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  1. To follow up...obviously I didn't get it done for December, but that's because the book's 1.2 update has had "scope creep" :) The section on mics has been redone completely, and I have a new way to do frequency response analysis that I've applied to the new amps, new mics, and old mics. I also got permission from Line 6 to consolidate all the release notes since 3.0 as an Appendix (thanks Line 6!). The updated book is done, all that remains is updating the presets that come with it. So it's not too far away. Also, it will be a free update to anyone who has the 1.0 or 1.1 version.
    6 points
  2. Hey all, So this weekend my HX stomp's rotary encoder #2 (of 3) went bad. The switch mechanism either gave out or was crushed internally, not sure. However, it stopped receiving button presses on encoder 2 under the screen. Long story short, I spent hours looking up posts, parts, sites, and came across what seemed like a compatible match. I soldered in the part a few moments ago and it works like OEM! I hope this helps anyone looking for the part. With ALLL that said, I can't guarantee that his works for the Helix as it does the HX. I've taken apart both units a few times for maintenance, however I just can't recall what was in the Helix Floor. Likely the same part. Here's the info: Digi-Key Part Number: PEC11R-4015F-S0024-ND Manufacturer: Bourns Inc. Manufacturer Product Number: PEC11R-4015F-S0024 Description: ROTARY ENCODER MECHANICAL 24PPR Encoder Type: Mechanical Output Type: Quadrature (Incremental) Pulses Per Revolution: 24 Actuater Type: Flatted D 6mm Detent: No Built in Switch: Yes Mounting Type: Panel PCB Orientation: Vertical Termination: PC Pin DigiKey Link: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/PEC11R-4015F-S0024/4499668?utm_medium=email&utm_source=oce&utm_campaign=4251_OCE23RT&utm_content=productdetail_US&utm_cid=3294583&so=79660503&mkt_tok=MDI4LVNYSy01MDcAAAGJeZwhRZlHpMczuFUKJJnBAI1cw3UpEiZQU9lj1m6djk3uIrKIfkkv702-v2drrxYburU4cGCOMTLMqBRAgNp_JnbIz01ZS88mDLPy61Z9
    5 points
  3. I've been working on the 1.2 update to The Big Book of Helix Tips and Tricks, so among other things I've been checking out the 3.50 effects in depth. The FlexoVibe is pretty unusual, so I thought y'all might appreciate what I've found out so far. Here's an excerpt, I hope you find it helpful as you check out the various parameters. This Line 6 original effect modulates amplitude, phase, and (in stereo mode), stereo image. If there’s any other effect out there like this, I certainly haven’t heard it. Line 6 considers it a chorus, but to my ears, the sound has more in common with a phase shifter. Note that choosing mono or stereo gives very different characters. Stereo is definitely optimum. Rate isn’t calibrated in Hz, but I’d estimate the slow speed is around 0.1 Hz, and the fastest speed, 4.5 Hz. Intensity determines the amount of modulation. Warp controls the LFO waveform, but this also varies according to the Intensity setting. Fig. 2.38 shows the audio output at different settings. The test frequency was 400 Hz. At lower frequencies, the peaks have a downward dip. Figure 2.38 In Clockwise from upper left: Intensity = 5.0, Warp = 0.0. Intensity = 10, Warp = +1.0. Intensity = 10, Warp = ‑1.0. Intensity = 10, Warp = 0.0 Spread is available only in stereo mode, and sets the phase offset between the two LFOs. This also affects the stereo image. At 0.0, the image is essentially mono. 10 gives the most pronounced stereo separation. 5.0 splits the difference between those two extremes. Mix works as expected. 0% has no effect in the mix, while 100% has no dry sound mixed in. The effect is most pronounced at 50%. The waveforms in fig. 2.38 are more like snapshots that give a general idea of how the modulation affects the audio output. Because phase shifting is involved, the waveform looks different at different frequencies. The main takeaway is how Warp alters not only the shape, but different attack and decay characteristics. Tip: In either the stereo or mono mode, for a vibrato effect set Warp to 0.0, Spread to 0.0, and Mix to 100%
    4 points
  4. I have tried the method several of you relayed for the HX Stomp, but it doesn't seem to work for HX Effects. I've contacted support as well as the guy from whom I purchased the HX Effects, and will post an update here for those interested.
