Leaderboard

The way I read it, some CCs are RESERVED for GLOBAL FUNCTIONS. These are called when CCs are sent on MIDI Channel 1. Use MIDI Channel 2 for USER ASSIGNED CCs.

Anyone else having compatibility issues with Windows and the Spider remote app? I cannot connect the device at all. Its clearly connected for sound as my laptop plays sound through it just fine, and the settings on the amp itself work fine but I cannot get the two to talk to each other. I have uninstalled and reinstalled, done all the usual stuff. It was working fine a couple of weeks ago but now wont connect at all. I did note that when I re downloaded the app, Windows had flagged the download as being unsafe (or words to that effect) so dont know if that has anything to do with it?

Sharing this because I went crazy trying to figure it out, and maybe it’ll save someone else some time. A few days ago, I tried logging into Line 6 Helix Stadium, but the QR code never appeared. The manual login didn’t work either. To make things worse, the HX Stadium App kept crashing, and I couldn’t update it from my computer or through Line 6 Central. Ironically, those were the two options the manufacturer recommended when I contacted support. Since I work in tech, something didn’t add up. Everything pointed to the app not connecting to the server, which explained why the QR wouldn’t generate. Then I thought: “What if it’s the time zone?” I tried something simple: Disabled automatic time synchronization Set the time manually And… BOOM! The QR popped up instantly, and I was able to log in without any issues. Hope this helps someone out there.

Not ideal but you could pick up an old laptop that runs an old OS that is compatible with the original Workbench program that is compatible with your Variax 700. That will allow you to create alternate tunings and store them with the model in your V700. The Helix LT will never be fully compatible with your V700 but in some cases it will successfully store and recall V700 models in LT presets. However this is not supported and may not work for you.

Now that you've excluded the power supply from the list of possible causes two things come to mind that you can give a try: 1) You mentioned you reseated the "main" ribbon cable. The HX Effects actually contains two primary ribbon cables: The wide main ribbon cable connecting the main processor board to the display/footswitch board. A smaller, secondary ribbon cable that specifically routes power and control data to the upper scribble strip/LCD assembly. If the main processor tries to boot, queries the secondary display board, and receives a short circuit or no response due to a bad connection, the bootloader will crash and force a reset loop. Open it back up. Disconnect both ribbon cables. Clean the gold contact fingers on the ends of the cables using 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a Q-tip. Ensure they are seated absolutely straight and deeply into their Molex plastic collars before locking them down. 2) Because you just did an update while the unit was in a semi-broken state, it is possible there is a corrupted global settings file or "problem preset" causing a boot crash. Even with blank screens, you can force a hardware reset using the physical switches: Turn the unit OFF. Press and hold Footswitch 6 (top right switch) and the TAP switch simultaneously. Turn the unit ON while holding those down. Keep holding them for about 10-15 seconds. If it successfully clears the state, the boot loop might stop, allowing the displays to spring back to life. Good luck finding the cause of the issue, share if you find it.

This seems to be a question about gain staging, which is a whole world of its own. In the digital world there is an opportunity for clipping and harshness to occur at virtually all points in your signal flow, especially if you increase a block's Level parameter above 0db. This can potentially overdrive the input of any following block(s) causing clipping and harshness. The Stadium's Output block will tell you if/when clipping is occurring, as described in the manual. If it is, you need to identify which block(s) in the signal chain is causing it and reduce the output level of that block. In my experience the best way to do that is to bypass all blocks and listen to the effectively dry incoming signal. If the Output block still shows clipping then you need to reduce the level of the incoming signal from external equipment, or address it in the Input block by lowering the Trim parameter. After all blocks are bypassed and the Input Trim is reduced if required, then you begin to turn the processing blocks ON one at a time. I generally begin with the amp . If that introduces clipping at the Output block you need to lower the Gain, Level, or Master level - or perhaps the Tone stack levels - in the amp block. These interact with each other so you may need to adjust more than one. Then I move on to the cab block which can introduce fizz and harshness. Experiment with mics, and Hi/Low cut levels. Once the Output block is no longer clipping with amp/cab active, and you don't find the tone too harsh, you can move on to other blocks in the preset. Continue to activate them one at a time. If clipping appears at the Output block, lower the levels in the offending block. Rinse and repeat until your preset no longer shows clipping at the Output block. Tedious? Yes. But learning how to properly gain stage your signal path is a critical part of preset and tone development. The art of Gain Staging is not specifically a Line 6 or Stadium topic. It's a general audio engineering art/skill. Google and/or your favourite AI agent can help you learn more.

