wowza

lol I remember reading that on the forum not long after I bought it, that was by far the best post on that thread! I really have thought about just ditching it because honestly I have the dials so conservative it doesn't sound to different whether it on or bypassed. I really don't know what happened I powered everything up today and everything is fine so whatever happened it decided it's going to behave itself for now. In any case maybe I should just pull the thing from the rack and begin the withdrawl process lol

I will also add that I did pull the cables out of the head and reseated them a couple times to make sure it was fine there.

I'm pretty positive my cable lead was completely seated through all this. I have the g90 so I really don't have to worry about tripping on the cord or anything like that. And I ruled out the cables with a multimeter before switching the maximizer over to the pod. I'll try it again tomorrow just to see if there is something I'm missing but honestly nothing changed from yesterday when I played it. Everything was fine, I didn't even unplug the wireless transmitter from the guitar I left it on the strap when I put the guitar on the wall hanger.

Has anyone had any issues buying the license for the model packs because i for one would love to give them my money but it just doesn't want to let me lol

So today i powered up the rig to do some jamming and immediately upon taking my DT50 out of standby it starts making a horrific noise like there is a serious ground issue. I proceed into a little bit of a panic mode and shut her down. I let her sit for a bit and turn her back on hoping it was just some kind of fluke but sure enough throw her out of standby and boom hit with the horrific sound again ugh. I left it on this time and turned down the volume so i could troubleshoot. The only things i am running are my Pro and a BBE sonic maximizer through the effects loop of the DT which i run there just so i dont have to worry about it in the chain of the Pro. First thing i try is shutting down the Maximizer and boom sound goes away....awesome non sarcastic because i would rather deal with the fried out maximizer that a messed up head. I take the maximizer out of the rack and proceed to disassemble it to see if there are any noticable caps or anything that are fried but all looks good under the hood so i was at a loss there. After i put it back together i decide to try the last thing i can think of and throw it into the effects loop on the Pro and of course it works flawlessly which means now im back to an issue with the head. With the maximizer running through the Pod everything works as expected so i'm fine for now but that still means there is a problem there. Has anyone else ever had any problems with their effects loop on the amp. I guess the only thing im worried about is maybe it will lead to something worse later on or that it is already a symptom of a larger problem that is starting to come up.

In Monkey it would be under the device firmware header right above flash memory

I just updated without any issues on my Pro but i have been trying to buy the model packs for the last fifteen minutes and it won't let me. It just keeps saying there was a problem.

Well i can tell you i don't think you are crazy. I have a Bogner Unerschall and i have yet to get it to play nice. My setup is a little different, i have the Pro running into a dt50 but the noise is just insane. I wondered if it was a gain stage issue of some sort but everything i have tried has been useless to get rid of it. Everything you stated seems to be the same for me. Whether I run it in the FX loop or i run my guitar into the pedal then into the POD the results are the same. If i run it straight into the DT50 without the POD no noise. I finally just took it out of the rig, did'nt want to fight it anymore. I'm happy with the sounds i can get without it but i realize everyones needs are different. I know this doesn't help much besides to say i think it's not so much an error in settings as it is these pedals hating Pod HDs lol. I may sit down again with it tomorrow see if i can come up with anything. If I discover anything ill post.

Yeah just use the L line in and it works just fine. The R would work fine too but I don't think the tuner works on that side.

lol well i don't really either but they said the KT77s are an EL34 subsitute that aren't supposed to be as compressed. I just figured i would try it and see how it goes. They are deffinately punchier than the stock EL34s. I found that i had to turn the bass down quite a bit along with the DEP controls. I have been rattling stuff off the shelves in the room my amp is in which never happened at the same volume before. when you do a quick hit on a chord you i feel the hit a lot more than before. The highs are a lot tighter than before but im not sure how much of that is the tubes with how cold the bias was set to before the swap. As far as the noise floor I'm not quite sure how to answer. The normal hiss isn't bad in my opinion its quieter than it was before but its still there,but since my patches are usually higher gain by the time everything i want is in the noise is understandably terrible. I usually just have a gate there just to have on while i'm not playing to save my sanity otherwise i turn it off while i'm playing and its not an issue for me. I know its a big point for some people but not so much for me so i haven't really focused so much on that aspect of the swap. I have maybe 20 hours on them so far, so they are a little young yet but they are still goin strong with no problems. I like them a lot better than the stock EH EL34s but i wouldn't say the differences are night and day.

I have done it and as TheRealZap said it really didn't do as much as you think. I experimented with it after they released it with the update just got kicks. Haven't bothered with it since.

I just put a set of jj preamps and a set of jj kt77s in mine and after it was all said and I got like 36.5 and 35.7 out somewhere near there. I haven't had any troubles after the swap so far.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrpcRxX8q1I Hopefully you can use the link. Obviously the videos isn't about him fixing a problem with the ground but it will show you where it should be.

No the tail piece or stop bar whichever way you want to say it. The bar that the ball end of the strings rest in. The wire goes to the stud closest to the pots. At least it does on my les pauls I'm sure it's the same for the sg. The multimeter approach like the other guys said would probably be a good idea before you try to tackle anything.

I should say too that I swore at the time it was a case of bad power given the age of the house but wasn't the case with me though that's always a possibility on your case

Honestly I would check into what pfsmith0 said with the ground going to the tail piece. I had the same thing happen to me it was driving me nuts. Like he said the ground wire is just sent to the bottom tail piece mount and it's supposed to ground against it when it's pressed into the hole. I had to change my strings anyways so I took them off got a rag to protect the finish and a set of side cutters and with the stud still screwed in used the tag as kind of a fulcrum and pried it out. You will see the wire there. I just moved the wire up the best I could so when I reseated it it made a good connection. I did have to do this a couple of times because it kept coming back but since the last time which must have been like four years ago I've had no issues.

