edstar1960

Just looking at the specs that are published on the knowledge base, I noticed that the 59 and 89 have the standard 43mm nut width but for some reason the 69 has a 41mm nut width, which according to Warmoth is a vintage size. Even Fender uses 42mm for its 60's and 50's CLASSIC PLAYER models. So just wondered why James Tyler decided to go with the narrowest width for the 69 - even 42mm would have suited more people. Anybody know why?

Thanks for the clarification. It is interesting that you only get the problem with your JTV69 into HD500 - but it's fine if you go direct and also your JTV59 does not have the problem. I have the problem just on the banjo sound on my JTV59 into the HD500 and going direct. Maybe we actually have different problems but just the same manifestation of an issue in terms of the popping noise.

Just a friendly reminder. If you are a JTV - HD500x - DTxx - L2/L3 user. Please vote for this bug to be fixed on Ideascale. Link in first post on thread. Thank you. :)

fw = firmware or flash level - in other words the software running on each of your JTVs and on the HD500. So if you connect up to Workbench and listen to output direct to Bose L1 then you don't get any popping - but if you introduce the HD500 into the chain then the popping starts? Is that correct understanding of your situation? Are you using normal workbench or workbench HD when you don't get the popping? Thanks

Thank you.

Thanks for the confirmation. Do you know what size the tuner holes were on the mighty mite neck and also what they were on your original JTV69 neck?

The switch on the front that has options LINE or AMP is only applicable to the 1/4 inch output jacks. It changes the signal output between AMP one that is suitable for input direct to an amp (instrument level) or LINE one that is suitable to go to a mixer (line level). The XLR outputs are always at slightly above mic level output. NB: The XLRs will only give you the L or the R stereo channel signal - you have to use both to capture both sides of the stereo output unless you have used something like a NOISE GATE at the end of your fx chain to sum your L+R channels to MONO. On the other hand the 1/4 inch jacks will sum the output to mono if you just use one of them - but if you use both then you do get the separate stereo channels in each. If you are going direct to a mixer (soundboard) then your SYSTEM settings should have OUTPUT MODE set to STUDIO/DIRECT - anything else will sound bad. So, double check that you have the HD500x output mode set to STUDIO/DIRECT. If you have got the correct output mode set then tweak your sound either at the soundboard using the EQ controls or add suitable EQ blocks to your patches to adjust to taste. Hope that helps.