    3 points
  5. The Helix uses component level modeling as well. The modeling teams for Line 6 and the Yamaha products are really two separate things. I believe most of the Yamaha development takes place in Japan with some in Europe. Pretty much all of the Line 6 engineering team is in California. There is a small contingent in Vancouver as well. But the way that Yamaha handles it subsidiaries is a pretty hands-off manner. There's been some cross-pollination, but that's kind of the exception, not the rule. I'd also add, though, that a lot of the dynamic perception you're talking about comes down to the playback system, perhaps even more than the modeling itself. So comparing a modeling amp to a standalone modeler isn't necessarily apples to apples.
    3 points
  6. There's no way to filter CCs at the HXFX end, BUT... Prophet 6 manual v1.0, page 12 - Globals - set Param Xmit to OFF. AFAICT that should block the P6 from SENDING CC#s, but still allow it to send PC#s. 5. Param Xmit: Off, CC, NR—Changes to the values of front panel controls are transmitted via MIDI as Continuous Controllers (CC) or Nonregistered Parameter Number (NR). Transmission of parameters can also be turned off. You could, for example, turn the filter cutoff frequence knob on the Prophet-6 and have it affect the cutoff frequency of another synthesizer. For a list of Prophet-6 CCs and NRPNs, see Appendix D. ----------------------------------------------------- If you're using Those to control something else in your MIDI Chain you may need to invest in something like a BOME Box to filter CCs on the HXFX MIDI Base Channel.
    3 points
  7. The Guitar Input is only available as an Input Block, you can't place the Returns before it. You COULD place a GAIN Block just after the Input Block, followed by Return 1 and Return 2 Blocks, and use Snapshots: Snapshot 1/Cable - Gain 0db with both Returns BYPASSED Snapshot 2/Wireless 1 - Gain -120db with Return 1 Active and Return 2 Bypassed Snapshot 3/Wireless 2 - Gain -120db with Return 2 Active and Return 1 Bypassed
    3 points
  8. Helix was overbuilt from the beginning in the areas that mattered the most for future updating. The design goal was specifically to create a platform. The technology is always less important than what you do with that technology. I have many digital devices from decades ago (e.g., Lexicon PCM-60) that use "antiquated" technology by today's standards. Yet they still sound as good as they did decades ago. The main reason for wanting faster/more expensive/hotter-running DSP is to speed up the rate at which operations occur. If you find the latency in Helix unacceptable, then you may need a unit with more powerful DSP (of course, regardless of the DSP, there will always be the latency involved in A/D and D/A conversion). However, DSP alone isn't the only factor. The efficiency of the coding is crucial. Based on 3.50, it's pretty clear Line 6 has managed to increase the efficiency dramatically, or we wouldn't have better cabs that require significantly less DSP. The question is simply whether Helix produces the sounds and effects you want. If not, then you need to find a unit that does. However, if you like a different unit better, it may have nothing to do with the underlying technology, but with the people who did the coding.
    3 points
  9. Thank you for the mention. Part of the reason for writing The Big Book of Helix Tips and Tricks was to encourage people to create their OWN sounds. I can truly say that I have never used the Helix to try and get a specific sound, other than the ones I hear in my head. Helix has such an incredible toolset for making sounds that go beyond what has been around for, let's face it, over half a century. Besides, sounding like someone else doesn't mean that you'll play like someone else. I totally understand that when starting out, it can feed one's enthusiasm to be able to appropriate the sound of an admired guitar player. And it makes sense that if someone can get a sense of instant gratification from Helix, they might be less likely to abandon learning guitar. But if you get stuck in the mindset of copying guitarists you admire, you won't become a guitar player others admire. Make a statement - your own statement. Individuality! Jeff Beck didn't become Jeff Beck because his goal was to sound like Buddy Holly.
    3 points
  10. Hey gang! I made a short video recently about how I set my presets to make them as dummy-proofed as possible. I've taken my Helix on the road many times so far, and here are some of the recommendations that I have.
    3 points
  11. In this world of instant gratification players often forget that yes... it did/does take countless hours of learning in order to create great tones. We do it differently these days, but putting in time is still not an option. IMO the learning never ends, you just get better/quicker at it over the years. Could Line 6 provide some better guidance/presets? Maybe. There is no shortage of discussions and video's on these subjects already and personally I would rather Line 6 work on the product(s), not enhanced training. For that we have Jason Sadites, Craig Anderton, and many others already.
    3 points
  12. You can if you make it idiot proof like I did. Fast, no guessing, never a wrong connection. Some custom length cabling. Some coloured heat-shrink. Some coloured nuts. Took me about 2-1/2 hours to fabricate once I got all the stuff needed to make the snake.