Sorry meant to add a reply with that but I guess I don't know how to do it with a phone. Ive been somewhat hesitant to post anything because there is already enough going around about line 6 quality issues. I haven't had any issues with my dt50 whatsoever but I have been really wanted to seal the tubes for awhile and figured before I did so I needed to make sure I knew where the bias probe points where and that I could do this myself . I found the trim pot and the bias points which I found out are a little different on the heads than on the combos. In any case I measured the bias of the stock tubes at 10mv which is way under the 36mv I see is supposed to the correct bias voltage. I guess I'm glad it was running less than more but if mine was that over biased from factory one could be that under biased. I don't want to start another quality debate but it may be something to look into.

And don't forget about the old Fletcher Munson curve! If you don't know what that is I would look that up it very much pertains to us guitarists when setting up it tones.As alienux said your guitar lives in the mid range the bass and treble range is where it starts fighting with other things and starts to get lost. I would still suggest looking the idea up but in short if we are creating our patches at low volumes the mid range is going to seem exaggerated compared to the bass and highs which results in the impulse to either turn the mids down essentially scooping like alienux said or turning the bass and the highs up. When you crank your stuff up to play with the rest of the band our ears perceive the bass and highs more as you get louder which defeats you because now you are fighting with the other pieces of the band. There are two ways around this either A. Create all your patches at band volume-so that when you are actually playing with them everything comes out exactly as you intended. This is how I like to do it though I know it's not feasible for most people due to kids, wives, neighbors,ect. B. If creating at low volumes try and keep your bass and highs lower-might sound like crap but might keep you from falling victim to the curve. I know your question is about balancing volumes but sometimes it's not how loud you are that's killing you from being heard, you just can't be hard because your tone is buried behind everything else in the band. I follow it and have very little issue cutting through on the mix.

The shortboard mkI works just fine with the pro, I have used mine since I got the pro and haven't had any problems. Yes the abcd buttons function as the fs buttons and you can access the looper just fine with the foot switch on the top to the left of the screen. I don't remember how it is labeled at the moment I repainted and relabeled mine awhile back to the new naming scheme. I'm not sure what aspects you miss with the mkI vs mkII but I don't miss them it does everything I need it to.

About a year ago right after I bought mine mine went out during a rehearsal but mine certainly didn't go out silently. It just started making a terrible screeching noise. I threw it into standby for a bit turned it back on and it started doing it again. I powered it off for a couple minutes and when I turned it back on I had nothing. I got really worried that my new amp had taken a digger lol. After about 10 minutes being powered off I powered it back on just for thrills and she acted normal like nothing ever happened. I haven't had a single issue since with her. I don't have anything to solve anything but it's like brazzy said I'm sure it's happened to other people one time or another. I dont worry about it to much I'll cross that bridge later if something happens to it.

to set up your ins and outs in cubase you go to a menu called VST connections why i don't know lol. It sounds like you are pretty much there you are probably just missing something small which usually turns out to ruin everything. just as a double check for you the run down goes like this. go to devices->Device Setup->VST connections go to the drop down at ASIO driver and make sure POD ASIO or what have you is selected and hit apply the go to devices->VST connections go to the input tab i believe it defaults with one stereo track whick will work just fine for now just make sure the box that says device port doesnt say not connected if it does click on that box it should drop doen to show INPUT 1 and INPUT 2 make left INPUT 1 and Right INPUT 2 just for sake of troubleshooting. Go to the outputs tab and do the same making sure that under device port the PODs outs are selected for left and right. Now i think its this part that is getting you. If you play something right here you wont see anything happen on the meter that the track has unless you hit the little speaker icon(i never use this as the latency i get is terrible). An easy way to see if you are getting levels is to go to Devices-> mixer. You will see the track you added and one that says stereo in for the input bus. Now play something, you should see the metter jump on the stereo In bus. If so arm your track and record away. If not Like TheRealZap said there should be videos all over for ya. I just have time to kill before rehearsal and thought if i could help great. I remember when i hobbled along trying to get stuff set up its never fun.

I've done it before. I think I did it before the flip top was available and used the black face model and it very passable. the idea here would be if the speaker sounds stressed then it probably is. low level should be fine though. ii don't think it's the most ideal situation though, if you are just doing it for recording there are some very good free plugins around that might work better for you. Im not the biggest fan of the flip top model I don't really use it

Hmm interesting. well if it was used there is a possibility of the contacts going bad but all of them would be an extreme case. Especially the bank switches, i would imagine they wouldn'y get used as much. I bought mine used a long time ago and have kicked those switches countless times and they all still work fine and it was made back in 2000. I guess another thing i would try is to reflash it and see if that helps. I'm just winging that one because my old brick is to stupid to need that lol. Other than that a new cable is always a good shot. I wish someone else who has the mkII would chime in and help you out, without one in front of me i can't think of anything else to try. I hope you can get this thing figured out. If i come across anything ill chime back.

The only Thing i could think of off the top of my head would be to make sure that the fbv express option is set to off on your POD. The option is on page 2 of your settings menu (press and hold the view button if you didnt know where that was). I have been using the mk I since i got mine without issue so i really wouldnt think yours wouldnt work short of being deffective which i doubt is the case. I hope this helps you figure it out. Having to figure problems out seriously takes away from the playing lol.