WickedFinger

Interesting stuff. I guess I never noticed it because the whammy in the Helix is not to my liking, sounding certainly like an older model Whammy but nothing close to the newest V model version. God I miss that pedal, seriously might have to get another one. I hate the glitch burble of bad tracking on such units and octave pedals. Everything new is polyphonic tracking, I am wondering if they can go that far on the Helix without sucking up too much DSP. Anyway, easy thing to loop out to other pedals which is what I like about the Helix and unlike the POD thing it actually works well. I get what you are saying about the phase thing. I think it was that guy "meambobbo" on the POD HD who wrote an advanced guide how that unit would alter the tone just by dropping in blocks of like the EQ without using them must have been a phase thing. I wonder if my using a BBE unit may correct that. I also have in my overstock gear a new GSP1101 and I am pondering using a couple of the amazing clean tube preamps it has to sort of do my Mic Tube Preamp trick but have the full capability of the GSP creating it. Wondering if that would really bring a real tube like enhancement as those couple models in that unit were the deal for me before I got the Helix. Wondering how i can rig it up. I was thinking a send out to the 1101, grab the clean tube model, out the main and back to the Helix on a return and place it before the Helix amp model for starters anyway. Opens up a whole mess of new config ideas in my brain. I was going to try and sell the GSP 1101 as I had just paid my final payment when I decided to grab a Helix on a great payment deal. If I sell it I lose bucks on a brand new unit but if I can access those clean tube models I love it might be an expensive add on but I have it so what the hey? Any config ideas you guys have?

Sorry, I thought you were talking about tracking issues and where to place them. I am not sure I understand the phase thing.

I Know that Mission makes an EP-1 L6 pedal and new model they just came out with that has a toe switch just for the Helix. I have a white Chris Brodrick EP-1 and I am confused if I can use it on the Helix. I asked Line 6 and they said it was compatible but as I understand the EP-1 is a TRS wired pedal and the Helix is a TS, does anyone know it will just compensate and use the TS points or it just does not work????

From what I have seen on most octave and harmonizer effects, Guitar pedal type octave stuff seems to track better up front, while more rack mount type harmonizers can be placed after the amp gain stage. You sort of have to try and see but guitar pedal types have always glitched and burbled like crazy unless they have a clean signal to process. The traditional Whammy (V) i is now polyphonic unlike the prior versions and it can actually work pretty well front or further back but when I used to use the harmonizer modes on it I put it up front which is Digitech recommended to me as well. I find the simple pitch and dual pitch to do pretty well in the Helix but in front of the amp models, you can run some OD or dirt into them but they do not sound good for me after the amp. I really never liked harmonizers and pitch shifters which required a key and scale maintain, One of the things I loved about the Whammy V was that you had the freedom to play anything and it would simply harmonize and interval to whatever note you played. The 5th +/- and 8va's on the Whammy V track amazing. I miss that pedal, might have to get another one and loop it in. The rack type higher end harmonizers can track distorted signals pretty good but all such unit blocks in the Helix are not polyphonic so any attempt at chords will glitch out, exceptions are the Whammy set a half step for like Eb it seems to do pretty well tracking chords, but it is not a polyphonic pedal in the Helix.

