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spaceatl

Line 6 Expert
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Everything posted by spaceatl

  1. Metallurgy and the other two "lighter" plugs are pretty nice for larger projects where resources become challenging. Helix is a bit fat, takes a while to load. Tweaking is also really fast on those compared to helix for me. So I do find those useful from time to time...
  2. headphone out is line voltage....close enough...if you are getting phasey stuff like it sounds like you are describing, your adapter is suspect...or cables or dirty inputs....no idea, just a guess....but that should work just fine...
  3. there's so value in it imo....and would be a mess on windows if you tried to stream at the same time. It would introduce massive instability on Windows...trivial on a Mac tho...but how can one make money on adding a tuner to a computer application where there are plenty of other places in the workflow?
  4. check your guitar on an empty patch...if there is no distortion, then you are likely hearing modeled signal overload...usually this is when you have a particular effect in a part of the chain that is running hot (ie: after amp block)...tape echo can get pretty nasty in a post amp position and it gets hit too hard...You might can locate the culprit by removing one block at a time until it goes away...if you need it, then you will have to lower the incoming level to the block. if it's something like the amp block feeding a tape echo, you might need to lower the channel volume a good bit, put a volume block on the other side to make up the level you want....basically, the level of each effect is modeled and you get modeled overload...sometimes it's pretty nasty...anyway, just a thought...good luck
  5. not worth it with a jc imo...just power amp in an use a rivet pre for a jc...done it with 120s many times. jc is one of the better amps for a modeler imo.
  6. Basically you need 2 loop capability. You get that with an HX FX, LT, Helix or Rack.....or 2 stomps...
  7. You could put your time-based FX between the amp and cab...time-based still gets attenuated by the cab, but you get post amp behavior that is typically preferable for time-based...
  8. I use the stereo return block. I have a C4 Synth chain that I bring in at the end of my chain. You can have separate send and rtn blocks...but I don't think you could have 2 discrete send blocks...
  9. Titles all missing but tones there. My XL came like that also. Hold C + D on power up and that should bring them back. Factory forgot to do it is what I think that is.
  10. i think control throws it into $300 range for a torpedo etc...I have thought on this and I think I would add an HX stomp dedicated to IRs. the extra 4 blocks yield tuning options and paths. just a thought. my use is a bit more bass oriented, but i use an instrument ir and a cab ir generally and it's a bit intensive on the dsp...don't need it but for a several patches it would be very handy.
  11. Like a said, a guess...Have no idea what you mean by static...anyway, best of luck to you.
  12. A short clip would be helpful...just guessing, maybe it's modelled clipping from a stomp in the chain getting overloaded...I have heard it described as static by some people...anyhoo, good luck.
  13. The long rectangle dates back to the HD stuff and when the first HXFX came out....Pretty sure that supply is no longer available...The only suggestion I have is what I do to my own boards. I needed 5A, so I bought a 6A medical grade supply for $18...done and done...You might find some NOS on ebay...good luck on that.
  14. I know of a Midas M32 that has a screen that suddenly went upside down and mirrored...odd one...
  15. I have seen Line 6 gear and about every other digital brand experience drop outs on generator gigs & iify venues where the performer chose not to use an AVR on their input power..power drops below 90 volts you can get resets...If I had a dollar everytime I saw this with a support act and let them plug into my avr, I would have a new American P bass...Another thing an AVR does is isolates your power in the same way a DI isolates your signal...transformers always break ground loops since they don't pass thru a tranny. If you are not using a direct box, I suggest considering it....Line 6 quasi-balanced...this situation reads like iffy power and poor power & signal isolation, but then I don't really have enough information to make an informed guess on this. Best of luck to you.
  16. Have you checked your BIOS to see if the USB port is configurable? Might have a legacy mode switch or something...
  17. That is a very satisfying moment and congrats to you for chipping away at it until you found what you needed to do to get the flat strip! I have been doing that since HD when it was finally good enough imo for me to make the jump from amps to FRFR and I have never looked back. So cool to read posts like this! Nice one!
  18. I usually see this on Windows machines where the sample rate isn't matched up or the machine is simply too weak to render vid and audio...Hard to say with such sparse details...just guessing.
  19. The one thing that sticks out at me as sorta odd is the gtr inputs....If my acoustic has a preamp, I think I would use the aux in there and electric on the gtr input....Mainly for the inputZ...
  20. I have been using Sony for decades. I do a lot of live engineering and cut my teeth on v600s and then v900s...I have CDR3000s for serious stuff...I currently use 7506 and they are basically the same as v900s...All cans have a bit of color to them and it takes a bit to get under how any set of cans translate...Seems like you researched and have some good ideas about what you prefer...In terms of impedance, I don't really like high impedance as I tend to use a lot of different gear and not all headphone amplifiers are created equal...60-80 seems like a sweet spot where the lower impedance does a bit better with amplifiers that simply can drive them properly...Situation is everything...best of luck!
  21. When all else fails, read the instructions ;-)
  22. If you have a windows computer, you will need to install the audio driver (ASIO). If you did that, then you need to hook your headphones and speakers to the GO....It becomes your audio interface, so whatever was on your computer is not used.
  23. I use a Source Audio EQ2 first in the chain to calibrate by guitars for the HX input. My main problem is my old Steinbergers (and active EMG generally). The pad on the HX is a bit too much and pad out is a bit too hot...I needed something adjustable so I can get right below the safety limiter on the codec converter. It is midi controllable with 128 presets. It is also dual. I use the second eq to sculpt for the C4 Synth or Synths on the HX. Just not enough horsepower in the HX for what I needed.
  24. yea, that's the way I have configured 4CM on the GO and it can sound fantastic. I used a wedge with an amp so I can monitor the main out a bit. I will generally run it a bit wetter. use the volume to get the mix right. I drive my own wedge from the headphone out. House gets the mains. Noon is a nice low SN line voltage and it makes it easy to adjust. Currently, I only 4cm academically for beta testing or for some rare recording project. I bring my own wedge and supplement whatever is there. The benefit is just not worth it to me to carry my own amp. I will use amps if they are provided and just hit the power amp input. I do like using an amp for FX separation but prefer a simple setup currently.
  25. When I had a GO, I thought very seriously about doing something like that. But I was looking at Source Audio stuff to integrate with the GO...I would say just put the stomp in the GO loop...You would need one insert cable and two short 1/4 cables...Since they are so short, balancing isn't needed. I would guess the loop block would go whereever your amp block is usually in the GO chain...so the stomp is the amp chain... The main reason that I moved from the GO to the Stomp XL is that I wanted the same control layout like the GO, but with midi...I thought seriously about getting an embedded USB host to get midi going in the GO, but ultimately that would have been a real pain to pull off and maintain. I am not into double tapping on a preset change...But if you really like the GO, I think that could work pretty decently. If you want it seamless and just about anyway you want it, LT or full helix is the way to go I think.
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