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Go to The Gear Page>Digital and Modeling Gear. Search for posts by Digital Igloo. He is THE BOSS (aka Eric Klein - Chief Product Design Architect). He has repeatedly said "Not this year. Probably not next year either." That's the best you're going to get on the subject. Buy what you want now. You might not be here tomorrow.

HX Edit is probably an older version. When you open HX Edit and you are connected to the hardware, the screen shows the HARDWARE version number. To see the version number of HX Edit you need to go to "Help > About HX Edit" Then it pops up a window showing the HX Edit version.... it needs to be equal, or greater than the hardware version. If you have updated HX Edit and the new amps/effects are not showing up... then the opposite has happened. You didn't update the hardware!

A few ideas... Acoustically, there's a huge amount of interaction with a room, which acts as a filter. It will emphasize certain frequencies that Stomp won't emphasize on its own. So, carefully analyze the frequency response you hear acoustically that you like, and try to nail those same characteristics with the parametric EQ. A room also acts like a complex delay line that's heavy on the early reflections. Of course, a live venue will add its own reflections, but it may be that some very short delays (e.g., the ambience block) would supplement the reflections that the venue is adding. Because of this interaction with your room environment, when you move your head even the slightest bit you're experiencing stereo phase and level changes. It's hard to fake this with a guitar processor but subtle chorusing at a very slow speed can help the guitar seem more "alive." Some pickups have resonances that bring out weird midrange frequencies. Frankly the notch response on the Helix parametric isn't that great, but try creating as narrow a midrange notch as possible, and sweep it slowly in the midrange to see if that helps even out the sound more. Good luck! Hope this helps.

What did Jeffrey Dahmer say to Lorena Bobbit? . … . . You gonna eat that?

Go with 1/4" Out -> GI100 -> FOH to block the board's phantom power.

That is true - or rather not relevant as you'd typically feed a DI box with the 1/4 out anyway. Whatever, what I was doing back in my HX Floor days (apart from using a phantom power blocker at first, but that was annoying as it actually required phantom power to work, for whatever reasons...) was using the XLR out to feed my monitor while sending the 1/4 out the FOH way, running into a DI box first. Fortunately, these days I don't have to deal with questionable XLR outs anymore...

AFAIK, DI boxes are designed to BLOCK phantom power from the board to the connected gear: https://gearspace.com/board/audio-student-engineering-production-question-zone/929317-di-measure-protection-phantom-power.html

I'm not sure I understand everything that you are asking, but here goes: 1) First, the FX Loop should be set to INSTRUMENT Level in Global settings. Second, IMO, dirt pedals don't sound good when used in FX Loops. By the time the guitar signal hits the pedal it has already undergone two digital conversions AD at Helix Input and DA at FX Loop SEND, then another AD returning to the main signal chain and another DA when exiting Helix to the power amp/speaker. Add another complete DA/AD conversion if there's a second FX Loop involved. Something gets lost in translation when using dirt pedals. Also, there's a small amount of noise in the FX Loops which is amplified by the dirt pedal. It's not much, but all things considered, your dirt pedals are better off placed between your guitar and the Helix Input. Someone is bound to jump in here and say "It sounds fine to me!" and all I can say is try both methods and judge for yourself. Note that placing any pedal between guitar and Helix that's not TRUE BYPASS will load the guitar's pickups to the pedal's Input (usually 1M) and negate the benefit of the Auto Impedance function of your Helix. This only matters if you're using Helix FX that are other than 1M, such as certain Fuzzes. You can get a pdf which shows the impedances (and much more) of Helix FX here (THANKS to @PerSfor this excellent resource!): https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3ye2g1okvx18ypsww746w/Line6-Helix-Model-and-DSP-Summary-3.80.pdf?rlkey=8ygh0iqax8ewds0i3yn0nxc86&e=1&dl=0 2) If you're asking about switching between your amp's preamp section in 4cm and bypassing it to use Helix Amp Sims, place the FX Loop Block next to the Helix Amp Sim in the signal chain. Assign both to the same FS and SAVE the preset with one ON and the other OFF. Each press of the FS will bypass one or the other.