I offer another tip I use which I just love and have been using them for ages through various version and upgrades. BBE Sonic Maximizer, now before someone poo poos on this and claims they can do the same with a para EQ or whatnot, no you can't. This puppy has been extensively analyzed and it does what BBE says it does. The issue of correcting the phase on the outputs makes all the difference and although with the process enhancement of the BBE circuit there is a slight bump at 50HZ and 5KHz but the secret of using these is thus: 1.) Do run this as it were an "effect" pedal it is a phase correcting device and the levels should never really be more that 12:00. The phase correction takes place at any level so that benefit is always there. So the relative level of how much process you like is up to you. 2.) You have to get the unit as close to the final power amplification stage as possible. Nothing after it is the key. 3.) This is more of live sound enhancement device and does not work on record playback. You may get some sparkle and presence and some low end punch on recordings but the phase time lag correction thing only takes place using the unit on live sound. I use these units extensively and if they are not on or out of chain the difference is steadfast not as good. There has never been a A/B of showing people my rig when they did not want to go out and get one after hearing the difference of a properly used BBE. It will add punch, clarity, presence and a cleaner more defined pleasing overall sound quality by correcting the basic physics design issue of speakers producing sound, some frequencies reach our ear at different times as a result of physics this unit corrects that time lag phase and just sounds better to the ear. I swear by them myself. I use an XLR unit on my main XLR Helix outs before they go into an XLR input power amp. I have two other instrument level units I use on some external pedals and units, like my Mel9 which makes it come alive as well as my Trio drum unit which punches the kick drum cleaner and the symbols have that high end clean slight tisssss. I also have a standby unit in case I want to use the 1/4" outs on my Helix before they go into my little Mackie mixer on the way to the FRFR rig. Anyway, I dig them and I can say I will never not have one in my rig. The bands general PA mix can be greatly improved using one on the house sound. Again using the unit in moderation at settings no more than 12:00 and in the right place in the sound chain. It's like anything else you can use it badly and not like the result, like someone adjusting an EQ in a bad way. The little guitar model is OK and has the circuit but it allows for misplacing of the unit and not an optimal usage thing. The rack stereo units are the best and really at $100 for the lower share knobs stereo unit it is the best $100 I have ever spent on my rig. Guitar Player awarded it one of the best inventions of recent times and also said it will be the best $100 you ever spend. The more pro XLR dual control model is the flagship and costs more but I love the puppy.

Great tips, I think this is going to really help expand everyone's sense of programming. Most I have read I agree w 100% so it is interesting we all seem to be headed in the same direction. I do wish some of the really talented preset builders would try and write up an advanced user guide. Sort of what that guy "meambobbo" did for the HD POD, he had great info on programming that puppy. Regarding headphones, despite I use high end ByerDynamic 770s (I think) I never get a really good sound of headphones, always a slight breakup even at lower volumes and adjusting to where the live sound is not good. Checking into impedance issues and how to properly match headphones to source it seems there is an audiophile suggestion that 8x the source impedance is a good match. The Helix runs a really low 12 ohm headphone impedance which you will never find that low on headphones. So mine should be a great match so I know that is not a source of the issue. Does anyone else think using headphones on a more dedicated source feed sounds better? I thnk maybe impedance issues are the reason why so many have terse differences in setting up preset tones. although to be honest I do not think you will ever really get the sort of sound live you do in cans from the mere issue of moving air and interactions with the speakers. I would be happy with no clipping myself. Anyway 2 cents. I've been looking at some wireless ones which have a xmit block using low impedance wondering if anyone has tried these as I would love to be free of that headphone cable. Seem like decent quality http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/RS165 Sennheiser RS 165's they do not offer the impedance on these but the lesser cheaper model is 64 ohms, which is not relevant so much to the Helix as the signal is being transmitted but one needs low impedance for fidelity. I found it helps considerably to farm out the headphone monitoring to a mixer or somethings else. I use a small Mackie mixer which I use to convert any of my external instrument unbalanced feeds to balanced TRS/XLR for my FRFR rig. I prefer running XLR outs and whenever I can as my power amp is XLR and I cannot say it sounds "better" to the point of a must do, but I do think according to specs that balanced XLR/TRS affords a cleaner more pure signal with no degrade.

I do hope others will offer some cool things they have learned. Pretty much the reason why I came to this forum to learn more about the programming of advanced users. We could keep all these things to ourselves but really is that helping anyone or helping the Helix get the rep it deserves?

One might ask why? Are you producing frequency spectrum outside the guitar range? A "full mix"? Are you suggesting the issue is running a full band mix through guitar cabs? No one has suggested nor would suggest that. No one is saying that you cannot run the signal into PA FRFR speakers for bigger halls or rooms just that if you have high end guitar speakers the Helix sounds very good through them as well as it sounds good in FRFR. I use both and the sound is amazingly rich and full. The guitar cab sounds more like a real amp which is why I use mine. Everyone should do what they like or prefer but suggesting FRFR sort of moot points all those trying 4CM things with their amp and speakers. If you have low end guitar speakers that color everything even a 4CM thing is not going to get anywhere near the best sound. But with the array or great high efficiency higher wattage guitar speakers these days the sound coming out of the Helix is very powerful and sounds as good or better than any amp I have ever used. I love my 15" FRFR EV rig but still dig the power and punch of that modified 4x12.

