Leaderboard

I have a preset with a one switch looper and I press once nothing happens. I pressed the second time it starts to record and a second later it stops. At one point I had put in a midi command so that when I hit a different foot switch, it would stop the looper. I've been jumpering the midi in to the midi out so that it could trigger the stop command. It worked for a while and then it started doing this behavior that I stated above. I've tried deleting this. I tried clearing all the commands. I disconnected the mid in and out, but it keeps doing it. I have no idea how to fix this. If I start a brand new preset, it actually works correctly. Don't want to have to re-create all the presets that I've put in, but I can't figure out how to get this to work right again. I also have to log a complaint or suggestion however, you wanna look at it. In the list of looper commands we don't have a simple stop or a simple play. We have play/stop, which is not the same thing. Many times I perform solo and I have a basic sound then I hit the looper record a loop then I hit a different snapshot to get a lead sound but when I come back and hit the basic sound again I want the loop to stop as well as switch back to my other sound. Had this working for many years on the old helix and I'm very surprised that this command is now deleted from the new unit. Unit sounds great though LOL

I got my HX One yesterday and went to try it out last night. I have it set up in pre/post on my pedalboard. It all works as it should, but when I have the HX One in my signal chain it is adding terrible noise to some of my drive pedals - so much so that they are unusable. Using the noise gate on the HX One makes no difference and I am not sure how to remedy it. I took the HX One out of the chain again to check that it wasn't anything else causing interference and everything is fine. I would love to remedy this as I really like the HX One otherwise. If I can't fix the issue then I will have to return the HX One. Does anyone have any ideas as to help? Thanks

.php es no bueno.

Some time ago I submitted feedback requests for the heel-down tuner as well as reversing the colors of the scribble strips, but for anybody else who thinks these are important issues to be addressed I suggest that you chime in as well as it may help to move a solution higher on the to-do list. I'm really surprised that there aren't more people barking about the brightness of the display because they are next to impossible to see outdoors. At the full brightness setting, the active scribble strips are barely legible, and the dimmed inactive scribble strips washout completely. My guess is that the brightness cannot be increased without burning out the OLEDs, however simply reversing the colors would make them much easier to see. My suggestion was to reverse the color of the active scribble strips for higher visibility. The inactive strips would have the text illuminated on a black background, but the brightness would be increase to full intensity so that they can be seen. better Something like the attached image. It would also be nice to have an option to separate the tuner from the tap tempo button. I set all of my time-based effects to the tempo and its too easy to accidentally double-tap the tuner button when activating the tuner, in which case the tempo is changed to some random value. Moving the tuner to the heel-down position of the expression pedal is a very logical way to activate it. Volume goes down, tuner goes on. My Boss GT-1000 is setup this way. Some people might be happy with the shared tuner/tap tempo button which is fine, but it would be easy enough to give us an option for activating the tuner in another manner.

Now that you've excluded the power supply from the list of possible causes two things come to mind that you can give a try: 1) You mentioned you reseated the "main" ribbon cable. The HX Effects actually contains two primary ribbon cables: The wide main ribbon cable connecting the main processor board to the display/footswitch board. A smaller, secondary ribbon cable that specifically routes power and control data to the upper scribble strip/LCD assembly. If the main processor tries to boot, queries the secondary display board, and receives a short circuit or no response due to a bad connection, the bootloader will crash and force a reset loop. Open it back up. Disconnect both ribbon cables. Clean the gold contact fingers on the ends of the cables using 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a Q-tip. Ensure they are seated absolutely straight and deeply into their Molex plastic collars before locking them down. 2) Because you just did an update while the unit was in a semi-broken state, it is possible there is a corrupted global settings file or "problem preset" causing a boot crash. Even with blank screens, you can force a hardware reset using the physical switches: Turn the unit OFF. Press and hold Footswitch 6 (top right switch) and the TAP switch simultaneously. Turn the unit ON while holding those down. Keep holding them for about 10-15 seconds. If it successfully clears the state, the boot loop might stop, allowing the displays to spring back to life. Good luck finding the cause of the issue, share if you find it.

Got an HX One this weekend and the white noise is unbearable with a distortion pedal after it or in the loop. Tried several distortion pedals including a DOD 250 which is pretty basic. I sent it back. I don't know if it's a "batch" problem or an inherent design flaw but the pedal isn't usable in this scenario. It's a shame because there's so much potential.

Same here I'm afraid. Mine arrived yesterday. In front of amp it's very quiet. In the FX loop of my Rockerverb it's also quiet. 4CM using the HX One FX loop it adds an annoying level of hiss. I've messed around switching out cables and etc, it's definitely the HX One. The exact same setup with other pedals switched in in place of the HX One are silent. I'm using a CIOKS DC7 but I've also tried with the included power adapter. It's there in bypass and the gate doesn't deal with it. I've looked at the settings and there's nothing in the globals that affects the noise. It's not a deal breaker as I find using 4CM a pain live, but I was hoping it would work out for home use using the insert loop. I wonder if there's a batch that have this issue, or if simply that the users reporting quiet units aren't using the insert loop and 4CM.

Hi together, I just got my HX One. I wanted to use it with my BluGuitar Amp1 as well, but I got a bunch of Problems: - When connecting in 4 cable Method, and using True bypass Mode, my Amp1 Preamp gets bypassed, too. So its absolutely useless. In addition to that, it gets even more noisy when connecting in 4 cable method - I noticed some „crackling“ noise in the Effects, especially when playing quiet or clean things So far, it seems that its going back. Maybe some FW Updates will fix this?

Got the same problem chain is: guitar - HXone (pre) - Boss SD-1 - JCM800(cranked pre-amp) - Chorus - HXone (post) - dalay - return. I don't have the problem without the HXone so my quess is that the HXone's noise is just loud enough to get really fking noisy when going to a SD-1 and cranked JCM. It would be nice if Line6 is responding to this problem :)

Exactly the same here ... wanted to make myself a x-mas present ... big disappointment. Running it in 4CM into a Bluguitar Amp1. Crazy that Line6 did not remedy this for good (HX Effects had the prob back in 2019 or so ...). It needs to go back I am afraid. Any useful reply from Line6??? https://youtu.be/MvNk86m8VXc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giKZXMwU0yc