This is a comprehensive set of new feature requests. The official way to submit such requests is here: https://line6.com/company/contact/productfeedback/ What I don’t understand is why you request these features in the context of so-called ‘worship’ music. Would they not be helpful in any other context? Perhaps I am a member of a Satanic Worship, or Death Metal, cult. I could use those features too. Why the exclusive approach? A cult is a cult, under any name.

Hi See the section of the Helix Owner’s Manual regarding USB Audio on page 73. Your playback from the iPad and the Camera Connection Kit is via USB 1&2 through the Helix “Multi IN”, additional controls can be found on page 68, Global Settings In/Out - USB1&2 Destination, and USB1&2 Trim. https://line6.com/data/6/0a00051afda2673ccc1cc8e68/application/pdf/Helix 3.80 Owner's Manual - English .pdf Hope this helps/makes sense.

AFAIK, Line 6 don't monitor this forum - you need to send a Feature Request https://line6.com/company/contact/productfeedback/

Hi, When seeking assistance from other users, it’s a good idea to provide as much information as possible. In this instance it would help to tell us what Helix unit you are trying to control, with what expression pedal - make/model. Not all third party expression pedals will work straight out of the box. I don’t recall that anyone has compiled a list, but IIRC, some pedals may require a little bit of work with a soldering iron to rewire, or modify jack plugs. Please clarify, and please note the default settings are EXP 1 is assigned to Wah and EXP 2 is Volume. The can be changed in the controller assignment. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Glad you are happy with the new Unit. The O.G. Helix PDF Manual is still out there. The new one does not exist as a PDF but is entirely online. The entire eco-system of the Stadium is somewhat different than the O.G. Helix. I have gotten exact matches of the O.G. presets to come in perfectly into the Stadium and they sound great. But other times, they sound really bad. I have developed a whole new methodology for building presets in the Stadium. So far, It has been hit or miss on whether they sound better than they would on the O.G. Helix. But there is definitely more flexibility on the new Stadium. But those Agoura Amp models can chew up your DSP so you think that you are working on the old Helix. I have found many blocks seem to come through the mix more than the old Helix and I find myself dialing them back. I also have had some interaction between blocks work a little differently. An example is that I had a O.G Helix preset with an Autoswell block and a Compressor as I would get the compressor the flatten out and give the Autoswell block something to work with and it worked great on the O.G. Helix. But on the Stadium, the Compressor and Autoswell appear to fight each other and I found that I could put the Autoswell between the Amp and Cab and that worked better. Wierd. I am a modeler guy but some of the things that I have done to get the sound that is in my head are probably not what I would do with a real pedal board. I just like the idea of swapping out pedals and trying things out WAY easier than dealing with physical pedals. Experiment some, and if you don't like what you are getting - then try a different approach. Like the Compressor and Autoswell - I am not one for convention and what I think would make sense. if it works for you then share it on CustomTone. I think that presets should be free for all. The stuff I have paid for is good. But I can usually do better for free - sometimes, if it is worth the time and effort.

SOLVED! Wow what a bunch of hoops I had to jump through. 1. I had to "manage bitlocker" in windows settings to "suspend bitlocker" on my drive. 2. windows update>Advanced options>recovery>advanced startup and clicked "Restart" there. 3. On the startup screen "Troubleshoot>Advanced options> Startup settings" then restart again. 4. Option 7 on the startup screen "Disable driver signature enforcement" Then I logged in as normal, reinstalled the Variax USB Interface drivers and Workbench recognized my Variax.

