spaceatl

Yeah, those are generally those elites are folks that have found their own approach that works for them and for some reason feel compelled to preach how there is only one approach...Absolutions are a path to the darkside...elitism is a mental illness and so many suffer from it...Just another symptom of colonized minds... I opted for the smaller form-factor myself...I went with an XL...I have not added a second Stomp...yet...But I have several outboard SA pedals that take the load off where I need it taken off...I know where HX is weak, what I need and figure it out...

Yes, FBV will work....The older FBX will not...That is an FBV long board in the pic...It will work...

DT-770s are 100mW 96db cans...SPL is 96db, so not exactly efficient and I think that's a 1K measurement so I would think the 20-20k rating would be around 87-90db SPL...That usually means at least a 4W @ 16 ohms per channel rated amplifier. That amplifier will put out 250mW per channel @ 250 ohms...2:1 headroom as it should be...A lot of people drop big $ on cans and miss that final step of getting the proper amplifier for them. A headphone amplifier is no different than selecting a properly matched amplifier for near field monitors...I certainly would not just use any old thing for my near fields...just my take...

If an amp that shouldn't be breaking up is breaking up, then you might be hitting it too hard...try the input pad...if the gain goes back to reality, you were probably a bit hot coming in...I have the pad in more than out, even on passive guitars...especially hot pups...passive guitar pickups have stellar transients and you can get right into the limiter on the AD converter if you are not careful...If you tone has turned to glass with no spank, you might be too hot...

if you are using mono playback, you can use the AMP OUT....That's a fixed output unaffected by the volume....If you need stereo and are not using the FX Loop, you can stick the Loop block at the end of the chain and just use a send....That is also a fixed output unaffected by the volume knob...good luck.

Mine came this way new...factory reset brings them back...or update firmware and overwrite patches.

Not thoughts on the monitors....but if your cables are under 20' you don't really need balanced cables. You generally don't need a TRS for a guitar either....I balanced a passive bass back in the day to have a long cable, but that isn't typical...

Normally I am not...A musician friend of mine suffered an unexpected health event and it hit me hard. I think it is unusual for me to lash out, but this week (and past 2 years) got to me this week. Just venting. Your posts are stellar bro and I am glad you are here. We are on the same page. cheers.

Dude, I am just conveying my opinion and experience and why I moved. No more no less...Figured it could further reinforce that the GO might be what he determine he needs as I certainly read that. But I did forget to mention that the locked blocks was a big issue for me as well which doesn't happen on the XL. But I still miss that damn AMP OUT... Are you saying I should not chime in with my experiences when someone is trying to decide between Line 6 modelers?....That's kinda nitpicky bro...

I used Pod GO for the duration of 2020 and did several shows and mostly songwriting....For songwriting/recording, I highly recommend it. It's dead simple and fast to great results...For live it leaves a bit to be desired for me...parallel paths....a must...I use native in my recording so the HX tracks using get dumped anyway since I take the dry at the same time...whatever I record from an HX is generally just placeholder scratch... I switched to the HX XL about a year or so ago and I could not be happier....The layout is basically identical to the GO but with the flexibility I need....The one thing I mess about the GO is the AMP OUT....I can do that with the XL also, but it costs a block and an FX out...Both are great units....Good luck

Currently Sony 7506...They sound like my v900s did and I cut my teeth v600s and still use my coveted cdr3000s I use for post production....I need new pads and a head band again, but I know how Sony sounds and translates so it works for me....I think it's more about finding what works and learning the translation. All cans have a color.

USB hubs have been a problem since Line 6 first went USB on the XT line....All modelers that act as interfaces and have edit ability employ both Bulk Mode (editing) and Streaming Mode (audio) simultaneously. There is an inherent problem with the USB IEEE Leader Follower specification in that Streaming mode allows for an "acceptable" number of dropped packets. Bulk mode is what is used for data transfers like copying files and device presets and that mode must move the data perfectly. Because Streaming is a real-time mode and Bulk is not, when Bulk mode hits a critical condition where it must interupt Streaming mode, the stream will drop some packets and sometimes, bulk mode will get errors. These are low level hardware errors that happen all the time and are corrected. hubs add another layer of interrupts for the other devices in the hub and the hub itself. This is dictated by the spec... It is so much better now that it was years ago, but I don't think hubs will ever be good for streaming audio devices...But then, not all hubs are created equal. So one hub could work where another won't. I have seen it happen with computer MB so many times...New board comes out and there are bugs in the modes and you have to update the BIOS to fix it...Sometimes a shop will develop a driver using a flawed chipset and workaround the issue....then the chipset is updated and workaround breaks the driver....but yeah, hubs are mostly bad results for Line 6 stuff.