Being a long student and scholar of history and a huge fan of reality: Believing in things has nothing to do with them being grounded in reality and physically real. The religious across the spectrum are the first ones to try and act as if science is a belief or requires you to accept it, it exists in contrast to whatever often delusional aspect of psychology that spins in one's mind. Think what you will, believe what you will, everything in human nature is a matter of your personal genetic markers. Nothing more, nothing less, born a with genius potential or retarded, we all are what we are and whether or not you become obsessed with some psychic communication with your imaginary friend does not give anyone the right to castigate science or non believers because they are not wired that way. There have been infinite religions and 10,000 gods in the human epic, the only thing that is common amount all of them is that their believers were utterly certain they were the one and only truth and light. Those who are convinced any religion or belief construction can "save" the world or admit them to disney land after they die is as mistaken now, as they have been then. The dumbing down of our educational system towards a basis of "faith" and "belief" ideology merely assures when we need science and brilliant persons to save is from a dire crisis, they will be busy praying or lighting candles. Now let's get back to programming the Helix and playing the music we consider a gift.

Mid 80s actually, we cannot all be young and dense as that seems to erode with time, hopefully anyway. I just tested the Helix to my external Gold Pitch Black and it seemed to be on pitch pretty much as the Pitch Black but yeah, a lot of drift and instability maybe really only for quick live tune checks. Bless anyone trying to set intonation using it, best of luck. First time I actually kicked it on myself. I never had a notion to use it as a main tuner anyway.

Been thinking about this for a while, how great it would be to offer some tips and tricks on programming HELIX presets to help them sound better and improve tones, and how delightfully wonderful to have things in the same thread to find. While I am not an established veteran of the HELIX "yet", I have discovered a few things that might be useful to others in this rather infinite magic forest of param variability regarding what I consider the best inventive progress in amp modeling since the whole ballgame began. So please anyone who would like to offer some idea or something they discovered which makes things sound better please add to the list or perhaps extend upon an idea to further flush out its potential. I have long wanted to find and read of such advanced user tips and wish Freman and others who sell presets, while not giving away the farm might develop a better advanced user programming guide of tips for the HELIX. SO offer up what you think might be of use, it does not matter if others know of it already, I guarantee there are many who will not have known of it: So to start off I offer a few things I learned or perhaps heard of someone else doing, so this is not about taking credit for anything as I have no idea of all the things discussed here on the forum or even in videos regarding the mighty HELIX. 1.) Make use of the MIC section PREAMP model of the Studio Tube Preamp model. Set the model to line sensitivity or "impedance" put the level of this on 10 and the gain right around 4.0. You can put this block in front of clean or dirt amp models which imparts a rather subtle but cool tube-ish enhancement model to make things sound a little more "not" digital or sterile. I find it extremely good after a high gain amp to increase and enhance the quality of the gain structure and intensity. I often place the "after" block before any separate speaker IR block but there is no notion it does not help after a full amp as well. Anyway cool trick I have taken to using and I often assign a switch to both Studio Preamps on merge/"multiple" to either shut both on or off or switch from one to the other. 2.) While not an unknown or surprise finding, using the Cali EQ block which is really Mesa's V EQ curve from their amps makes any high gain amp model sound so much better by notching the lower mid 750hz and bringing up the lows and highs in a V shape. One should not boost or cut too much but it for sure makes a high gain sound better and often on my cleaner models I like the tone balance. Of course EQ is always a matter of personal taste and case of point use but Mesa puts this V Graphic EQ on all their main amps as it just sounds wicked cool. Note:If you use the post Studio Tube Preamp #1 trick above, I suggest putting the Cali V EQ after the Tube preamp model as it is easily over driven which may not be a good sound for you. When I use the Studio Tube thing I just want a subtle tube quality into the sound structure. 3.) I find it essential for me when I run an external effects loop I need to have a NR gate block on after the loop return which keeps things quiet even though I use several high end external pedals. Of course slapping in a basic NR gate block after any hissy amp shunts off that annoying hiss without seeming to effect the overall sound dynamic or attack. I tend to use the stock default settings but others my have some better ideas for param adjustments. So I hope this prompts the witty higher end users to toss a few ideas and tips which could get quite insightful.

