grdGo33

Sure you can, now should you want to? I think a drive or maybe compression pedal would make more sense, as they tend to be cheaper (you can get some good/decent $20 OD/distortion pedals from aliexpress, gearbest, etc.,) and the reverbs of the Go are more comparable to $400 reverb pedals. So for saving blocks, imho, would be better value to use the Go reverbs and get cheap outboard pedal for distortion or such. There's also a preset with 7 free blocks, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtAbpBMMwKg, so choosing the cheapest amp (del sol 300 costs is 0??), you'll likely get more DSP available, as well as usable blocks, if you're using 4CM with your amp.

Same! Worked flawlessly upgrading from 1.4. Did anyone play with the new amps and cab system? Do they really sound better than legacy cabs? And if so, any recommendations for mics, cabs, settings, etc.? I've been mostly using the best IR in the world, I think this new cab looks promising, with the diagram, which btw you can move the mic location & distance from, might be a bit more intuitive than legacy cabs. I'm guessing that the more you move off-axis, the more the high end will be subdued, and I guess maybe the mids and bass will be affected too. I'm hoping that it's somewhat linear, and you can somehow wrap your head about what moving more off axis will result in, which will allow you to easily tweak the sound, but I think it might still be more like trial and error... (won't have constant effect, and might vary by cab and maybe even mic...!)

https://line6.com/software/index.html?hardware=All&name=POD Go Edit&os=All&submit_form=set Sweet! Can't wait to install it later today.

For this, yeah, I'm using similar setup a silverhead described; instead of having speakers connected to the PC, you connect the speakers to the PodGo, podgo is connected to computer using USB, and you set your computer to output the sound of the computer via PodGo. And voila, you can then even play computer sound and podgo sounds at the same time.

Pretty sure it'll bypass the FX loop block as well. But my recommendation was more a different solution; the issue as I understood it was a requirement to bypass podgo. Using FX loop could be one, but it requires customization for every patch. If you're gigging it's likely the only solution if you want seamless switching. But if you're just playing as a hobby, and just want to switch from one device to another without having to plug and unplug cables, and don't want to have to customize every single one of your 86 patches with a custom FX Loop snapshot that disables blocks and enables FX Loop, the tuner option might be simpler. I'm not 100% sure it's 100% bypass though, as it might use some features (noise gate, boost/cut volume, etc.?), but likely should be good enough if you're not recording your next record with it! ;) Could also be useful if one day you own more than 1 multi-fx unit, so thought I'd mention the idea. :) But yeah, you'd have say guit -> amp emu pedal -> pod go -> computer/speakers/whatnot, and basically have to bypass either device to use the other. Otherwise yeah, I'd also go with snapshots; disables all blocks except FX-Loop and vice versa. And with the 4 cable method, you could also use the FX Loop amp pedal in Go..

You could also try to enable tuner volume, and simply hit the tuner. If I'm not mistaken, it'll pass the direct signal, then no need for a custom patch or whatnot, always 'bypass' enabled at the push of a button!

There's also a "1/4" XLR Combo Jack Connector" connector whichallows both XLR & 1/4 TRS... I think that 1/4 jack is more common on cheaper equipment than XLR, so likely a better match for budget PGO... To add to the confusion, "A TRS cable can carry either a balanced audio signal or a stereo audio signal, depending on what audio output you connect the cable to" https://www.swamp.net.au/balanced-stereo-trs-cable.html https://producerhive.com/buyer-guides/accessories/ts-vs-trs-cables/ From the Pod Go manual: So yeah, as you stated, not super clear from text/manual, but for Pod Go specifically, not designed to output Stereo from either Main Out TS/TRS outputs. With other devices, YMMV. ("not super clear", actually, doesn't say <Stereo> on either, so maybe that makes it clear that since it's "L/MONO" & RIGHT, it's not "R/STEREO", so excludes the Stereo.. The FX LOOP output does specify SEND (STEREO).. Yep, logical!)