It is not a simple answer. There are just too many variables that could be causing the problem and one of those could be a faulty HD500X. There is no quick way to get the sounds that we hear demo'd by the experts in the videos and recorded by experts. The unit has to be customised to our own set up and to our own style of playing to get the best out of it. Unfortunately, that means reading the ADVANCED GUIDE manual for HD500x, reading through the forums to understand the routing options and the input and output options - all of these need to be understood to identify what may be going wrong in your particular instance. I suggest taking a few simple steps first just to get a feel for it and try to identify what sounds best through your kit. Try this: 1) Start with a NEW blank patch 2) In System Options: Set INPUT 1 to GUITAR (I am assuming you are using a normal electric guitar and not a variax or JTV). set INPUT 2 to VARIAX. (You can try setting input 2 to SAME later once you have experimented with everything else to hear the difference it makes - it effectively adds a 6db boost to the input signal). 3) Set output mode to suit what your kit: Head + Cab then try STACK POWERAMP first, but if using a combo then try using COMBO POWERAMP. You can also try the front options because they allow you to tweak the EQ. Or try the STUDIO/DIRECT option if none of the others sound good to your ears. 4) Choose an AMP model for your patch. If you are running into a power amp section of your own amp then choose a PRE model to try first - they should sound better. If you don't like it - then try the FULL model which will include the power stage modelling but may provide a better sound for your setup. 5) Set the CAB to NO CAB !! If you are using your own cab then don't confuse issues by using the supplied CAB + MIC modelling on the HD500X - try this only after you have got used to the your own CAB and then experiment with these options to see if you prefer any. 6) Select a suitable REVERB FX at the end of the chain - you may want to lower the default mix level to ensure it is not over powering. 7) Review the MIXER block settings. The default is normally 0db for both L and R, and PANs set 100% L and R. That should be fine for a standard mono sound. 8) Take the output from either L or R jack to get the "summed to mono" total signal from the HD500x and feed that into your power amp section. 9) Check that the switch on the front of the HD500x next to the EXP pedal is set to LINE and not AMP. If you think you are feeding too hot a signal in with LINE then you can switch it to AMP, but start off with LINE. 10) Adjust the MASTER volume on the HD500x accordingly - the recommendation is to use it at full - but sometimes a lower level sounds better. 11) Try the simple patch setup in the different output modes to see what sounds best to you. Stick with the one that sounds best and tweak the patch further by adjusting the amp model controls. 12) Once you are almost at the sound you want, you may want to consider tweaking the AMP DEEP EDITING PARAMETERS to tweak the sound some more - these are found on the AMP screens - and its MASTER VOL, SAG, BIAS and BIAS X that will yield interesting results for tweaking the sound. 13) If it is still not to your liking then look at introducing an EQ block at the end of the fx chain to fine tune things - remove any nasty sounds and boost or enhance the desired sound 14) Once amp is about right - then look at introducing other fx - but get the amp sound right first. NB: You may find that you don't like using the power amp stage of your amp - s you can try using the HD500x in front of the amp like a standard fx pedal - or you can try the 4 cable method - or you can look at using an FRFR amp for use with the HD500x - there are lots of possibilities! But see if you can get what you like out of your current set up first. Useful links: 1) HD500x ADVANCED GUIDE (from L6 MANUALS DOWNLOADS) : here is the link: http://line6.com/support/manuals/podhd500x 2) meabobbos guide: http://foobazaar.com/podhd/toneGuide/ 3) perapera's routing thread: http://line6.com/support/topic/2033-pod-hd-500-500x-new-routing-schematics/?hl=routing 4) hurghanicos discussion on not using default INPUT settings (avoid INPUT 2 set to SAME): http://line6.com/support/topic/4927-how-has-greatly-improved-my-use-of-the-hd500/ Finally - if you need further help and assistance - just open up a thread and ask - there are plenty of really nice helpful people on this forum who are happy to share their advice and expertise. Good luck in finding your tone and getting the most out of your HD500x!

I have similar problems every time I re-calibrate my HD500 after a fw update - very frustrating and I would re-calibrate several times trying to get the 0 and 255 values. Initially I tried my best to push down hard at both extremes to try to get the 0 minimum and 255 maximum values - but the last time I re-calibrated I gently moved the pedal to both extremes with my foot and di not press hard and that seemed to do the trick.

Are you taking both L and R XLRs to the presonus OR are you just using one of the outputs? What have you got your INPUT 1 and INPUT 2 settings set to? What are your MIXER block settings on the HD500x?

I have given this a try. I set up a new patch on my HD500 via HD Edit as per your directions. I used my JTV59 (fw1.9) into HD500 (fw 2.2) into DT25 combo (on latest fw). I had all control knobs on the DT25 for both channels all turned fully anti clockwise to ensure none of them were over riding any settings from the HD500 - I only moved the DT25 MASTER to generate output volume. First impression was that the sound was still too much like an electric - but then I tweaked back the MASTER vol on the pod to about 11 o'clock, and set the MASTER on the DT25 to about 12 o'clock, and also rolled off the volume on my JTV to about 7 rather than max. Then I started to hear some more of the acoustic qualities coming through. I will need to play with it some more and maybe use some EQ blocks to see if I can get a band level acoustic type sound from the DT25. Thanks again for the tip and the advice.

Thanks very much for your input and sharing your experience and opinion.

