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Pod Go and Spider 3 amp, best connection or amp settings?


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Hi, just got a Pod Go which I'm trying to use with a 15 year old Line 6 Spider III, which still rocks!  ;)   My issue is that there's basically no way, as far as I know, to have the Spider Amp just play the Pod Go's output without imparting its own modeled amp sound.  I tried using an adapter to output the sound to the "cd in / mp3" input, but I got no sound!  So I'm using the guitar in of the Spider and the Go's main out, but that means double amps; amp + cab from Go, plus the amp modeling from the Spider...


So I'm left with, I think, trying to find the most neutral amp out of the amp's...   I think putting bass/mid/treble to middle, no effects, and drive to minimum would impart the less color, but even with that, the Spider's amp modeling seems to impart a lot of flavor to the sound...  Would anyone has any tips or recommendations to get the most out of this setup? 


The L6 Spider III has the following, which are likely not too different from later Spiders.


Big thanks in advance!  :)





  • Red LED - Select this Amp Model and adjust the tone controls to get crisp, amazing clean tones, great warm jazz tones, and all the high-end shimmer you'll need with a generous amount of bottom end to boot. Then dial up a little chorus and delay to get the ultimate clean sound!
  • Green LED - We developed this Amp Model to emulate those late 60's and early 70's clean tones. It started off as an Amp Model based on a 1973 Hiwatt custom 100. We extended the tone control range and tightened up the low end. Hit an open A chord and let that big sweet tone ring!
  • Red LED - This Amp Model draws on our analysis of mid 60's Fender amps, including the blackface '65 Twin Reverb and blackface '64 Deluxe Reverb. We wanted an Amp Model that has that classic glassy high end tone, with some snap and bite for some serious chick'n pick'n. Things don't get too crunchy until reaching the top range of the Drive knob.
  • Green LED - This Amp Model is based on a number of vintage tweed amps. We evaluated a '53 Fender tweed Deluxe, '58 Fender tweed Bassman and a '60 Gibson Explorer to create a swingin' Rockabilly tone. Add some reverb and a slap echo and Be-bop-alu-la!
  • Red LED - What would happen if we based a model on three helpings of '65 Marshall JTM-45, one scoop of '58 Fender Bassman, a schmeer of '63 Fender Vibroverb and a dash of Supro for good measure? The biggest, fattest down home Blues amp ever heard. This Amp Model slides between gritty swamp-infected cleans to syrupy smooth, walloping drive tones. It's time to get down and dirty!
  • Green LED - Ready, steady....GO! This Amp Model is based on a fawn Vox AC-30 amplifier with an updated and expanded tone control circuit. We wanted to capture that early British pop rock tone that the Beatles and the Stones are so well known for.
  • Red LED - This sound was crafted during our studies of the '68 Marshall Plexi 50 Watt. This type of Marshall amp was used by a number of early metal bands. Check out albums like British Steel, Number of the Beast and Black Out. Crunch provides a wider range of tone control settings than the original Marshall amp had.  This Amp Model will allow you to bump up the mids even at the highest Drive settings.
  • Green LED - Plexi On Fire! This Amp Model is based on a '68 Marshall Plexi 100 watt with a few added extras; The combination of a Variac and the jumpered input channels creates that infamous brown sound that will feel like flames are shooting out the input jack! "Come on Dave... Give me a break!"
  • Red LED - This Amp Model is based on the Mesa Dual Rectifier. For Spider III, we made careful enhancements to this classic tone. The resulting Amp Model has a definite modern flavor. This monster truck of tone delivers a tight bottom end that's big, powerful, tight and fast. Use this Amp Model to get a tight and punchy, high gain Metal sound.
  • Green LED - This sound was created to be an aggressive high gain Amp Model with a unique Mid control that will sweep though an entire spectrum of tone on one knob. The Mid knob for this Amp Model changes the character of the distortion. When set to minimum, the distortion exhibits Fuzz pedal characteristics. When the Mid is set to noon, it mimics the creamy modern high gain amp tones. And when the Mid knob is turned up to max, it's very much reminiscent of that Class A sound. Of course, then there are all the places in-between...
  • Red LED - This model is our "dialed in for shredding" version of the Mesa Dual Rectifier red channel. It combines the intensity and impact of Metal Red, but delivers more midrange and teeth for that bone- crushing, brain piercing insane grind.
  • Green LED - Our goal with Insane was to provide you with as much input gain distortion as possible short of complete meltdown. You get an obscene helping of distortion, while still retaining tonal definition and character. As a result, you get way more bottom end and cabinet character than other small amps. Crank up the Drive control and prepare to dominate!


