Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About voxman55

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar, music, Football, F1, TV, Films, science fiction, puzzles, cryptic crosswords, word games, Sudoku, swimming, eating out, cinema.
  • Registered Products
  1. I have a padded DELL laptop bag which is perfect to carry and protect it, with loads of room in the compartments and pockets for Pod Go & PSU, guitar leads, bottle necks, capods, spare strings, and even my Line 6 G10 Relay.
  2. Thanks @benthere77 - having done some research, it appears the HR FRFR 112 is exactly the same speaker as the Alto Truesonic TS312 which sells for around £230 rather than £270 for the Headrush version. And the TS308 (£199) is identical to the HR FRFR108 (circa £215). But the 1x12 is a lot bigger & heavier & I like the greater compactness of the HR FRFR 108/AT TS308.
  3. Generally, if you want a quick fix so to speak, I've found that you can significantly improve a lot of the factory presets simply by moving the EQ to the end of the fx chain.
  4. Once (hopefully) I can get back to gigging I was thinking of buying a powered speaker and the HR108 looks a strong contender both as backline or, where I can go into the PA, as a monitor. Out of interest, is the HR108 loud and clear enough for gigging as a backline with a heavy handed drummer?
  5. In the words of the immortal Homer Simpson...'dohh!'. Lol Glad you found the problem and are enjoying your Pod Go with your HR108.
  6. Thanks - these are something like £550-600 new so it was a darned good price. It's just a good 'workhorse' guitar with a nice range of tones that's typically an everyday guitar at home. But I rotate them so the last few days I've been playing my 2009 Daphne blue USA Strat.
  7. With headphones you're hearing Pod Go over both ears and (as most effects in Pod Go are stereo only) your tone may sound bigger & fuller accordingly. With a single FRFR you're getting a different 'mono' in the room sound. Does using the contour switch make any difference and are you angling the HR108 at an angle to project sound up to your ears rather than laying it flat when you'll lose some sound/tone into the floor? Also, have you set your Pod Go main out, in global settings, to 'Line' (see p32 of the manual, but I've shown below for you)? Re your amp, were you running Pod Go into the FX loop return, or straight into the front end of your tube amp? For a guitar amp your main out in global settings should be set to 'instrument' if you're going through the front end of your amp and you should connect Pod Go from its 'Amp Out' output. However, these are options and you should experiment with the ins/outs and settings to see what sounds best to your ears. I'd also recommend you angle your amp and/or raise it a bit off the floor. I heard a demo of the HR108 with a smaller Headrush gig unit and it came across as very dark & lifeless to my ears, but then the guy was playing horrible metal tones. Make sure you've set your Pod Go so your cab emulations are activated to your powered speaker - see 'Global ins/outs' below. The most important tip I can give you with Pod Go is about the EQ. Changing the type & position of the Pod Go EQ block could make a world of difference - I tend to put it at the end of the signal chain and set its output db level to around 2db to better impact on tone. I like the Cali Q EQ and parametric EQ but I'm still experimenting here myself. Learning about EQ, its settings and where you like your EQ in the chain can make a MASSIVE difference to what you hear, so experiment - and you might decide you like one set up for headphones, but another for your HR108. You can set-up and save different user patches for each purpose (or to suit different guitars) if you want to. In my opinion, even with a regular amp/stomp box set up, an external EQ can be essential and the magic ingredient to shape your tone in ways that your amps on board EQ can't. Used in front of your amp, it will act more like a gain boost, adding distortion as you up the level; through the FX loop (or after the amp/cab in Pod Go) it acts as a clean boost. And remember that whilst the above relates to EQ in your Pod Go FX blocks, your Pod Go also has a GLOBAL EQ. (see p31 of the manual, but see below) - this doesn't operate if you are using the AMP OUT on your Pod Go - hence why I said above that regardless of what the Line 6 guidance might be, it's all about experimenting to see which outs/settings work best for you with your amp and/or powered speaker. It may take you a while to experiment, inc different types and chain position of EQ, but it could make a huge difference to what you hear from your amp/powered speaker. Remember when I said Pod Go isn't plug and play and there's a fair bit to learn? Learning about your ins/outs, global and block EQ is a prime example! Pod Go Edit: Re tweaking with EQ/FX/amps/cabs - this is much easier and more visual on Pod Go edit. With EQ for example you can slide each frequency parameter to min/max settings to hear/learn what they do - and Pod Go Edit lets you easily undo changes ...and you can use snapshots to experiment with different tones and easily switch between snapshots to hear the differences your tweaks are making. Eg You set your basic tone but then switch to snapshot 2 as your tweak comparison version, and tweak - then switch back & forth. And moving fx chain order is so much faster & easier - you just click and drag it. And ditto selecting alternatives - you physically see little icons and you just click what you want. (Tip: if you like a spring reverb, it's best placed between the amp and cab). If all of this sounds a bit daunting, trust me, once you've sussed out a few basics Pod Go is a dream to use and you'll be flying in no time - & Pod Go Edit will help you to learn even faster. It's kind of like when you buy a new car you need to read the manual and play around with stuff first so you know what all the new buttons and gizmos do that you never had in your old car, and when you drive, it will take you a little while to get the feel and get the best out of it because ride, handling, acceleration, brakes, turning circle, gears are all different etc. Although I've used modelling gear for years, there's a load of stuff in Pod Go that's very different to my Vox Tonelab SE/LE units - so I've had to learn about my 'new car' too!
  8. 4 cable method, all explained in the Pod Go manual.
  9. voxman55