Sorry to hear that you are having such bad problems with your JTV69. I hope you do manage to get it resolved and that Line 6 will assist you in that. It is interesting that you say the problem does not manifest itself when you are connected direct to Workbench. How are you monitoring the sound when connected direct? Also - what fw levels are your JTV69 and JTV59? What fw level is your HD500 at ? Does the popping happen with all patches on your HD500 or only on some?

I know from the old forum several people reported replacing their stock necks with strat necks - some were warmoth custom necks. They did say that one neck screw hole was different and that needed to be drilled to get the strat neck on - but nobody mentioned any sanding or other necessary alterations. I am considering getting a 69 as there are some really good offers on at the moment (30% cheaper than standard price and brand new - not B stock). The main benefit being the ability to have my own preferred neck put on. But - I would want to make sure I get exactly the right measurements before placing an order at Warmoth or buying a finished neck from somewhere else.

Did you raise a support ticket and ask Line 6 directly? They must be able to source single piezo replacements to fix any problem guitars that get returned. They would be able to tell you if they can do it for you and at what cost or where you can obtain your own replacement to do the repair yourself. But I agree, it is odd that they are not shown as options in the SHOP menu - the JTVs are a couple of years old now so it is possible some that have been heavily used may need new piezos.

I know several people have reported that a standard strat neck will fit on a JTV69 body and can be used as a replacement. I assume that the JTV69 machine heads will be transferrable to standard strat neck but I do know you can get different machine head hole sizes. Have the exact specs for the JTV69 neck been published anywhere? (eg: all the measurements you would need to give to Warmoth to build a neck for you; nut width, neck pocket width and depth, machine head hole size etc). I did not find anything on the Knowledge base. PS: Does anyone know if a Variax 700 neck is a direct replacement for a JTV69 neck? Thanks in advance.

I am going to give it a try later and see how I get on .... I will report back ...

LOL - yes of course - what I meant was, could it be replaced by a standard strat trem bridge or one of the many strat clone options or one of the graph tech alternatives for a strat? Or is it so different that you can only use the Tyler 69 bridge/trem ?

Please try again - I cut and pasted it in once more from the original and it should be OK now. Actually - you may need to wait a little while because when I tested it, I got a message on the webpage that ideascale was being updated and was currently closed for maintenance.

Ooops! Sorry my mistake. Is the 69 a standard tremolo type bridge or is it another Tyler custom part?

Well - if your JTV piezo's ever need replacing - in the absence of individual piezo replacements perhaps that is the time to consider this option: http://www.graphtech.com/products/product-detail/pn-8593-c0-ghost-loaded-resomax-nw1-wraparound-bridge---chrome

I found your tone using this link: http://line6.com/customtone/profile/diggerbarnz

Thanks for the update. So you are saying that you have cured the "popping" issue with a custom built patch?

Original thread for background: http://line6.com/support/topic/3575-dream-rig-l3t-speaker-mode-not-saved-in-patchl/ Quoted from original thread: Posted 28 January 2014 - 02:28 PM Got a reply to my ticket, acknowledging a bug that the DT won't pass through data to the L3t, so speaker mode can't be saved with my configuration. However, I got the unsatisfactory response that I have to log it on ideascale. Surely the purpose of ideascale is for product enhancements rather than bug fixes? Anyway, the idea is here if anyone would like to vote ;) http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Allow-L3t-speaker-mode-save-when-L6-linked-to-DT-amp/579806-23508 Please vote on Ideascale for the bug to be fixed. Thank you.

Just interested - has any JTV59 owners swapped their piezo's out for Graph Tech Ghost saddles? Or has anyone swapped out the entire JTV59 bridge for one of these: Ebay advert: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Graph-Tech-Ghost-loaded-Resomax-NW1-Wraparound-Bridge-Chrome-/300948111993?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item4611e7c279 Graph Tech product details: http://www.graphtech.com/products/product-detail/pn-8593-c0-ghost-loaded-resomax-nw1-wraparound-bridge---chrome