred to me that even (and especially) in real life, with a real amp, I'd never necessarily turn the amp all the way up, and then BLAST it with a pedal too. Curious if there's something else I am missing or if this reminded someone of something related, and they have any more tips. If not, I hope this helps someone!

I also just realized that after looking at the frequency response of my headphones, the MDR-V6, the 2k and above are booted. I wonder if THAT is why everything sounds brighter in the headphones compared to speaker. So unless I am misinterpreting something, the speaker "mostly" is just reproducing the sound, whereas the headphones even though being well-regarded in some online communities, colors the sound, a little.

I assume the headphones would be the most accurate, no? And I know that in theory, it "shouldn't" matter. But I've attached the headphones, taken them off, and tested the same through the speaker, and they sound different. And yes, I've made sure it's not "double-cab'd" (I know the FRFR speaker also has....er....speakers, like the cabs do, but it's full frequency, right? So it should allow everything, I assume.) I mean, I suppose I could disable the cab in the line 6 pod go, but then I lose the cab/speakers. mics, and that sort of defeats the purpose, and I know can't be accurate. Is there some setting I am missing? If this doesn't make sense, or you need anything explained better, let me know. I am pretty persistent when testing things side to side and the PA/speaker is definitely a lot darker.

Or is Shimmer the closest we would have to it? I am thinking about something like the JHS octave reverb.

Thank you! I appreciate it. So I can assume that something like this will work, then? (and yes, I may be about that far. it depends on the setup/venue. Obviously not in all cases.) https://www.guitarcenter.com/Livewire/Advantage-Interconnect-Cable-1-4-TRS-to-1-4-TRS-20-ft-Black-1500000013744.gc