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Everything posted by spaceatl

  1. Have you checked your BIOS to see if the USB port is configurable? Might have a legacy mode switch or something...
  2. That is a very satisfying moment and congrats to you for chipping away at it until you found what you needed to do to get the flat strip! I have been doing that since HD when it was finally good enough imo for me to make the jump from amps to FRFR and I have never looked back. So cool to read posts like this! Nice one!
  3. I usually see this on Windows machines where the sample rate isn't matched up or the machine is simply too weak to render vid and audio...Hard to say with such sparse details...just guessing.
  4. The one thing that sticks out at me as sorta odd is the gtr inputs....If my acoustic has a preamp, I think I would use the aux in there and electric on the gtr input....Mainly for the inputZ...
  5. I have been using Sony for decades. I do a lot of live engineering and cut my teeth on v600s and then v900s...I have CDR3000s for serious stuff...I currently use 7506 and they are basically the same as v900s...All cans have a bit of color to them and it takes a bit to get under how any set of cans translate...Seems like you researched and have some good ideas about what you prefer...In terms of impedance, I don't really like high impedance as I tend to use a lot of different gear and not all headphone amplifiers are created equal...60-80 seems like a sweet spot where the lower impedance does a bit better with amplifiers that simply can drive them properly...Situation is everything...best of luck!
  6. When all else fails, read the instructions ;-)
  7. If you have a windows computer, you will need to install the audio driver (ASIO). If you did that, then you need to hook your headphones and speakers to the GO....It becomes your audio interface, so whatever was on your computer is not used.
  8. I use a Source Audio EQ2 first in the chain to calibrate by guitars for the HX input. My main problem is my old Steinbergers (and active EMG generally). The pad on the HX is a bit too much and pad out is a bit too hot...I needed something adjustable so I can get right below the safety limiter on the codec converter. It is midi controllable with 128 presets. It is also dual. I use the second eq to sculpt for the C4 Synth or Synths on the HX. Just not enough horsepower in the HX for what I needed.
  9. yea, that's the way I have configured 4CM on the GO and it can sound fantastic. I used a wedge with an amp so I can monitor the main out a bit. I will generally run it a bit wetter. use the volume to get the mix right. I drive my own wedge from the headphone out. House gets the mains. Noon is a nice low SN line voltage and it makes it easy to adjust. Currently, I only 4cm academically for beta testing or for some rare recording project. I bring my own wedge and supplement whatever is there. The benefit is just not worth it to me to carry my own amp. I will use amps if they are provided and just hit the power amp input. I do like using an amp for FX separation but prefer a simple setup currently.
  10. When I had a GO, I thought very seriously about doing something like that. But I was looking at Source Audio stuff to integrate with the GO...I would say just put the stomp in the GO loop...You would need one insert cable and two short 1/4 cables...Since they are so short, balancing isn't needed. I would guess the loop block would go whereever your amp block is usually in the GO chain...so the stomp is the amp chain... The main reason that I moved from the GO to the Stomp XL is that I wanted the same control layout like the GO, but with midi...I thought seriously about getting an embedded USB host to get midi going in the GO, but ultimately that would have been a real pain to pull off and maintain. I am not into double tapping on a preset change...But if you really like the GO, I think that could work pretty decently. If you want it seamless and just about anyway you want it, LT or full helix is the way to go I think.
  11. You have to right click and select open on packages that do that. Quite a few things like this out there right now for the M1.
  12. BOSS is same polarity...I have a 2A BOSS supply and it powered my GO...It's supply for a BCB60, so the plug fits...you would just need a splitter...Or you can buy some pigtails and make one...I did that...I have since switched to the HX Stomp XL...supply requirements are pretty much the same. I bought a 6A medical grade psu for $18 and a couple of pigtails. My GO was actually in this same old case...my primary reason to switch was integrating SA pedals with midi...had the go had midi with the need for an embedded host, I probably would still be using it...The GO is my favorite board layout Line 6 has done to date...
  13. Understood. Too much EE in my life I guess...just my perspective, nothing more... When the analog output is initially created by the codec converter, that signal is an unbalanced signal. In order to balance that signal for transmission over long cable runs (analog snakes, etc...) the source signal is converted to a balanced signal for line transmission. This could be a quasi approach where it is just inverted or an isolated approach where a transformer is used. On the other side of the balanced run where it might go into a console or amplifier, the balanced signals are converted back to unbalanced before actually being amplified...Each step affects the response....It will not be exactly the same. It's generally slightly detrimental as it will reduce the bandwidth response...But it's generally not anything most would notice...Even audiophiles... When you get down to 5-10' runs, an unbalanced signal will actually be a bit stronger and have less distortion than the balanced conversion does. That is the only point I was trying to make, albeit, a bit poorly. Look at the runs and balance or unbalance based on the situation and what is available...