No regrets/remorse. Here's why. I play rhythm guitar with our church worship team. We've moved away from amps - replacing them with Kemper heads going direct to FOH. Given advancements in modelers, this January I decided to try moving away from my rather large/heavy pedalboard for a number of reasons: More control over my ecosystem. I'm not limited to the amps+cabs in the church Kempers. Have found some great clones from Signal Theory that work nicely with the guitars I play. The Helix also gives me greater flexibility in signal chain. I have a wide selection of solid drives and effects at the touch of the screen. The Helix allows me to put wet effects/modulation before OR after the amp+cab. I walk in, plug into the FOH, and play. Total set up time - 5 minutes. Workflow. Preparation for a weekend set is streamlined with the Helix Stadium software compared with programming the RJM PBC/10 on my pedalboard. I can quickly achieve the tones in my head and focus on my parts in the song set. I've also reduced the number of devices requiring software updates. Midi control. While I've been able to dial in my tones with the Helix effects and third party presents/clones, there are some pedals (like the Strymon TimeLine) that are hard to rival. I have a sidecar board (Pedaltrain Nano) with one or two pedals that sit in a stereo effects loop with preset selection and midi clock controlled by the Helix. Just finished setting that up today. I can place that loop anywhere in signal chain. Presets and tap tempo change automatically with the selection of song presets. Sound. I'm getting tone out of the Helix that I've struggled to get from my pedalboard through both live amps and the Kemper. Plain and simple. For me, it's a better tool for artistic performance. That could be me or that could be the Helix, but it's what I'm experiencing. I'm also getting rave reviews from other members of the worship team, our sound enginerrs, and from the congregation. I'm not getting any younger. Quite frankly, my old pedalboard and case (even with wheels and handle) were getting to be a pain to haul around. Heavy and cumbersome. The Helix sits on my desktop at home for practice and slides easily into a comfortable backpack for transport. The sidecar board and cables fit into an easy-to-carry soft case the size of shoebox. One trip from my vehicle to stage door (including my guitar). Support. Given the Line 6 commitment to the Helix thus far, I feel that I can count on them strongly supporting this platform going forward. So far, so good. I also see third parties providing really solid amp clones and presets. There is a lot of choice out there. That's all I got. I'm happy with my choice. It's confirmed every time I plug in.

The course is completely free!

Hi everyone, I’ve been closely following the recent launch of Neural Amp Modeler (NAM) Architecture 2 (A2) and the TONE3000 platform. Seeing that HeadRush has already announced native NAM support for their Prime, Core, and Flex Prime units, I was wondering if anyone has heard any news or official statements from the Line 6 team regarding a possible integration? As many of you know, NAM A2 is a fully open-source protocol (MIT licensed), which should make it easier for manufacturers to implement. According to recent industry tests, the A2-Lite architecture is efficient enough to run on budget chips while maintaining incredible accuracy, even outperforming traditional modeling in blind listening tests. Having native integration and access to the TONE3000 API would be a game-changer for the Helix ecosystem. It would allow us to: Load high-quality captures directly without lossy third-party conversions. Access a massive library of over 350,000 free tones directly from our devices. Keep our Helix/HX units at the forefront of the "open tone" era. Does anyone know if this is on the roadmap or if any staff member has commented on it? It would be amazing to see Line 6 embrace this technology and not stay behind its competitors in this new era of neural captures. Thanks!

Mine was purely the headphone output. A longshot, but try the squirty-squirty contact cleaner trick on both volume and headphones pots - it might be a clump of guitarist dander stuck in there!

