toobhed

Thank you phil_m, that's a pro tip and I can find use for both options. Cheers!

I want to hit the toe switch to engage the wah and boost simultaneously. I know the foot switches can do this, but when I attempt to assign exp1 toe switch, it also is using the position of the expression pedal to engage the boost. So when I hit the toe switch, the wah and boost come on, but then as I rock the position on exp1, it disengages the boos at whatever position is set in the bypass menu. I want it to ignore position and only activate with the toe switch. I'm using an eq to create the boost. Thanks

I am trying to use my MD20 as a mixer for a livestream. I have the driver installed, using OSB I can get audio from the MD20 but it appears only 1st two channels, not the stereo mix. Anyone know if there is a setting to only output the stereo bus via USB to pc?

Just found this thread searching for the answer. I hope they fix this.

Where is Don't Force for Model? I see that for tuning, tone and volume, but Variax Model only changes models, no option for don't force. Is it somewhere else?

I am trying to setup Variax settings for the Tone knob so it can be used for parameter control. But I don't want to force a Variax guitar model with the patch. Is there an option for this?

I set the Variax tone control to change amp gain and channel volume. It is a great way to clean up the sound and rolling up the gain to full shred is a sweet effect that the volume knob alone can't quite do. However, the tone knob's effect on the guitar is a little wonky. I have it set to 10 and tone knob locked so that it should not affect the "tone" of the guitar. This is sort of true. But if I change pickups, the tone knob has an effect on the guitar tone as well as changing the parameters I set. So if I rolled off the tone knob intending to only change parameters, then switch pickups, the tone of the guitar gets muddy as if I rolled off the tone. I have to put the knob to full, switch pickups back and fourth and then the tone knob only affects the parameters. Not a very good real-world use. Am I missing something? Here are the settings I use. Global: Variax Settings Lester-1 Global Variax Model Don't Force Guitar Variax Volume Knob 10.0 Global Variax Tone Knob Tone Knob Global Variax Lock Control Don't Force Global Variax Tuning

Well, I can't seem to get this behavior. Every time I customize the color of the footswitch it overwrites the previous setting. I created two 0db gain blocks, set one to on and one to off. I selected the on block, assigned footswitch and color. Then I went to the off block and did the same thing. Both blocks change states when the footswitch is pressed, but it seems that changing the color on either block will cause the switch to use only that color. Is this the method you use?

My goal is to create an A/B switch for Clean/Crunch tones. I would like to have the switch set to red on crunch and blue on clean. So far I am only able to assign one color for the first state, and then color is not lit for the second state. With more features come more for the wish list.

I got a shock while using the Line6 StageScape mixer with my HD500X JTV rig. It happened when enabling phantom power on the mixer.

I sometimes plug in the 1/4 output to my tuner without disconnecting the VDI, so while I am tuning, both outputs are active. I read in another thread this could potentially overload the circuit and could damage the board. Any truth to this? (JTV-59)

I have the replacement battery holder. The problem is removing the old one. There is one cable that snakes through the control cavity to the main board. I can disconnect it from the main board and verified the new box fixes the problem by hooking it up. So back to my question. The part circled on the picture is where the cable attaches to the battery holder. that cable snakes through the control cavity, but I can't snake it through without removing some other connectors and they look tricky too. Is the part circled a connector or is it permanently affixed to the battery holder?

I have the new battery holder, looking to install it, but I can't tell if this is a connector that can be removed or if I have to snake the cable through the cavity. Check out this post.

If you know who to disconnect this connector, please let me know. I must have a locking tab or release, it does not want to pull straight off. I can't figure it out. Thanks

I came here with a very similar problem and see this post at the top of the list...wow. Helping my father in law with his Variaxe. His will not power on with a battery. Ordered new battery and charged it, still not powering on or indicating LED status. Tried the battery from my Variaxe, same results. Plugged the guitar into HD500X with data cable, and it does work. So it is something to do with the battery not getting power to the unit. Do you think it would be the battery holder as it was with yours? How hard was it to swap?

