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spaceatl last won the day on October 25 2018

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About spaceatl

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  1. Try reseting global parameters...hold LEFT arrow key on power up...
  2. spaceatl

    Pod HD and EMG

    Not sure which POD you have...If it is the POD HD Desktop, then one challenge you have is that there isn't a pad switch like other HD Pods have. One way you can get the level down in the Desktop is to adjust your input settings so Input 2 is effectively disabled. By default, input 2 set set to Same. The implications of this on a single tone patch is that the chain "can" become saturated more easily depending on the guitar. Using a Vintage Pre only in the chain, it is pretty easy to hear this...The level of saturation goes up quite a bit. This isn't digital clipping as you might read some people infer. This hotter setting for Input 2 being same is actually intended for dual amp patches. However, you might find the hotter chain setting useful for some amplifiers that have lower saturation potential like the Park....It really just depending on what is in the chain and how hot the guitar is to start with. To disable Input 2 for a single tone patch in the desktop, set input 2 to Mic and turn the trim on the back all the way down.
  3. spaceatl

    Pod HD and EMG

    Not that I have noticed, but then I have only used EMG bass pickups with my POD...I don't like active pickups for my own guitar stuff...I have developed my own preamps for conventional passive pups and can give a tiny bit of insight on your questionl. With EMG 85/81s you lose some output level and gain some dynamics by running further away. Running 9v, running far enough away to get the limiting where you like it is a bit more intuitive than running at 18v...EMG pickups are very weak magnets with very few turns. This means, passively the output is very very low. The preamp is where the level comes from and generally, the closer the better...Optimal SN ratio, sustain without the need to worry about the mag field messing up intonation...However, there are no rules, setup your pups how they sound and work best to you...
  4. program a Footswitch to toggle the Amp Model ON and the FX Loop OFF....The inverse is AMP Model OFF, FX Loop ON...Put cursor on the AMP and hold ENTER...set the FS you want to use make sure amp is ON...move the cursor to the FX Loop block....set the FS to be the same as the AMP....insure the FX Loop is off (click ENTER to toggle ON/OFF)....click View to leave the FS screen...confirm the toggle and save the patch.
  5. Did you download the license manager. Basically, there isn't a model pack(s) to download, you just need to unlock the model packs if you don't have access to them...
  6. If you Flash the firmware, you will most likely lose the model packs if you did not buy them or did not get them transferred...no way around that. You don't really need to re-flash the unit to reset it. If you want to reset the patches and one of your setlists is full of blank patches. You can make a blank setlist bundle and apply it to each setlist you want to blank out using Edit. If not, you can make one pretty quickly with edit or on the device itself...You can even download a blank setlist bundle from custom tone. You can download the default patches form there also.
  7. Are you 100% certain that the toe switch is not assigned to the amp? IOW have you selected the amp, held down Enter and insured that the amp has no buttons assigned? I guessing you have checked this as you seems to have covered everything. was just a thought as the toe switch implicitly controls with expression controller is turned on...if somehow that got assigned to the amp, I could see how it might disable unexpectedly. just a thought.
  8. Yes, I have a setlist of morphing patches. I used it as a toggle mostly to two tones on the same amp...morphed drive, tonestack, channel volume, fx settings...basically, scenes...a real pain to tweak. never had the problem of the amp disabling...Have you tried it with Edit disconnected? I only say that because I never tweak with Edit...I only use it as a patch/setlist manager to name them, reorder and backup...
  9. You might want to start with a blank (New Tone) patch and build it up. Nothing will be assigned to the expression unless you added volume pedal or make the assignment yourself. Depending on the patch you are using, it could be that previous owner assigned the channel volume parameter to the pedal. That is an often used approach for a post volume that saves an FX slot. But it's not obvious...you might have to look at each of the Blocks while moving the pedal to figure out what was done on the patch you are tinkering with...
  10. So if this is actually POT JITTER, there are a couple of things to prevent it...One is the AVR as discussed. The other is park all of the programable pots at zero or max during performance. Jitter refers to the voltage variance going thru the pot...enough of a deviation from the stored value and the pot starts changing the value. pots are not the greatest AD converters and the voltage can dance around a little bit depending on the position, wear, dirt etc...couple in house voltage variations with a drive or channel volume sending bad position data periodically, and it can totally feel like a dropout...recalling the patch is the best recourse...parking the knobs generally alleviates it.
  11. If you gig a lot, it's great protection to have...I am only guessing that you might be getting a reset...However, it could be almost anything in your signal chain. This is very common for digital signal processors on iffy venue power...If you plug all of your gear into a transformer based AVR (at least 2:1 rating) you can be sure voltage is stable and you will NEVER have a ground loop. One little phenom of a transformer based AVR is ground isolation. 2:1 rating just means if you have 500 watts worth of gear, use an AVR rated at least 1000 watts...Higher rating is always better.
  12. I use a Tripp Lite AVR (LC1200) to prevent resets. I have seen it happen many many times. An AVR can prevent digital units like the HD from reseting when the voltage drops too low. Simple conditioners don't help with brown conditions. With the advent of class d power amps and LED lighting, this doesn't happen as much as it used too. But there are still some venues around with older gear and crummy power that will reset a POD on every kick drum hit.
  13. Only thing I can think of would be to insure that you have the bios updated and chipset drivers updated...One thing you could look for in the bios is setting for USB...In some BIOS it is possible to change the version of the USB on the bios...if you have more than one root controller, there could be 2 settings. My old Sony is like that as it was a first generation USB3...so I only have one USB3 port...and my HD will crash after about an hour on that port...rock solid on the USB2 port...also Windows 10 64....Although I have had that exact issue since it had Windows 8...long time...However, I do not have connectivity issues...Only that USB3 port with HD will cause BSOD in about an hour.
  14. I am not sure where I have seen Line 6 touting that the link will only work with their cables. It can work with a standard mic cable, but that is only for fairly short distances. They tell you what kind of cable to get. Line 6 providing a proper cable is a convenience IMO, and one usually pays a premium for that. AES/EBU, L6 Link L6 LINK provides easy digital audio connectivity between Helix and Line 6 StageSource monitors and/or DT-Series amplifiers. Alternatively, digitally connect Helix to your studio equipment via an AES/EBU (110-ohm XLR) cable.
  15. Yes sir, I am SHURE. There is no isolation there. Becomes obvious running a dual tone patch to drive a conventional amp (one 1/4 out) and a house direct tone (one XLR out)...A dummy plug will be needed to keep the sum from happening even though only one 1/4 out is needed...If one uses a direct box instead, one would never notice this.
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