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  1. Hi, There are stacks of threads on here discussing the reasons why HX Edit fails to open on Window machines Have you fallen foul of the dreaded SD Card in slot issue? That one seems to be the favourite cause of this problem. Here: Or here: Hope this helps/makes sense
    4 points
  2. Expression pedals are extremely simple devices.... If you have the Mission EP-1... you can easily mod it to the proper specs.... (for the 3rd image you need an EXP with a footswitch, and an HX Stomp)
    3 points
  3. Demo preset attached. Note that this is NOT the way I'd do it, as it does not optimize use of either the gear or the DSP, but you asked for minimum cabling so here ya go! The comp and eq are just there as placeholders, they're not essential. For the Helix amp I used the "Mandarin Rocker" simply for comparison purposes. FS3 switches from Helix amp to the Orange on Return R by bypassing one or the other. You'll need to use the cable from the OD pedal (not guitar to OD) when you switch amps. EDIT: set Return R to LINE in Global Settings>Ins/Outs Mikey.hlx
    2 points
  4. Update: It appears from a recent post on one of the FB pages that this is a hardware issue. "...I'm sorry friends, but the problem is confirmed hardware and here in Italy there are already those who have had the modification under warranty at the authorized Line6 service" I purchased my Pod Go from Yamaha Music London in June 2020 so it is still within its 2 yrs warranty. I've today written to them and as Yamaha own Line 6 I have requested an explanation as to why Line 6 has not openly come out to its customers on this, and have requested that my Pod Go be 'repaired/upgraded' by Line 6. I'll keep you all posted.
    2 points
  5. Re the video: Helix has a variable input impedance selector. Pod Go has a fixed impedance of 1M Ohm. If he had Helix set to 'Auto' I'd be interested in a comparison using the other impedance setting in Helix. For those less familiar, placing a buffered unit in front of Pod Go will deliver the same highs. A buffered unit might be eg any Boss stomp pedal - the pedal has to be powered but not stomped 'on' to benefit from the buffer. The other buffered device could be something like the Line 6 G10 Relay wireless system that is a buffered device. I use the G10 Relay, so do not have this issue, and is why similarly the Pod Go Wireless doesn't have this issue ie it's an issue ONLY when using cables. However, it is also very much down to the make, length & type of guitar cable you are using because different cables have different impedance, that can make a big difference to your tone. I tested my Pod Go with a good quality Vox coiled cable and my Piranha cables and the tonal difference with both as compared to via the G10T or placing my Boss CS3 pedal in front of Pod Go, was negligible and nothing like the variation in this video, which is quite extreme. Now, whilst there has been a lot of posts on forums/boards/youtube vids on this issue, you need to appreciate that putting a buffered unit in front of ANY MFX unit will brighten tone and not until you hear the difference do you think anything is 'wrong'. now, although Helix offers an impedance selector, a 1M Ohm input impedance is standard in mid-range MFX. Even the brand new Boss GX100 is 1M Ohm, whereas it's big brother the GT1000 is 2M Ohm. So this is not a 'fault' with Pod Go, but an additional option in Helix that is 3 x the price. I have a Vox Tonelab SE, LE and ST - and the same tone brightening occurs when using a buffered device in front of these. I also have a BBE Sonic Stomp Maximiser, and this makes tone sound brighter/clearer too. The same issue applies when using a guitar amp if you plug direct into an amp and then compare with a buffered device in front of it. So, whilst there is a tonal difference, it's because of the more sophisticated impedance options in Helix, rather than an issue with Pod Go Impedance. And here's a further thought. Many of the more expensive wireless devices allow you to change the settings to replicate guitar cable impedance. Why? Because a lot of players don't like the brighter tone, and want it to sound similar to their cabled sound. This whole thing has just got a bit out of proportion. But whilst it's possible Line 6 might be able to do something in v1.40 firmware, I suspect only a physical mod would 'solve' the issue for those seriously troubled by it - but you never know. However, having said all this I still would have hoped that Line 6 would have said something to at least confirm Pod Go impedance definitely is 1M Ohm. The fact they haven't even done so does potentially raise a big question mark and could give some credence to (reportedly) 'techs' who say they have tested Pod Go and found the input impedance to be only a third to a half of 1M Ohm. If that is proved to be the case then it might suggest Line 6 may have cut corners to save a few pennies. The problem is that if Line 6 refuses to comment, customers and potential customers are left to speculate, and that's not a good thing. So Line 6, if you are looking in - please confirm what the Pod Go input impedance is.
