grdGo33

Nice! Yeah one thing with Go is that you basically have to go through the manual... So many options, definitely won't be able to fiddle your way exploring every option... Gets even worse once you get to effects with 26 different parameters, many of which really aren't very intuitive, as the manual doesn't go in depth for many of the options and settings... descriptions of amps, cabs, models, etc., vs 'real' counterparts: https://helixhelp.com/models/ Added effects details (settings, etc.) https://line6.com/software/index.html?hardware=All&name=POD Go Edit&os=All&submit_form=set Then, there's all the million tricks and subtleties; things you wouldn't think/know on your own; so can be learned via guides, tutorials, tweaking videos/articles, etc., sigh ... That's all time spent not playing or practicing guitar though. LOL Not exactly sure what gain there would be to increasing cab volume? But on volume topic; the channel volume of the amp is basically the 'pure' volume, while the Master volume simulates how a real amp reacts to increased volume; gain/saturation. Ex; Gain 3, Ch. vol 10, Master 1, would result in low gain/distortion. While Gain 3, Ch vol 1, Master 10, would simulate a real amp pushed to max volume; so your '3' of gain would be much different with both. (tube saturation and all) Same goes with your chain; boosting volume before hitting the amp block, vs boosting volume after hitting the cab block will result in quite different gain/distortion characteristics/feel. Even for EQ. Ex; you can use the EQ as a boost, increasing volume, and again, placing it before or after the amp block will affect the distortion characteristics of the amp.

For the tone & just overall 'amp' sound, the cab & mic are crucial, and wrapping your head around the different combinations of cab/mic isn't easy at all, given the vast number of mics, cabs, placement options, etc. So I always recommend The best IR in the world, really sounds great with pretty much any genre, simplifies a lot the entire tone-finding process. setting the Sag setting of the amp tends to make things tighter; less muddy. Always at 0 for me. Proper use of EQ For the impedance issue, if you don't have a pod go with the impedance issue then you don't have an impedance issue and adding buffer pedal shouldn't make a significant change. But that said; Which particular amp(s)? Not all models nor all amps are created equal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bz9tO4-kAG4 L6 really models the amps electronic components. And even 2 amps of the same brand/model can sound different, not to mention tubes... The blind tests I've seen of real gear vs L6 Helix/Go/etc., pretty much demonstrate that it's on par; really hard to differentiate. It's really all about your ability to tweak the tone. And not everybody likes the same amps/tones either. A lot of the amps you've mentioned are favorites in the lineup, and for me they're just plain meh.. Don't think it's particularly related to the amp/model, maybe more about your own playing style, your guitar, preferences, tweaking ability, tone-preference, etc., So as there's a ridiculous 100+ amps in the thing, just find a dozen amps that work for you, and forget about the rest. That would be my advice. But, it's definitely fun to explore amps and their history, and learning how people use them and how to make them work; plenty of tutorial videos and tweaking PGO tones, so I'd definitely start off with that too! Oh and don't be afraid to use the L6 amps either. Revisited them recently and they're pretty awesome. Definitely nothing wrong using them over 'real' amps; they're just that; improved versions or tweaks of existing amps; amps that could exist, or maybe couldn't due to electronic vs DSP, but honestly they sound great, I'd get rid of all Marshalls in PGO instead of them in a heartbeat! Not 'worse' in any way.

Just save another preset over this preset, then change it as desired.

Sag is always at 0%, the others are default values. Since typically I can't really hear much difference when testing different values, I'd categorize these as micro parameters; very minor effects, so I in majority of cases don't bother changing them, and just tend to use settings which have a far more drastic effect. More subtlety/precision than I care for. It's the last block, because I use an external looper for looping and it allows me changing sounds/patches without having the patch alter looped sound. Otherwise, it will depend on which effects you're using in the FX loop, so compression/distortion first blocks, vs reverbs/delays/etc., last blocks.

You can setup footswitch 1 turn on/off overdrive, FS 2 to turn on/off distortion, and you can program multiple parameters to FS 3, which for example could reduce channel volume, increase master volume, turn up amp gain, etc. You'd have to still push 3 footswitches, but you get multiple combinable options of OD/DST/Gain, resulting in multiple possibilities. You could also even bind multiple parameters to your volume/wah pedal, so that all the way up it's a clean tone, whereas all the way down it's disgusting distortion, and you get the in betweens too. But the simplest for " Clean, Dirty and Overdrive pressing just one switch for each. ", is 3 snapshots, one for each of those tones. 1 footswitch for each, done. KISS. (Keep It Simple, Stupid!) You could also tweak your presets so that the patch can clean up; Meaning, you dial down the volume of your guitar and/or play softly, and the sound is clean, whereas when you play loud or crank up the guitar volume, you get a distorted tone. For that, some amps are better than others, some amps/channels are great at it, others just can't do it. But my 2c, you're likely trying to do too much with gear; especially if you're a newer player, with something like pod go, it's easy to lose sight that it's about guitar playing and not about microscopic distortion settings. The music won't be good/bad because you've went from 25% OD to 35% OD, it's much more about actual music & how/what you play..!

