theElevators

The rubber feet are attached with screws. So just remove the screws, take off the rubber feet and put the screws back.

You can run remote desktop on your mobile device :) while having your computer be physically connected to your Helix.

I have a video from a few years ago. You may find it useful.

If you want to tune your guitar and mute the looper at the same time--that's not possible. You can mute the looper by having a different snapshot where it's muted though. You can accomplish it in many ways, including assigning the "return" volume to snapshots. Or have a volume pedal at the end of your chain, where you can turn down your volume before tuning.

Make sure your blank (aka just guitar signal) presets are as loud as your actual presets. That’s the rule of thumb. Otherwise you get digital clipping.

You can also change the color of the ring. See my video how to do that. You can even see the name of the snapshot that you can change while saving. This is a lot easier to do in HX Edit, as people have been mentioning. I don’t tweak anything on the Helix itself, unless it’s during a sound check.

I believe it’s an issue with HX Edit. And L6 promised to release a hotfix for it. Please raise a ticket with Line 6 support about it to make sure they are aware as well.

Hi. Search the forum. All Line 6 button mechanisms are garbage. Helix is less horrendous than other products. The black dust is from the foam. Helix Floor has more foam than the LT, as a result it is more susceptible to this issue. I have a theory that with time this foam becomes more tacky and less flaky, so the problem goes away after a couple years. I cleaned tactile switches with liquid DeoxIT, and it lasted for 2.5 years. After that I had to do it again—this time I did it without taking the Helix apart (not recommended)!!. I angled the Helix so that the buttons would be perpendicular to the floor, added a generous amount of contact cleaner and let it drip down each button: about 4 applications. Then I waited for 2 hours, then pressed each button, and then vacuumed each button to get the excess contact cleaner out. I kept wiping the contact cleaner off the buttons and kept vacuuming until they were dry. It fixed the issue. Most people will say that it’s a crazy thing to do, but I did not feel like taking my LT apart again. And guess what? All buttons are as smooth as butter once again. I’m using my LT regularly since 2019 and everything works 100% Use the liquid contact cleaner because it leaves no mess. It’s nonconductive, so it cannot damage anything. At most it can attract dust if you really flood the pcb with it. I’ve fixed my Helix LT and Pod Go. Below is my video for the Pod Go. On Helix, you need to take it apart, which you have already done.

I can attest to that. This particular FRFR has a hole for the stand to get it off the ground. That's how it was designed to be used. Either put it on a stand, or even on top of something else, like a chair, or a transport case for an amp, and it will make a ton of difference.

Do you have HX Edit running and is your Helix connected with a cable to the computer?

If you haven't done the factory reset followed by restoring form your backup, you should do that.

You mean the output Left / Right? Electric will come out of the left side, and acoustic on the right side? In that case, go to the last block in your chain, the output block. There you can specify the output gain and stereo panning. In HX Edit, click on that last block in your chain--it's always in every one of your presets, it's mandatory. Set the stereo panning to 100% left or 100% right. You're done.

You can create your own wah by taking a 10-band EQ, and assigning various frequencies to the expression pedal, same thing.

These videos are so comically predictable. Washy guitar noodling garbage full of delay and reverb This video is brought to you by TrueFire Washy guitar noodling garbage full of delay and reverb {British accent} explaining why the Helix is dead Washy guitar noodling garbage full of delay and reverb {British accent} explaining why the Helix is the greatest piece of equipment ever created ... etc.

I'm not the dumbest person, but for some reason I could not register LT when I got it 5 years ago. My serial number was just weird. I wound up opening a support ticket, and sending a picture of the serial number, and they did registered it for me.

No, it will just remove the amp/cab from the signal. And for that reason I never bothered with this for my live on-stage monitor mix. Because the delays will sound completely different.