I played at an outdoor festival this weekend on a stage with a canopy, using a sunshade over the Stadium, with the brightness of the scribble strips set to 100%, and still I could barely read the scribble strips. The problem is two-fold. The OLEDs aren't nearly bright enough, and the glass picks up reflections so you have to move around to find an angle where you can read the text. The scribble strips for the active buttons were faint, but they could be seen. The OLED pixels for the inactive buttons are dimmed so they were nearly impossible to read even when I bent over for a closer look. The LED rings around the buttons could not be seen. Had it not been for the canopy, I believe that the Stadium may have been rendered unusable. I submitted a support ticket a while back about the poor visibility of the scribble strips. I doubt that they can turn up the brightness much without damaging the OLEDs, but there are some things that could be done to improve the visibility. My suggestion is that they could create a "performance" setting which eliminates dimming of the inactive buttons. Instead, all OLEDs would be at maximum brightness, and the active buttons would have the pixel colors inverted to designate the buttons which are active. Something similar to the attached concept image. They still wouldn't have the high visibility of an LCD display, but it would be an improvement. I love my Stadium, but I have a number of outdoor gigs this summer and if I end up in direct sunlight situation, the Stadium may be unusable. I play in three different bands and I'm one of those guys that creates a lot of song-specific presets, so memorizing what each button does in order to use the unit blindly is not an option. I really don't want to do it, but I plan to take my Boss GT-1000 as a backup to all outdoor gigs just in case the Stadium is impossible to use.

Open a support ticket. Line 6 will need to be involved.

I have progress but not complete success yet, and some important info that I originally thought might not be important. This started with a shot of Fireball getting kicked onto the unit. Wiped it off at the gig, didn't seem like a lot of liquid but it probably got in around the displays and maybe footswitches. (This was near the end of the night and the unit kept working through the last couple of songs). At home the following day when it didn't work right, I opened it and discovered the disconnected ribbon cable (possibly caused by my singer shaking the unit after wiping it) and assumed that was my actual/ only issue. After posting this I did notice sticky areas and in addition to your 2nd ribbon cable suggestion I cleaned the boards and the displays with isopropyl (once or twice over with a soaked toothbrush) and let it dry for a day. Today the displays are working again and I thought I was all good but it's still stuck in a boot loop. I tried a reset (tap +6) and another force update using line 6 updater. It updated to 3.8 but still keeps rebooting. I think I'll try to clean it more thoroughly (also will use 99%, this was 91%). AI suggests I may be screwed at this point (component fried) but it's worth a try.

I have a preset with a one switch looper and I press once nothing happens. I pressed the second time it starts to record and a second later it stops. At one point I had put in a midi command so that when I hit a different foot switch, it would stop the looper. I've been jumpering the midi in to the midi out so that it could trigger the stop command. It worked for a while and then it started doing this behavior that I stated above. I've tried deleting this. I tried clearing all the commands. I disconnected the mid in and out, but it keeps doing it. I have no idea how to fix this. If I start a brand new preset, it actually works correctly. Don't want to have to re-create all the presets that I've put in, but I can't figure out how to get this to work right again. I also have to log a complaint or suggestion however, you wanna look at it. In the list of looper commands we don't have a simple stop or a simple play. We have play/stop, which is not the same thing. Many times I perform solo and I have a basic sound then I hit the looper record a loop then I hit a different snapshot to get a lead sound but when I come back and hit the basic sound again I want the loop to stop as well as switch back to my other sound. Had this working for many years on the old helix and I'm very surprised that this command is now deleted from the new unit. Unit sounds great though LOL

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Thank you sir! Oddly, when I plugged everything in this AM and opened Workbench HD, it saw and connected to my JTV immediately. Go figure!

Thank you so much @theElevators!!

We all have heard by now that the JTV magnetic pickups should be between 6K and 8K DCR. We are told below that, the sound will be thin/weak, and above that, rolled off and dull. But that is not true for a "regular" guitar, the pickups sound as intended when wired in a typical guitar with volume and tone pots and pickup selectors. There is some variation with cap and pot values, but nobody recommends a narrow DCR range for a typical guitar unless you are trying to get a very specific sound. PAF? Fine. Duncan JB? Fine. Lipstick pickup? Fine. They sound how they sound, maybe you like it, maybe you don't, but there is no critical operating range for a standard guitar. From this, I conclude that the JTV electronics are not neutral/transparent compared to typical guitar wiring. When in magnetic mode, with or without a battery present, they are somewhere in the circuit and interact with the magnetics in a way that is different from your every day pots and caps. Has this every been discussed/disclosed here? I can't find it. Am I just wrong on my conclusion? If so, how to explain the 6K-8K range? Has anyone done any tinkering/testing to see how the circuit actually works?