Hi, Yes it is possible, if you follow the advice given by @theElevators in the post above. As the HXFX has 2 EXP inputs, it may be simpler to add a couple of cheap M-Audio EXP pedals to control Wah and Vol independently. Hi, AFAIK, the Mission SP1-L6H is not suitable for use with the HXFX. The switch makes it viable only for the Rack and Stomp units. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Here we go again - if Line 6 have anything in development, they never reveal it until it’s ready to hit the streets. People comment that Helix is almost 10 years old, but that’s just the external hardware - see the video with Digital_Igloo below. Plus, people seem to forget that even though the Helix is approaching 10 years old, it actually started development way back in 2008. A little history from Eric on the 5th anniversary of the Helix launch, below. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Glad it’s working for you. Enjoy!

Use HX Edit to export your preset file. The filetype will be *.hlx; note the destination folder. Then make another post in this thread. Below your text you will see a paper clip icon. Select the hlx file to attach it to your post.

THIS is why it works so well if you go direct to the mixing board in a live setting.

So, on the UI Screen, select the Volume Block. Press and Hold the Position knob. Page RIGHT. Set the MIN/MAX Values as needed. Don't forget to SAVE the preset.

So The first thing (I think) you should set up is your display with stomp + snapshot (each on a row) using Global setting -> footswitches -> preset mode switches -> "Stomp/snap" or "Snap/stomp". You'll have your snapshots on the first row ans the 2nd row in stomp mode or Stomp on first row and snap on second. That's your choice Then via command center you can assign each stomp switches with specific commands: In my example I'll give you some parameter to set on the second row, switches 1 to 3 Switch 1: Knob 1: "HX Looper" -> Knob 2: Function "Record" Switch 2: Knob 1: "HX looper"-> knob 2: Function "Play" Switch 3: Knob 1: "HX Looper" -> knob 2: Function "Stop" (page 63 on the manual) Then you'll have on a single display: - Your snapshots on first row - The looper functions on the second row

Owner’s manual pg74.

You can have all that. Just not within any current HX series hardware (it's simply not powerful enough for a start, let alone the operating system being something extremely different). You could slap a computer based setup together and use it live. And it'd possibly be a lot cheaper than any hypothetical modeler allowing you to do these things (which would possibly cost at least 2 times as much as current offerings). What you need is: - A computer of some sorts, preferably a laptop. If I was thinking about such a setup, a Macbook Air M3 (or likely an M4, which should be released rather soon) would be my prefered choice. The main reasons being that it's incredibly power efficient, has zero moving parts inside and gets just lukewarm with the lid closed (which is absolutely important for live playing as you don't want the keyboard to be exposed to anything like a beer shower). The smallest model would be sufficient (in case you don't want to run large sample libraries as well). I can run 3-4 fully loaded instances of Helix Native on one single core. That's just mindblowing. - A low latency audio interface of some sorts. I'm using a Motu M2 which is delivering a roundtrip latency of just 3.5ms at 44.1kHz samplerate. That's pretty much as good as a Helix Floor with both paths connected serially. You could of course get even lower by getting, say, an RME interface and raising the samplerate (which would obviously cost quite some CPU cycles, but there's plenty of juice - see above). We're now talking about <2ms roundtrip latency, which would even allow you to set up some send/return routings without running into latency issues. - A floor controller of some sorts (plus some expression pedal/s). There's gazillions by now, it's just a matter of your budget. - Ideally a tablet or an external MIDI knob box to remote control things when the laptop is closed and placed in a rack drawer (which is the only way I'd accept it to be on a stage). A cheap Android tablet running TouchOSC can go a long way here (I'm using just that to control some aspects of my current pedalboard). - Some software to run things. On macOS, Mainstage springs to mind, cost around 30 bucks and comes with all of Logic's FX already. You can have all amps in the world kinda for free in case you'd be using the NAM plugin and some captures. - Some decent rack to secure and transport things in. Overall cost of all that would possibly set you short by something along the lines of 2k, in case you're on a budget. 2.5k would already give you a pretty great setup and in case you can spend 3k there'd be little else to wish for. You could possibly save 500-1.000 buying 2nd hand. Yes, that's a lot more expensive than a Helix Floor, but it's incredibly more capable. In case I ever want to slap a new setup together, this is a route I will very seriously consider.

