wowza

lol I remember reading that on the forum not long after I bought it, that was by far the best post on that thread! I really have thought about just ditching it because honestly I have the dials so conservative it doesn't sound to different whether it on or bypassed. I really don't know what happened I powered everything up today and everything is fine so whatever happened it decided it's going to behave itself for now. In any case maybe I should just pull the thing from the rack and begin the withdrawl process lol

I will also add that I did pull the cables out of the head and reseated them a couple times to make sure it was fine there.

I'm pretty positive my cable lead was completely seated through all this. I have the g90 so I really don't have to worry about tripping on the cord or anything like that. And I ruled out the cables with a multimeter before switching the maximizer over to the pod. I'll try it again tomorrow just to see if there is something I'm missing but honestly nothing changed from yesterday when I played it. Everything was fine, I didn't even unplug the wireless transmitter from the guitar I left it on the strap when I put the guitar on the wall hanger.

Has anyone had any issues buying the license for the model packs because i for one would love to give them my money but it just doesn't want to let me lol

So today i powered up the rig to do some jamming and immediately upon taking my DT50 out of standby it starts making a horrific noise like there is a serious ground issue. I proceed into a little bit of a panic mode and shut her down. I let her sit for a bit and turn her back on hoping it was just some kind of fluke but sure enough throw her out of standby and boom hit with the horrific sound again ugh. I left it on this time and turned down the volume so i could troubleshoot. The only things i am running are my Pro and a BBE sonic maximizer through the effects loop of the DT which i run there just so i dont have to worry about it in the chain of the Pro. First thing i try is shutting down the Maximizer and boom sound goes away....awesome non sarcastic because i would rather deal with the fried out maximizer that a messed up head. I take the maximizer out of the rack and proceed to disassemble it to see if there are any noticable caps or anything that are fried but all looks good under the hood so i was at a loss there. After i put it back together i decide to try the last thing i can think of and throw it into the effects loop on the Pro and of course it works flawlessly which means now im back to an issue with the head. With the maximizer running through the Pod everything works as expected so i'm fine for now but that still means there is a problem there. Has anyone else ever had any problems with their effects loop on the amp. I guess the only thing im worried about is maybe it will lead to something worse later on or that it is already a symptom of a larger problem that is starting to come up.

In Monkey it would be under the device firmware header right above flash memory

I just updated without any issues on my Pro but i have been trying to buy the model packs for the last fifteen minutes and it won't let me. It just keeps saying there was a problem.

Well i can tell you i don't think you are crazy. I have a Bogner Unerschall and i have yet to get it to play nice. My setup is a little different, i have the Pro running into a dt50 but the noise is just insane. I wondered if it was a gain stage issue of some sort but everything i have tried has been useless to get rid of it. Everything you stated seems to be the same for me. Whether I run it in the FX loop or i run my guitar into the pedal then into the POD the results are the same. If i run it straight into the DT50 without the POD no noise. I finally just took it out of the rig, did'nt want to fight it anymore. I'm happy with the sounds i can get without it but i realize everyones needs are different. I know this doesn't help much besides to say i think it's not so much an error in settings as it is these pedals hating Pod HDs lol. I may sit down again with it tomorrow see if i can come up with anything. If I discover anything ill post.

Yeah just use the L line in and it works just fine. The R would work fine too but I don't think the tuner works on that side.

lol well i don't really either but they said the KT77s are an EL34 subsitute that aren't supposed to be as compressed. I just figured i would try it and see how it goes. They are deffinately punchier than the stock EL34s. I found that i had to turn the bass down quite a bit along with the DEP controls. I have been rattling stuff off the shelves in the room my amp is in which never happened at the same volume before. when you do a quick hit on a chord you i feel the hit a lot more than before. The highs are a lot tighter than before but im not sure how much of that is the tubes with how cold the bias was set to before the swap. As far as the noise floor I'm not quite sure how to answer. The normal hiss isn't bad in my opinion its quieter than it was before but its still there,but since my patches are usually higher gain by the time everything i want is in the noise is understandably terrible. I usually just have a gate there just to have on while i'm not playing to save my sanity otherwise i turn it off while i'm playing and its not an issue for me. I know its a big point for some people but not so much for me so i haven't really focused so much on that aspect of the swap. I have maybe 20 hours on them so far, so they are a little young yet but they are still goin strong with no problems. I like them a lot better than the stock EH EL34s but i wouldn't say the differences are night and day.

I have done it and as TheRealZap said it really didn't do as much as you think. I experimented with it after they released it with the update just got kicks. Haven't bothered with it since.

I just put a set of jj preamps and a set of jj kt77s in mine and after it was all said and I got like 36.5 and 35.7 out somewhere near there. I haven't had any troubles after the swap so far.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrpcRxX8q1I Hopefully you can use the link. Obviously the videos isn't about him fixing a problem with the ground but it will show you where it should be.

No the tail piece or stop bar whichever way you want to say it. The bar that the ball end of the strings rest in. The wire goes to the stud closest to the pots. At least it does on my les pauls I'm sure it's the same for the sg. The multimeter approach like the other guys said would probably be a good idea before you try to tackle anything.

I should say too that I swore at the time it was a case of bad power given the age of the house but wasn't the case with me though that's always a possibility on your case