I did a quick search and there doesn't seem to be a canned reese bass sound for the Helix. I'm assuming you're doing it on bass guitar. It's all subjective, but part of the sound is the vibrato, sometimes detuning, sub-octave (harmonizer to lower the pitch), some kind of a chorus, and distortion. All of these ingredients are available in the Helix. For detuning, you can use any harmonizer and harmonize it in unison with a few cents flat. I have personally used this trick on guitar to sound like bagpipes. With bass, if you do the detuning trick, then it will naturally start to pulsate, so you won't even need the vibrato effect; and you can dial in the rate by fine-tuning the out of tune note. Here's the detuned trick on guitar linked below, if interested.

That is all expected behavior. If you want to "create a proper bi-amping patch the way many bass rigs are built" nothing is stopping you from doing that after the split (usually a hard left-right panned Split Y, but a Crossover Split can also work - although it seems a bit radical). I mean you would set amps differently and probably choose different amps in a bi-amping situation anyways, wouldn't you? There are some very little DSP demanding amp sims like the Del Sol 300 if needed. https://benvesco.com/store/helix-dsp-allocations/

There is a Level parameter in the Global EQ that you could use for that.

I don't think it's in your head. Remember, the original Helix hardware is like 10 years old, so it follows that the new hardware has improvements in the D/A conversion and whatnot. Check CustomTone to download some proxy clones. There's also an old thread on the Gear Forum digital modeling website where people posted some proxy clones that haven't shown up on CustomTone. I uploaded some Metal Zone captures, but I don't think they turned out so good (maybe user error or maybe just cuz the Metal Zone is, uh, "special"), compared to other community clones I've heard.

I had something like 270+ presets I ported over from my Helix. One of the more notable issues from that was that sometimes the switches got reversed for the reverbs where i had the mix level higher when the switch was on, originally; in the Stadium, some of the patches reversed the switches. I've found Agoura amps are not always better for certain presets I had already made with the HX versions. My early Van Halen one that I made on the OG sounded noticeably worse with the Agoura Marshall Plexi, in terms of getting "that" sound; the high end sizzle was gone, so I stuck with the HX Plexi. My mid-90s Helloween patch made with the Ecstasy red channel also didn't quite give me the same sizzle when I replaced the XTC with the Agoura version. In other cases, the Agoura replacements were definitely more accurate. I think maybe they really focused on the midrange w/ Agoura, and maybe neglected the high end a bit? They really need to fix up that initial startup process- there'll be people who will return the Stadium, thinking it's broken, when they are unable to log into Line6 to update it, due to the clock issue. My first unit actually got bricked when I thought I had updated it, tried dragging some proxy clones into it, and then realized the update had only downloaded, and not been installed. After updating, the unit got stuck during the resets, and trying to do the manufacturer restore did not work at all. I think the updating process may need a change in the prompts, maybe make it install automatically once it is downloaded. I view the Stadium as an expensive investment in the future potential of the unit, but at this moment, it already is paying off, with all the proxy clones, and all the stuff I already liked about the Helix being there. And of course, that sexy, sexy touch screen.

I believe that when Stadium starts up it momentarily loads the preset that was active at shutdown. However, it then consults Showcase and loads the preset, if any, specified in the active Song. To ensure that Showcase does not change the preset, load a Song that does not specify a preset before shutdown.

You could put a Gain block at the beginning of the chain and then add a Stomp button to toggle it on and off. Set the level of the Gain block to whatever boost is needed to bring it to the level of your high output guitar. You can even name the Stomp button to be "Strat" (or whatever name is appropriate). Save the Gain block with the settings and then its easy to plant the same block into new presets.

