redmonda

Another option - Put a compressor in front of your chain. You can set up a switch to toggle the level higher/lower. You can have the same button change the drive/bass/etc for the amp. Call it a HB/Single Coil switch. Single coils are generally brighter and lower output. So when the switch is engaged, you want to increase the input level, probably bump up the bass and maybe even adjust the drive gain on the amp. In fact, there is a guy over on TGP who is a P&W guitarist. He has presets available (for free, donation strongly encouraged as he his a stand-up dude...). He does this technique. You can try his patches to see what I mean... https://alexdotguitars.wordpress.com/helix-presets/ He generally sets the amp gain higher than I prefer. But you'll get the idea. BTW, he puts this on FS1, so if you have a Helix Lt, you may have to look at the options assigned to that button in the editor and assign it to a different FS (he has it set up as "controllers" for the compressor level and the amp bass parameters...)

I've seen this issue and encounter it frequently. It also occurs when copying blocks to blank presets (i.e. copy an amp block, go to the blank preset, past is not an option). I'm assuming it is an editor bug. It's a bit annoying - I'll have to go back and attempt to copy the block 3-4 times on average before it works....

There was also a poll on TGP about whether users were satisfied or dis-satisfied with the tuner -> the results were overwhelmingly satisfied (it was almost 70% if I recall). I think they've seen the complaints... and see that it represents the minority and don't see a problem. Guess we'll see....

Here are a compressor setting that I use with good effect: Compressor - Red Comp Sensitivity: 9 Mix: 27% Level: 0db The low mix should keep your initial pick attack in check and mostly just add sustain. It's pretty transparent as well. Worth a shot...

The issue is in the implementation. In order to capture the cab info, you need a "flat mic" (to capture what your 'ear' truly hears). You'd also need an anechoic chamber (which is quite difficult to do in practice) to prevent any effect of the room. You also need a sophisticated enough monitor/playback system that can meet the needs. Even then, it is going to 'feel' different depending on how close to the cab you were standing. Should I capture at 5'? 10'? etc. In theory, they could truly "model" a cab rather than capture an IR, then use this "modeled" cab simulation to generate IR's as the user desires. This would likely be an external application rather than built-in due to the processing required to perform this. If you acoustically model a cab, speakers, materials, etc and then pick a simulation point (i.e. x,y,z coordinates where your ear is located relative to a reference point in the cab) then you can spit-out simulated IR's. This would have to be a pretty involved tool in and of itself to allow the user to determine their configuration to get the right IR. This would obviously also not account for the room that you are accustomed to listening in.

Hopefully this doesn't come across as argumentative, just food for thought: This is a problem of physics, not a limitation of modelling. An FRFR monitor CANNOT possibly sound like a 412 cabinet. It moves air differently. The cabinet resonates and has all sort of physical effects in how the sound is actually produced that can ONLY be created by using that cab. Does your 1x12 sound like your 4x12? Would you expect it to? Why would you expect an FRFR monitor (which is really just a different kind of cab/speaker combination) to sound like any other cabinet? Put 2 "FRFR" monitor brands next to each other - they will sound different. Even though they're both "flat", any physical difference in any speaker combination will affect sound by the nature of how sound is generated. All that to say, it's not a matter of modelling in my opinion.

I'm not familiar with that amp - does it have an effects loop? Your best bet is to bypass the physical amps pre-amp section (if possible) and run direct into the power-amp (the FX return, if your amp has one). On your helix, you'd likely want to disable the cab block and use only an Amp model (and some even prefer only the pre-amp model, you'll have to try for yourself). All that said.... it's being amplified by your 2x12 cab and will always take on some flavor of that 2x12... You'll be able to pull off a "cab in the room" type sound, but won't have quite as much flexibility as an FRFR monitor solution (which can't really nail the "cab in the room" feeling, there is always a trade-off...)

These are just the notes I copied from the 1st post in the thread. I'm unclear as well, though I believe the answer is 1. (i.e. the "drive" knob on helix is like the "volume" knob on a non-master-volume type amp). My understanding is that typically drive is pre-amp gain and master is power-amp gain.

Sounds like you got confused by the manual... or maybe just misunderstood terminolgoy? Check out he following: Manual page 11 (Stomp Footsiwtch mode) This does exactly what you want. You can assign any block (delay, distortion, etc) to any footswitch. See the manual "Bypass Assign" section on page 40. You can also set up snapshots where various effects are on/off in any combination or change parameters of effects etc with a single button press. i.e. press one button to turn on delay block, turn on tube screamer, turn off pitch block and change amp gain to 10. You can still switch back to stomp mode and individually control pedals. There is a lot of info in the "snapshots" section on page 34.

I'm looking at the video... and I just don't see the noise that you do. I see some fuzziness in the scope, but I believe this can be accounted by the analog screen having limited resolution. Put this on a high-res digital scope, and you'd get a cleaner display. Edit: Forgot to mention, EE here with plenty of experience with modern and vintage scopes. We have a sweet all-tube scope at my work from the 1940's!

Over on TGP Modeling forum, the Atomic CLR is one of the most highly regarded FRFR monitors. Pricey, but if you're looking for the best, that's probably your ticket. Regarding how much better it will sound compared to your current setup... that's hard to say.

Oops, missed it. Thanks!

Thanks for all your hard work! That said, you may want to include some of the background info from comment 1: -Invented control starting point for neutral settings (setting to simulate the real stuff, without those invented parameters). But you can play with this values, it's up to you (no limits): Presence for No Presence amps should be zero (all the way counterclockwise). Exception Jazz Rivet (P: 50%). Eq bonus controls to noon (50%) for No Mid, No Bass, No Treble amps. Master parameter for no master amps to 100%. Note 1: Real amps with Volume means Gain in Helix. Volume in Helix is like a mixer to compensate final modeled output level (obviusly it doesn't exist in any of the real amps). Note 2 : To attenuate "Crossover Distorsion", the best parameter in Helix is "Bias", increase it from 6 to 8 as general rule just in case you need to mitigate it. Note 3: The default Line6 amp settings parametrs for Helix, when you open a modeled amp, are also a good starting point, normally they are close or exactly in concordance with this. Tip : double click in the parameter to come back to the default one. Note 4: For Pre Amps models in Helx, some power amp related parametrs (i.e presence in general ; or cut tone with vox amp )are not present, but they modeled also Master and Sag with PreAmps. All amps are modeled on the Input 1 (High). If you want simulate Input 2 (low), then use a gain block to take 6dB off the signal, and change the input impedance to something lower; somewhere between 68k and 150k.

FYI, I've copied this to a Google Docs Spreadsheet for those interested as well. Some of the conditional formatting works a little funky (i.e. if you change the BPM to 1.0, for some reason it won't color proplery, but ANY other value (besides 120 or 1) seems to color properly when there's a difference... Odd. Feel free to make a copy for yourself: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eITL0fiYdSba9DK-XVBp5ANkkQXsWR9oMxGyXzNVBWo/edit?usp=sharing

Thanks. Still odd about the line6 download link.