what are you short on most of the time? I have a similar problem as a bass player using an HX Stomp XL. For me, there is not a limiter, pre compressor or EQ that doing what I need. Also, the synths are a bit too latent for me to use for tighter faster tempo stuff. So I figured out where I was short and added Source Audio Ultrawave, C4, EQ2 and a neural hub. In my case a Full Helix would not help as what I wanted is simply not there. I have not found anything in Helix like the Ultrawave. That thing is deep. It could be if what you need is in Helix and you just need 1-8 more blocks to get it where you want it, it might be an HX stomp would get you there. If you need more, then it might be that a Helix rack makes more sense. There are lots of ways to optimize patches for dsp...If you have done all the tricks, I totally understand where you are coming from. If not, I would recommend trying a few things like not using a volume block and instead assigning expression to the channel volume on the amp model, 1024 IR saves you a lot over a 2048...When reverb is less important, use an old Hall or plate...There are many ways to get a bit more out of it...Especially, if you are downloading patches and have not really explored different approaches for the same outcome. Good luck.

Good news. man that was a blast from the past...

I am not sure, but I think if that XT still has factory firmware, you will need a midi interface to update it. IIRC, when XT and XTL were released it was over a year before the USB support came along....I know this was true for the XTL...XT was the first modeler Line 6 did that used USB...There is a screen in the XT some place where you can see the firmware version, maybe on startup. I gave mine to my brother, so I can't check it out at the moment, but if you are on an Intel Mac (Not M1, that will not work with XT ever...they are not updating it.), you likely need a midi interface to get it up to a point where USB was supported...

my poor attempt at a bad joke...I did not see that either....I just thought about the Helix being around 40' behind an MXR....Those things were slow...SPX-90 was kinda slow too...It's all just time alignment.....gotta deal with it on everything...What has always been interesting to me about sound traveling just under 1 foot in 1ms is that 1kHz propagates to just under 1 foot in length...

You certainly inferred 40ms of latency in your post....At sea level it takes sound 0.887ms to travel a foot...You latency variables make no sense at all bro...lol!

I recommended the AMP OUT PRE IR approach because the OP stated he is using the FX return of a conventional guitar amp. Not sure why the manual says it is intended for the front of the amp. Sounds like a noob line. It's a complex subject and highly subjective based on various needs and preferences...But it does not even matter...Sure use the front...all the matters is that the AMP output level and tap point are set correctly for the situation. Even then it is subjective... I ran the similar for over a year...Most of the time performing on FRFR.....When I was in a provided backline situation, I changed the AMP OUT from MAIN to PRE IR and use whatever is provided. CAB block always at the end of my chain...My patches are checked for summation...So my suggestion is based on my own experience and workflows...I tweak for FRFR on the main outs....The amp out settings change based on the situation and the cab block is always at the end of the chain as I always run direct, but my monitoring changes. I suppose the advantage for me is that it worked really well and I did not need separate patches...Simplified my workflow and gave me better results...anyway, that's my own personal rationale. It's a simple approach that worked great for me and the dedicated AMP OUT is the one GO feature that I miss the most since moving to HX...Sure I can do it, but it costs a block and part of the FX Loop on HX....

I've encountered that phenom with HD when I was way into doing morphing patches. A lot of the time I used an expression pedal, other times an expression button I made. A poor man's scene toggle for HD. I had a lot of settings on the expression and it was a pain to tweak those...The amp tone stack, gain stomp parms, delay mix, feedback...Most often, this was useful for crunch to lead...But there was often a spot in between where it would overshoot the volume as things were morphing as it moved to boosted... It's a little easier to minimize it if you program the toggle onto an expression so you can find the min/max that works mostly and slow the morph down to understand what is happening and find some compromise...then apply it to a button...It can sorta work for some things, but I think the better way to do a perfect amp morph is to sequence parms individually...These days, you would be better served with a Helix or LT as you can just have a second amp or entire fx chain and just crossfade it with an expression pedal or button...

Poly pitch is extremely expensive in dsp terms. You must be using an HX Stomp, XL or FX..If you are at a point where you feel the poly is a must have, you will need likely more dsp to finish basic tones on an HX.

why would anyone want to 4cm? jk...I could not really tell if he was running 4cm or not from his post of LT to an effects loop of some stage amp....I inferred a power amp in scenario ir skip...

I think I would just use a FX Send block right before the cab block for guitar power amp signal and let the main outs be the FRFR outputs for a monitor and house feed. Then I either use the send or not...a situational output I suppose. Like the Amp Out on the Pod GO....

I used my HD modeler with my Spider Valves for a long time....I would take the same approach with HX...Stick to the PRE model versions...and leave the cab model out.

I would recommend using the amp out. Also visit the System Settings to insure the Amp Out is configured to be PRE/IR. I think this is the default, but I am not sure. When you pull up presets, you will need to make a small adjustment and move the CAB block to the end of the chain. If you don't, then you will not hear the post effects (after the cab block). Basically you are getting the pre cab signal to your amp...The color of tone will be marked by however that 10" speaker sounds and being open back low end can get a bit strange depending on the room placement....Should be ok starting place tho...

try assigning the delay mix parameter instead...might want to knock the max down a bit