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Who Thought This Was A Good Idea? Is It? Broken String Ends In The Vax Guts


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JTV-69, korea

 

Ouch, that's the one I want. Is there a cavity that the string ends keep falling into?

You might have to do something stupid like put tape on the ends or like tissue paper to make sure it doesn't fall out like that. I donno.

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So, for the 69 we have string falling off fretboard edge on high e-string problem (which they "fixed" by filing the fret edge at a slightly steeper angle), tremolo snaps back onto body when all strings are removed, strings fall into electronics cavity when they break, and more subjectively, terrible stock pickups, huge headstock, ugly headstock logo, and ugly top-hat tuning control. Sounds like a bit of a mess. Such a shame, as I am strat guy and would like to get a JTV-Strat, but this 69 is not going to do it for me. Too many physical and aesthetic problems.

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I've never noticed that until now. I just looked in mine and there were two string ends in mine. I don't break strings all that often, so who knows how long they've been there. I guess if there hasn't actually been an issue with them affecting anything by now, it's more of an annoyance than anything. I may look into stuff something into the hole between the trem cavity and the electronics. It looks like they're just sliding down through the hole for the wiring.

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yikes! i figured it was some sloppy factory work... but Phil's is USA, so yikes!

 

I've never noticed that until now. I just looked in mine and there were two string ends in mine. I don't break strings all that often, so who knows how long they've been there. I guess if there hasn't actually been an issue with them affecting anything by now, it's more of an annoyance than anything. I may look into stuff something into the hole between the trem cavity and the electronics. It looks like they're just sliding down through the hole for the wiring.

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yikes is right! i was just inquiring about differences between u.s. and korean models. apparently the quality of materials is better but the design is lacking. i hope the fret work is up to snuff on the u.s. model. for 2x the cost it better be. so, is there a way that the user can fix the broken-string-end-in-the-electronics-cavity problem? i suppose spraying the board with electrical lacquer would prevent shorting, if not already coated.

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Not trying to minimize anything, but I guess this doesn't bother me too much. Like I said, if it's something simple, I may try to block the whole between the cavities, but I break strings so infrequently, I might not mess with it. Given that it's literally been months since I broke a string and these pieces were floating around down there for so long without issue, I think the risk of a short seems pretty minimal. I'm more concerned about the inconvenience of removing the backplate to get to the pieces.

 

It seems that broken strings have a tendency to become a nuisance in floating trem systems. I don't know how many times I've had to poke the ball end out of a Strat trem with a paper clip or something else.

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I guess the lesson here is go find the end if you break a string.  The way the trem on the 69 is designed there has to be a nice big opening to the electronics board so that the wires don't rub on anything.  The string end can easily make it's way through that opening.

 

 

that's not a lesson. that's a workaround.

 

during a gig, I don't have time, in the dark, to ensure that I have every single string break accounted for.

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So, for the 69 we have string falling off fretboard edge on high e-string problem (which they "fixed" by filing the fret edge at a slightly steeper angle), tremolo snaps back onto body when all strings are removed, strings fall into electronics cavity when they break, and more subjectively, terrible stock pickups, huge headstock, ugly headstock logo, and ugly top-hat tuning control. Sounds like a bit of a mess. Such a shame, as I am strat guy and would like to get a JTV-Strat, but this 69 is not going to do it for me. Too many physical and aesthetic problems.

 

Agreed. I LOVE, my Variax 600, it's freaking great. Not the best materials maybe, but it's design and build is great. Only problem I have with it is the crappy plastic nut which gives tuning problems. I need to throw in a TUSQ nut on it someday.

 

I look at the 69, and it just looks really goofy. The body is nice, but the headstock and neck is really lackluster. I like the fender headstock on my 600, the decals look lovely with the Line6 logo on the bottom center and "the Variax" logo on the bottom right where the curve is. Looks stylish, professional.

 

I don't know much about James Tyler, but I know he's supposed to be a highly acclaimed luthier. 

 

This thing with the ball ends falling into the electronic cavity is awful and can short your circuit board if it lands and connects 2 points together. That's not good at all.

All I can suggest is be careful with your broken strings and make sure they don't fall into the cavity. If there's any way to obstruct the strings from falling into the cavity, then try it, ONLY if you know it won't damage your guitar.

 

I don't get why the strings have to be front-loading. My strings go through the trem block on my 600 and they don't fall into the cavity when they break. If anything, they should fall outside of the guitar since there's an opening so you can restring without taking off the tremelo cavity cover.

 

Sorry to hear that you guys are having this problem. 

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I would jump out of a building and slit my throat on the way down if I had to go back to the 600, no offense. even with this issue.

 

In design? I don't mean the entire design, I mean the trem block at most. Personally that and a better headstock is the only thing I want with the 69

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I look at the 69, and it just looks really goofy. The body is nice, but the headstock and neck is really lackluster. I like the fender headstock on my 600, the decals look lovely with the Line6 logo on the bottom center and "the Variax" logo on the bottom right where the curve is. Looks stylish, professional.

 

Hmmmmm... I know this is off topic, but have you ever considered buying a JTV69 and swapping the 600 neck over? It would still be all L6 so the coolest JTV neck swap I have seen IMO, no additional cost for the neck swap (very easy to DIY), and no loss if and when you resell as you could easily put the 69 neck and the 600 neck back on the guitars they came from. Also should be pretty easy to find a 600 neck on ebay cheap if you wanted to keep your 600 intact. Just a thought...

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I use Fender Bullets as my preferred strings on all my guitars with Strat type tremolos, including the JTV-69.



The Fender Bullet end is definitely superior to regular strings. I've been using Fender Bullet strings for decades and when a string breaks, its never at the bullet end.

