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Spider IV , No Sound


Ligoligo1996
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I bough a line 6 spider iv 75 w, in less then 1 month, and when i was playing suddenly the sound went off,  i restarted it and still no sound, i activate the tuning option it get no signal by guitar, the lights are still on, i can still change the presets but i got no sound,
Its very frustrating to have a 1 month new item and having problems like this !!!!

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Have you tried a factory reset?  With the amp off, hold the 'A' button in and turn on the power, keep the button pressed in for about 5 seconds. 

 

Is there any sound from the headphones jack (you would have to plug in headphones)?  Have you tried a different guitar and input cable?

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  • 5 months later...

I am facing the same problem with a spider iv 30 w. My friend was playing and suddenly ... No sound... Nothing working... You can and move any knob and nothing happens...

According to some videos from YouTube maybe the problem is caused by a overheating of the processor of the amp, so you should use some pieces or fan etc to dissipate the heat.

But i am not sure about it when talking about the IV series...

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Hey Leonardo, no need to post the same thing in multiple old threads - start a new one, if you need to.

After 'cooling off' does the amp work again?  If so, then it may be a bad solder joint on the circuit board (no way for you to find it, though).  If not, then it could be an internal fuse.

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  • 3 years later...

Hi, I have the same problem, my Spider 4 150 have no sound, the panel work like a charm, no signal with the tunner activated, do noting, but have sound when apply audio signal by the CD input on the speakers and the headphones, I from integrator U4 CS4227-CZZ, anyone could solve the problem please? 

 

1607403071173527277491.jpg

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  • 6 months later...

Same here, turned on like normal. I always noticed turning on the the amp would do a brief volume spike then mute. With or without the FBV MK II Shortboard attached.

Except now, no sound at all from guitar input. It appears many are facing this problem. One would think there would be a response after so many times of this occurring for so many years now. Really disappointed by modeling amps. It takes a lot of time to setup things for a reliable jam rig. Makes me consider going back to straight solid state amps. I love the Tap loop function and being able to turn FX on and off with the FBV ShortBoard Mk II. Never could get the Wah to work right. I think the activation switch in the ShortBoard is bad.

I'm going to try the Software route and see if anything repairs. But I doubt it. It seems like a system board failure and fairly common to these amps by design. Otherwise we would see answers here. I saw a video of a guy hot wiring to the CD input so that's a major warning to me about board failures. This amp has not been stressed in the least. The jack has not been abused in any way. I'm a veteran player and take a great deal of care. I know how to care for things. Some of my guitars are 35 years old. My 1990 Fender M80 Twin Chorus works great. It's just too loud for home practice.

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Had a similar issue with my 15 watt spider IV, POD X3 Live.  Can't tell you exactly what I was doing when it went out, just that it went from working to not working.... It was extremely muted,   Likely what psarkissan described.  Couldn't get anything to work with the amp and ended up doing a factory reset and that resolve the issue.

 

 How do you soft reset (spider IV 15)?   Or is there a specific way to 6 the mute issue other than hard reset?

 

 Since I the problem, I've changed how wine turn the amp on.   Master volume gets turned to the lowest position, anything plugging into the amp is at its lowest position then I turn the amp off.   Turn the amp on but 1st everything is in its lowest volume position... Haven't had a problem since.

 

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Thanks Psarkissian. Can I just send rack portion of it and save myself the case and speaker weight shipping?

Or can I just physically take it to authorized service center nearby? I'd like the Short Board serviced too.

 

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Okay, I updated the amp to the 2.0 file from original. The mute went away. Amp is working.

Updated from the Monkey interface.

Trying to edit using Line 6 Edit to change my presets names. Interface saved the file and bundle to PC.

When I try to send updates to the amp though it just stays at 0% receiving. Amp user presets names remain unchanged.

What am I doing wrong? I restarted amp and PC. Reconnected using the Line 6 Edit software. Edits now send to amplifier.

Amp mute failures went away. I can now play the amp fine again. Thank you.

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  • 1 month later...

Part not available to end user. It will need to be serviced by a Line 6 authorized service center. If it's burned, then that is a symptom,

changing the main board won't solve it. It will need to be checked for the source cause that got it burn in the first place, or it will do it again.

Get with an authorized service center.

 

https://line6.com/find/service_center/

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's because this amplifier has the nasty tendency to OVERHEAT. There is nothing like heat sinks nor fans to cool the chips on the main board, when the amp starts to overheat it goes in "failsafe mode".

If you haven't installed any solution as fans nor anything that would prevent this amp to overheat and you've overheated your amp too often, chances are that the main board is already fried.

In that case here are the part numbers for the boards :
Main board _ 50-02-0332-1
Power Supply PCB _ 50-02-0336
Power Amp PCB _ 50-02-0335

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EarthSuburb,...

There were a few like that with the Spider III years ago. With Spider IV, the main board would fail for other reasons unrelated to thermal issues.

Having serviced hundreds of Spider IV's, and done my share of thermal checks for such things, the typical fail mode was what I eluded to above

in a prior response relating to power amp mute or amp chip failure.

 

Some Spider II amps had a couple of chips with thermal issues on the main board, that was dealt with and solved in the Spider IV, along with a couple

of other things I pressed engineering about during the Spider IV design process.

 

Any thermal issue would not occur on the main board, but can occur on the amp board, if driven too hard for the amp power to venue space being played in.

A Spider IV 75 is fine for a garage band, too small for Madison Square Garden. Cranking a 75 up there will definitely blow something.