    2 points
  6. Hi, As noted by "silverhead" in the post above - check your settings and report to the Customer Support - they cannot fix it if they don't know.. Not sure what is happening for you - I went straight to it, (from the Downloads menu at the top of this page, then select Helix Native from under the "Choose Software" menu, then Windows 10 from under the "Choose OS" option then click "Go")and i downloaded the correct file without any issues. Try this: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lpx66fy5yszmzmr/Helix Native v3.15 Installer.exe?dl=0 Hope this helps/makes sense.
    2 points
  7. You can see the version that will be downloaded when you select it on the Downloads page. If that says v3.15 and it’s actually v1.00 that is being downloaded and installed, that’s a problem with the Line 6 website configuration. Open a support ticket to report it.
    2 points
  8. There’s actually two versions of it on the Helix - the HX version called “Bleat Chop Trem” and the Legacy version mentioned above.
    2 points
  9. This has been discussed many, many, many times on here and other forums. Resurrecting a post from 2017 isn’t going to make any difference- this horse is dead. Trust me - it’s your OCD. Huh? They did drop it in the Legacy > Modulation folder way back in Firmware version 2.50 released on February 7th 2018 - over 5 years ago! Once again your were replying to a comment in a dead thread from mid 2017. There is a much more recent thread on here, from May 2021, which states: Hope this helps/makes sense.
    2 points
  10. Hi, I can’t see the EXT/AMP idea being feasible as the Digitech Freqout isn’t designed to work with any type of external trigger. Also, If it was in your FX Loop you would still need to kick in the switch with your foot, as that FX block would need to be open for the signal flow to continue. Maybe easier to move it, or the HXFX, elsewhere on your board layout. Hope this helps/make sense. EDIT: I have just read the spec sheet and the “how it works” info for the Freqout provided by DIigiTech on their website. No external triggering (other than your foot) and also it is recommended that the device is placed first in the signal chain. https://www.digitech.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-masterCatalog_Harman/default/dw86d7d044/pdfs/DigiTech_FreqOut_Manual.pdf
    2 points
  11. I used this product to lubricate my treadle. It took a few applications before it stopped squeaking from being too tight. It is safe to use on the rubber inside the pivot mechanism. https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-10041-Professional-Lubricant/dp/B000BBYCUC
    2 points
  12. So I took apart the thing and came to a conclusion that there's not enough lubrication. What was happening is that the screw.... was loose and there was too much friction because there was not enough grease, so that made it appear like the screw was tight because the pedal was hard to move, while since the screw was loose the alignment was off..... lol there. I put some lithium grease and reassembled the whole thing and now everything aligns well and the action is smooth. The whole damn thing is only 2 years old with minimal use.
    2 points
  13. I had to re-install PT First because I un-install it every time after I use it to help somebody make something work that works without effort in every other DAW that I own. That's Ableton, Cakewalk, Reaper and Studio One (which I hate ALMOST as much as Pro Tools). I HATE Pro Tools SO MUCH that I don't even want it on my computer! OK, now that I've got that off my chest. Sorry if you LOVE it, but... I could NOT get PT First to record Input 5 or 6. It SEES the inputs but won't accept audio from them. I had NO PROBLEM recording those inputs in any of the afore-mentioned DAWs. If you want to open a support ticket with L6, it's possible that it's a known problem with Pro Tools, or maybe just with PT First. Or maybe your ticket will be the first they've heard of it. Good Luck! In the meantime, if getting something done is important, load up one of the FREE DAWs that I mentioned in which re-amping with USB 5/6 (and most everything else that SHOULD be possible in PT First) works without a hitch. You can always export the DI track to PT First if you MUST use THAT DAW. BIG BONUS! ALL of those other FREE DAWS will allow you to use your 3rd Party plugins! Again, Good Luck!
    2 points
  14. Great! I have not had the opportunity to set the USB ins/outs on the Helix before, so this will be new to me, but I'm hoping I will figure it out. And since V Collection has its own effects I think I will go with your first recommendation and bypass the Helix effects. My USB cables come in today, so you can bet what I'll be doing this evening.
    1 point
  15. While researching Pod Go issues before the purchase, I discovered multiple reports on difference in sound with same presets compared to Helix. Apparently this is known issue, and many solve it with placing additional pedals before guitar input. Here is the main thread: pod-go-impedance-problem Here is the video highlighting the difference in sounds: Just wondering, is there any official response to this issue? Is it confirmed/negated by line6 anyhow, anywhere?