    3 points
  13. Not possible. Tone is ENTIRELY subjective. One person's killer tone is another person's hot garbage. The final playback system is a HUGE part of the sound. What sounds great through one person's $3k Genelec monitors sounds like trash through a pair of $50 3.5" computer monitors. Your Marshall amp sims might sound great through the FX Return of a DSL40 Creamback, but your Fender amp sims probably won't sound all that great through the DSL40. Neither is likely to sound great through the input/preamp section of a no-name transistor amp with an 8" speaker. Some companies do factory presets better than others. FAS, for instance, tends to score better. I would contend that if you can afford an AXEFXIII, you probably have a decent or better playback system. Factory presets are, IMO, mostly intended to showcase a modeler's capabilities. They are not intended to showcase tone so much as "How To" technique because, all of the above, and NO modeler I've ever seen has a "Use THIS preset for INSTANT GRATIFICATION even through a $30 pawnshop boom-box!" preset.
    3 points
  14. There are like billions of discussions, examples, video tutorials from hundreds of players, line 6 live tuts on youtube and facebook, covering every single Helix/HX aspect. I mean, billions, literally.
    3 points
  15. I'm thinking he might be referring to the Hi/Low EQ block which limits the high cut parameter to no lower than 1khz and the low cut to no higher than 1khz...for obvious reasons. Personally I can't even begin to imagine where one would need a high cut lower than 1khz. But who knows? Maybe someone has a use for a guitar tone that sounds like it's been wrapped in a soggy blanket? At any rate if you think this would be useful to a lot of people you can submit it on Helix IdeaScale and see if you can garner enough votes to compel L6 to do such a thing.
    2 points
  16. I can confirm that with the HX Stomp pressing the right encoder below the screen on startup displays the serial number (USN).
    2 points
  17. Don’t know what sound you are after/expect but generally speaking: A real amp consists of three parts – Preamp, Power amp and Speaker/s. That’s the signal chain and that’s the box DunedinDragon showed you above. Without deep diving the speakers are an “integrated” part of the power amp sound/response. That’s what Line6 emulates, with a microphone stuck into the speaker. If you remove the speaker, you remove part of the power amp/speaker/mic, you remove what is used to “eq/sound sculpture” the sound for that particular amp. You don’t remove the speaker in the real world. You change amp, speaker and/or mic to do that. What you can do is To replace the speaker with an EQ and sculpture the sound from there. Numerus of articles on that, search the forum for more info. You find a speaker that sounds decent to you and then place an EQ, one or more, on places in the signal chain. Depending on what I want. I sometimes place it before my amp block, between the power amp and speaker and/or after the speaker. Then tune to taste. In some cases it’s enough with just the preamp to reach the sound you want. Done that to get some nice jazz and blues tones, also for acoustic tone. Change amp, you might not like that particular AC30 Fawn. There are other AC30 alternatives in Helix, and speakers. Or a combo of the above. One thing for sure, at least for me, in my 10+ years I have been using modelers, I never liked the sound of a full amp without speakers (but what could I say, I play blues). The rest I’ve fixed with effect pedals and EQ’s. Yes, and when you turn up the gain the distortion level and some unwanted frequencies will appear that the speaker/s will filter out. If this filtering is not to taste you change amp, speaker/s and/or use an EQ to reach the sound goals. //Per
    2 points
  18. THIS is an actual AC30 Fawn which you are modeling. Notice the speaker cabinet is an integral part of the unit. Why would there be a question on this?
    2 points
  19. Thanks all, almost for sure will go with the Floor, good points made here all around.
    2 points
  20. Depends how clean are the FS... :) When the switch got a bit oxidated, or old, it start misfiring and throwing switch bouncing noise. (which means tap tempo being set randomly). I had this on both Helix floor and Helix control...
    2 points
  21. The tempo only changes if the Helix detects multiple consecutive taps. If you don’t tap the switch but just hold it until the tuner appears the tempo won’t change. Then when you tap to turn the tuner off, just tap once. Again, no tempo change.
    2 points
  22. No, there are just some settings you need to adjust. Your HX Stomp is quite capable of sending a good input level to your DAW. Note that the input level of the guitar’s dry signal is designed to be lower assuming subsequent reamping or plugin processing. I’d start by making sure the HX Stomp output level is high, although I’m not sure that affects the USB Send level. Try adjusting the track’s input level in your DAW before recording. Also try lowering the level of your computer’s output to balance the level of the Stomp.