I still do not have a clear idea what that Flash Memory file is for or if we are to make use of it and how. I think it has confused a whole lot of users besides me. I tried to down load that thing as well before someone slapped me to look at the title header on the left. Still not sure why it is there or what we are supposed to do with it if anything. Seems like the main 2.01 takes care of it. Remember campers the globals must be reset as per the instruction sheet on 2.01. I notice many missed that part.

I always use full amp models either as the one model or the amp with a separate cab or IR, always sounds the best. I have tried using preamp models but not as full and the depth of the power amp modeling. You can artfully use preamp models as boost into other models. One of my programming tips is to add in a MIC tube preamp model set to line impedance full at 10 and the gain around 4 to be clean but imparts some tube modeling artifact chime (not noise) to any amp model, but recommend one try this on your next preset design. Just adds a little "tubish" goodness to the tone. An easy miss as who would look at the MIC preamp model when designing a preset. I ran across it from someone and it was a damn good tip. I pass it on to those who read. My thoughts on using preamp models were the aspect of using a tube power amp which is going to add its own response characteristic into the sound. I recommend solid state power amps, there are a lot of choices and it is easy to get just too many watts. You have to make sure your ohms out are working with the speakers you are using and the over all RMS watts is comparable to the speaker combined (series/parallel) cab RMS. Chap above is right about V30s, loved them with my prior tube head but with the modeler, have to go more high end if you want the best sound. I reloaded my 4x12 cab that had V30s to a hard stereo wired load with Eminence Man O War 12s which are 120watt speakers and man do they sound good. I also have a pair of EV 15" FRFR which part of the easier mode of them is they are self powered with a Class D 400 watt internal each. Not a fan of the POD 4CM thing myself, depends on the speaker config the amp has but in general lower end guitar speakers just do not do well. The Helix is a different animal then what most of use experienced with the POD so the use of good speakers or FRFR became even more important. As far as a power amp, there are a lot of options out there and almost none are bad choices as theory wise they just need to reproduce what they are given. So asking about tube power amps, I think Line 6 would agree you do not need one. The Helix kicks major "t rump" no matter what you do, thoughts are just on what might be more optimal. Like I mentioned it is easy to get too many watts in a power amp these days, the speakers have to be able to handle it. My SLA-1 is like 100 watts a side into each a pair of Eminence rated combined at 240watts ea side. I seldom run the amp up more than half outside a band thing, And they can reproduce well what is thrown at them. They can do from 70Hz to 5.5kHz before starting their roll off slope so they are well able to range the guitar spectrum. I like them the best on my rigs. The 15" EV's are massive but really do not need all that low end for the guitar I had them for my guitar synth which was a different animal. The guitar also does not manifest ultra high end so all that headroom is nice but just not being used. I also prefer the single 12" for more punch and power not having the sound split in a cross over circuit. What is important for me in my rigs is the wattage headroom, the clarity and ability to generate lows and a spectrum of sound. Those days of using low wattage guitar amps for clipping and no bass just do not do well with a modeler.

I suppose in a pinch you can use it to at least get in proper pitch and tune the strings to each other. Personally I have a gold and a black Korg PitchBlack tuner and one of my Les Paul's has a G Force. I have never really been happy with the tuner software in any modeler or multi unit I have owned. For shear accuracy and being true bypass I really like the Korgs, I use them for all my intonation set up work. They have strobe modes as well, maybe not as good as Peterson but then what is really. I think we get lazy with all the tech at hand. I remember when I started playing as kid there were no tuners and no one was certain they were in pitch you just tuned to each other. Ever try to tune a guitar with one of those old pitch pipes? Kill me now. Modern tech has given us so many tuners these days and all of them are pretty damn good, never hurts to hear the notes harmonize into the pitch on different strings and you know the guitar is dead on. No one should try and do set up work with a not so great tuner. Speaking Helix wise, I have never used the tuner function, I always have one of my Korgs in the loop.

