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Line 6 Expert
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Everything posted by spaceatl

  1. You have to right click and select open on packages that do that. Quite a few things like this out there right now for the M1.
  2. BOSS is same polarity...I have a 2A BOSS supply and it powered my GO...It's supply for a BCB60, so the plug would just need a splitter...Or you can buy some pigtails and make one...I did that...I have since switched to the HX Stomp requirements are pretty much the same. I bought a 6A medical grade psu for $18 and a couple of pigtails. My GO was actually in this same old primary reason to switch was integrating SA pedals with midi...had the go had midi with the need for an embedded host, I probably would still be using it...The GO is my favorite board layout Line 6 has done to date...
  3. Understood. Too much EE in my life I guess...just my perspective, nothing more... When the analog output is initially created by the codec converter, that signal is an unbalanced signal. In order to balance that signal for transmission over long cable runs (analog snakes, etc...) the source signal is converted to a balanced signal for line transmission. This could be a quasi approach where it is just inverted or an isolated approach where a transformer is used. On the other side of the balanced run where it might go into a console or amplifier, the balanced signals are converted back to unbalanced before actually being amplified...Each step affects the response....It will not be exactly the same. It's generally slightly detrimental as it will reduce the bandwidth response...But it's generally not anything most would notice...Even audiophiles... When you get down to 5-10' runs, an unbalanced signal will actually be a bit stronger and have less distortion than the balanced conversion does. That is the only point I was trying to make, albeit, a bit poorly. Look at the runs and balance or unbalance based on the situation and what is available...
  4. I would suggest you just use the main 1/4 outs with high quality instrument cables...If you use an adapter, you are converting the analog output signal twice...A Balanced signal does NOT always mean better because that is a converted signal...All initial analog signals are unbalanced. Balancing a signal ALWAYS changes the bandwidth response slightly. So that is the rationale....Are you using the 1/4 outs for something else? I also use Alto TS212s. I have never run balanced to the Altos...They are like 3-5 feet alway...balancing that short is total overkill and converting a balanced signal back to balanced is generally something we stay away from unless it is the only option...just my 2 cents.
  5. In terms of a Windows standard behavior, I think you are right. Cut should clear the source patch. Copy should leave it in tact. I have been a windows developer since the 90s and that's pretty standard stuff and not difficult to do at all in any language. It's a nice workflow nuance as everyone works differently. You will have to put in a feature request over on that board where features are managed with the community if you want to try to get it in front of Line 6...I think it's pinned at the top here.
  6. Look for a command line util called setVol....You could use that to set a run key...
  7. It depends on the amp....Class A typically will not have a master volume, so gotta do it on the pedal..If the amp can do it, I fix the output of the pedal...More typically I use an FRFR monitor...AMP OUT is fixed level for a DI and Main out(s) drive my monitor(s)...just depends on the situation.
  8. I have a 12 year old VAIO I use for the HX most of the time. Turning off power management did the trick for me. Another way to approach this is to create a DAW hardware profile. You can actually do quite a bit to optimize your Windows computer for DAW use. Often, power management on the USB controller can cause problems when the device is in streaming mode. The meaning is the driver is not likely complying with power management rules and not shutting down clean...Outside of tweaking the power profile, you can shut down services that are not needed (anti-virus, NIC, swap file settings, etc...). It's a bit of a pain rebooting into a DAW profile, but I find it makes for stable sessions on windows on a multi-use machine...Line 6 isn't the only vendor with problems in their power management implementation....
  9. I don't like programing midi that much. I have been doing it since the 1980s, so it's not a big deal, but it can be a lot of grunt work on some stuff....I really like Source Audio pedals for this...the neural hub makes setting those things up quite a bit easier than traditional stuff...
  10. I used it exclusively for nearly a year...Mostly songwriting, rehearsals and a handful shows (2020, so not so much)...It was great...If you are able to scale tones down and understand how that works as I am sure you do, it should be fine...In the end, I could not get around how the blocks are restricted...So I opted for the HX XL....basically, it's a stomp with the same control layout as the GO...only thing you might need is an expression pedal. My patches spilled out into a pedalboard, but it really isn't a problem to use the XL on it's own...more scenes, paralell paths and more flexible block choices is where I landed...
  11. The small screen quite annoying if you move directly from a year on the GO to the XL....but I got used it....If you never had it, may not such a big deal. As soon as I heard just the stark improvement of the codec converters I was convinced I had made the right choice IN THE XL...The GO is a great piece of gear...It just wasn't quite there for my more specific needs....I had zero issues using it, I just had to compromise a little bit and no one was the wiser to that other than me...either will do the job at a pro level fine...Only you will know which one is right for you...
  12. I used the GO for a year during the pandemic for songwriting and a few gigs...Ultimately, there is not enough freedom in the chain for me in the GO and I went to the Stomp XL...basically, it's the HXFX with all the amps and the same control layout as the GO....But you also get dual chains....GO does not do that....I suggest the XL Stomp over the HXFX...If you need an expression pedal, then add it....the limitations are not worth the pedal being built-in IMO.