Think you should be able to use also the 'Main Out'. On the Left, it does specify mono, but the right has no mention of mono, so should be able to output stereo? Unless like silverhead said, the Go Right channel is also mono, and L6 expects users to use 2 cables to use the Main Out for stereo... (as a workaround; phones for TRS / stereo cable ...) Yeah I think silverhead is correct... :\

Likely this, as you're using PGO + whatever modeling the Katana is doing. 1) How is the Go plugged in the katana? Are you using 4 cable method? One way to bypass at least some of the katana modeling would be to connect the Go to the effect loop of the katana, if yours has one... 2) But also, depending on the patch you're connecting 'into' with the Go, might be that there's some compression or something... 3) I also recall that there's a setting in the global settings of the Go to set the output of I think main out instrument, so if you're using that, make sure it's instrument as it's probably what the Katana is expecting for its guitar or effect loop inputs. I'm guessing otherwise might 'overload' and maybe cause feedback?

What happened? Depending on what is broken, you'll probably be able to save some money by getting it repaired locally. Some posters have mentioned just a very cheap sensor dying, which can be easily replaced. In Canada, sadly, such repairs are often not super sensible giving ridiculous cost of manual labour; ex; electronics repair guy will charge $50 to look at the unit and $100 / hour for repair... But I'd hope India would be more reasonable. Cheapest of course would be buying a $20 solder kit and repairing it yourself, but that does take some skill...

yep, this page https://helixhelp.com/models/ describes what's what in Go vs Real. Bit weird Spider manual doesn't describe its effects, older models had at least basics described... But yeah dozen vs hundreds... ok list here, doesn't seem to correspond to Go... Also, if you have a looper, very convenient to play 2-3 riffs, loop, and edit without having to switch from edit to play to hear how the change sounds. Looks like Spider has android app, so looper, side by side android phone/tablet & PC editing with PGo edit would be optimal as for delays getting the right settings is pretty crucial.. But anyway, not sure how exact you have to be, half the fun is learning the device, trying out new sounds and learning the new amps/effects. Dialing a new tone once you've got the UI figured out isn't that hard. I'd recommend checking out the IR thread and getting the best IR in the world, that can alleviate things quite a bit as you don't have to mess around with cabs and mic settings, and can learn amps & effects.

Don't own the DS1 but appears you're right; Comments seem to agree too. The models should be the same. Maybe another setting; amp, IR, amp sag, cab, etc., was different and that affected your impression, but to my knowledge, except the newer amps modeling in the Helix, all the effects should be identical between Helix, Stomp, Go, etc. The good news is that if you love and use the DS1 often, it would be ideal to stick between the guit and the Go; it's very versatile, as in, could use with most patches as distortion or boost (think it does boost decently too?), and not only is it cheap enough so that it doesn't eat into the budget of the Go too much, it even adds to go as it saves a valuable block & DSP. Plus, unlike other effects, it's ideally placed before the Go.

Nice! So solved? Just formatting, reinstalling everything and the problem went away?

Yeah who knows! Very weird getting tons of static when plugged USB ... ! Formatting might have been a bit over the top; possible you had some setting somewhere; be it under windows settings, in the DAO software you were using, etc,. format sometimes is the only recourse, but checking out setting and all typically can solve issues. For Go, think it uses ASIO driver (installed with PodGo Edit?), or that was the recommended option/driver to configure to use with Audacity or other, low latency, etc., but any driver should work as per sound quality, maybe something was off as in bitrate or I don't know what else... Have you tried plugging the Go directly to your Yamaha monitors? Would have been great test; and as mentioned; using headphones, etc. Looks like the HS line has TRS connectors, so 2 guitar cables should do the trick, definitely something you should try! Even with just 1 speaker. Just make sure to connect 'Main' output of Go to the HS! And yeah 100% those Yamahas are perfectly adequate and Go should sound fantastic once every issue is resolved! :D no need for FRFR lol

Yeah really weird! Your sound is really saturated, it almost sounds like.. Yeah, if you use the amp out, depending on a global setting, it can bypass the cab blocks (and everything after) and you'll get that sort of harsh tone that you're describing; what it seems like I'm hearing through your clip, and like you've described, fizzy, harsh, etc. You could always try connecting laptop via USB, it should tell you right away if that's the issue. Or, add a delay, last block of your chain, see if you hear it, that will confirm without switching any wire amp out is the cause. And like Silverhead said in 1st response, try with headphones & headphone out see it sounds better. And yeah 100% that 'sound issue' doesn't come from the guitar! Makes a difference, but not like that!! This is great clip to hear what presets should somewhat sound like using proper guitar and playing style for the patch; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5V6-nCYt88A But I'm sure that your presets sound really really different

