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ColonelForbin

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ColonelForbin last won the day on September 7 2016

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  1. Hmm; I have mine set kinda goofy. And I had all sorts of problems when I tried to use the loop as two different mono blocks, but no problems using one loop as described below. As I have them now on my two boards (one with an XL Stomp, one with regular Stomp), I have some FX before the Stomp main input. Then Stomp fx loop send to a regular TS cable - I don't use a TRS splitter cable. That goes to the rest of the pedals on the board; dirt, phaser, boost, etc., then out to amp input. Amp fx loop send then goes to the Stomp fx loop return, through the post HX fx - volume pedal, chorus, boost/eq, delay, verb, etc., then Stomp left main out to amp fx loop return.
  2. Yeah; when bypassing the HX fx loop block, you should then also be activating an HX amp or preamp model (without cab model). You set the footswitch to toggle the two blocks; one goes off as the other switches on. So, with HX fx loop on you are using your real amps' actual preamp. And with HX fx loop off, IE, you bypass your real amps' actual preamp, and then you would substitute an HX preamp or HX amp model, but leave out the cab model. Put your HX modulation, delay, and reverb after the amp / preamp model and FX loop blocks. Watch your ears! Some MAJOR volume shifts, as you are aware. Use that master volume to turn way down when auditioning various amp models / preamp models. I'll take a look at your other post; I've got two boards set up using HX fx loop, and amp fx loop, in 4CM or whatever it is - way more than 4 cables... HX stomp on one, and Stomp XL on the other. The biggest problem is figuring out how to turn on and off all the blocks you want to use when using the Stomp in a pedalboard.
  3. Yeah; I had some issues trying to use both loops in my boards; I've got a Stomp XL on a larger board, and a Stomp on a smaller board. At one point I had some pedals in front of amp isolated in a loop; with other pedals in front of the HX; and the 2nd loop going to and from the amp. I settled on a less than perfect solution; in that I use one loop in the HX; using a regular TS cable for the HX FX loop send - does NOT need to be a TRS splitter cable if only using one loop. So; basically doing this; this is the layout for the smaller board; the larger is very similar just different pedals. Actually, that's not totally true - on the smaller board I use an Empress Stereo buffer on the back right corner of the board, which takes the amp fx loop send and amp fx loop return cables. Then the HX is wired into the Empress fx loop, and on that board, the HX out goes: Empress fx loop send> SA Nemesis > SA Ventris > Empress fx loop return On the bigger board, the amp send and return cables go to HX fx loop return, and HX main out left /mono. guitar > tuner > wah > comp > > HX input > HX: poly whammy or octave > HX: envelope > HX: precision drive dirt model > HX: fx loop block send > > mini TS > mini red dirt > OCD > carbon copy > to amp input amp fx loop send > Empress buffer > Empress fx loop HX: fx loop block return > HX: la comp > HX: volume pedal > HX:delay > main out L > SA Nemesis > SA Ventris > Empress FX loop return > to amp fx loop return Anyway, the less than ideal part, is with this arrangement I can' do the preamp swap trick; since that would also remove all the pedals on the board after the HX fx loop send before the amp input. I should probably revisit that two fx loop HX set up to figure out if I had done something wrong.. Also for what it's worth, EBS makes these flat end insert cables https://ebssweden.com/content2/accessories/patch-cables-connectors/
  4. Here are a few key bits copied from the DMC manual: MAX PRESET / PRST: Number of presets available in Preset mode. If PRST is set to OFF, preset mode will be disabled. Range OFF to 99, default 16. PRST CHAN/ P CH: Sets the channels the DMC will send using Preset Mode. Set A, B, C, D to send on channels 1, 2, 3, 4. Set any channel to 0 to disable sending on that channel. DEVICES / DEV: Number of available device modes. Each device mode controls one MIDI device on channels 1-4 (devices A-D.) Range OFF to DevD, default DevA https://www.disasterareadesigns.com/s/DMCmicro-PRO-manual-202a-WEB.pdf Boss 200-Series: All of the pedals in this series have the same MIDI implementation. Please ensure that your 200-series pedal is updated to the latest firmware from the Boss site to enable full MIDI control. Configure the device slot you wish to use for your Boss pedal as Boss 200 / BOS2. Ex. DevD = Boss 200. Configure MULTIJACK = MIDI TIP / MID.T and set JACK CHAN / J CH to match the device slot you have selected, ex. JACK CHAN = CH D. Ensure that the DIP switches on the DMC.micro are set to ON-ON-ON. Connect your Boss pedal’s 1/8” MIDI input to the MutliJack using a 1/4” to 1/8” TRS cable Enter the 200-series settings menu by holding the two buttons above the footswitches, ex. TAP DIVISION and MEMORY on the DD-200. Turn the data knob to select a parameter, then press it to select and change that parameter. On the DD-200 this is the TIME knob. Configure rCH to match the MIDI channel for your chosen device slot, ex. DevA = CH1, DevB = CH2. Configure tCh = OFF, Pin = ON, Pot = OFF, CCi = ON, CCo = OFF, EPC = 16, EFC = 27, SYn = Aut, Nth = ON Save and exit by holding both buttons down
  5. DMC preset mode is where you tell the DMC how many P01, P02, etc DMC presets. These are where P01 in the DMC recalls a specific Preset in the HX and in the DD at the same time. The P01, P02, etc. order does not need to follow the HX or DD preset sequence. And it will only recall the presets you assign to each P01, P02. The other preset scroll mode should send preset up or preset down commands to the HX and thru to the DD. However that mode was glitchy for me with the HX in that it kept jumping to 01A on the HX. I just started setting up the DMC preset mode and liking it wayyyy better. Also have a Nemesis and Ventris on that board; do not yet have them linked to the DMC preset mode but that's next.