    POD Go FAQ

    Hi guys...Frank Ritchotte (Line 6) checked with the engineers and was told that the headphone output impedance for Pod Go is 32 Ohms, not 63 Ohms. Assuming the info given to Frank was correct, to avoid confusion for folk choosing a set of headphones to use with Pod Go, could I suggest that the FAQ is changed?
  10. Hi @benthere77 Contrary to its name the Pod Go isnt just plug in and go. Its going to take a while for you to learn how to use it and I think your expectations to find your tone on the day you bought were probably a tad unrealistic. I've had my Pod Go for 3 weeks and I'm still on a learning curve - however I've been using digital modelling gear for years for gigging so I've gained some modest experience with these. When I first plugged in I was hugely disappointed as I couldn't get anywhere near the tones from my old Vox Tonelab SE (that came out in 2003) and I thought I'd made a bad mistake and was contemplating returning it. But now that I'm figuring it out, I'm simply over the moon with it and getting some stonking tones. There's a lot to learn and in the nicest way your experience as a software developer isn't really going to help you. Learning about tone, EQ, amps, cabs etc is a journey and that journey can often take you down an entirely different road when your gear changes and you have to think a bit differently to real amps and stomp fx. What guitar are you using and can you post a link to a recording of the tone you're trying to get? Through Pod Go you can save and share patches so if I can come up with something that I think might work for you I'd be happy to send you something to try. I'm not familiar with the patch you bought but these will rarely sound the same with your gear compared to theirs and I very recently posted on this topic on The Fretboard. If you could let me know the core elements in the patch you're working on ie amp, cab, reverb, delay and fx types that you're trying to get your tone with and the chain order I'll see what I can come up with although I may change these of course. This might help me to understand what (if anything) might be bringing about your initial disappointment. I'm still learning myself so it will be an interesting exercise, and I have a few different guitars so should have something that's reasonably close to what you might be playing. Don't worry, it's all in there and it's just a case of figuring it out, & I'm happy to try & help. On my Souncloud page (https://soundcloud.com/richard-birch-1 ) there's my e-mail (plus links to my youtube page). Drop me an e-mail and I'll have a go.
  11. Hey @phil_m - how did you copy a page from the manual & highlight it? I tried to do the very same thing last week and couldn't figure it out? I also tried to highlight sections with my mouse, which it did, but there was no way it would seem to let me copy a section of text from the .pdf?
  12. Its an interesting question. The terminology only really evolved relating to amp EQ where the halfway point on the knobs rotary position ie 12 noon 'straight up' was intended to indicate a more neutral halfway tone. Even then this is misleading because on some amps the tone parameters are interactive ie adjustments to one parameter e.g. mids, changes other parameters eg treble and bass, depending on where they are positioned. If you were looking at a bar line equivalent think of it that e.g. if you set mids to halfway and then changed the treble to halfway, the mids and or bass bar would move too. With certain real effects, the adjustment scale is logarithmic not linear which means that half way doesn't always represent the mid point of the parameter range. However, assuming the modelling is accurate this behaviour may still be reproduced but may not equate to what you see. For example although you're seeing the bar at halfway, much in the same way as 12 noon on a rotary dial, that doesn't always mean you are hearing half the range. For example the maximum change you hear might be within the first 70 percent of the parameter range with the remainder having less impact. So 12 noon on the dial or 50 percent along the bar may not always equate to what you might think.
  • Create New...