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Thanks. So I’m not going crazy…. at least not yet …. just a little slow on the uptake ;-) I haven’t used IRs since the OG Helix new Cab engine was released so I missed that change.

Again...you can change what IR is loaded per snapshot. This is a screen shot from the online manual link I posted above. It was available on the OG Helix devices, also. Audio dropout was always minimal on the OG devices in my experience. I haven't tried on the stadium yet, so I can't tell you if it's noticeable or not.

agree with you

Just want to check the basics….. You don’t mention your Variax model. Is it JTV or later? If not you need to be using the original Workbench program, not Workbench HD.

As long as your Helix device has a VDI connection (Floor, LT, and Rack models) and you are using a VDI cable then yes, it should work fine on computers (Win/Mac) that have not outpaced Line 6 support. The last post in this thread was more than 3.5 years ago. No product is supported forever. The Variax product line reached EOL years ago and is no longer being manufactured. I don’t know if Workbench HD has remained compatible with new OSs. If it’s not working for you open a support ticket to find out why.

What is a "Preset Stomp button"? The HX Stomp has: Buttons: VIEW, ACTION, PAGE/PAGE Footswitches: Footswitch 1, 2, 3 Knobs: Knob 1, 2, 3, upper Knob, lower Knob, VOLUME

LT has only 8 assignable switches. But you can disable the up/down buttons with a hack I provided in that video above. However, still you are stuck with exactly 8 buttons that you can assign things to in Command Center, no way to make the up/down buttons do anything else on the LT.

I've seen Trower a few times over the years and his pedal layout is consistent and very minimal. Strat (usually neck pickup) >> overdrive >> wah >> univibe >> Marshal plexi. I believe there are a couple of rig rundowns you can find on youtube.

Just made this, free for everyone who likes it, enjoy it.

I suggest, (if you have some DSP available) to put in your chain the X IR you want as separate blocks. I don't know if you can change IR with snapshot but even if you can , there will be a gap in the change due to the loading. That's not the idea with the snapshot functionality. As contrary if you put 2 blocs and active/desactive the desired block with the snapshot functionality, you won't have this issue cause the 2 IR will be loaded at the preset selection.

Open a support ticket.

Use HX Edit to back up your Presets. then perform a Factory Reset. Line 6 Device Factory Reset Procedures | Line 6 Knowledge Base If that doesn't work, contact support.

it took me nearly 10 years to adopt snapshots, mainly out of laziness/stuck in my ways, but when i finally did there was no going back. makes life SO much easier!

Hi all, I am really tired of this unit, honestly. I mean since nearly one year when I bought it the WIFI issue is still not solved. And also the snapshot values seem to randomly change (and has also been reported since months). I need to prepare for a gig and I have to work on about 40 to 50 patches with various parts. it is a nightmare. And I do not want to read about what Line 6 achieved with the few new amp models in the recent updates and the clones and showcase. These bugfixes are the bread and butter of a unit like this. You simply still cannot use it because it is not reliable and all the work takes three to four times longer. Don´t know if anyone of Line 6 is reading this post but I think I speak for a lot if not all users who simply want a working unit first before you work on more features.. Sorry for my frustration but I am thinking about selling it.. The overall concept and architecture is so great but it is too much to deal with.. Cheers..

I played at an outdoor festival this weekend on a stage with a canopy, using a sunshade over the Stadium, with the brightness of the scribble strips set to 100%, and still I could barely read the scribble strips. The problem is two-fold. The OLEDs aren't nearly bright enough, and the glass picks up reflections so you have to move around to find an angle where you can read the text. The scribble strips for the active buttons were faint, but they could be seen. The OLED pixels for the inactive buttons are dimmed so they were nearly impossible to read even when I bent over for a closer look. The LED rings around the buttons could not be seen. Had it not been for the canopy, I believe that the Stadium may have been rendered unusable. I submitted a support ticket a while back about the poor visibility of the scribble strips. I doubt that they can turn up the brightness much without damaging the OLEDs, but there are some things that could be done to improve the visibility. My suggestion is that they could create a "performance" setting which eliminates dimming of the inactive buttons. Instead, all OLEDs would be at maximum brightness, and the active buttons would have the pixel colors inverted to designate the buttons which are active. Something similar to the attached concept image. They still wouldn't have the high visibility of an LCD display, but it would be an improvement. I love my Stadium, but I have a number of outdoor gigs this summer and if I end up in direct sunlight situation, the Stadium may be unusable. I play in three different bands and I'm one of those guys that creates a lot of song-specific presets, so memorizing what each button does in order to use the unit blindly is not an option. I really don't want to do it, but I plan to take my Boss GT-1000 as a backup to all outdoor gigs just in case the Stadium is impossible to use.

Just a thought; If they cannot make the scribble strips any brighter then another possible solution that might make the text more visible is to reverse the colors (white background with black text). It could be a simple global setting. I don't know if this would improve visibility or not, but its something they could try.

Glad to see this thread. Been having the same issues with my Stadium. MacBook Pro - Tahoe 26.1. Strong internet connection. Both Stadium and MacBook are connected to wifi without issue, just no communication between the 2. Initially it connected, but would drop connection after a few minutes. Now it won't even connect to stadium, despite it showing as available on the app. Would love to forgo the wifi and connect directly with a USB line directly into the unit, however that feature does not appear to be available other than to update firmware.

I’m having the same trouble as others. Can’t keep it connected to the helix editor for more than 30 seconds max.

Mine periodically disconnects. My WiFi signal is strong, so it must be a bug.

What did you end up settling on regarding equipment, effects, EQ, etc., to get your acoustic sound, when you had the resources? This doesn't answer your initial question directly, but I mostly ended up abandoning the idea of trying to emulate the sound of an acoustic guitar amp though my Helix. For me nothing beats a great sounding acoustic guitar through a well-positioned mic into the PA. However, the ease of use of my piezos through the Helix is what I have ended up playing for years now when I am not on electric. Consistent, predictable sound, no feedback, no bumping the mic with the guitar, no picking up random background stage noise. Also doesn't hurt that when I switch back to a Helix electric guitar preset, it mutes the acoustic by default. Over the years I have tried various acoustic IRs and the Studio Tube Preamp and even the 'Jazz Rivet' (Roland Jazz Chorus) amp. Although I still select them now and then for a specific sound, I most often find myself dialing up my presets that omit preamps, amps, cabs and IRs and focus instead on getting the EQ, compression, chorus, reverb, & delay right. I always have a gain switch set up for solos; gotta have it for soling on acoustic with a full band. Going direct from the Helix has its advantages and gets a very respectable tone.

1) On the JTV-59 Bridge, Loosen the small Allen "set-screw at the back of the tailpiece" first 2) Raise the bridge by inserting the correct larger size Allen wrench into the top of the bass side bridge post 3) After the action is set the way you like, re-tighten the small Allen screw from step #1