On Helix Floor, you can use the "10-stomp" mode. If you enable 10-stomp mode on your Helix Floor, you can now reposition all your buttons (except mode and tap/tuner). You can use the left-most buttons for other things and put your up/down buttons somewhere else, so it's more convenient for you. Perhaps you'd want to put your up/down buttons on the top left side, so it's out of the way. To set up what all your buttons do, use the Command Center. CC allows you to map up what all the buttons do, you can mix and match presets/snapshots/stomps. It's extremely versatile. This view is custom for every preset, meaning that if you want to reposition your buttons and have that layout be consistent, you would need to do it in every preset. And also, this view is your "stomp" view. So if you press the mode button and go back into your preset view, you will see the up/down buttons in their usual place. I use the 10-button stomp view myself on my Helix Floor. I simply replicate the familiar layout, but I remove the up/down buttons, they are blank. I do this so that if I'm playing a song that uses all snapshots, I can hit the mode button and the up/down buttons disappear. As a bonus, the same exact hack works for Helix LT, although it was not intended for it. Watch my video to see how I remove the up/down buttons. https://youtu.be/UTQ8wJaXZnc?si=fHRWVLse4_Lq6yQ5

I'm astonished that there's not a publicly available HX Stomp preset for the clean intro and outro on Nothing Else Matters. I'll try to upload a decent one later today. In order to build the preset I did some research, and discovered that the amp used by Metallica was a Boss Jazz Chorus, which has a Boss CE-1 chorus built in. Eureka! Also it helps if you can crank up the treble on your neck humbucker. The active pickups used by the band are very bright. I have a 2015 Les Paul Classic with a built in boost/buffer circuit that eliminates tone suck caused by distributed capacitance in the instrument cable, which really brightens up the 57 Classic pickups. They are so bright that I put metal covers on the pickups to reduce the treble a bit. You can also boost the treble on the amp model or add an EQ block if needed.

Is your HX Stomp powered directly by the Line 6 power supply it came with? Is that connection secure? If not I would look at power supply rather than heat as the issue.

Again, check your levels to make sure you're not trying to fix something that you can avoid with a proper gain staging. To exclude Helix from your signal chain but still be able to use your pedals you need an additional switcher with three or more fx loops: Loop 1: Helix IN -> Send 1 Loop 2: pedals Loop 3: Helix Return 1 -> 1/4" Out If you just engage Loop 2 you exclude Helix. If you use Loop 1, 2 and 3 you have the Helix setup like you have now. You wouldn't even need to change your Helix patch.

The link to Google works, but then it requires a request to access the file. Doh!

Using these three for examples: I would put a tuner before the volume pedal. WHY? Because I can turn my volume off and still tune. There's some more technical reasons, like a volume pedal amplifying certain frequencies that may or may not drive the tuner bonkers. But muting to tune is the primary reason. And noise gate???? I wouldn't put it before a volume pedal because when the gate activates and shuts off sound, if you have the volume pedal up, it will be a much more noticeable hard break. That doesn't make them wrong. And I am certainly not wrong. But it shows how rules aren't rules as much as they are suggestions. The different ways one uses a NG or VP can alter where you place them.

I may be wrong but I think it's because you don't use the setting "10 switches" in stomp mode section "Global settings"

Hi, That is probably the best course of action in this situation. As your HX Stomp XL is essentially brand new it is covered by warranty and you will possibly be advised to return it to the store where you purchased it for a fully functional replacement device. Good luck.

Why not use the whammy in the helix? Seriously. It sounds good and works very well. All the pitch effects in the helix are fantastic.

The simple fix if you're going to FOH with the L/Mono output is to have your mixer simply send that signal to your floor monitor on a separate monitor output. That's what's usually done. Simple and works flawlessly every time.

Weird. Both XLR outs (L and R) should behave the same - there shouldn't be a difference in noise depending of which of them you use. But they should also behave the same regardless of what input you plug into. A potential issue: The Helix outputs automatically sum to mono if using only the left (mono) output. This is true for both the 1/4" and XLR outputs. This could be an issue if your patch has the right stereo channel phase flipped. It would result in almost no signal when using the left channel only (L and R would cancel each other out when summed) which would appear noisier if you compensate for volume after Helix.