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Oh thanks!  I did some tests after your recommendation, and you were right!  For the cable, you don't need stereo, mono works fine, just using a simple adapter for 1/4 to 1/8 works!  But yeah, the way the spider 3 inputs are wired, it appears that the signal of the mp3/cd input is somehow connected with the guitar input, so if there is no guitar cable plugged in guitar in, the circuit is broken, and no sound!  But just plugging in a dummy 1/4 to 1/8 adapter in the guitar jacks fixes things.


So just using a 1/4 cable with a 1/4 -> 1/8 adapter to cd/mp3, BUT it requires either a guitar cable connected in amp guitar in of the amp, or in my case, just a 1/8 -> 1/4 adapter plugged in guitar in. 


My goal was to eventually use normal speakers, as the L6 Spider isn't the greatest, but yeah I think this will work much better than PodGo to amp's guitar in!  Thanks!  :D

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No problem...One option you could do is use the AMP OUT of the GO instead....That can take an output before the CAB/IR block...Since you have what it a guitar amp, you might get a little better result than the MAIN out....Just something to check out.

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Hmm that looks like a no go (no pun intended) because the "amp out" doesn't seem to be controlled by the Pod Go's volume (only main + headphones), and no way to adjust "cd/mp3" volume on amp, so not practical!   


Ah and also, from the manual, in global settings:


3. Amp out source:  ... Choose "pre Cab/IR" if you want the amp out jack to be tapped off directly before the Cab/IR block (and therefore, would not include the Cab/IR or any blocks after it ...)


So you wouldn't be getting any of the sweet reverbs, delays, EQ, etc., placed after the cab/IR, that would defeat the point of the Go in my case!  lol  :D

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  • 2 months later...

So I'm left with, I think, trying to find the most neutral amp out of the amp's...


Just in case this might help someone.  Basically, should have been evident, but the 'best' way to plug in basically any amp without effects loop such as the Spider or whatever, is simply to bypass the POD Go's cab block and plug to guitar in, that way you're using the amp's cab instead of a simulated cab.  Sure, you're losing out on the cab block of the Go, but honestly, just messing a bit with the cabs and the L6 Spider, I'd recommend that.


If you want to use a Go with a Spider, I'd put the drive to 0, the low/mids/treble to noon, no reverb & delay (unless you're planning to use Spider's reverb/delay to save on PGO Blocks), and completely forget that the cab block of the Go exists.  If you want, create a 'base' preset for all the L6 Spider's amp models with 0 drive & all, and that gives your different 'cab' settings.   It would have been nice to have a totally neutral sound out of the Spider, but since you're basically getting 9 cabs with a L6 Spider 3 (forget anything metal/insane, even 0 distortion = too much distortion), you're bound to find one which will sound decent with whatever you're trying to do.


Just playing a bit with the Go's amps + L6 Spider, honestly, it's better than I first thought.  It really does sound quite bad when you add the Go's Cab section + Spider's amp/cab, but bypassing the Go's cab, it's decent.  Probably better than the aux, plus saves you the headache of cab+mic+distance, which given that the Go is already soo complex, is a big plus. 


Then you can migrate to monitors and use the cabs later on, when you're familiar with the Go & want to improve your sound, but short term, probably your best bet.

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  • 1 year later...

I have an old Spider 210 amp that has some amp models built in. What would be the best way to hook up a Pod Go to this? I tried the Clean setting with all the EQ, Drive set to 12 o’clock. Turned off the delay and reverb. Seems to sound ok but wanted to see if these another trick I could use.

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Did you try what was recommended in the comment just above yours?  If so, what were your thoughts?  From what I quickly saw, looks like your amp has no aux/cd in so what is recommended above is very likely your best bet.  No miracle solution I'm afraid!

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