 

 

Normal String Ball ends 

bullets2.jpg

 

 

Fender Bullet Ends 

bullets1.jpg

 

 

These strings have several benefits for Variax JTV-69  users.

 

The Bullets "sit snug " in the Tremolo Block and are more stable  - which means the guitar is far more stable and stays in tune after whammy bar use.

 

* If a string does break, the possible Loose Bullet end is sufficiently large enough that it would not migrate thru  MY piezo bridge cable pass thru hole and end up in the DSP PC board cavity. (BUT SEE BELOW FOR EXPLANATION WHY)

* The other benefit is the fact that Fender Bullet strings are a "polished" round wound string that allows lower action with less buzz on frets, which improves Alt Tunings and yields fewer sonic anomalies compared to standard round wound strings  - as a MIDI Guitarist, i also prefer Fender Bullets as the polishing yields much less sonic squeaks from my fingers as a change fast jazz chord changes.

 

* Fender Bullet Strings are on all of  Larry Carlton's guitars, and many session players in LA rely on them for cleaner "no finger squeak / no fret buzz " guitar recordings   

 

====================

 

 But back to the topic of this thread - how to prevent ball ends migrating into the JTV-69's  DSP cavity and making sparks and smoke -

 

I suggest all JTV-69 Owners re-visit my old thread on the old forum here:

 

 

JTV-69 Tremolo Setup

(for the JTV-69 "Gen II" models  - Summer 2011 version)          Oct.30, 2011

http://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=9371.msg67477#msg67477

Ask Line 6, and its apparent there remains several opinions on the correct location for the cable ties used on the Variax Piezo Cable Harness.

 

 

In the pic below  - See the cable "pass thru hole" in the JTV-69 body for the two grey piezo bridge cables to pass from the rear tremolo spring cavity to the DSP Board cavity.

 

IMG_3113.jpg  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HIDDEN CABLE TIE

 

What is NOT readily apparent is the "HIDDEN CABLE TIE" on my JTV-69 - LOCATED INSIDE the cable "pass thru hole".

 In the pic below, observe the hidden internal cable tie located out of sight, inside the cable feed thru hole to the DSP board inside the body. Securing these cables properly is mandatory for proper Tremolo operation. If the Piezo bridge cables are not properly managed with tie wraps placed at specific locations, they WILL  create friction as the cables rub against the body and become a constant source of tremolo instability.

 

 

 

P1020019.jpg

 

 

and another pic of this "hidden"  black cable tie!

 

P1020037.jpg

 

This cable tie located inside the cable pass thru hole help minimizes the chance of broken Fender Bullet  ends migrating into the DSP board and causing an electrical short on the Variax DSP board..   

 

But there are no guarantees - if you break a string at the ball end during a gig - and cant immediately change it or find the loose ball end  - I advise unplug the guitar and remove the Variax Battery,  until you can inspect the guitar's DSP board cavity for loose ball ends and replace the string 

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Hmmmmm... I know this is off topic, but have you ever considered buying a JTV69 and swapping the 600 neck over? It would still be all L6 so the coolest JTV neck swap I have seen IMO, no additional cost for the neck swap (very easy to DIY), and no loss if and when you resell as you could easily put the 69 neck and the 600 neck back on the guitars they came from. Also should be pretty easy to find a 600 neck on ebay cheap if you wanted to keep your 600 intact. Just a thought...

 

I actually have thought about that, and I think it would be great. The only problem is that I believe this voids the warranty.

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Looking at that picture above, I wonder if putting some sort of split grommet on the trem side of that hole wouldn't do the trick. It wouldn't have to be tight around the wires going through the hole, but it would close the gap enough so the ball end doesn't get through.

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By the way, those pictures are of the old original bridge wiring design.  Mine is much different (latest since I juts purchased it two weeks ago).  Mine has a much improved routing of the wires to not interfere with the trem.  It would be fairly easy to put some very thin tape around the hole where the wires go from the trem cavity to the electronics cavity to reduce the possibility of a broken string end finding it's way into the elecronics.  You could also mount a little magnet there to capture any string ends.  I had to pull mine apart last night and take a look.  No string ends and I was surprised at how they have changed the trem wiring of the 69.  No cable ties or plastic cable clips.  I will try to take a good picture and post it since it looks way different than anything I have seen posted.  There is no easy to eliminate completely the possibility of a broken string finding it's way out of the trem cavity because the wires have to move freely when you work the trem.  The hole between cavities is fairly large to keep the wires from touching the wood.

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if it was me (i have a 59) at the very least i'd modify a cymbal felt to wrap the wires and fit through the hole...

i'm not rich enough to buy a new variax that one time that the system gets critically shorted.

 

 

That seems like a great solution, actually - cheap and easy. What may be even slightly better is a self-adhesive felt washer to stick on the surface of the trem cavity.

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I actually have thought about that, and I think it would be great. The only problem is that I believe this voids the warranty.

 

If you tried bringing the JTV in for servicing with the 600 neck you might have a problem, BUT if you needed servicing during your warranty period it would be quick and easy to slap the JTV neck right back on the 69 body, have the guitar serviced, and switch the neck again afterward.

 

I dislike the Tyler headstock and think the old 600 neck would improve the 69 aesthetically, and if it plays better as well... why the heck not?

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By the way, those pictures are of the old original bridge wiring design.  Mine is much different (latest since I juts purchased it two weeks ago).

 

 

Please post a pic!

 

FWIW - after my last JTV-69 Line-6 RMA , this is how they delivered it to me in December 2011

1372711238_786268275_P1020002.jpg

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