  6. In the DMC settings make sure you set it to DEV B which will allow it to control both the HX and the DD. Default is DEV A, for single device control. You will want to use the DMC preset mode. And use the web editor for the DMC it's gonna be way easier than editing on the device. But; easy enough to check the DEV A or DEV B setting. Unplug the DMC. When powering it on hold down the left button until it says entering set up.
  7. Thank you! I think that's what I was trying to figure out! I imagine for OP the same process of the preset editing and assignments also applies if using a splitter cable and both outputs on the Mission. But if you can do that with a regular TRS cable, even better! I'm delving into running my HX Stomp and HX Stomp XL boards in 4CM with their amps; and realizing I need expression pedal control for both of them to really get the most out of the wah, volume, and whammy effects; to name a a few.
  8. Has anyone tested this yet? https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PPHX--voodoo-lab-hx-current-doubler-cable-18-inch-dual-2.1mm-to-2.5mm-straight-barrel-power-cable Conveniently Power Your HX Device with Voodoo Lab The Voodoo Lab HX Current Doubler Cable makes it easier than ever to power your Line 6 HX Effects or HX Stomp device. Using a single cable constructed of two 2.1mm plugs and one 2.5mm plug
  9. I need to reset the presets. Mine (got it yesterday) came loaded with factory presets all titled "New Preset"; with Fx, blocks, amps, etc. all set up. Just, no preset titles. Kinda weird! Seems to have the latest firmware on it. Pretty awesome little unit though. I've got the HX regular on my other board, this one is going on my Friedman board. For amp fx loop stuff; comp, gate, eq, boost, modulation, delay, verb; and looper. The 6 button looper is a major upgrade. I make do with the HX using a two button trs switch, a two button midi (DMC micro) and expression pedal thru the DMC. And using the DMC for looper on the HX does work well enough- alot better than the one button version. But the XL looper 6 button option is way better. Also, adding a two button trs switch (I had a Boss FS-7 which works fine) for FS7, and FS8 is very useful, specially having dedicated mode and tap temp buttons assigned. Really makes using it alot easier now! My buddy uses the smaller board with the HX, so we'll be able to come up with some cool presets; using them same way on his rig. I've got a Friedman, he uses a Boogie.
  10. That amp has an fx loop bypass. Not sure how to access it; possibly via footswitch?
  11. This is the replacement L6 Link main board that we bought one of, and then the service center bought another..(why? at the direction of Line6?) Line 6 has yet to answer as to why they couldn't figure out how to direct their authorized service center how to install and use the perfectly fine card we bought. Or why they had the authorized service center purchase a second Line6 link card; which they exhibited the same problems without first properly diagnosing the ACTUAL ISSUES. Wow; I know - way too logical for the world in COVID lockdown; how dare I expect common sense.. :) If Line6 can't direct the own 'authorized' (who does the authorizing???) service tech team on how to repair their own equipment; who will? (it's a rhetorical question; the answer is apparently NO ONE anymore knows how to repair these speakers....)