Here's the complete summary of what I've posted on this forum many times: Lots of bands have been running their guitars in stereo for the last 20+ years in a 5,000-seat theater or smaller. Unless you are talking about an arena or a stadium, running guitars in stereo is actually desirable, as it offers benefits such as "non-clashing" with other signals that are mixed in. Stereo sound is easier in terms of mixing, as you can SLIGHTLY pan instruments left/right, so they would not all be clashing together. I'm not making this up, several pro sound guys told me they prefer stereo guitar signals. If you are playing at a stadium, very few mixing engineers will run a stereo mix. Maybe just a few times during an entire show as an exception to the rule, for some kind of a special effect. Stadiums are difficult with the sound distribution to begin with, the last thing you need to worry about is stereo mixes. And there is no easy way to decide, which side is left, which side is right, otherwise you will deprive half of the stadium of sound when you do this, and the mix will only sound good if you are sitting dead in the middle. The distance from the left and the right sides is just too great in a stadium, compared to a theater. What exactly do I do in terms of stereo mix in my presets? I mostly just have ping-pong stereo delay in the majority of my core sound. A few songs have very exaggerated left/right delay but only in a few sections. But I dialed it in so that both sides of the concert venue will be getting the same amount of information, and no side would get more musical notes than the other side. For that reason I added my delays in parallel. I play a note, it is heard in the middle, then it is followed by a repeat on the left, then on the right. Other ways I use the stereo mix is with stereo panning on some little fills/solos, but nothing crazy that would make one side silent, while the other one is blaring. For example, I have one song where when I rock the wah pedal, the sound pans left/right, but not 100% left/right. Another example is one of the songs has a chaotic ending, and I have the tremolo with left/right panning. These are just special effects that I use very rarely compared to my main core sound. I go: stereo to FOH via 2 XLRs (L/R) and mono for my personal monitor mix via 1/4" L. I need to feel the guitar chugging, so I run my monitor mix into Mooer Baby Bomb 30W power amp connected to a speaker of a combo amp, or my own 12" speaker cab. If the combo amp has the speaker hard-wired, I go into the return of it, if there is a return. Otherwise as the last resort, I just plug into the combo amp on the cleanest setting. I prefer a single 12" speaker, it just has the best focus and clarity for me. I absolutely avoid 4x12 speaker cabs, or Marshall amps. They just make the sound on stage too loud, while simultaneously not being able to hear what the heck I'm playing, and the sound guys always ask me to turn it down... while I cannot hear anything. My XLRs are at fixed mic level, and the 1/4" is at line level, allowing me to adjust the stage volume loudness with the volume knob. I have it dialed in so that if the volume knob is on around 2, it's my home base. I usually make slight adjustments to have more/less stage volume within the first couple of songs. I do not remove the amp/cab sim from my personal monitor mix, because otherwise the delays which are post amp/cab would be difficult to set up. I just run the same exact mix to both a physical amp and FOH, as lots of people do. I typically do not use the Global EQ, but sometimes if the venue is small and the on-stage amp interferes with the mix, I may dial out certain frequencies with the guidance of the sound guy. The GE would only be applied to 1/4" mix. A few times when the stage setup is more amateurish, I went in mono to FOH. Helix sums your signal to mono automatically, no need for any adapters. In fact, if you have an adapter that adds left + right signals, the signal may become hotter and start to distort. This is something I discovered a few years ago. On the Helix I have been experiencing a bug where 1/4" Left/Mono doesn't immediately sum both sides, until you plug something into the right side momentarily, then unplug. Some people have experienced the same software bug with the XLRs as well. I have had to do this plugging/unplugging since the beginning of owning the Helix. On 3.7 firmware, that issue seems to have been fixed, but I still verify that everything is summing correctly by using a "Sound Check" preset that has exaggerated ping-pong stereo delay. Before I start playing a show, I always make sure to verify that left + right are summed correctly. I know what it's supposed to sound like, so if I don't hear the familiar delay sound pattern, I know something is wrong.

ummmm. yes?

No, there is no such thing on the Helix. There is something like that on HX One, called "flux". Exactly what you are describing. People were hoping this functionality would be ported into the Helix firmware. What you can do instead (which you are probably aware of): 1. un-bypass your flanger block in a specific snapshot 2. assign the mix parameter to the expression pedal. Or if you want your flanger in all snapshots, then remove the snapshot bypass assignment, and instead assign the bypass to the expression pedal. If the pedal is > 0%, it will be un-bypassed. This way you can gradually mix in and mix out your flanger.

If you followed the procedure of resetting to factory settings, then importing your presets/Global Settings, then this is definitely an HX Edit bug. Open up a ticket with Line 6 support. There was a note in the release notes that they will issue an update for HX Edit, as some global settings are not exported/imported. Back in 3.17, HX Edit had a bug where you make changes to one preset, and other unrelated ones get the same change as well. It's software. It will have bugs: old ones fixed, new ones introduced. One way to not have this adventure is to not rush updating your Helix and waiting a few weeks for dust to settle. If you are a musician who relies on the Helix to make a living, updating right away is a crazy thing to do, or updating anything as soon as the update is available for that matter: computer, tablet, etc. I work in Clinical Trials. Some of our big clients wait for years before upgrading. And before they do, they run entire validations that take several months, to make sure everything is exactly as they expect. With the Helix, let the eager people find all the bugs first, then you can upgrade. Just keep checking the forum lol You can always downgrade, or try downloading the preset, then importing that one preset only, rather than copy/pasting. Exporting/importing just one preset is annoying, but doesn't take too long.

Add a compressor. I like to put one between the amp and the cab. It makes notes more sustainy, which happens naturally when you are playing next to a giant wall of Marshalls.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCWALHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Got this USB cable 5 years ago, and it's been absolutely fine all these years. It's also longer than what the Helix comes with, that way I connect it from my laptop to where my Helix is located on the floor several feet away. Pretty sure mine's 16 ft long.

If you suffer from GAS, rather than buying new gear, just completely re-do your signal chain with a new amp, that you hadn't used before. Just start completely from scratch. Do that. I do that with every new project that I do--just try to come up with something new and exciting from the "vast plethora" of bells and whistles. I'm really amused by the anger that 3.8 wasn't full of features like previous updates. Before Line 6 and Kemper started regularly updating the firmware, people would buy a piece of gear and use it as it was for years, with very rare exceptions whenever a bug needed to be fixed. I have 2006 Nord Electro 2 keyboard, for example... it came with firmware loaded onto it. I still use it with that original firmware. Ain't broke, no need to fix it. Meanwhile, Helix has gotten so much stuff since 2015. I think people have been spoiled, really. I was on 3.11 for the longest time because I didn't need anything new, as I was playing the same songs for which I had built my presets. But then I decided to recreate one of my Pod Go preset on the Helix, and realized that it didn't have that one reverb block that really made the song. So only then I finally updated my firmware to 3.7. And I have no desire to upgrade to 3.8 just for the sake of upgrading. I especially don't see the need for all these specific flavors of amps/distortions/cabinets. All amps can be tweaked to sound like anything you want, especially digital models of them. You can put compressors, EQ between amp and cab and create something that doesn't exist in the physical world.

The only thing that could have been a cool addition would be the "flux" feature. Or some kind of a timed engagement of a snapshot/effects. For example, you want to take a solo, so you press a button, walk up to the front of the stage, and the switching occurs after 3 seconds. Otherwise, the Helix has been a complete package as far as I'm concerned for a while. Time for Helix 2.0.