    1 point
  16. I had a quick look at your history and you don’t seem to have much success using this stuff. You didn’t say what piece of hardware was having the problem loading the IR. I know you have a Helix floor because you had issues trying to figure out how to put it into 10 foot switch mode when using Command Centre. From the Helix 3.0 Owner’s Manual - Rev F - English - Page 38 ”IR File Reference Once an IR block is configured to utilize an IR index slot that includes an imported IR (.wav or .hir) file, and the preset then saved, the preset creates a “reference signature” to the imported IR from its file name. Likewise, if you save your IR block as a Favorite (see "Adding a Block to Favorites" on page 17) or set the IR block’s current settings as the User Model Defaults (see "Saving a Model’s User Default Settings" on page 18), the IR bock also creates a reference to the specific IR file within your IR library. Therefore, if you re-order IRs within the IR library list, your preset (or IR Favorite or User Model Default block) will still intelligently reference the originally associated IR file, even if it now resides in a different IR Library index location. This also makes it easy to share your presets with friends since they can then insert the same IR file in any slot within their Helix IR library, and the preset will find it. Please also refer to the HX Edit Pilot’s Guide for additional info regarding the use of IRs.” link: https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a3f041b611d61cac763b/application/pdf/Helix 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev F - English .pdf And here is the Pilot’s Guide https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a3f1049f61fd3077f0eca/application/pdf/HX Edit 3.15 Pilot's Guide - English .pdf Have fun trying to “krack” the protection - I really don’t think you should have mentioned that in here. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  17. only one thing for me really.. the valve driver has anyone ever used it and been happy with it? i tried it a few times and it just seems to make everything sound harsh and bad
    1 point
  18. Well, it’s not just Line 6 specific EXP pedals - Mission also make them for Kemper, Eventide, Roland BOSS, and Quad Cortex to name few. Outrageously expensive for what is essentially a variable resistor that you work with your foot. Get the soldering iron warmed up!
    1 point
  19. Hi Mike, You can play back any of your soft synths through your Helix floor via the USB. I have also the the Arturia V collection and when recording in Logic the whole stereo output from Logic plays back through the Helix on USB 1&2, bypassing all the onboard Helix effects and playing out to my monitors on the Helix XLR. If you wish to have the soft synths on a separate path, as you do with the analogue hardware, set them to send on USB 3&4 from your MacBook, and set input for the second path to receive USB 3&4. That way you can add effects from your Helix floor to the synth signal if you wish. Hope this help/makes sense.
    1 point
  20. You won't blow anything up, but how you do it depends on how EXACTLY you currently have everything wired and what EXACTLY you want to accomplish. Describe the configuration in detail and define your big-picture goals (not just "get the Orange into the Katana"). For instance: "I want to have everything set up so I don't have to rewire anything to go from using Stomp as 4cm FX processor to pedalboard (Stereo? Mono?) into Stomp amps into Katana power amp to Orange into Stomp into Katana - all just by switching presets!" - IOW - the "All I want is EVERYTHING!" configuration - AKA I shoulda bought the full fat Helix. Maybe list your needs in order of importance?
    1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. Sorry. I misspoke. You don’t need to update Reaper, just configure it to include the v3.15 VST installation folder for Helix Native and ignore the v3.11 VST folder. I’m not sure where exactly in Reaper you adjust the VST folder locations that Reaper should use but that’s all you should need to do. Of course that may not be the actual issue but it’s my best guess.
    1 point
  23. Yes, it´s about Mode and Tap for me as well. So actually, I´d like to individualize ALL switches. So I´ll stick with my Stomp + external switcher. If it would be possible, I would like to have the five lower switches for presets and snapshots and the upper buttons for preset up/down and tuner.
    1 point
  24. I did the same as @datacommando, and fully agree with his conclusions.
    1 point
  25. Point is, if you DIY, you will void the warranty for any future/further possible assistance. I would still let do the job to a Line6 licensed center, like Thomann, and keep the warranty alive as much as you can. ;)
    1 point
  26. Hi Brane, I don’t think that your unit will be covered by warranty in this instance, but it may be worth a try - it should be fit for purpose. You didn’t say which area of Europe you are in, but you can track down the nearest Line 6 authorised repair shop by entering your details into this page: https://line6.com/find/service_center/ Hope this helps/makes sense
    1 point
  27. Once you have the Global Settings squared away you'll need to select "MIC" as the source on the Input block on one of the Paths. The Output Block can then be set to wherever you want the processed signal to go. For DAW use, you'll want to go to Global Settings>Ins/Outs and set Re-Amp Source (USB 8) to MIC if you want an unprocessed signal into the DAW. EDIT: One of the features of this Forum SW is that, in order to better enable communication(!), the emojis are disabled.
    1 point
  28. Wow, that is something I never would have thought to check on the SD Card. I ejected the SD Card and instantly it popped up. Thanks everyone for the responses! As always, L6 is the best community of musicians ever!