Not sure, why not post a clip? Also what are you comparing to? With modern / heavy distortion, it's not like you're going to get note definition; it's just a general trait of distortion, everything tends to get and sound distorted, and you do lose a ton of note definition. I think some amp models might be better than at retaining note definition than others, but it's just a trait of distortion. Think note definition is more common trait of pickups, where something like Fluence Modern or Bare Knuckle will give you better note definition, albeit with similar distortion limitations.. I mean, a lot of your tone comes from your guitar. Anyway, all the tones you hear from youtube, you should be able to achieve using your own Pod Go. But PG is a tool, and will be limited by its user... And sadly, I think the Go is slightly less user friendly than other simpler units; maybe higher potential, but requires bit more knowledge and skill to tweak properly and get certain sound quality, which might be easier to get out of the box from other units (I say this just owning Go, impression from Katana 'simplicity' and other simpler units). And again, different guitars. If you like what you hear from youtube, via your computer speakers, you should be able to get the same quality-ish with Go connected to PC via USB and playing through the same speakers... But yeah, what are you comparing to? Another small detail; Pod Go emulates recorded guitar, not a pure amp + cab in a room... So if you're expecting pure amp cab sound in a room, you're getting the recorded sound of a cab by a particular microphone... Same for many units, slight difference, but difference none the less.. (does not really correspond to fizzy or whatnot)

Yeah the tones you'll get will be affected by your guitar pickups. So downloaded patch might end up not sounding as they were designed to work with a different guitar.. What guitar do you use btw? And I'd forget the Spider amp, you're much better off with studio monitors or good speakers, but I don't know particularly about the spider cab, my guess would be not the greatest, if its anything like my old Spider3, but newer hopefully would be better... lol A decent place to start would be youtube... Lots of good guides about Pod Go and just getting particular guitar tones. It all starts with the Amp, lots of good modern Amps; Archetype Lead, Derailed Ingrid, Placater Dirty, ANGL Meteor, Revv, Das Benzin, Line 6 Badonk, L6 Electrik etc., list vs real amps; https://helixhelp.com/models/ guides about tweaking particular amps should work similarly well with Go, although the real vs emulated identical settings might not translate 100%... General ideas are the same with both cases though. I would also have to start with IR, there`s the best IR in the world https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/the-best-ir-in-the-world-free.137347/ lots of other good IRs to download, so you don`t have to use mic and cab which simplifies things quite a bit. Just search on the web or in this forum, have a thread with lots of links, but this IR is just great overall with pretty much all styles. But yeah, IR or cabs+mic selection makes a HUGE different to your sound and tone. Other things you can try, cut the bass & increase mids to cut through mix, set amp sag to 0, don't max drive/distortion, should help things a bit. That said, you might try boost bass & treble and cutting mids for that 'huge' sound, that can work in bedroom but doesn't translate to band/live very well.. But yeah, in the end, everything passes through your cab or speakers, so in this case, it might not be a case of "garbage in, garbage out", but you'll never better sound than your cab/speakers, lots of people here like FRFR powered cabinets, like FRFR-108 headrush I think it was. Like a powered speaker with more neutral-ish tone; better for emulators and stuff, as normal guitar cabs sound like, normal guitar cabs, which isn't the greatest if you're trying to emulate different guitar cabs than the one you're using... But even if you're using decent computer monitors, should sound more than decent! Good studio monitors are even better, but an old spider cab will always sound like an old spider cab! (but maybe modern ones are better.. hehe)

Couldn't find anything specific on Go, helix LT seems to have a debug mode, but haven't seen anything for that for Go, you might want to try to contact support, or might try to see if you can fix things yourself like cs33956. This vid shows the LT, but the mechanics should be fairly similar? Yeah looks pretty similar looking at the pics above, I was curious to see how it work, looks like the small 2 white squares are 2 sensors, and in the case of Go, there's like a relatively big metal plate on top, on LT, it's a thin black metal, with some sort of white covering, ah, so one emits light, the other is a sensor. So yeah, if your LED is dead, replacing might be the only solution. If you're lucky could just be a detached cable!

