pederlyng

I am fully aware how the main outputs work - i just draw attention to the fact that when you connect a TRS jack to the main out left/mono output, the TS carries the summed signal, and the TR is silent. If the thread starter has used a split cable (as I tried to at first) this could explain why one channel is silent ...

A cable with a TRS jack in one end and splitted into two TS jacks will only carry the left channel when connected to main L/Mono output. Maybe this is what VioletaCasaubon experiences ?

That is how it works when you drive your amps dirty channel input harder: more drive/distortion and no audible increase in level. Do this instead: Activate the effecs loop in your PG preset and place your volume boost there. Then connect the effects loop of the PG to the effects loop of your Super Crush. Now you are boosting the signal AFTER your amps preamp ...

I connect my PG to my studio monitors (sub with 2 x RCA connectors, passes signal on to 2 x desktop monitors). Cable with TRS jack goes into Main Out Left (mono) and splits into two RCA-connectors, that go into sub (left/right). But I get only left channel - right channel is silent. Do I need a cable with a TS jack into PG ? I am aware that I will get a mono signal out of the PG. Manual isn't clear on this, I think ...

YouTube videos have their own volume-controller as well - haven't they ? I use it always when I play YouTube music from Mac to PodGo ...

I do what you do: I play music from Mac to PodGo. I use the 'Music' app, it has its own button for controlling playback level

You have problably checked this already, but I'll mention it anyway: I have bought a few presets, and they all had the vol pedal set to zero by default. That is, when you switch to a preset, there is no sound - until you physically move the vol pedal ...

I play both acoustic and electric through my Pod Go. I have made separate presets for my Hummingbird and a smaller parlor acoustic, both with L.R.Baggs Element piezos. I use the 'studio preamp' and EQ to dial in the tone and level - and chorus, reverb, and delay in different combinations (snapshots). No IRs - and directly into to PA - great tone :-)

The 4 snapshots within any given bank share the same amp and effects. You can switch effects on / off and change amp and effects settings - but you cannot swap amps or effects within those 4 snapshots. For that you'll need another bank ...

Super, thanks - I will ask Thomann to get me one as well.

Please let us know if Thomann can supply the original Line 6 psu. I would like to have a spare ...

Thomann have several psu's that may work - for instance https://www.thomann.de/dk/joyo_jp_03_power_supply.htm I believe that 2000 mAh is enough? The Myvolts psu might work as well - you'll just need an adapter to reverse the output polarity ...

Be aware that the psu in the link is 'center positive'. Pod Go requires a psu with 'center negative' ...

I know how to access the 2 and 4 models - i just pointed out, that if you aim to create a 'kill switch' effect, you'll have to consider carefully where to put the 'blank'. E.g. if you assign the 'blank' to position 5, it can't be used when the Alt. Tuning knob is engaged ...

You can store 5 presets in each bank - but the JTV-59 switch is 3-way. Have this in mind, if you want to create a 'kill switch' effect.

Thank you for your input - after a few gigs we ended up doing exactly the same thing: always 70 'on' first, scan for frequencies, then 10 'on' - it works :-)

One important difference is that the 75 has no foot switch. To be able to mute and cycle through scenes with your foot, you'll need an extra switch for the 75 ...

I've been using my G70 for a few months now - no drop outs. Been doing a lot of rehearsals and gigs - no problems whatsoever :-) Now the bass player in my band has acquired a G10. At our first gig with both G's running, I got a lot of drop outs. Sometimes for just one second, sometimes for 5-10 seconds. Eventually there was no sound from my G70. Bass player shut down and restarted the G10, while my G70 was 'on'. Improvement for at few minutes, then the G70 drop outs came back. We ended up with the bass player using a cable instead of the G10 - and my G70 was OK again ... What is the correct procedure for making G70 and G10 work together? G70 has latest firmware on both receiver and transmitter - and seems to work OK, except when the G10 is 'on' ...

The JTV59 has a 3 position toggle switch (like an LP type guitar) but you can still asign 5 favorites to the Custom bank. 3 of your favorites are chosen directly with the 3 way switch - accessing the remaining 2 favorites requires pushing the alt tuning knob - like this: Model 1 = 3-way toggle switch upper position Model 2 = 3-way toggle switch middle position Model 3 = 3-way toggle switch lower position Model 4 = 3-way toggle switch upper position + alt tuning knob engaged Model 5 = 3-way toggle switch lower position + alt tuning knob engaged - not as easy as using a 5-position switch - but it can be done. And everything can be programmed with Workbench HD. You might also consider a Standard, that has the familiar Strat-style 5-position switch.

You can use a standard pedalboard PSU that supplies 9V DC power with center-negative polarity. The 'Pilots Guide' that comes with the G70 recommends 500mA - but the 'Advanced guide' (which I checked before buying) recommends 350mA only. However, the G70 works fine with my Cioks PSU that includes a 9V / 400mA outlet.

My Polytune isn't too keen on tuning when modelling is turned on - I always turn off modelling and use the mags for tuning ...

You are right, of course - in theory, less string-tension gives a little extra fret buzz and affects the intonation. But hardly audible, to my ears (well trained after +40 years with guitar playing) - and no issue when playing live. One thing which is much more audible, is the effect of modelling/alt tuning. Sounds great in a live situation - ALMOST like the real thing, but not 100 % ... Have you tried Eb-tuning? Been doing it for many years on my LP - no problem. With 0.10's.

Never needed new set-up when going from standard E-tuning to Eb-tuning and back again - on JTV-59, Standard, or LP, Strat, and Tele for that matter. And yes, you can use alternate tuning when in modelling mode - but I use both mags and modelling, so the answer is Eb-tuning - for ALL songs, when we do live gigs, that is ... and the singer is happy :-)

To help the singer of our band a little bit we always tune half a step down, i.e. Eb tuning. It works very well with my JTV-59 and my Standard, no need for new setup or anything. And no problems with alt tunings - they are all relative to the actual tuning of the guitar.