    1 point
  29. I want a Fletcher Munson function on my mix board's Master fader.
    1 point
  30. First post here, hello everyone! I thought I could give some information I've found regarding DIY expression pedals used with helix. After reading through a few threads discussing how HX compatible expression pedals are put together, I thought I'd try to build my own. I ordered a wah enclosure kit, momentary foot switch, TRS jack, and 10k B potentiometer (specifically one from Dunlop that is meant for a wah pedal). I'm using an HX Stomp XL in case that matters. I used alligator clips to experiment with wiring before I soldered anything. I could only get the potentiometer to work correctly when wired to the ring of the TRS jack, not sure why. I had the EXP/FS Tip and Ring settings configured correctly for each type of wiring, also had the EXP positions set to global. I also ran into an issue when combining the expression pedal with the footswitch. My enclosure is very similar to a crybaby, where pressing the footswitch tilts the treadle "past" toe position. The HX recognized that maximum forward position from hitting the footswitch and assigned it to 100%. Therefore, when resting in the conventional toe position, I would only get to 65% or so. I tried assigning a max limit, but that did the opposite of what I wanted (where a properly working toe position would result in 65% position on the hx). I had initially wired lug 2 to ring, and lug 1 to sleeve. I finally found that wiring lug 3 to the ring, and lug 2 to the sleeve of the jack made it work; especially after tweaking with what portion of the potentiometer the pedal swept through. I measured the resistance at toe and heel position: toe was 9.4k ohm and heel was 0k ohm. I don't know how consistent this is across units, YMMV. My hypothesis is that HX is designed with a max resistance/voltage that allows for that extra travel in order to use the footswitch. The way I had wired the pot the first time put that resistance at the heel end rather than the toe end. Not an electrical engineer, so I'd love to hear others' thoughts. Hopefully this helps out anyone looking to make their own Helix/HX Stomp compatible expression/footswitch combo.
    1 point
  31. The pedal need to be cabled between the guitar and the POD Go. "I think the problem might be somehow software related". I guess no. And the evidence it's the wireless as a way to fix it. Why Line 6 doesn't develop that improvement in its flag ship? Because relay works like a buffer and Helix hasn't impedance issues.
    1 point
  32. Thank you so much! Very much in keeping to the process I used before. Downloading the Firmware & L6 Updater separately from the Downloads page was the info I needed. But I appreciate you taking the time to provide such detailed instructions. May your kindness return to you 100 fold!!
    1 point
  33. Typically it's not the amp sims as much as it's the configuration parameters within the sims that will tend to make the difference. Amp sims all basically do the same thing but there's an absolute WORLD of different parameters and settings you can use.
    1 point
  34. When you change the sound pressure, without compensate the volume delta, your ears will perceive the tone differently. Biggr the delta, the wider the difference. It's the Fletcher Munson curve. At low listening volumes – mid range frequencies sound more prominent, while the low and high frequency ranges seem to fall into the background. At high listening volumes – the lows and highs sound more prominent, while the mid range seems comparatively softer. Yet in reality, the overall tonal balance of the sound remains the same, no matter what the listening volume.
    1 point
  35. Well increasing the sensitivity will certainly affect higher frequencies more than it will mids and lows simply because your ears are more sensitive to that range. What concerns me more is the aggressive high cuts you've been using. I rarely have high cuts on any preset below 8khz and generally they're more in the 9 to 10 khz range. This can be related to a couple of different things. Either your listening position relative to the speakers (both studio monitors and live speakers) or the mic and mic positions you're specifying on your cabinet model setups. In terms of listening positions, studio monitors are typically more sensitive to this than are PA speakers, especially if they have rear facing bass reflex ports. I use 7 inch speakers (Yamaha HS7) and have them about a foot away from walls and positioned so that I'm in the center of an equilateral triangle between them at roughly chest to ear height. PA speakers aren't as particular about physical positions relative to walls, but they can be dramatically affected depending on how close you're standing to them. In my rehearsal space I have my Yamaha DXR12 at about chest height and I stand about 6 to 7 feet away to allow proper blending between the main speaker and high end driver. In terms of cab/IR models I tend to use a combination of MD421 dynamic and R121 ribbon mics and I keep the 421 positioned farther away from the speaker then I do the 121. Some folks get good results with a R121 positioned around 2" in their cabinet models.
    1 point
  36. It sounds to me like your 8's are better at reproducing high end than your 5's were. Being the same model, that would be odd. What model of JBL are you talking about? It shouldn't affect tone, it will affect volume. IIRC, LINE Out on the Helix is +4db.. so that would be the best setting to use. +4 is known as "pro line level" while -10 is known as "consumer line level". They play nicely with each other... but it's always best to match when possible.