Be hard pressed to find a bad power amp these days tube or not. While it would seems that a tube power amp might be cool, I changed my tune on that after some research as one does not really want the power amp tubes adding their "reactence" to the component modeling which already takes into account the power amp section. You can ask L6 but I think they suggest you do not use a tube power amp for best possible modeling results. You could just use preamp models but in general I think the full amp sounds better. In my experience w modeler units just about any basic power amp works just fine I have used a few different models. Right now I like my ART SLA-1 it does the job very well, clean, quiet, has its own cooling fan, perfect wattage for my main cab rig. Studio quality monitor amp and did not kill on the cost, are there better ones, sure, but is it really adding much if anything to the sound quality for the expense? I also have some class D powered EV 15"'s so I have a range of FRFR and high wattage guitar speakers. A lot of stuff is Class D these days, seems OK, huge power capability in a small amplifier sound wise I cannot really tell a difference. Only power amp I was not real happy with was a Behringer Nuke, it is Class D got that as a low cost get in a hurry fix, was OK but I am not a big fan of that brand, The SLA-1 just so much a better amp. Tube power amps are nice but not sure they are really needed with what the Helix can do. Besides having to buy tubes again and hope the "matched set" does not have bad ones, plus many tube power amps have preamp tubes in them as well and those are a often bad despite claims of binned and tested. Personally I am glad to not have to deal with them anymore and the maintenance.

Well, been at this for a good month now, tried all sorts of user "presets" which range from complete programming crap to just unusable. Why so many of these terrible things are being loaded into the custom tone section is beyond me, every one I have tried either needs almost a start over edit or they are just not worth the trouble. Really have just deleted them all after about 30 secs if that long. One cat had a couple nice Pagey ones I kept and mod'ed but in general I will not be wasting my time with the custom tone section again. Then I started listening to Doctor Freman's work, and this guy, wow, he has a gift, or Helix has a gift. From what I have heard so far not only are these worth the money they save me hundreds of hours of programming sweats. I thought I was coming up with some cool well thought out stuff but this guy, he is like what "meambobbo" was to the HD POD writing his own user manual on programming, but all things considered Mr. Freman is a bloody genius! I am waiting on payday to get this pack. 175, really, it's taken me a month to get 20 good personal cool ones. He should consider writing his own user manual with the tips and understandings he has come up with. From just a few I have heard even if the rest are are mediocre still well worth the price for such well thought out and tweaked presets. God of the Helix! Line 6 you should be paying this guy to load in the factory presets!!!

I have both as well and there is no bad. Just saying everyone does not need to run out and buy FRFR rigs if you have decent high end guitar speakers, the better they are the better the Helix amp tones sound. I never recommend cheese speakers, that is what IRs are for to mimic all sorts of speakers and cabs for just tone modeling. I have never been happy with stock loaded cabs myself. Full range is great for keyboard or guitar synth ranges, in fact it is a necessity as they are producing sonic spectrum beyond the high and low ranges of guitar. Since the guitar cannot produce tones beyond the typical sonic range of a quality guitar speaker then case in point the FRFR rig has a whole lot of sonic headroom that will just not be used. I am not sure the logic argument of having that extended range headroom makes any difference in the sound when it is not made use of. By the time you EQ, high/low cut and speaker IR your tone it is right in the niche and range of good guitar speakers. Personally I prefer the more unified sound and punch of a nice cab. When I was running my GR-55 synth rig, FRFR was a must as the guitar speakers could not reproduce the sonic range as well. As always everyone has to make the best of what they have or make good decisions in buying gear. My FRFR EV rig was about a $1000, I took a quality made 4x12 I had and loaded it with Eminence 120watters, and rewired it for less than half that. Kicks major "insert your censored word here".

Everyone's an idiot, that is just a species trait. Nice to know your experience sets the paradigm for all audiences and experiences as well as erasing counter intuitive issues. Even my basic tone deaf wife having little to no musical skill can recognize what sounds good and what sucks. You cannot judge the world on the acts and behaviors of the worse morons. Let's face it genius is a rare trait not a majority, how many general populace to one Einstein? I work on my tone as it pleases me to do so, and even if every monkey on the planet was deaf it would not relegate me to a sonic world of crap. I have experienced many times how audience listeners picked up on nice tones and sounds, something pleasing to the ear is like shiny objects to apes.

i have to somewhat disagree as to the musical hearing ignorance of the general public. Some have stated they do not care about tone, while it is certainly true they have no idea what different guitar or amps sound like or what they are or how the sound is created, but, they really do know what sounds like crap and you are kidding yourself if you think they do not get what sounds good and what sounds bad. Heads turn when a cool tone comes up or something that sounds really pleasing verses some god awful affront to the ears. They are of course exceptions as I do not know how kids like mine have a clue what might sound good as their paradigm of music is really not music but in general people get what sounds good what what sounds crappy.