    2 points
  23. The HX drivers arent yet compliant with Core Isolation, so they are being deprecated by W11. Try turning Memory Integrity Off in Windows Security.
    2 points
  24. Filters like wah, as well as dynamic pedals (compressors), pitch shifters, gain pedals/distortion/overdrive, they all work better just in front of Helix. So between your guitar and Helix input. FX Loop for time based effect pedals, like reverbs, echo and delays.. (or even synths like in my case :) )
    2 points
  25. With IK's impending release of the ToneX pedal, I decided to see if we really need to spend $500 on another pedal. Many of us already have an iPad and ToneX, so why not? I now have Helix pre and post Fx and MIDI working with ToneX in AUM on my iPad Air. Full integration accomplished! It'll take some work to make it practical to use, and I still have to manually load the ToneX models/presets, but first attempts have resulted in the ability to use a single toggling CC to simultaneously lower GAIN and raise VOLUME and vice versa. That means that I can create a preset for each (manually selected) ToneX model/preset and control up to 8 parameter settings using snapshots. Now that I know that I can do this with Helix, I know that I can also use the FCB/UNO2 to do the MIDI part. But that requires programming, and I won't start on that until I've got it all working from Helix. Eventually I'll create a How-To guide, but that's a ways down the road. Meanwhile, I'll keep working on the Helix integration as time allows. Life, and all that good stuff...
    2 points
  26. It helps when asking these kinds of questions to attach a copy of a sample preset so we can see what you're doing. Since you didn't, I'll assume that the MIC is on a separate Path from the Guitar. Split the Path right after the Return 2 Block (use a GAIN Block), pull down the MIX Block to complete the split and send the resulting DRY signal wherever you want.
    2 points
  27. Im also on Ventura/M1 Pro, no issues with latest version of Native and HX Edit. Still they appears as Intel, but they works.
    2 points
  28. A new model with more DSP & Memory is inevitable.... when, we don't know. Here is what I know TODAY! My Helix sounds great, and I don't face any bottlenecks in horsepower or memory even though I am aware some do. When a new Helix is introduced my Helix will still sound great! As a gigging musician.... my Helix makes my life easy and also makes me a good chunk of change. Why would I put all of that on hold waiting for something I "expect" to be coming at "some point". Maybe EVH should have waited 2 more years for the JCM 800 instead of using that 10 year old Super Lead :)
    2 points
  29. In case it missed your attention there has been a global pandemic over the past couple of years which has had an impact on the supply of various parts. One of the major things to be hit was the manufacture of microchips. See the blue banner at the top of this page - “Impact of Global Materials Shortage”. You give the impression that, as you put it, “3 generations in” you are expecting no more development of this line? Over on TGP, it has been noted that Digital Igloo has mentioned yet more firmware for the Helix is still in progress. Nothing makes sense in 2023 - waiting for the next big thing to come rolling down the tracks is an exercise in futility. You could wait forever! You really should buy what’s available right now to get the job done, or wait in vain. I love the way that you describe how easy it would be to create this mythical beast of Helix 2 - “install newer DSPs, a modern heatsink and some extra memory DONE!” - Wow! I’m surprised that Eric hasn’t thought of that one already and told the team to just get on with it. Yeah, right!
    2 points
  30. Hi, if you check you screenshot you can see the error is [code -8127] - a quick search will reveal this has happened on many occasions. To save lots of time re-typing the same things over, and over again - go here and read this:- Hope this helps/makes sense.
    2 points
  31. I wouldn't care much of FRFR for Bass honestly, and I'd just hunt for a good PA 15" speaker, with a "flattish" response giving you some juice at 40Hz without have to implement a subwoofer. Even something capable of producing -3dB at ~55Hz would do the job. That's if we are talking about a standard 4 strings bass, tuned E standard. If you go lower than that, maybe with a 5 strings, you need big and heavy stuff. It always depends what you need for; gigging? bedroom practice? stage monitor? 8" for bass is a bit weak (the 108 FR starts at 52Hz at -12dB, your E string fundamental sits at 41Hz), unless you are playing at bedroom levels and you don't care much for fundamentals.