BTW, posted in another comment but never got a response, I believe that you could do twin mics with IRs, if you could find/make some. (edited above post above btw) Also, I've really gotta try this, but since an IR is a wav, it might be simple to simply add two IRs (waves) together then 1/2 the volume; and you'll be essentially averaging the two together; two mics & cabs into one, hopefully someone can confirm/deny this! Thanks! :D (might try it later, if I can finish all other work ... lol)

Yeah not possible. Single path. Think the Stomp models can, but they're also a bit limited by DSP / number of effects you can use; plus other compromises. I guess many think it sounds better; could very well, I wouldn't argue against the concept. But a large portion of guitar players only use one amp, and many recordings were also done with 1 mic... Is it that important of a feature? How much better will 2 mics/cabs sound vs single? Because like everything, it'll end up being compromise; you'll have to pay more, smaller screen, no volume pedal, etc., so in the end, what's it worth to you? Even in usage; the Go has a million features and possibilities... Adding dual paths to the equation, if you're not experienced, you'll just be adding to complexity. KISS concept likely apply here. For myself, I didn't even use the mic/cab system mostly, just used 1 IR, adequately named "the best IR in the world", and the Go's million other options were more than enough to tweak the sound. So YMMV! Btw with latest update there was an overhaul of the mic/cab system which wasn't bad to start with, and many have reported improvements. There's tons of vids on YT and others, so I'd say try to listen to some tones, see if they sound good or bad to you. Lots of free or paid IRs too. videos with sound & discussing a bit the topic & limitations

Yep, plus bass... (7506 is essentially the same as V6) https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/sony-mdr-7506-review-headphone.19099/ Having listened to much music on many different headphones and quite enjoyed it, I could never really enjoy the sound of Pod Go + headphones... So if your presets have been built to sound balanced on headphones, especially V6, it likely just won't translate on speakers! But if you think that there are 'issues' with FR for headphones, for speakers, it's even worse..... Right away, unless you have very good speakers in a well setup room, much of what you hear isn't even the sound from the speakers, it's the room reflections, with room modes; where some frequencies are boosted and other are null'd. Takes a lot of work to get a pair of speakers to work well in a room, and it involves room treatment, careful speaker placement and specific listening position. And then again, the speakers themselves will have their own FR and all, so just compounds with room issues. At least you can just put headphones on your head and they work as intended, as there's no room interaction! (But not even... Might depend on the shape of your head; as depending on whether you can get a good seal, shape of your head/ears, some headphones might some awesome on the head of some people and not for others!! Not even considering different hearing; just head and ear shape...!!! LOL ) So likely a combination of everything; the V6 aren't super neutral, and likely your room and speakers aren't either! PA speakers also aren't renown for their neutrality; likely to be even more all over the place vs home audio speakers, since their reason to exist is more to 'blast' (SPL) sound for large venues; so compression drivers, large drivers, often large plastic boxes, etc.. Not that they can't sound good, I'm sure there's some fantastic PA speakers out there (high end studio monitors sound fantastic), but depending on the venue, they're very likely not to be the sweetest sounding speakers out there. FRFR speakers aren't considered speaker 'cabs' as speaker guitar cabs such as the ones in the Pod Go. So you should 100% be using the the cab block of the Go. FRFR speaker are more like regular audio speakers, they're made to play music; whether they're drums, guitar, etc., a guitar speaker cab is more like designed to sound 'good' with a guitar amp (color the sound), which is why there's 100 different guitar cabs to make your sound different. In contrast, FRFR speakers, Studio Monitors, or audiophile speakers, of headphones, are just trying to play the signal as accurately as possible; not impart their own sound. So yeah, for PA speakers, FRFR, studio monitors or regular speakers, definitely use the PGO cab block otherwise it'll sound like poop! ;)

Two good resources; not complete or ultra detailed, but way better than nothing, it has good info: https://helixhelp.com/models/ https://benvesco.com/store/helix-dsp-allocations/ Since the effects/amps are often based on real amps and effects, you can read up on the original product, and much of it translates to Pod Go; albeit not 100% translation given real vs emulated... But what each knob does should be fairly similar, for instance, for compressors, while in PGO it's not really explained what each setting does, finding the original unit and reading about it will give you all the info you need to make the same adjustments in PGO. Good luck! :D

