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One for those who've repaired and/or replaced Helix micro-switches


boynigel
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So after 19 months of relatively heavy use of my current LT, my #9 foot switch started to only work intermittently.  I’d experienced this a few years back when I had the Floor unit, so I was familiar with the process of cleaning the internal micro switches. 

 

When I opened the LT up, it was immediately apparent, visually, which switch was #9 as it was coated with black dust.  FS#8 was pretty gross too but wasn’t malfunctioning…yet.  All the other micro switches looked brand new in comparison to the dirty ones, which makes sense considering that 8 & 9 are my Snapshots 1 & 2 switches and see the most use out of all the switches.  Anyway, they ALL got cleaned while I was in there, and now everything’s back to normal.

 

I’m wondering if anyone else has any theories regarding how the black dust forms, and here’s mine:

Those little black T-shaped pieces w/the circular heads that are the contact points for the micro switches and are seated in the springs for each foot switch…maybe the black dust is from them (very) slowly eroding over time with every press of a given foot switch?  If the T-thingies are indeed the culprit, too bad they couldn't have used a more resilient material.

 

I could be wrong, but I don’t think its dirt coming in from outside of the unit because when I blew out the spring housing area of every other foot switch there was NO dirt/dust.  At the end of the day this is a pretty simple fix that I can live with having to deal with every year and a half, but what happens when the micro switch has gotten clogged one too many times and needs replacement?

 

I did purchase a bag of microswitches to have on hand for when this time comes.  Has anyone here tackled replacement of one of these?  Specifically I’m wondering how exact the height placement of the new switch needs to be before soldering, or if the travel range and “give” of the spring and T-shaped plunger offer a little “forgiveness” as to the height of the switch.  It seems like it ideally needs to be a one shot, one kill scenario where you don’t want to have solder/de-solder any more than you must.

 

Can anyone speak from experience?

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Hi. Search the forum.  All Line 6 button mechanisms are garbage. Helix is less horrendous than other products. 

 

The black dust is from the foam. Helix Floor has more foam than the LT, as a result it is more susceptible to this issue. I have a theory that with time this foam becomes more tacky and less flaky, so the problem goes away after a couple years. 
 

I cleaned tactile switches with liquid DeoxIT, and it lasted for 2.5 years.  After that I had to do it again—this time I did it without taking the Helix apart (not recommended)!!.  I angled the Helix so that the buttons would be perpendicular to the floor, added a generous amount of contact cleaner and let it drip down each button: about 4 applications. Then I waited for 2 hours, then pressed each button, and then vacuumed each button to get the excess contact cleaner out. I kept wiping the contact cleaner off the buttons and kept vacuuming until they were dry. It fixed the issue. Most people will say that it’s a crazy thing to do, but I did not feel like taking my LT apart again. And guess what?  All buttons are as smooth as butter once again.  I’m using my LT regularly since 2019 and everything works 100%  
 

Use the liquid contact cleaner because it leaves no mess.  It’s nonconductive, so it cannot damage anything. At most it can attract dust if you really flood the pcb with it. 
 

I’ve fixed my Helix LT and Pod Go. 

 

Below is my video for the Pod Go.  On Helix, you need to take it apart, which you have already done. 
 

 

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On 12/2/2024 at 4:17 PM, theElevators said:

Hi. Search the forum.  All Line 6 button mechanisms are garbage. Helix is less horrendous than other products. 

 

The black dust is from the foam. Helix Floor has more foam than the LT, as a result it is more susceptible to this issue. I have a theory that with time this foam becomes more tacky and less flaky, so the problem goes away after a couple years. 
 

I cleaned tactile switches with liquid DeoxIT, and it lasted for 2.5 years.  After that I had to do it again—this time I did it without taking the Helix apart (not recommended)!!.  I angled the Helix so that the buttons would be perpendicular to the floor, added a generous amount of contact cleaner and let it drip down each button: about 4 applications. Then I waited for 2 hours, then pressed each button, and then vacuumed each button to get the excess contact cleaner out. I kept wiping the contact cleaner off the buttons and kept vacuuming until they were dry. It fixed the issue. Most people will say that it’s a crazy thing to do, but I did not feel like taking my LT apart again. And guess what?  All buttons are as smooth as butter once again.  I’m using my LT regularly since 2019 and everything works 100%  
 

Use the liquid contact cleaner because it leaves no mess.  It’s nonconductive, so it cannot damage anything. At most it can attract dust if you really flood the pcb with it. 
 

I’ve fixed my Helix LT and Pod Go. 

 

Below is my video for the Pod Go.  On Helix, you need to take it apart, which you have already done. 
 

 

Thanks, good info and i've seen some of your videos.  i'm a little skeptical on foam being the culprit because:

 

1) the foam isn't on the receiving end of any friction which would cause it to flake

2) the little T-pieces that sit between the springs and the micro-switches appear to always be in contact with the little buttons on the micro-switches, which means that they could act as shields to any would-be foam flakes getting onto the surface of the micro-switch buttons.

 

This is just my theory on that, and i could certainly be wrong.

 

 

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My 6 year old LT has had one "complete" microswitch cleaning. That was about 2 years ago, and it's still going strong. The entire process took me about an hour... so I can't complain over the level of required maintenance I've had to endure. On the contrary, I have bags of BOSS microswitches from a variety of units. I use to have to replace those puppies on a regular basis. 

 

I wouldn't dismiss the foam theory, but outside contaminants will certainly find their way in as well. On the LT, the EXP area is a clear point of entry. Combine some humidity with some dust/dirt particles and cleaning becomes inevitable over time.

 

Just my 2 cents... based on "my" experience with them. 

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On 12/2/2024 at 8:41 PM, codamedia said:

but outside contaminants will certainly find their way in as well. On the LT, the EXP area is a clear point of entry. Combine some humidity with some dust/dirt particles and cleaning becomes inevitable over time.

 

Just my 2 cents... based on "my" experience with them. 

i agree that the EXP area is a potential port of entry for dirt, but the inside of my 19-month old LT was pretty darned clean, the exception being the very dirty FS9 and FS8 micro-switches, which couldn't be much further from the EXP pedal.  not saying this to pick an argument but rather just to have the details out there for anyone who comes across this post in the future.  any and all dirt on the two aforementioned micro-switches came from that very area.  i'm still suspicious of the aforementioned T-thingamajigs being the source of the dirt via "erosion" over time...either that or the dirt is coming in via the exterior foot switches themselves...or maybe a bit of both?

 

BTW- 6 years is a hell of a run, lucky you.  i keep a very clean house, yet i've had two units that i've had to clean micro switches on within a year and a half for both!

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