Maybe you should instead sell your Helix and buy yourself an HX Stomp, if you only use a couple of sounds. It's smaller, and you can get one of those fancy rack drawers, where it can live. Otherwise, the Helix Rack is more expensive, and it'd be difficult to find somebody willing to trade, unless it is "very" used.

Hi, There doesn’t appear to be any real detailed info about this, other that it is a Legacy item. This is all the info available from helixhelp.com Analog Synth Based on: Line 6 Original Synopsis These are great for funky synth guitar (or bass) lines. These sounds were made popular by Moog and ARP. Available Parameters Wave Filter Decay Mix Level You could try checking through some of the old POD manuals which may have more details. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Just to be clear - your offer is for the Rack only, not Rack+Control?

In Pod Go edit, right click on the parameter, select "snapshot assignment". You will see square brackets around the value. Go into a specific snapshot you want to make the change, change the value, save.

If you could post your 4CM patch that would help. What amp do you use?

One of the reasons the Helix is so great is because of the enormous amount of option you can pick from and the multiple ways you can achieve the same results. That is also the downfall of the Helix and why some people don't like it. Once you learn the basics (which are really basic) then you are on your way. It looks like you are over thinking it. You have to put"stuff" (amps, cabs, effects, looper, etc.) in your chain. To assign the stuff to a footswitch (so you can turn it on or off with your foot, when you are in "Stomp" mode) on the helix, make sure you are on the block you want to assign (in this case, the looper that you added to your chain), then touch and hold the footswitch you want to assign the block to and you will get a message asking if you want to assign this... hit save. Then you have your blocks tied to footswitches. For your snapshots, turn on the blocks you want activated in that snapshot and then save that as a snapshot. Then, when you are in Snapshot Mode, you can select that snapshot and those blocks will be turned on. I usually run in Stomp mode and have a couple of snapshots assigned to a few footswitches. A poster above pointed to how to do that. My understanding is you want to use the looper to set/tweak block settings. To do this I suggest putting your looper first in your chain, that way, you will hear what changes you are making because the looper is sending the signal down the chain. You will not hear any changes to your sound if you put the looper at the end, because the looper recorded your original sounds. You may know this, however it is important to understand if not. So I would put the 6 button looper first in the chain.... then add your other blocks (amps, cabs, whatever).... then click on the looper and you will see the loopers buttons. hit record and play something. Then press the "exit" button and you will return to the stomp mode AND the looper will keep playing. Then you can tweak stuff. When you find something you like, save that as a snapshot.... then repeat for whatever else you want. Hope this helps.... It is easy to get frustrated, however once you get the basics, it really is worth your while... at least imo.

https://helixhelp.com/tips-and-guides/universal/midi

Awww - thanks so much my friend. Helpful as always!

To further clarify things, that tone on the video was produced in a recording studio and it's highly unlikely he played that through any kind of amp. The tone you hear is representative of the type of microphone used to capture the guitar for the recording. The tone of the guitar sounds great to me, but I'm listening to it through a pair of Yamaha HS7 studio monitors. If you were to listen to that video through any of those amps you've mentioned it would probably sound good, but not nearly as clear and precise as I was hearing it because amp speakers aren't that sophisticated due to the fact they have a limited frequency response range. And in all likelihood, with your guitar you would be hearing it through the piezo-electric pickups in your guitar, not captured on a high quality recording studio mic setup. With that in mind the HXStomp would provide you with all the same capabilities used for studio recording including the selection of cabinet, mic and mic placement which will give you a greater degree of consistency with how his guitar was captured and playing it back through studio monitors would come very close. When it comes to acoustic guitar I've never used an amp as it's just not the right tool for the job. I always, even to this day, go direct to the mixing board and in a live setting pretty much ALL PA's use FRFR style speakers for the reasons cited above.

Are you using snapshots to engage/disengage the drive? If so, look in Global Settings for the Snapshot Edits parameter.

You can create an attack/delay type of effect, but I suspect the ramp up time wouldn't be as long as you'd like

When you say "it sounds soooo good in real life" - do you mean acoustically? Or does it sound great through a mixer but not through the Stomp?

