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Anyone lowered the action on their Jtv69s?


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Same as any other 2-point floating bridge. The guitar should have come with a bunch of allen wrenches. Find the one that fits the bridge posts and crank it down to wherever you want it. Or, you could lower the individual saddles. Depending on how out-of-whack things are, you may need to fiddle with both. You may need to adjust the truss rod as well, and likely the intonation once you've set everything else where you want it. If you're not familiar with set-ups, take it to someone who knows what they're doing. And no, you don't need an "authorized service center"...it's a guitar, and a set-up is a set-up, provided that they know their craft.

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You can adjust each string height with the saddles.  Just like a Strat.  I would not mess with the bridge height.  My 69S was actually set slightly low on the Low E and A strings.  Too much fret buzz.  You do not want much fret buzz (like none) with the modeling.   If you are not confident with a setup take it to a good luthier.  All guitars need a good setup.

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Ok thanks, think I'm going to get a set up, and hopefully that will help. Atm I'm very close to sending it back,Don't know if it's the strings or action or both.

 

But it shreds my fingers after about 5 mins to the point I can't play it any more.

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Ok thanks, think I'm going to get a set up, and hopefully that will help. Atm I'm very close to sending it back,Don't know if it's the strings or action or both.

 

But it shreds my fingers after about 5 mins to the point I can't play it any more.

The JTV's all come with 10's on them...I'm gonna guess that the Std does too. If you're used to 9's, then that it likely your problem.

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"The JTV's all come with 10's on them...I'm gonna guess that the Std does too"--- Yes.

 

"If you're used to 9's, then that it likely your problem"--- Yes. Changing gauges, you should

have the set-up checked and if needed, adjusted.

 

"Seems a little high down at the bridge end.Not sure how to lower it on this model?"---

On a JTV-69, it can be adjusted at the bridge posts and/or, if needed, at the individually.

 

Pick-up distance to strings is important, as magnets pulling on the strings can induce

"warbling" of the strings which get picked-up and amplified while in Model mode.

 

For a proper set-up to specs, it should be taken to your local Line 6 authorized guitar tech.

For Gkf9,... that would be the prior mentioned E & M Electronics or Mark Wright Music.

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Thanks psarkissian

It's a very long way to go from me to the line 6 service centre you mentioned.

 

I'll have to see if someone local can do it? Maybe it's already set up to Line 6 spec? And I just don't like it.

 

If it's not, why are they sent out not set up already?

 

I've only been using 9s recently, but the 10s on the JTV seem really stiff and hurt my fingers big time.

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It was set-up to Line 6 specs for the factory 10-gauge. Changing gauges,

changes the string tension, which changes the set-up. It probably needs to

be adjusted and dialed-in for the 9-gauge set.

 

Ultra-lights will go out-of-tune more often, and a floating bridge makes it more so.

Bare that in mind.

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If it's not, why are they sent out not set up already?

 

I've owned and played more guitars than I could ever count at this point. Everything from cheap Squires to one-off cu$tom$...not a single one was set-up "just right" out of the box. It's impossible. Wood moves. Temperature changes, humidity changes. By the time you get an instrument, weeks, months, and sometimes years have passed since it was "sent out". Stuff sits in warehouses under conditions that are almost guaranteed to be less than ideal for guitars, for God knows how long...In other words, what was or wasn't done to a guitar before it left the factory is basically irrelevant, because it's gonna change long before it gets to you anyway. If it's even half playable the first time you pick it up, it's just dumb luck.
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