 

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On 8/18/2021 at 12:08 PM, psarkissian said:

EarthSuburb,...

There were a few like that with the Spider III years ago. With Spider IV, the main board would fail for other reasons unrelated to thermal issues.

Having serviced hundreds of Spider IV's, and done my share of thermal checks for such things, the typical fail mode was what I eluded to above

in a prior response relating to power amp mute or amp chip failure.

 

Some Spider II amps had a couple of chips with thermal issues on the main board, that was dealt with and solved in the Spider IV, along with a couple

of other things I pressed engineering about during the Spider IV design process.

 

Any thermal issue would not occur on the main board, but can occur on the amp board, if driven too hard for the amp power to venue space being played in.

A Spider IV 75 is fine for a garage band, too small for Madison Square Garden. Cranking a 75 up there will definitely blow something.

 

 

Hey, I love that a Line 6 expert answers questions here, but your example of 'cranking up the amp'??  That makes no sense.  The 75 has a maximum volume attainable, and it should not make a difference if you have channel volume and master volume on 10 or not as to what the amp can attain for volume - whether you are in a garage or an arena.  Of course throwing a big boost on the input to get more volume can present issues - but typically this would fry the input circuit, right?

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21 hours ago, psarkissian said:

Fry the input,... yes, possible. Don't see that much, somewhat rare. Doing something that blows the output

amp chips is more common,... in spite of protection circuitry.

 

Only way you could do that would be to hook up a wrong impedance load, right? Like hooking up a ~2 ohm load (instead of 4 ohms), like putting 2 4-ohm speakers in parallel (stupid way to increase volume!)

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Some do, unfortunately.

Crank it up to where it pushes the limits of the speaker(s). Typically have to check those whenever the power amp chip blows,

just to be certain the speaker isn't damaged. Always someone who wants to get more out of it than it was designed to give.

See that all too often on my repair bench.

 

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On 8/19/2021 at 10:12 PM, fflbrgst said:

 

Hey, I love that a Line 6 expert answers questions here, but your example of 'cranking up the amp'??  That makes no sense.  The 75 has a maximum volume attainable, and it should not make a difference if you have channel volume and master volume on 10 or not as to what the amp can attain for volume - whether you are in a garage or an arena.  Of course throwing a big boost on the input to get more volume can present issues - but typically this would fry the input circuit, right?

As a matter of fact, these amps don't like to be played at high volume for a reasonable amount of time (1.5 or 2 hours).
For instance, the tape which sticks the power amp integrated circuit to the casing (like any other heat sink tape) will deteriorate with time and won't be as efficient as new heat sink tape to transfer heat and cool down the power amp integrated circuit, so you also have to take care about that issue. It would have been better to have the power amp integrated circuits screwed to the heat sinks (or casings) with thermal paste in between to maximise heat dissipation, but, drilling and thread tapping holes, and screws, all that is extremely expensive as you can imagine (just kidding). And the name of the game is "get a taste of it" then buy the latest thing (that you'll eventually have to replace a couple of years later).

I have both the Spider IV 75, and the Spider IV 150 2x12.
They both failed. The Spider IV 75 had its mainboard dying, and I got the Power Amp PCB (16€) and Power Supply PCB (12€) replaced as a "prophylactic measure".
The Spider IV 150 2x12 also has a major issue: the Power Amp Section for the Left Loudspeaker doesn't work anymore.
The Spider IV 150 "SEEMS" to be a MONO amplifier, but its mono signal output "SEEMS" to be split to feed 2 Power Amp Sections, each feeding its own Loudspeaker ... And I said it "SEEMS" to be that way. I haven't read any clear answer about that subject from Line 6 yet (maybe that it's here somewhere, but I didn't spend enough hours of paging through the "support forum" to find it).
Anyway, when I started inspecting the Spider IV 150 to find out what is wrong with the Left Loudspeaker, I 1st swapped the Left Loudspeaker with the Right one to find out that both Loudspeakers were working fine, but nothing was feeding the Left Output coming out of the Power Amp Section. Then I checked the Power Amp PCB, and after carefully disassembling it (you start by disassembling the heatsink from the casing, it's easier that way) I found out that the STICKER supposed to have one of both of the Power Amp Integrated Circuits (STMicroelectronics TDA7293) adhere to the heatsink had dried out and wasn't sticking anymore. Is it the cause of one "STMicroelectronics TDA7293" dying on me? DON'T KNOW!
But the result is 2 amps with roughly 10 years of age, and not a lot of "heavy duty" use, either dying or defect. And we're quite a lot to have similar experiences with these amps.
You need to trust Mr "psarkissian" when he says "Having serviced hundreds of Spider IV's".
I guess I'll have to order some more parts from my Official Service Centre (located hundreds of miles away from me), 'cause I won't pay the price of a new amp in shipping for Service ... and for a used amp which is "practically" discontinued. I think I'll start with the Power Amp PCB, and the Power Supply PCB, hoping and praying that nothing has happened to the Mainboard.

 

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  • 1 month later...

I just had the same problem with my Spider IV 75....no sound from the guitar, however the cd/mp3 input has sound through the speaker & headphones. I tried the factory reset...no luck. When I hooked up to the Spider Edit software and reloaded my saved settings, the amp now works! Only time will tell for how long. Psarkissian, do you have an explaination as to why after reloading the saved settings that the amp would start working again? Perhaps my experience will benefit someone else. As I use my Spider IV to play along with backing tracks, if it is a momentary fix I should know soon. I love the amp, and will be sad when it breathes it's last note.

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