  14. I would suggest you just use the main 1/4 outs with high quality instrument cables...If you use an adapter, you are converting the analog output signal twice...A Balanced signal does NOT always mean better because that is a converted signal...All initial analog signals are unbalanced. Balancing a signal ALWAYS changes the bandwidth response slightly. So that is the rationale....Are you using the 1/4 outs for something else? I also use Alto TS212s. I have never run balanced to the Altos...They are like 3-5 feet alway...balancing that short is total overkill and converting a balanced signal back to balanced is generally something we stay away from unless it is the only option...just my 2 cents.
  15. In terms of a Windows standard behavior, I think you are right. Cut should clear the source patch. Copy should leave it in tact. I have been a windows developer since the 90s and that's pretty standard stuff and not difficult to do at all in any language. It's a nice workflow nuance as everyone works differently. You will have to put in a feature request over on that board where features are managed with the community if you want to try to get it in front of Line 6...I think it's pinned at the top here.
  16. Look for a command line util called setVol....You could use that to set a run key...
  17. It depends on the amp....Class A typically will not have a master volume, so gotta do it on the pedal..If the amp can do it, I fix the output of the pedal...More typically I use an FRFR monitor...AMP OUT is fixed level for a DI and Main out(s) drive my monitor(s)...just depends on the situation.
  18. I have a 12 year old VAIO I use for the HX most of the time. Turning off power management did the trick for me. Another way to approach this is to create a DAW hardware profile. You can actually do quite a bit to optimize your Windows computer for DAW use. Often, power management on the USB controller can cause problems when the device is in streaming mode. The meaning is the driver is not likely complying with power management rules and not shutting down clean...Outside of tweaking the power profile, you can shut down services that are not needed (anti-virus, NIC, swap file settings, etc...). It's a bit of a pain rebooting into a DAW profile, but I find it makes for stable sessions on windows on a multi-use machine...Line 6 isn't the only vendor with problems in their power management implementation....
  19. I don't like programing midi that much. I have been doing it since the 1980s, so it's not a big deal, but it can be a lot of grunt work on some stuff....I really like Source Audio pedals for this...the neural hub makes setting those things up quite a bit easier than traditional stuff...
  20. I used it exclusively for nearly a year...Mostly songwriting, rehearsals and a handful shows (2020, so not so much)...It was great...If you are able to scale tones down and understand how that works as I am sure you do, it should be fine...In the end, I could not get around how the blocks are restricted...So I opted for the HX XL....basically, it's a stomp with the same control layout as the GO...only thing you might need is an expression pedal. My patches spilled out into a pedalboard, but it really isn't a problem to use the XL on it's own...more scenes, paralell paths and more flexible block choices is where I landed...
  21. The small screen quite annoying if you move directly from a year on the GO to the XL....but I got used it....If you never had it, may not such a big deal. As soon as I heard just the stark improvement of the codec converters I was convinced I had made the right choice IN THE XL...The GO is a great piece of gear...It just wasn't quite there for my more specific needs....I had zero issues using it, I just had to compromise a little bit and no one was the wiser to that other than me...either will do the job at a pro level fine...Only you will know which one is right for you...
  22. I used the GO for a year during the pandemic for songwriting and a few gigs...Ultimately, there is not enough freedom in the chain for me in the GO and I went to the Stomp XL...basically, it's the HXFX with all the amps and the same control layout as the GO....But you also get dual chains....GO does not do that....I suggest the XL Stomp over the HXFX...If you need an expression pedal, then add it....the limitations are not worth the pedal being built-in IMO.
  23. multitap transformer....Tripp Lites are about +-5% or so as there are just three...Nominal, Hi and Lo...Furman AR15 is a bit more precise and uses a toroidal transformer with more taps (6 iirc)...So they stay within about +-1 v....Isolation is the same with any transformer....You can still have loops within your rig, but once your rig is isolated, that's just a shield lift here and there and you are done....Very easy to run those down when the rig is isolated...A whole lot harder when refrigerators and other motors in the house circuit are not isolated away from the audio gear from and input power perspective. Basically, the clicks in the Tripp Lite stuff are a bit louder than the Furman....Furmans are great, but you will pay a lot for one of those...I used to tour with an AR15, but since I don't tour anymore and I am paying for it now, I use Tripp Lite...Much more cost effective for me...
  24. Modern UPS is not generally transformer based. No isolation unless on the battery and disconnected from house power completely...Would need to know the brand and model to know that.
  25. Start with isolating your power. I used a Tripp Lite LCR2400 for my main rig and an LC1200 for my home studio....I don't have ground loops and I don't have those money pit hum elminators...A conditioner is not enough...You have to have a transformer on your power to eliminate ground loops...Easiest way to do that is to get an Automative Voltage Regulator. You get stable voltage, conditioning and isolation....Usually it's as simple as putting the computer on the house power and all of your audio gear on the transformer. Anyhoo, that's how pros do it....Good luck.
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