Problem for me is just getting too many options to remember, like if you program 8 snapshots on a preset and try to label them, get about three fully loaded snapshot presets fully loaded up and I am lucky to remember what I am doing anymore. I find I get so involved programming and experimenting I seldom just play and work on that aspect of improvisation which is my central love of the guitar. I find just programming some well thought out presets with stomp box mode on/off does just fine and is very workable. If I need different array of effects I just copy the preset and change that around or a different amp model config. Snap shots are great for mapping out complex songs that require instant multiple footswitch or param changes. For me I find having another preset on deck is just as easy for me as snapshots within the same preset and I still have stomp box mode as well. I find in general keeping things simple like stomp box mode works for me as a basis. You can do so much with switch assigns as well and proper labeling. For example instead of using a snap shot I might have one type of reverb on and when I hit the footswitch it turns that reverb off and goes to another one. You can also program param changes. Very cool options on this puppy.

The thing is that FRFR sounds great no complaints just the point that high end guitar speakers can kick major lollipop (a s s) on the tone as well. There is no bad side with the Helix. As far as a guitar cab not being heard or directional and giving way to a PA set up. Speakers by nature are directional. Standing off from anything is diminished sound and a PA can sound reverbish and distant in the same manner as guitar cabs. As always anyone should use what they want, like or have, which has been my argument about telling everyone they have to get FRFR monitor class speakers for the best sound. You do not and those pipping a 4CM thing into amp amp using its power amp and speakers is not going to get a bad sound. As I recommend higher-end, more efficient, wattage capable guitar speakers do very well. And personally I like them as a more full unified intact sound which makes an "amp" sound like an amp. I get touring downsizing simple rig config thing but just saying what is the ultimate tone? One can easily have that guitar speaker thing going and farm out to the PA for additional volume and reach while having the tone optimized. So it all works and I get the issue of the FRFR having a wide headroom of response but as I said when you get done IR curving and EQ cutting the signal down for use you are well within the range of high end guitar speakers plus the added issue you are not splitting the sound through crossovers. Which is not to say a PA rig setup cannot be optimized to sound very good, it is after all the Helix. Just saying the logic of having to use full range is perhaps not so solid an argument as one might argue. Although getting others to see beyond just insulting me to the point of logic you are IR'ing and Eq cutting the response before it gets to the FRFR speaker(s) so what is the point of needing frequency spectrum out what you are producing? Comparisons always down guitar speakers as if all there is, is the low wattage low efficiency classic old stuff. True they all have a "roll off" and a roll off for a reason, that is all the guitar produces in range! And the more high end speakers have a wider response, sensitivity and headroom than cheapy ones. Big difference.

I can appreciate all that but merely offering usage with a modeler like the Helix, I get better sound using high end guitar speakers and not those found in most cabinets. For most they know nothing of custom loading a guitar cab with better speakers they deal in terms of the stockers, that is not the guitar speaker I am speaking. Most IRs are done using those cabs with often low end speakers so if one wants to get those sounds that is what IRs do. FRFR presents the issue that they produce a greater spectrum of frequencies than the guitar is capable and when you get done using a speaker IR and various low or high cuts you are shaving the signal down to exactly the range of a quality high end guitar speaker, there is nothing for the added response of the full range to reproduce is my point. I am not talking about using guitar amps and speaker cabs and how to record them but what to use with a modeler and why the need for full range speakers and their extended range...

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Some will get the issue and the argument and some will just remain stupid. I do love the personal attacks which can only mean a reflection of your own egoism and your sense of inadequacy of making an argument so you get personal rather than deal with the discussion of facts. How very Trumpish of you. Does not have a freakin' thing to do with me in any way shape or form simply a discussion of using IRs to guitar curve response into a full range system which reproduces much more spectrum than the guitar is capable. Sorry some of you cannot get the premise. Please hate me because I am pretty. Simple question why use full range speakers on an amp modeler unit as opposed to using high end guitar speakers? Can you pose a discussion or just refute science?