    2 points
  32. This. Information on the site is very misleading.
    2 points
  33. Hi, Well it looks to me that these guys have a contact form at the bottom of their website pages -drop them a line, as they are the folks who would know exactly what is in the pack and what they will load into. https://www.theampfactory.com/downloads/category/irs/ Although, it looks like a lot of cash investment if you only need that one IR of the WEM Starfinder? Hope this helps/makes sense. EDIT: If you only require the Fane model - this guy has these. https://giacomopasquali.store/products/uem-starfinder-412 Ah ha, Fane Acoustics, there’s a blast from my past - My late mother worked as the Personal Assistant and Secretary to one of the founding partners (Dennis Newbold - the NE part of the FANE name) back in the late 60s and early 70s. I recall her telling me about the visit of some very polite, but long haired, young men who came to check out some new speakers. She said they had a very strange name - Pink Floyd.
    2 points
  34. You can't use .wav files in AxeFx. You always need to convert to .syx via CabLab. I would find odd that they are selling a package that needs to be converted, so Im guessing they are just using a wrong term for that product. At this point I'd ask them if they are actually .wav or .syx. I have many commercial iRs, multiformat, and those for AxeFx are all in .syx.
    2 points
  35. Imho your best option here is to create your own kill switch pedal to be placed between guitar and helix (or whatever pedal you have in front of helix). Still not 100% like a real kill switch, but at least you can build something fast and reliable, that does what it should and sounds properly. You'd just need a little metal enclosure, a grounded (and fast) SPST button that you can step on quickly, and two mono 1/4" jacks. Wired Tip to Tip and Slave to Slave, then the switch placed in between the tip of one of the two jacks, and the slave of the other. When you press the switch you'll send signal to ground, and that's it. The important part here is that the circuit MUST be placed BEFORE any preamp, as if you place after a preamp you are shorting its loaded signal, creating a loud POP. Or just buy one of these; https://saturnworkspedals.com/product/kill-switch-pedal/
    2 points
  36. Uh? What? About 6 years after the event!
    2 points
  37. !!SOLUTION!! I had an issue where my expression pedal stopped working. I reset to factory settings, ensured I was on the latest firmware, and checked settings. The pedal wouldn't toggle between EXP 1 & 2 and wouldn't register any input at all which was unlike any other issue I saw on the forums. I decided to take my pedal apart to see if I could find the issue and to my surprise and relief, the cable connecting the pedal to the board had become detached. Each connector appears to have glue holding it in the socket as opposed to a clip and in my case the glue had broken and the cable had detached. I've attached pictures below pointing out the cable to look for. I didn't think to take a picture before reattaching it and didn't want to risk detaching it again. I hope this helps someone in the future. **Note: I would recommend keeping track of which screw goes where when taking the pedal apart. A few are different sizes**
    2 points
  38. There is no touch menu on the Helix, just "touch capacitive" footswitches. Global Settings > Footswitches > Stomp Select Set that to "Touch" or "Touch & Press"... Touch the button with your finger, not a foot in shoes. It will react to bare feet, and sometimes feet in socks.
    2 points
  39. Hi rd2rk Don’t beat yourself up on this… to be honest, we don’t really know the correct answer. Except what we can make a qualified guess on it, but still, only Line6 have the answer… and I think they have had a lot of opportunities to “correct you” and let us know how we should interpret what’s in the manual and how we should expect the PC to behave. Page 10 - “Each speaker is comprised of a 12" low frequency driver, with a 1" high frequency compression driver mounted in a coaxial configuration.” Page 10 - “An added benefit is that these models provide a variety of speaker tones that can still be captured through a microphone at any placement, thanks to the coaxial speaker system design.” Page 10 - “Powercab 112 includes the first six speaker models in the list below, as well as HF OFF / Natural” Page 13 - “Intended to respond like a real guitar speaker for a traditional "amp-in-the-room" experience. This mode applies different tonal characteristics of the selected speaker model to the system's coaxial driver, with the following adjustable parameters.” “coaxial configuration”, “coaxial speaker system design”, “HF OFF/Natural”, “model to the system's coaxial driver”… hard to say what they mean. They use different way to describe things without declare it with a conclusion. The interpretation of it depends on “which glasses” you wear for the day… I have red yours and amsdenj conversations and my own conclusion is that we will not know until (1) Line6 come with an explanation and (2) come with an update (probably both HX and PC firmware/edit) that streamlines the operation and eg give better control over L6 Link. Preferably describe what behavior to expect and use the same “wording” for the same thing. Eg, for myself (have the PC+ 112) – I have not had much luck with the “amp in the room speakers” (no Cab in the preset, even tried the Neutral, but didn’t like it), and I did invest time on it in the beginning. Now I only use Flat/FRFR mode (3.50 update of the Cab’s really did it). A week ago, amsdenj proposed to use LF Raw without Cab’s in the preset. I tried this a couple of days ago and that was a very positive experience… (had only tried it with Cab’s in the preset before, both LF Flat and LF Raw, no success), thanks for that recommendation. Will do further testing, but looks like a winner :-) So rd2rk, don’t update all your post… I guess the statement in this everyone will be read and commented on it (maybe the TGP “future of Powercab” thread if necessary). With some lock even Line6 :-). If you or amsdenj makes a post I always read them, I learn something every time. And so do others. Take care //Per
    2 points
  40. Not to worry, and even if you could tell by S/N (I don't think so), they're not going to fix it if it's not broken. If you bought it new it should not be a problem, the issue was resolved a long time ago. If you bought it used or it was sitting in store stock for a VERY long time, it might be from before they resolved the issue. In either case, if it breaks it's covered by warranty, even if purchased used.
