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smrybacki

Jtv59 String Change Question

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I was wondering whether the is any guidance out there from Line6 concerning string changes on the JTV59? I ask because other guitar manufacturers have advised certain things such as one at a time string change in order to prevent undue stress on the neck. When I change strings on a Strat or a Tele, I occasionally remove all the strings in order to clean the fretboard and so on. Any reason not to do this with a JTV59?

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if I was you, I would remove all the strings without worries.

after all the JTV is a normal guitar from the luthiery point of view

Ok...I'll take you up on that and if it breaks, it's your fault :D

 

Totally kidding, of course.  Thank you sir....

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Lol :D ..

 

all jokes aside, I have a Variax 700 that is not a JTV, but it is still a Variax ..

 

when I change all the strings, I do like some good luthiers:

with a peg winder I turn down the tension of the strings, and cut them all together in the middle..

 

it's a very quick method, and also by doing so it eliminates the danger of inadvertently cut the wires of the piezos with the irregular ends of the old strings when they are extracted from the bridge..

 

I never had a problem to the neck..

Hey, that's good thinking right there.  Never really thought about it before, but those curly cue ends could damage the piezo pickups.  Good catch!

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If I'm not cleaning the fret board I change them one at a time because it's easier to get the trem back in position on my JTV69S.  With my hard tail guitars I change them all at once so I can easily clean the fretboard and on my active pickup guitars, change the 9V battery that is under the pickguard.

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Ditto -- on my 59, I change them all at once - also clean & oil the fret board, since I got it in 2011, no problems. The neck is solid as a rock and has never been affected.

 

When I got my 69S in late 2012, it was a bit of a shock to have the trem bridge come off its pins (with a snap! by the springs), so I take off the inner 4 strings and clean & oil the finger board with the low & high E's still holding the bridge in place, then put on the 4 inner strings and they hold the bridge in position so I can replace the high & low E's last. Never have that problem with my Strat, as it is the type (late 70's) with the classic 6 screws holding the trem block bridge in place instead of the 2 point trem blocks on this and many other strat-like guitars...

 

Dave

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I had a Rickenbacker 360 with the "R" tail piece once and I wanted to change all the strings at once to pull the fretboard. Without really thinking I removed all of the strings and the "R" hit the carpet lol.

 

You would not believe the balancing act that is required to get that thing back together and restrung.

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IF you guys want an extra touch of glass on those frets, try Nevrdull polish wadding. I use it on all my guitars when changing strings. It adds a little extra clean glass feel to your string movement and sound.  It basically polishes the frets.

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