FWIW, this is an AI summary of what I just went through to finish setting up my Stadium XL: Oh yeah...and I just bought a Stadium XL. Solved: Helix Stadium XL wouldn't connect to Windows 11 app (Code 28 / Wi-Fi Connection Required / Norton 360 Deluxe) I wanted to post my experience in case it helps someone else. System: Windows 11 CyberPower PC (Ethernet connection) Helix Stadium XL (Wi-Fi connection to the same home network) Norton 360 Deluxe Symptoms Connected the Stadium XL to the PC with a USB-C cable. Windows did not play the device connection sound initially. Device Manager showed: Audio devices were present. Helix Stadium Bulk Transfer appeared under Other devices with a yellow exclamation point. Device status showed Code 28 (drivers not installed). The Helix Stadium desktop application displayed "Wi-Fi Connection Required" even though both the PC and Stadium reported they were on the same network. What fixed the USB driver problem The Stadium itself had a notification (hamburger menu) to install a downloaded firmware update. After installing the update: Windows immediately played the device-connected sound. The yellow exclamation point disappeared. "Helix Stadium Bulk Transfer" disappeared from Other devices. A new Line 6 category appeared in Device Manager with Helix Stadium XL, and Windows recognized the device correctly. So if you see a Code 28 error, make sure the Stadium firmware is fully updated before assuming there's a USB hardware problem. What fixed the Wi-Fi connection problem The Helix Stadium application still reported "Wi-Fi Connection Required." After troubleshooting, I discovered the issue was Norton 360 Deluxe Smart Firewall. As a test, I temporarily disabled Smart Firewall for 5 minutes. The Helix Stadium application connected to the Stadium immediately. That confirmed the firewall was interfering with local network discovery. Interestingly: Program Control entries were already set to Allow. There were no custom Traffic Rules blocking Line 6. My Ethernet network profile in Windows was already set to Private. After additional troubleshooting, everything began working normally and the application now connects successfully. Suggestions if you're having the same problem Update the Stadium firmware first. If Device Manager shows Code 28 for Helix Stadium Bulk Transfer, don't panic—the firmware update may resolve it. Verify your Windows network profile is Private. If you're running Norton 360 Deluxe, temporarily disable Smart Firewall as a test. If the editor immediately connects, you've confirmed the firewall is involved. Hopefully this saves someone else a few hours of troubleshooting.

Ah, just the charger,... that's problematic, but may work for a time. Sony chargers are quality chargers. The problem would be the CS brand batteries. Better to use the real Line 6 battery and charger, they are better matched to one another. Has to be some out there somewhere, just a matter of finding them. Cheers.

Hi, Way back at the dawn of electric guitar time, it was common to have some effect such as Tremelo, built in between the pre and power amp. There is absolutely no reason that you cannot compile a preset using a similar approach. In fact, available from Sweetwater is the “Big Book of Helix Tricks” version 1.5, by sometime forum contributor, @craiganderton Craig Anderton, in which he has included a free preset for purchasers to use. It is in the Free Files folder, Chapter 3, Vintage Echo Amp. As it is part of the download package when you buy the book, I am not allowed to share it here, but needless to say, it is vey simple to create something similar using a Preamp, an effect (eg Spring Verb), and a suitable cab. Keep on experimenting - in the digital world there is very little danger of blowing anything up. Hope this helps/makes sense.

The Stadium manual can be found under the Support link at the top of this page. Choose Manuals and then filter for Helix Stadium. It is a rich format web based manual, not a downloadable pdf.

With Line 6 Central, you can downgrade the firmware to version 1.9 even on the Variax Standard.

Yes. My view is that you should use official Line 6 battery and charger and avoid any power mismatch problems. If you do use a battery make sure you use either the battery or the VDI connection at any given time, not both simultaneously.