Yeah I played a little with it on the weekend, it might be placebo, but they did seem to sound a lot better than the legacy cabs... Or even random downloaded IRs. It might be that the default settings are just better (cab + mic + mic & other settings), but I think it was with the Archtype lead amp and I could just switch amps or even cab settings, and just playings afterwards, and it just seemed to sound great! In contrast, I had largely given up using cabs/IRs, and instead majority of time just used the best IR in the world... Maybe there was some sort of issue with the original cabs which made some (most?) mic/cab/settings combinations sound not great, as I clearly recall having watched vids where people compared the PGO stock cabs with different IRs, and after slight tweaks like EQ and stuff they sounded pretty much identical... So strange, I do think they're better, but might have been old cabs needed specific tweaking to sound good, whereas new cabs don't and sound better with random/misc settings... I'll likely play more with it, revisit stock cabs and IRs, and try to figure out if or how much they really improved, but at this point, seems like they did! 0.o Yep, first thoughts; great upgrade from old stock cabs! :D Which btw seems to correspond to everything I've heard about the new cab system, which could have influenced also my early thoughts... (placebo?) lol

Sure you can, now should you want to? I think a drive or maybe compression pedal would make more sense, as they tend to be cheaper (you can get some good/decent $20 OD/distortion pedals from aliexpress, gearbest, etc.,) and the reverbs of the Go are more comparable to $400 reverb pedals. So for saving blocks, imho, would be better value to use the Go reverbs and get cheap outboard pedal for distortion or such. There's also a preset with 7 free blocks, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtAbpBMMwKg, so choosing the cheapest amp (del sol 300 costs is 0??), you'll likely get more DSP available, as well as usable blocks, if you're using 4CM with your amp.

Same! Worked flawlessly upgrading from 1.4. Did anyone play with the new amps and cab system? Do they really sound better than legacy cabs? And if so, any recommendations for mics, cabs, settings, etc.? I've been mostly using the best IR in the world, I think this new cab looks promising, with the diagram, which btw you can move the mic location & distance from, might be a bit more intuitive than legacy cabs. I'm guessing that the more you move off-axis, the more the high end will be subdued, and I guess maybe the mids and bass will be affected too. I'm hoping that it's somewhat linear, and you can somehow wrap your head about what moving more off axis will result in, which will allow you to easily tweak the sound, but I think it might still be more like trial and error... (won't have constant effect, and might vary by cab and maybe even mic...!)

https://line6.com/software/index.html?hardware=All&name=POD Go Edit&os=All&submit_form=set Sweet! Can't wait to install it later today.

For this, yeah, I'm using similar setup a silverhead described; instead of having speakers connected to the PC, you connect the speakers to the PodGo, podgo is connected to computer using USB, and you set your computer to output the sound of the computer via PodGo. And voila, you can then even play computer sound and podgo sounds at the same time.

Pretty sure it'll bypass the FX loop block as well. But my recommendation was more a different solution; the issue as I understood it was a requirement to bypass podgo. Using FX loop could be one, but it requires customization for every patch. If you're gigging it's likely the only solution if you want seamless switching. But if you're just playing as a hobby, and just want to switch from one device to another without having to plug and unplug cables, and don't want to have to customize every single one of your 86 patches with a custom FX Loop snapshot that disables blocks and enables FX Loop, the tuner option might be simpler. I'm not 100% sure it's 100% bypass though, as it might use some features (noise gate, boost/cut volume, etc.?), but likely should be good enough if you're not recording your next record with it! ;) Could also be useful if one day you own more than 1 multi-fx unit, so thought I'd mention the idea. :) But yeah, you'd have say guit -> amp emu pedal -> pod go -> computer/speakers/whatnot, and basically have to bypass either device to use the other. Otherwise yeah, I'd also go with snapshots; disables all blocks except FX-Loop and vice versa. And with the 4 cable method, you could also use the FX Loop amp pedal in Go..

You could also try to enable tuner volume, and simply hit the tuner. If I'm not mistaken, it'll pass the direct signal, then no need for a custom patch or whatnot, always 'bypass' enabled at the push of a button!

There's also a "1/4" XLR Combo Jack Connector" connector whichallows both XLR & 1/4 TRS... I think that 1/4 jack is more common on cheaper equipment than XLR, so likely a better match for budget PGO... To add to the confusion, "A TRS cable can carry either a balanced audio signal or a stereo audio signal, depending on what audio output you connect the cable to" https://www.swamp.net.au/balanced-stereo-trs-cable.html https://producerhive.com/buyer-guides/accessories/ts-vs-trs-cables/ From the Pod Go manual: So yeah, as you stated, not super clear from text/manual, but for Pod Go specifically, not designed to output Stereo from either Main Out TS/TRS outputs. With other devices, YMMV. ("not super clear", actually, doesn't say <Stereo> on either, so maybe that makes it clear that since it's "L/MONO" & RIGHT, it's not "R/STEREO", so excludes the Stereo.. The FX LOOP output does specify SEND (STEREO).. Yep, logical!)