  12. Hey everyone! I’m dealing with an ongoing attempt to get an L3m repaired by my local authorized Line6 service center, and could use some advice and/or anyone’s particular experience dealing with these speakers. It’s been in and out of the local authorized service center a few times over the last 7 months; and is going back yet again in a few days. This has been stretched out abnormally long due to COVID shutdown, and according to the repair center, also due to in part their inability to get the response they need from Line6 to complete the repair. Meanwhile Line6 claims the opposite. I don’t know the truth of this; but I do know in all these months neither the repair center nor Line6 has been able to sort out how to actually repair this thing... Here’s the short story: - When connected to the M20d mixer using L6 link, this speaker now shows up as an L3S; and NOT as an L3Tower (L3m/L3t). - The six speaker modes do not function properly when using the physical buttons on the back; only four light up; it won’t cycle to the lower two. - The sounds coming out of this speaker are severely muddy; major high frequency cut. Toggling the speaker modes doesn’t change the crossover/high cut - However! when using the M20d via L6link I can manually override the crossover going to the damaged L3m, and then audio passing to it is no longer muddy. It doesn’t stay like this however.. The speaker was damaged when it tipped partially over while on a speaker stand and the cable plugged into the L6link jack impacted the side of a guitar speaker cab, and pushed the jack in and broke some stuff. At that point it no longer worked via L6Link, but sound input to the analog XLR in was fine. That is no longer the case with the replacement link cards installed; XLR analog in is no good now. - So; first up; we contacted Full Compass, and bought the replacement L6link board, and installed it ourselves. This didn’t fix the problem… - So then we took it to the local authorized service center that Line6 referenced us to, and they ordered another of the L6link board. (not sure why? at Line6 direction?) - This board also exhibited identical incorrect behavior as the one we had already bought. identifies in M20d as L3s sub, low frequency sound only / no treble. - The most recent attempt for Line6 to troubleshoot this had my tech move a small jumper from old board to new. - It didn’t help. We had already done that from the broken board to the board we bought from Full Compass. There is clearly something very wrong for this speaker to identify itself to the M20d as an L3s.; but that it seems promising I can override the crossover temporarily with the M20d, so the speaker is capable of performing properly; so it doesn’t *seem* to be be a power amp or tweeter or other functional issue; as opposed to a DSP related error. If anyone has ANY ideas, please let me know! I Thank you. :)
  13. Ok; so I have a follow up; and it's not great... The M20d Sweetwater sent me was defective right out of the box. The screen freeze issue; almost immediately - within the first few minutes of using it. So; since they are awesome, they cross-shipped me a 2nd unit, and...defective, right out of the box. That one would not write to any SD Card; even cards tested to work in the other M20d units. SO..I called Sweetwater again; to see about getting another one - annnnnndddddd....no more; no mas - the line is 100% officially discontinued. Sadly, I'm going to have to send both of these back. And, so....I have a new Zoom L-20 that arrived Monday!! And we'll be testing it tomorrow at rehearsal. :) I'm going to keep using the LIne6 speakers; I have two L2t and two L3m. The Zoom L-20 has six TRS monitor sends which eachcan be toggled for headphones or for floor wedges. The snake we use has four TRS returns, so that will cover the 3 floor monitors; the other sends go to a vertical L3m and to the drum monitor PA. I must say, the Line6 M20 was amazing for several years, and we got ALOT of amazing recordings with it, ran a ton of live sound, and did even more jam recordings and all other manner of stuff with it. I'm going to look at doing a factory reset on my old M20d, and maybe look at getting it serviced by Sweetwater; will see... That being said, Cheers! One door closes; another opens...
  14. I had a similar issue when I once powered off the mixer while still recording. The files would not play on the M20d or load into Pro Tools; but did play in VLC. It ended up being corrupt headers in the .wav files data. I was able to copy the header data from other recordings that I had which were LONGER in time than the corrupt files (otherwise it truncates the corrupt.wavs to the length of the wav you took the header from)
  15. Yeah; I just ordered another one from Sweetwater; it will be here tomorrow. And they are currently on sale for addtl $200 off; now $599 new.... (And with 48mos. financing) I paid full price for the first one I bought in 2014. It is now been acting up alot lately; random horrible feedback on all channels; sound dropouts. I have had to power off and back on to get the sound to come back. The feed back thing is horrible. You go to adjust one of the gain trims and everything goes crazy screaming feedback. It seems to have an issue with sensing the location of the trim position; or something I dunno. The new price seems to indicate it's close out time.. Not sure! Hope the new one lasts as long as this one did.. At least it's covered for two years with SW... Might try to get the old one refurbished. Cheers!
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