I am not sure what could be happening, but on a side note, I would suggest using the XLR outputs to your scarlet to take advantage of the cleaner balanced signal. Here are a couple of things to consider when troubleshooting. I am assuming your 1/4 cable is unbalanced (Tip/ Sleeve or TS) on both ends if it is not your scarlet might be switching the input type expecting a balanced signal if it sees a TRS connection. Here is an image to show what those connectors look like for those who don't know. https://encyclopedia2.thefreedictionary.com/Tip+Ring+Sleeve From the manual: Note: POD HD500X will generally give the best signal-to-noise performance when you have the Master Volume control at maximum. With the Master Volume control turned down low, you may get extra hiss – which obviously isn’t what you want – if you turn up your mixer or recorder’s output to compensate. In order to allow you to set the Master Volume as high as possible when connecting to recording, mixing, and other studio gear, be sure you are plugging POD HD500X 1/4-inch outputs into line level, not microphone or guitar level inputs. Line level inputs should allow you to turn POD HD500X Master Volume up all the way (or close to it) and thereby get the best sound possible. If your gear has inputs that function as mic/line level inputs, try to set the trim for those inputs to the minimum level, and POD HD500X Master Volume to maximum, when setting levels. There is also a switch which allows you to set the line outputs to amp (instrument) or line level. Having said all that, it is recommended that you start with the Master Volume control set to minimum and slowly turn the control clockwise towards maximum before any audio clipping (the bad kind of distortion) occurs. Setup: Output Options The Mode setting on this page allows you to configure the type of signal fed to your POD HD500X analog outputs to optimize for direct recording versus connecting to an external amplifier. This is a global setting. Knob 1 - Selects the Output Mode. Studio/Direct: For connecting “Direct†to a mixing console or recording device. Combo and Stack settings: These 4 options are all designed to optimize your tone for connecting to an external amplifier. The signal includes “Live†Cab Models,with no Mic Model or “AIR†convolution, with a special EQ curve added for each. Combo Front & Stack Front: For connecting into the front input of a typical combo amp or amp head + external cab, respectively. When choosing either of these Modes, you’ll see additional options for further tone shaping. Combo Power Amp & Stack Power Amp: For connecting to the power amp of a combo or head amp.

Man I was just asking about using multiple parameters for one controller for this very reason. http://line6.com/support/topic/32524-can-hd500x-controller-pedal-control-multiple-parameters-at-once/ What I also did was roll on/off drive during the transition on the two amps for that clean to crunch transition. There seems to be a spot just after beginning transition from a clean amp to treadplate where there is a noticeable bump in volume and not as smooth as I would like. I added a compressor after the amps to try to fix this with decent results. Only noticeable with a slow fade, a quick fade like switching channels is super smooth.

Good tip! That did the trick and I ended up assigning the controller to both amp volumes and drive parameters so I have a pretty smooth fade from clean to crunch. Not perfect but pretty good. I am adding a compressor post mixer to help smooth out the volume change. Yes, I meant the HD500X Editor. Thanks!

This works in the workbench software but not when it's unplugged from USB. I am trying to set up a patch with two amplifiers that fade out of Amp One and fades into Amp 2. So when the pedal is in max position on the toe, Amp 1 is at full volume amp two is minimum (off). When at heel position it is the opposite with amp one at 0 volume and amp two at max volume. To try this, I set the controller pedal to control the channel volume on amp 1 with a minimum set to 0 and maximum to my desired level (75). Then for channel volume on amp two, I set this in reverse with the minimum at 75 and maximum at zero. It works in the workbench, but when I disconnect it after saving and sending the patch to the POD, it works once, then seems that the negative settings are ignored and all I can do is fade out amp one, amp two is always coming through. Is this possible to accomplish?

Thank you all for the replies. I did not realize the guitar could run without the battery installed or I would have tried that as well. I charged it overnight and plugged the battery in and the problem is gone, works without the battery too. With all signs pointing to piezo but having it working after charging the battery makes me nervous. I don't want my lollipop hanging out at a gig so I opened a ticket with support. I don't see any loose connections as far as I can tell, jostling the guitar does not cause anything to cut out. I just want to identify the cause and fix it our avoid making the same mistake. Thanks again everyone.

Will the JTV run on a dead battery if it is plugged into the POD via VDI cable? Does the battery drain when it is plugged into the VDI cable? Some Background: I'm a new owner of JTV and POD HD 500X. I had been putting it through it's paces for a week, leaving the rig on most of the time to see if the guitar or POD ever acted up or needed rebooted. I started the week with a fully charged battery. I thought the VDI powered AND charged the JTV (now I understand it does NOT charge it,..ok then). So I take it to rehearsal for the first time, play one song (everyone is pretty amazed) then I loose the first 3 strings. I noticed the battery was dead, well one light...not sure if it was blinking because I wasn't aware of the led states at the time. I tried regular 1/4 cable and VDI Cable, rebooted POD, pulled the battery out and inserted it again...but the top three strings would not sound from the piezo. It was what I consider my worst nightmare at a gig. I had to go old school, but I use different turnings and I usually have at least two guitars to accomplish live. Well, glad it happened and I was able to deal with it. I charged the battery and it is fine. I will do some experimenting to see if I can reproduce the problem to know that it was in fact caused by a dead battery.