Hey_Joe

Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks for your perspective tooloudtoobad. As only a studio player these days, I guess for a $300 savings I could get off my butt and switch the PC to one of the only six speaker types if I want a change. Seems like a PLUS is the key to take full advantage of all the Helix's capabilities.

Can anyone of you good people share your experience with regretting not buying the PC+ instead of the plain PC? I have read all the specs and definitely know the differences between the 2 model's abilities on paper. But are there any real life anecdotal experiences of regret not buying the PC+. I am using a Headrush108 now but I want to experience the amp in the room feeling. I'm not sure if I can live without the extra speaker sims and L6link/midi, extra speakers and update capabilities of a PC+. With a plain PC I can experience what I get with the Headrush but will also get the amp in the room from speaker sims and that's all I really need. My HelixLT should give me plenty of control of the parameters. I am not using it live or plan to at this point in time. Will I really regret not spending the extra $300 on the plus - (of course no one can really answer that question for ME, I am just looking for advice based on your personal experience if you felt the need to upgrade to the PLUS and why. Or, was it a no brainer and you just knew the PC+ was where it's at from the start)? Thanks in advance, Hey_Joe

Thanks again. I'll just follow all the 2.82 directions and prompts and once I have the software installed on my machine, I'll see what the Updater wants to me to do even though the unit is supposed to ship with current FW from Sweetwater.

This is my first Helix and I don't have any of the software in my computer yet. I have to get my first version of HX Edit into the machine along with drivers for Windows.

Wow...2.82. DI's post wasn't there an hour ago. Line 6 is on top of things as always.

Hey all - Just trying to get my ducks in a row here. I have a Helix LT set to deliver tomorrow from Sweetwater. It will be delivered with the latest firmware (2.8.1) installed by their techs. I do not find the INSTRUCTIONS to focus on an already up to date Helix. I just want to clarify my path to installing the Helix platform onto my PC. Since the current FW is already installed I presume all I need to do is DL HX Edit and follow the prompts. The "UPDATE INSTRUCTIONS" tell me to run the Updater after the Edit package is installed. Just curious if the Updater will skip updating if the platform is current as it will recognize the unit and the PC are up to date. Can I skip the updater and quit the process outlined in the UPDATE INSTRUCTIONS thread, since I am not updating the hardware at this point? Why ask for trouble and re-flash if it's not needed? I do not want to assume anything. Glad to finally advance into the world of the Helix after reading the forum and excessively craving it since it's launch. Been with Line 6 since my XT Live, X3 Live, HD500, Spiders and 300, 600, JTV69, JTV59 Variaxes...so, it's high time to have a Helix. Next step - Powercab Plus. Thanks in advance, Hey_Joe

I would suggest that you check out the VGuitar Forum (all things Roland synth(s) with all kinds of Boss, Line 6, Digitech, etc. gear and how it may relate to Roland synths). Head over there if you are not aware of the site and if new - sign up, introduce yourself and ask some questions from GR aficionados http://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php

This might help... an interview with Ty Tabor with Premier Guitar, it's from Jan 25, 2011. a list of all his gear, plus... http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/Interview_Ty_Tabor_Kings_X?page=1 maybe some help?

I bought a JTV-59 gold top w/ p90s from Sweetwater and the DVI jack was bad (intermittent connection). Sent it back to Sweetwater and their techs fixed it after they got the part from Line6. So, I think their tech department is an authorized service center.

Kind of Frame by Frame(ish) sorry - - a quick OT reply

I just changed my tuners out last week - waited for warranty to wear off. I put some Stew Mac Guitar Grease on the nut - maybe just new strings for my tuning problem. Time will tell if I would withdraw my agreement above about tuning stability. I seem to be drawn to play my 69 more than the 59, so I'll probably find like you that the tuning becomes more stable.

I had bought the Grover 406Cs for my 59 from tips found on another older thread about the same topic. But then I saw stevekc's advice and link to the Sperzel Style Locking tuners 3x3 chrome drop ins in that thread. I like them on my 69 and also didn't care for the fact that the Grovers were mini and didn't have the twist locking cap on the back and preferred to have larger buttons. Installation was a snap and as stated by Rocco "They really won't help to keep my guitar in tune but changing strings is a lot easier." Thumbs up for these IMHO -http://www.guitarfet...ome_p_1172.html. just my 2¢

Yeah, toe down at normal pitch and heel down for the dive-bomb. I found that out because that's the way your patch was made and it is more accurate with the EX-1, just felt for some unknown preference like I wanted to step down to drop the pitch. It will work and maybe I'll get better action out of the pedal buy not having it on carpet and sitting while using it or I could get with the program and finally spring for a Mission pedal. Thanks duncann.

Thanks guys, I'll try this out later today. EDIT: Thanks Alex and duncann. The directions from Alex and the patch from duncann both work the way I was trying to get them to yesterday. I have found that the duncann's tone with normal pitch at heel down gives me a little trouble being in true to pitch all the time but toe down stays true, probably because I'm using a Line 6 EX-1 (have had 2 since my XTL - never wanted to spend the cash on a good pedal like the Mission pedal for Line 6) I think the EX-1 has trouble getting back to pedal heel down because it's a cheapo pedal, 1/2 way good for volume only...because I can't calibrate it and the way it's made allow for discrepancy - I guess the only way around that is to switch to the on board pedal for the whammy - at least it's possible to calibrate. Thanks again you two. I'll mark as answered but you both deserve credit for the correct answer - wish I could split it between the both of you.