By pure coincidence... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJHfTDFu-Eg BarkingSpiders, is that you? :)

Sure, you can use the four cable method. It's pretty standard for connecting such multi-fx pedals. The Go reverbs and delays are excellent, or at worse really good, depending on who you're asking I guess... There's an edited patch floating around with all blocks empty, which is a workaround for the amp cab & other effects blocks being locked, and only have 4 dynamic blocks; but you'll likely be restricted by DSP, but still could be useful. But yeah as is, only 4 dynamic blocks. You might be able to have more blocks and do the same 4 CM with other units, but not entirely sure if you'll have as much variety and effect quality as the Go... Bit losing out on not using the Go's amps though imho; they're a 'big' part of the Go, kind of a waste not to use them if they're there!

Sweet! Unless what's in the latest update is a deal breaker for you if it was for some reason not released, I'd just buy the Go now if you're thinking about buying it in the future. And by that, I mean the current Go has hundreds of effects, amps and all, you can use IRs, so ... The little extra there will be in the future patch really isn't much relative to what you would get right now with the Go. Not to say you shouldn't do your due diligence and check what alternatives there are to Pod Go... But yeah if you're gonna buy it, better buy it now I'd say, waiting for price drop which might not come or patch is a bit futile. When you'll plug it in, you'll have so much stuff to play with I guarantee you really won't worry about what's missing from the future patch. Just search for my IR thread, link to best IR in the world, you can use that instead of the cabs; imho; huge upgrade in terms of simplicity & not having to worry about cab+mic.

The Pod Go is realistic enough so that it's pretty similar to real amps, so I would hunt down the real amps equivalent using this page and check out videos about tweaking the real amps. That's one of the thing I really loved with the Go, instead of just virtual amps, it gets you to learn about real gear, even some history about amps and iconic amps. There's also quite a few EQ vids also which might help you get rid of that nasal sound, but might that come from the Orange Baby or cab? Maybe using the EQ/tone controls on the the Orange Baby might help to make it sound more neutral, as possibly the amp + your cab have their own flavors. So, for that playing some music using the line-in of the go might help you figure out how to make it more neutral of a platform. If the EQ on amp does not do much, and there's still too much coloration, the Go has a global EQ, so you could set that up to 'counter' the amp/cab, and then you'd have a clean slate for all your patches! Plus, if you have to plug somewhere else, can just edit global EQ and all your patches will sound great. Then there's all the PGO pedals and effecsts to check out lol

probably the optical volume pedal, which is affected by light. Maybe modding or covering up in some way the bit under the pedal might help, you can do a search has been asked a couple of times. Or, if you're not using the volume pedal, disabling its block might be a solution also.

What do you mean by 'audio interface' and DAW? How is/was your Go connected to what? I'm using mine connected to PC via USB, and outputting the sound of the Go and PC to Go's headphone out to an amp and speakers, and it sounds as you would expect; normal, like any other DAC or whatnot. So either you somehow had an issue, or maybe the other audio interface has some sort of feature which alters the signal (ex; spatial or dynamic plugin). Go should sound transparent.

hehe yeah... Personally, I'm happy with the best IR in the world; does everything I want, and never feel compelled to go cab/mic route. Plus, as I mentioned, a great solution for the Go would be DIY dual cabs IR, by merging 2 different IR files. So, if that works as I think it should, could again be a great workaround/until we get the new cab system, if that's what you're waiting for. (From what I saw for IRs, they appear to be mono, so you couldn't have different left/right channels, but you could merge say 33% amp1 and 67% amp2, which could give interesting results, or could be horrible... Haven't tried it yet lol) If it's new cabs/effects, probably lots of stuff you can revisit, or check out vids about Go to get new inspiration! Already so much stuff in the Go, likely tons of stuff we've all overlooked!