    1 point
  37. Hi, When you have a situation where you were once able to do something perfectly then it suddenly stops working as it did, you have to ask the question - “what changed?”. You will usually find the solution is right there. To be certain that there is not a fault with your HX Stomp USB hardware or cables, download one of the freely available DAWs and test it, as suggested by “rd2rk” in his post above. Oh, yeah, I also have to agree that Pro Tools First is truly awful. It’s so bad, that I would never use it, and I even forgot that I still had a copy of it. Logic is my DAW of choice, but like “rd2rk” I also have Reaper, Ableton, GarageBand, Studio One etc., for testing purposes and trouble shooting issues that come up in here. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  38. Have you tried setting levels with NO Native blocks in the signal path? Set your input levels so you get a nice clean DI level. Make sure you don't overdrive the Native input setting (use -12dB for starters). You should have no problems getting a good output level into your DAW track unless there is something wrong in your hardware (bass, DI, Scarlett, or cables). After you get a good level, add an amp block only (with no cabinet). Start with the default settings and adjust. All still good? Then add a cabinet. Add blocks as needed, checking levels along the way. Troubleshooting: start simple, then add stuff. Let us know how it goes.
    1 point
  39. Hi, The OP was asking about the MODE and TAP switches, which AFAIK really cannot be modified. The OP didn’t mention if he was only using the 4 ABCD switches. I’m not sure if you are aware that but using Command Centre you can add the 2 BANK UP/DOWN switches for whatever purpose you require give you access to six footswitches. If you haven’t already seen this - here’s a link. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  40. Try inserting the Studio Tube Pre.... "Preamp > Mic > Studio Tube Pre" The "polarity" (normal / inverted) setting in that block is your phase inversion. IME, the Studio Tube Pre is extremely valuable when processing acoustic instruments. YMMV.
    1 point
  41. What good is an electric guitar that simulates an acoustic guitar sound through an amplifier going to do at a camp fire where there is no electricity
    1 point
  42. No. Guitar players like guitars. Existential guitar truth #1 - there's no such thing as "too many guitars". No logical reason required to want another beyond "I want it! I have money!". Existential guitar truth #2 - there's no way a non-musician can fully comprehend this. UNLESS - Many women have extensive collections of shoes. Or handbags. Some of these cost as much as fine guitars! If your wife is one of these, or has a friend who has such a collection, that's your out!
    1 point
  43. Point taken and addressed by @lawrence_Arps. No, you didn't, and nobody stated or implied that you did. You need to take your own advice!
    1 point
  44. The Variax is a Swiss Army knife: It’s not going to replace the right tool for the job, but it’s great to have in the field (gigging and recording). Though, if you’re just playing at home and using the Variax to feel like you’ve replaced a variety of guitars, you’re likely to eventually ditch it for the one you miss most.
    1 point
  45. Here are some free IR links, some you need to subscribe to get some free stuff but that's no biggie: https://wilkinsonaudio.com/products/gods-cab https://seacowcabs.wordpress.com https://redwirez.com/pages/the-marshall-1960 https://www.ownhammer.com/store/index.php?ma (new free pack in development, so one to watch for) https://pluginfox.co/products/catharsis-impulses https://www.soundwoofer.se https://tonejunkiestore.com/impulse-responses-1 https://laptopguitarist.com/category/downloads/cabinet-impulses/
    1 point
  46. I've been living in a 4 presets/4 snapshots world pretty much since snapshots happened. Lately I've been wishing you could set up some patches that way, some all stomps, and some all snaps. Each patch could just remember which switch layout was selected at the time you saved it. If you always live in one layout and never change it, you don't have to do anything, every patch will remember that one same mode. Ideally though, just to prevent unintentional inconsistencies, there should be a global setting to turn per-preset such layouts on or off. Does that seem useful? Any downsides? Worth putting on IdeaScale?
    1 point
  47. Great idea. Just have the preset remember what mode it was in when it was last saved.
    1 point
  48. Another plus of per-patch layouts is that it makes working with patches built by someone who uses a different layout trivial. If you've ever bought or downloaded patches with for instance 10 stomps when you use 4+4, the only way to even see what's on offer is to change to the layout they use, which means you can't use your own stuff right until you switch it back. With per-patch layouts, if they didn't come with the appropriate layout already built in, it's easy to do it yourself. Just switch to that mode, then save each of them, then they'd each be in the mode the author intended, without messing up your other patches.
    1 point
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