    2 points
  41. Perhaps the difference depends on how the patches are edited. The 212 HF driver bug is that the changing Mode and Voicing using HX Edit or Helix does not effect both left and right HF drivers. If you make all the changes directly on the Powercab, you will find that the HF Compression Driver is only on in Flat:FRFR or IR modes.
    2 points
  42. Finally fixed the problem with idea scale, turns out it was my add blocker preventing me to access the accept cookies popup on the site. So it was not Safari after all. Hope this helps anybody with the same problem!
    2 points
  43. Nothing is "dummy-proof" to a sufficiently qualified dummy!
    2 points
  44. I use the simple/basic little GAIN block at the front of every preset to manage input differences. It's very light on resources and adds no color to your tone. Unlike boost pedals, the gain block can also cut signals which is handy for those really loud instruments. No tone change, just volume.
    2 points
  45. If you don't want to use snapshots for some reason, you can assign the block to a stomp button as well. Press the button and you have reduced gain.
    2 points
  46. Happy Studio One 6 user here. To be honest.... I always use a dedicated audio interface and never have an issue. Your Scarlett works fine... I'd just stick to that. I know that's not much help.... I just find the efforts are not worth the trouble when there is a solution already at your fingertips. The wait for a fix could take a long time. There have been a few threads of users having issues with the current audio drivers. Ironically, those were Cakewalk users which you say works fine... go figure. Their fix was to "downgrade" the Helix audio driver, not the firmware. Perhaps that will also work in your case with Studio One?
    2 points
  47. Gain blocks are easy on resources and are transparent. I keep one near the front of my chain to match input levels, and one after the amp block to fine tune output levels. If I need a cut or boost in a snapshot, I'll apply it on one of those depending on the need. That type of option isn't practical on a Stomp or HX effects with limited blocks... but there is no shortage of blocks on the big units to squeeze them in. Works for me, might not be the solution for others :)
    2 points
  48. When running Native as a plug-in within a large DAW recording project, there's often a trade-off between monitoring through the plug-in/DAW vs latency (delay between playing the guitar and hearing the guitar through the software/hardware). In Logic, I often have to set my buffer up pretty high in order to prevent audio glitches if I want to monitor through Helix Native when recording a new guitar track. For me, its important to hear the sound of a guitar modeler and its effects in order to get the mojo of the track while recording. Yeah, I can use a guitar modeler in my Apollo Twin DSP, and monitor that in real-time, but its not the same. It's workable but not ideal. That's a big trade-off. I recently bought a copy of S-Gear (another popular amp/cabinet and effects modeler). Its not as extensive as Helix Native, but for the included amps I actually prefer its tone and response. But the HUGE benefit is that the software includes a stand-alone application identical to the DAW plug-in. Now I can set up routing through my audio interface so that I can monitor the sound of the S-Gear amps and effects through the standalone app with very low latency (8.5 ms), while recording the guitar along with my existing Logic tracks. I can leave my Logic buffer set high for large track and virtual instrument counts, and still have low latency when monitoring my amped guitar. Its delicious. And, like Native, I can choose to record the raw track, or the S-Gear processed track. Sadly, Helix Native does not include a standalone app. If there was one (and it would need to be a low-latency application), users would be able to 1) monitor their guitar modeling with near zero latency when recording tracks and 2) play through the app without having to fire up their DAW, load the plug-in, etc. P.S. There are standalone apps that will host plug-ins out there. That might work for this usage, but I haven't tested it. Worth a try!
    2 points
  49. You have to right click and select open on packages that do that. Quite a few things like this out there right now for the M1.
    2 points
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