Think you should be able to use also the 'Main Out'. On the Left, it does specify mono, but the right has no mention of mono, so should be able to output stereo? Unless like silverhead said, the Go Right channel is also mono, and L6 expects users to use 2 cables to use the Main Out for stereo... (as a workaround; phones for TRS / stereo cable ...) Yeah I think silverhead is correct... :\

Likely this, as you're using PGO + whatever modeling the Katana is doing. 1) How is the Go plugged in the katana? Are you using 4 cable method? One way to bypass at least some of the katana modeling would be to connect the Go to the effect loop of the katana, if yours has one... 2) But also, depending on the patch you're connecting 'into' with the Go, might be that there's some compression or something... 3) I also recall that there's a setting in the global settings of the Go to set the output of I think main out instrument, so if you're using that, make sure it's instrument as it's probably what the Katana is expecting for its guitar or effect loop inputs. I'm guessing otherwise might 'overload' and maybe cause feedback?

What happened? Depending on what is broken, you'll probably be able to save some money by getting it repaired locally. Some posters have mentioned just a very cheap sensor dying, which can be easily replaced. In Canada, sadly, such repairs are often not super sensible giving ridiculous cost of manual labour; ex; electronics repair guy will charge $50 to look at the unit and $100 / hour for repair... But I'd hope India would be more reasonable. Cheapest of course would be buying a $20 solder kit and repairing it yourself, but that does take some skill...

yep, this page https://helixhelp.com/models/ describes what's what in Go vs Real. Bit weird Spider manual doesn't describe its effects, older models had at least basics described... But yeah dozen vs hundreds... ok list here, doesn't seem to correspond to Go... Also, if you have a looper, very convenient to play 2-3 riffs, loop, and edit without having to switch from edit to play to hear how the change sounds. Looks like Spider has android app, so looper, side by side android phone/tablet & PC editing with PGo edit would be optimal as for delays getting the right settings is pretty crucial.. But anyway, not sure how exact you have to be, half the fun is learning the device, trying out new sounds and learning the new amps/effects. Dialing a new tone once you've got the UI figured out isn't that hard. I'd recommend checking out the IR thread and getting the best IR in the world, that can alleviate things quite a bit as you don't have to mess around with cabs and mic settings, and can learn amps & effects.

Don't own the DS1 but appears you're right; Comments seem to agree too. The models should be the same. Maybe another setting; amp, IR, amp sag, cab, etc., was different and that affected your impression, but to my knowledge, except the newer amps modeling in the Helix, all the effects should be identical between Helix, Stomp, Go, etc. The good news is that if you love and use the DS1 often, it would be ideal to stick between the guit and the Go; it's very versatile, as in, could use with most patches as distortion or boost (think it does boost decently too?), and not only is it cheap enough so that it doesn't eat into the budget of the Go too much, it even adds to go as it saves a valuable block & DSP. Plus, unlike other effects, it's ideally placed before the Go.

Nice! So solved? Just formatting, reinstalling everything and the problem went away?

Yeah who knows! Very weird getting tons of static when plugged USB ... ! Formatting might have been a bit over the top; possible you had some setting somewhere; be it under windows settings, in the DAO software you were using, etc,. format sometimes is the only recourse, but checking out setting and all typically can solve issues. For Go, think it uses ASIO driver (installed with PodGo Edit?), or that was the recommended option/driver to configure to use with Audacity or other, low latency, etc., but any driver should work as per sound quality, maybe something was off as in bitrate or I don't know what else... Have you tried plugging the Go directly to your Yamaha monitors? Would have been great test; and as mentioned; using headphones, etc. Looks like the HS line has TRS connectors, so 2 guitar cables should do the trick, definitely something you should try! Even with just 1 speaker. Just make sure to connect 'Main' output of Go to the HS! And yeah 100% those Yamahas are perfectly adequate and Go should sound fantastic once every issue is resolved! :D no need for FRFR lol

Yeah really weird! Your sound is really saturated, it almost sounds like.. Yeah, if you use the amp out, depending on a global setting, it can bypass the cab blocks (and everything after) and you'll get that sort of harsh tone that you're describing; what it seems like I'm hearing through your clip, and like you've described, fizzy, harsh, etc. You could always try connecting laptop via USB, it should tell you right away if that's the issue. Or, add a delay, last block of your chain, see if you hear it, that will confirm without switching any wire amp out is the cause. And like Silverhead said in 1st response, try with headphones & headphone out see it sounds better. And yeah 100% that 'sound issue' doesn't come from the guitar! Makes a difference, but not like that!! This is great clip to hear what presets should somewhat sound like using proper guitar and playing style for the patch; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5V6-nCYt88A But I'm sure that your presets sound really really different