Hi, Oh, dear - here we go again - I think you really need to read this! https://blog.line6.com/2023/09/15/eric-klein-at-least-half-of-your-modelers-sound-is-determined-by-your-playback-system/ Hope this helps/makes sense.

Ah, yes - the Apple Gatekeeper jumping in whenever it thinks it sees a threat. Bypass the damned thing! This is fully documented in the “Helix/HX Update Doesn’t Work? Look Here!” link that I posted earlier. I even put a link back to the Apple Support page regarding the Apple Security issues. Just in case anyone else missed it:- https://support.apple.com/en-us/102445 Hope this helps/makes sense.

Finally seems to be installing. Had to go via a backdoor route to make the software install. Lots of screwing around, multiple failed attempts but red line on mac screen counting through, , and update message on the Floor unit. Cheers Groovers, and Gurus.

So I finally got around to trying to update from 3.8 to 3.81 and the Firmware won't update, device goes to restart and won't come on again and update fails. If I try to restore backups they are all garbled. I've tried a factory reset too and then restoring backups. This is how my librarian looks after restoring a backup. The disjointed names are reflected on the device itself with the effect grayed out.

I opened a ticket when it first happened, I have not had much in the way of help so far, other than what I considered to be fairly generic responses. (eg. it's a server issue, IT are working on it) I've worked as a tech in IT, and server issues don't normally run into several days, let alone weeks. At the time of the original post, I had received no reply for over 2 weeks and was very frustrated that I was not getting any replies when I had made further enquires on the ticket. After I posted here I went back to the support ticket, posted another comment, and after that I received a reply fairly quickly about a possible monkey workaround, the "Making Line 6 Monkey Work" post. This workaround has done nothing for my issue, or monkey, as still neither detect my 500X. I'm not really concerned with Monkey though. It seems the issue is with license manager, however they may be related because after looking in the Monkey log, it has basically the same errors and licence manager mentions Monkey device. In that reply I was told that licence manager would come "later." I have asked if there is any estimated time frame but I am yet to receive a reply back from that. I am trying to be patient about this but when you buy something and are unable to even activate it for several weeks, it wears rather thin.

Hey guys, here’s a video I made with my preset for country music. This is what I use live everyday in Nashville and works great! I didn’t find much about it on YouTube, so I figured I’d do a video myself. Hope y’all enjoy!

Helix Edit is to Helix Native as a typewriter is to a book. As a potato masher is to mashed potatoes. As a frying pan is to a scrambled egg. You can't eat a potato masher, and you can't make music with Helix Edit. Helix Edit is used to edit the files which constitute the presets that you can load into Helix or Helix Native to make musical sounds come out of the thing on the floor or that thing on your desk. You don't need Helix Edit to use your Helix or Helix Native any more than you need a potato masher to eat a potato or a frying pan to eat an egg. Its greatest value is as a file manager and as a visual aid to help you to avoid the need to bend over a lot or clutter up your desk with that big old hunk of metal that you step on with your dirty shoes and smelly feet. It is, however, free!

Find a Micro USB Type A cable that's 3rd party if any and use that. Or get a new PC if the port you plugged into is fried.

I found it by myself but anyway, it is a very tricky menu... Additionally, I don't like to do so many clicks to overwrite the current preset, if you count them there are like 5 clicks for only one required action... is there a keyboard shortcut to save the patch? if no.... please Line 6 add the shortcut to save the current preset.. it is so basic but very import for easy editing.

Because piezos are in actual physical contact with the strings, they're way more affected by string vibration characteristics than magnetic pickups. Longitudinal string vibration, fret buzz, pick attack can all produce sound artifacts with piezos... much more so than with magnetics. I agree that string gauge, tension, set-up (action), and winding all have more effect on piezo sound characteristics than they do on magnetics. Flat-wound strings sound warmer, "flatter" and have less sustain; round-wound strings sound brighter, are more responsive and have more sustain. These round-wound characteristics increase with string gauge, but also depend on composition (chrome being warmer-sounding than nickel-plated steel, for example). I've tried lots of brands, gauges and compositions and have settled on my preferences. But in general I find lighter gauges sound quirkier, especially with a longer neck. In the end, it's a compromise... Let your ears be your guide.