  13. multitap transformer....Tripp Lites are about +-5% or so as there are just three...Nominal, Hi and Lo...Furman AR15 is a bit more precise and uses a toroidal transformer with more taps (6 iirc)...So they stay within about +-1 v....Isolation is the same with any transformer....You can still have loops within your rig, but once your rig is isolated, that's just a shield lift here and there and you are done....Very easy to run those down when the rig is isolated...A whole lot harder when refrigerators and other motors in the house circuit are not isolated away from the audio gear from and input power perspective. Basically, the clicks in the Tripp Lite stuff are a bit louder than the Furman....Furmans are great, but you will pay a lot for one of those...I used to tour with an AR15, but since I don't tour anymore and I am paying for it now, I use Tripp Lite...Much more cost effective for me...
  14. Modern UPS is not generally transformer based. No isolation unless on the battery and disconnected from house power completely...Would need to know the brand and model to know that.
  15. Start with isolating your power. I used a Tripp Lite LCR2400 for my main rig and an LC1200 for my home studio....I don't have ground loops and I don't have those money pit hum elminators...A conditioner is not enough...You have to have a transformer on your power to eliminate ground loops...Easiest way to do that is to get an Automative Voltage Regulator. You get stable voltage, conditioning and isolation....Usually it's as simple as putting the computer on the house power and all of your audio gear on the transformer. Anyhoo, that's how pros do it....Good luck.
  16. Make sure your motherboard BIOS & firmware is up to date. Also check for chipset drivers. One thing to also check is that you are not using something like front ports that come off a header...Thats generally a built-in hub. Line 6 drivers historically have not played well with hubs...Homerun to port on the back is usually the best bet...That seems like a fairly new system...Not sure if you checked Asus for that low level stuff directly...Windows update lags behind on that stuff.
  17. Try the Park...That's my favorite Marshall...not as much gain potential as more modern variants, but i think that is why I like it...It cleans up better, but still retains enough Marshall vibe for me...Not nearly as sharp as Marshalls are more typically...If you are a high gain player, you may not like it that much...If you tend to use pedals for gain, you may....good luck.
  18. I gotten that sorta thing with old projects in Sonar and Reaper with ASIO drivers (EMU mostly for me 10 years back). Basically, it seems like a driver update I did at some point changed the ASIO reference and the old project just points to nothing (has same name, just not there). You would likely have to rollback the driver, edit, usb fw also to the version it was at 3.11...That was usually what happened to me. I would forget something and the session would not match. I am not that concerned with exact recreation now, but if you are I think you have to move all facets of Helix back to the versions that correspond to fw 3.11...At that point, I would think the session should be exact and should open. just a thought.
  19. You could accomplish that with a BOSS LS-2 or just about anything with a buffer or even a 10k pot in the loop...Attenuation is not an improper term, but usually with tube amps the meaning is using resistors or motors to bleed off output power which in turn attenuates the output power lower with the color of the amplifier running at a high level. If your amp has a sensitive master that ramps up fast, a buffer in the loop is nice way to loosen in up. So what you found is not really unique but can be very useful and can be accomplished a variety of ways.
  20. The bigger issue with HD and macs is M1...If you are Intel, you should be fine. If it works, you have to have an Intel....HD doesn't work with M1 silicon.
  21. I seriously considered the Xvive when I went Iem last year. In the end, mainly because I play bass, I went with the Shure PSM 300 SE215-CL...Low end of the phones that come with it are decent for bass and most of the folks I work with are using Shure already. It makes it really nice to only have to bring my receiver sometimes. Just made the most sense for me given what most of the folks around me are using. The SE215 phones are good enough giving me time to save for nice phones. Anyway, that's my path at the moment....good luck.
  22. No, it does not work right now. It looks like it may eventually as it is not listed as not happening...just not implemented yet.
  23. My father is also EE that paid his way thru school fixing TVs, tube amps, speakers etc in the 1960s. I know enough to be extremely dangerous...You likely do as well, lol! He taught me this power isolation stuff decades ago when I was starting to tour. Your dad will know how to guide you...all the best!
  24. Exactly. When you move around from studio to studio, you usually will not have too many problems because they generally take some care with the power there and have isolation installed. You will have no problems when you isolate and run down what your real signal ground loops are in your rig...And those are very easy to remedy and find when your rig is isolated from house power. Building a robust rig impervious to ground loops is a fairly simple systematic process that is very well understood by engineers, not generally by musicians... When you move from venue to venue for live work, all bets are off....especially on generator gigs...It amazes me every time I see someone just plug their gear into a socket without even checking the voltage. Back when I was touring heavily, I found outlets in the US wired for 240 volts. I have seen gear blown apart by mistakes like that. I learned pretty quickly that if I wanted to protect my tools, I need to insure that my power was stable. If you have ever measured grid power, you would be amazed at how much it varies thru the day....there are surges and drops all the time...My home regulator clicks at least 5-10 times per day...
  25. You have a power problem...My suggestion is always to start by isolating power...That's how the big boys do it. I use a tripp lite LC1200 for my audio...Yes, it is a regulator...But it is also a transformer...That provides the isolation...Ground loops are not possible thru a transformer...So in the same way you protect your audio signal by using transformer based direct boxes, it is a good idea to go the rest of the course and isolate your power....the regulator will save your gear too. Power Conditioners and Automatic Voltage Regulators are not the same at all...However, an AVR will often have Power Conditioning...but most people don't care to protect their gear properly.
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