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  1. I had the thought of using a MIDI controller, but I would really need something with scribble strips. My live patches are pretty much anything from 6-8 snapshots for each song, anywhere from 4-6 songs in a set. While there are some overlaps, they all have special snapshots per song for varying parts. It would just get confusing to try and remember what's what without a label.
  2. Hey, all. So I've recently been using my Helix for my live rig, with one output going to a power amp for my stage volume, and another output with an IR on it for my in ear monitors. The more I've been using this kind of rig, the more I'm worried somebody is going to spill a beer on my Helix, step on it, etc. I was thinking about getting a Helix Control to use on the downstage edge, and leaving the Helix itself upstage behind my amp. Are there any complications with using the Control and the Floor at the same time, or will the Control only work with the Helix Rack?
  3. Amp modeling is only to be used when using a real amp is not practical, rare as those occasions may be. Simulated amps and cabs are never as good as the real thing, no matter what the manufacturer claims. amp modeling is mostly a sales gimmick and doesn't serve much purpose in the real world. No one uses amp modeling for live performance. My reaction to these statements: Dude needs to get with the 21st century, for real.
  4. I had the same issue. I could push down, but my rotary function crapped out. Definitely seems like L6 got a bad batch or straight up cheaped out on these joystick units.
  5. You can't get the exact thing, but you can get fairly close with combining drives + EQ. Matt of Rosetta and Atomium Amps did a great technical writeup of the HM-2, which you can use to decide which models to use. FWIW, I got fairly close with the Stupor OD followed by the 10 band graphic with 1K almost dimed. Play around and see what works best for you
  6. +1 to a hum eliminator. I had the exact same problem, and an isolation transformer fixed it. I picked up the Behringer version for something like $20, and it worked perfectly.
  7. As brue58ski said above me, it doesn't hurt to try. I have a hardware bass DI from MXR which is fairly similar to the Darkglass, and it actually gives a pretty useable super-clean tone. A very fender-y type tonestack feel, but with pretty much no drive. I can only assume the darkglass would be able to achieve the same result
  8. Just go to a new patch and save over the patch you're trying to clear without changing anything
  9. Not really. Hendrix used amps like the 1200s and other tube amps, while the late-era, but pre-Fender Sunn stuff was all solid state. Theyre known for being super powerful and having a unique transistor-y distortion, which when used outside of the stoner-y genres of heavy music, is arguably pretty bad.
  10. Sunn and Big Bottom amps, as well as the darkglass pedal = !!!!!!
  11. A tip I've found to work in the past with touchy tuners is to roll down your guitars tone knob, if it has one. The fewer harmonics the tuner is getting at it's input, the more accurate it is to the strings fundamental.
  12. I think that'd be hard to accomplish due to the fact that each mix will have different EQ needs. I would treat a shimmery clean much differently than a ballz-to-the-wall metal tone.
  13. Theyre not in the editor, or any kind of global settings. They seemed to just be wiped out, entirely. All of the block and signal paths were there, but none of the changes that go from snap to snap
  14. I have-ish. I restored it to manual recall, as that's how I had it prior to the update, but as full rows of snaps, no stomps.
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