clay-man

Does anyone have any info of where the analog audio comes from on the Variax?

I was having trouble as well on the JCM 800. Using an SG setting on my Variax and trying to get it as jangly sounding as the guitar on the left speaker: I can do it in Guitar Rig's JCM 800 but not the HD's. And yes that's what he's using to get that sound, SG into a JCM 800.

Still waiting for a super cheap 69s maple fretboard JTV.

Reflashing helps to eliminate any lingering corrupted coding, regardless of how up to date you are. There's always the possibility of having hardware failure, but it's always best to exhaust all software possibilities as well.

1/4 needs a D/A converter so yes. I'm looking. I tried pushing in the ribbon cables in as snug as I can. I tried soldering the pots in as best as I can. None of them look like they're soldered wrong, no cold joints. Both pots work 100% in VDI just fine. I tried moving the coffin around, nothing happens, sometimes it makes noise in the audio, but barely anything. No buzzing when touching metal parts on the guitar, so I'm assuming it's not a grounding issue I had like before. Kind of a bummer to not be able to use it without a POD, but I'd like to fix it if I can.

I replaced my Volume and Tone pots because they were extremely loose. New ones feel great. VDI sounds just fine. I tried the 1/4 jack and all I hear is this really quiet buzzing noise. Absolutely no sound other than that. Did I miss something? Can someone help please?

Do you have a POD? See if VDI works.

Good. Personally I would get a Roland GR-55 if I had money to throw around, but probably not a Roland MFX. Their effects and features are good but the amp modeling is just meh for me. I love my POD, I was genuinely upset about the possibility of losing mine, luckily it's working again for now.

You could always use a volume pedal block and turn it down if your guitar input is too hot.

Thank you. I was getting the workbench problem again a few times but I guess I just have to live with it. It only happens when it's loading the Variax, nothing else. I flashed my Variax through my POD to make sure it wasn't a communication error, no errors through there. Weird. As long as it doesn't do those DAW/computer recognition drop outs, or corruption in HD Edit I'm happy. Those drop outs was were I crossed the line for sure, I really prefer to use my POD as an audio interface. It's nice to know I don't have to waste more money buying a replacement. I'm going to be more careful getting equipment now. It's why I don't have a JTV yet because I don't want to buy a used one and run into more of this junk.

So the POD is sensitive to the Variax being connected. I did have to pull the prongs out a bit on my VDI port on the Variax because it wouldn't read the Variax if I had the VDI cable pulled out as far as I can from the socket that the locking mechanism will allow me. I am having just the worst of luck with technology, If I upgrade to the 500x I'm not getting used again, that's for sure. Thank you for the info guys. I'm confident that it's virtually impossible to permanently brick a POD though unless the POD hardware is damaged, because I've flashed this thing so many times after failed flashes it's not even funny, mostly to test the USB connection though.

Thanks Zap. I can live with it as long as it doesn't do it no matter what I do. As long as everything else works fully fine then I can live.

Does anyone else have this problem? I did a few tests, and the reflash process seems to freeze when I plug in my Variax into the POD. Everything else with USB communication works 100% fine but when I try reflashing my POD with my Variax plugged in it either freezes the process or doesn't make it work at all. When I unplugged it, the process went just fine. I've done the Safe Mode Variax test and it comes back with an F. This isn't good is it? I don't get it. Everything else works just fine.

Using the normal driver, both of them increase latency, so no. I just don't get what's the difference. There's obviously 2 buffers, but why?

If you can dial in a tone you like then that's all that matters. The point of not using studio direct is so you don't virtually end up having a cabinet being miced, going into another cabinet. If your real cabinet doesn't cut frequencies much then you can get away with using direct/studio, otherwise there's a possibility of cutting too much high end and making it sound muddy. Sound is completely subjective though.

I know what latency is, but there are 2 buffer sizes in the POD configuration panel in control panel for windows. One is labeled ASIO Settings, with a dropdown box with numbers 128, 256, 512, etc. The second is a slider saying "extra small, medium, extra large" with the title "ToneDirect & USB Audio Streaming" They both seem to affect the latency. As for ASIO4ALL, I know you're supposed to use the driver your device comes with, but like I said, I like to route to multiple outputs, something almost all ASIO drivers can't do, but ASIO4ALL can, with low latency results. I use ASIO4ALL for streaming my guitar and music live. The question is, why is there 2 buffer settings and not one in the Line 6 Audio control panel?

What is the difference between these? Does the POD have 2 buffers? I set it to extra small, seems to work decently. I'm using ASIO4ALL so I can route output to Virtual Audio Cable. Works wonders. Just wondering though.

Try reflashing. Check if Workbench works with your Variax still. If all goes wrong, you might have a component in your Variax fried.

Honestly, good. I'm not paying 3.5k for a modeler. One of the things I like about modeling is that usually despite how much it offers, it's usually very affordable.

After messing around and checking stuff, I am confident that I received a POD with the USB already in poor condition. Kind of makes me mad since the description was "works perfect". Why do I think this? Because even right when I got it, I was already having problems with Workbench telling me it can't read the Variax anymore. I haven't gotten that once since I replaced the USB. Even before the plastic pole broke on the port I was having trouble with HD Edit not giving me errors on start up about a corrupt patch. Here's to hoping I won't have any more trouble with the USB port anymore, I'm sure I soldered it in pretty nicely. Here's some pictures: Old USB port New port Inside behind the port The ports I bought were cheap but they feel nice and sturdy. The USB cable had a bit of trouble sliding into the port the first few times, which means that it fits snug, which is a good thing. No wobbling around. Even then, the plastic in the port seems to be made out of good durable plastic, hard, but durable plastic, something that won't snap off without incredible force. Hope this topic is helpful to some. If any of you run into this, I highly suggest taking off the top footswitch panel instead of taking off the ribbon cable as it's extremely hard. Just take out the plastic and springs from underneath the button and put them in a container, after that put them back in with tweezers. Cheers. Happy PODing

Hahaha, you know what's the most satisfying sound in the world? Freakin, "Dun dun!" noise when I plugged the usb in the new USB port! I think I got it! Hopefully everything is fixed! Here's hoping! I'll post pictures later! Cheers!

Thank you so much for the feedback. It's really going to help. I'm no longer too afraid about disassembling the POD anymore. I did loose 1 spring for the stomp buttons but luckily it still has enough pressure to trigger it, just doesn't make a big click noise anymore. I'm going to practice and watch some soldering videos prior to doing this. The last time I tried I was having trouble getting the solder to melt. Hopefully this new solder iron and solder will fix the problem.

Will a pencil tip solder iron work? I also have a thin lead/tin rosin solder wire. I fixed my Variax piezo with a solder iron once but it was a chisel type iron.

I disassembled my POD but my Solder Iron wasn't working, so at least I know how to take it apart now. Soldering a USB port shouldn't be too hard. Wish me luck.

Lovely, here we go. So I'm using Reaper, and these past few days, I've been getting these instances where Reaper stops processing/communicating with the POD. The POD is working fine. If I try to start anything related to communicating with the POD it'll crash my computer. Trying to unplug and plug it back in does nothing it doesn't detect that it was disconnected and reconnected. Probably my USB port? Seriously, should I send it in or repair it myself? Anyone ever get something like this?