Hi Helix Stadium XL Team, I own the Helix Stadium XL and often have it on my desk when working with it and not using in a live playing situation. I do this because like many of us, I'm not able to continuously lean down to use it while on the floor. I know I can use the Helix App, which I also use and think is really well done! When I'm working with the Stadium XL on the desk, I can use my 8 switch MIDI foot controller on the floor and between what I can reach over and physically tough on the XL and what I can do with the MIDI foot controller, I can simulate just about everything I want to do when testing things out to be ready to use the XL in a live situation when I move the XL to the floor. One big missing feature is having the ability to map switches on my MIDI foot controller to directly to each FootSwitch on the XL using CC MIDI commands (ie: MIDI CCx for FootSwitch 1 on the XL, etc). I see that this feature was available in prior Helix version, but seems to have been explicitly removed from the XL. I realize I can map midi from the foot controller to blocks that are assigned to foot switches, but what I'm talking about is the ability to map a foot controller switch directly to a specific Foot Switch on the XL, as was available in prior Helix models. Any chance you will bring this back? Thanks, Dan

1. There’s no ‘right’ placement of the IR in the signal chain. Do whatever sounds best to you. But you’re right that theoretically the IR placed immediately after the Input block would most accurately simulate the real world where the guitar body resonance can’t be separated from the string vibrations. 2. I generally avoid using an electric guitar amp/cab model when using my Variax acoustic models, for the exact reason you mention. I use the studio preamp model along with compression, reverb, and EQ as desired, and Chorus, Delay to taste if desired. I use studio monitors (FRFR). I find the most important thing about using the Variax acoustic models is about adapting my playing style; a lighter strumming technique with a very soft pick, and a more accurate solo touch.

I have the same problem with the conflict between Windows 11 Memory Integrity and the L6PODHD564.sys driver for my POD HD500. I was going to buy the Helix but not so sure anymore.

Got an HX One this weekend and the white noise is unbearable with a distortion pedal after it or in the loop. Tried several distortion pedals including a DOD 250 which is pretty basic. I sent it back. I don't know if it's a "batch" problem or an inherent design flaw but the pedal isn't usable in this scenario. It's a shame because there's so much potential.

Got the same problem chain is: guitar - HXone (pre) - Boss SD-1 - JCM800(cranked pre-amp) - Chorus - HXone (post) - dalay - return. I don't have the problem without the HXone so my quess is that the HXone's noise is just loud enough to get really fking noisy when going to a SD-1 and cranked JCM. It would be nice if Line6 is responding to this problem :)

Exactly the same here ... wanted to make myself a x-mas present ... big disappointment. Running it in 4CM into a Bluguitar Amp1. Crazy that Line6 did not remedy this for good (HX Effects had the prob back in 2019 or so ...). It needs to go back I am afraid. Any useful reply from Line6??? https://youtu.be/MvNk86m8VXc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giKZXMwU0yc

Not sure if this will do anything but if you have some Deoxit D5 https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2JXN83RXV0EW9&keywords=deoxit&qid=1688052672&sprefix=deoxi%2Caps%2C383&sr=8-3 or something like it, put a spritz of it in there. Maybe even just do a puff of compressed air into the ouput.

I got solution: HINT: please backup bundle to save your existed presets and IRs! 1. Go to settings >> Preset/IRs >> Clear Preset Library. After that all preset banks will be empty, even the factory ones. 2. Then, click Reset Factory Setlists on the same page. Now, all banks can be loaded with no hassle. Try it, lemme know how it works for you..

I’m using a TRS to TRS cable with mine. Try this: Connect a TRS cable from the Stomp EXP/FS jack to the SP1 Out 1 jack. Press the PAGE left/right buttons at once to go to the MENU. PAGE right once and select Global Settings. Upper Knob scroll to Preferences. PAGE right once. EXP/FS Tip = EXP 1 EXP/FS Ring = FS5 Tip Polarity = Normal. Press VIEW to exit the MENU. Go to the Preset Edit View. Make a Wah or Volume Pedal block (you can only have one per preset). Press the PAGE left/right buttons to the MENU. Select Controller Assign. Param = Psition Controller = EXP 1 Press the PAGE left/right buttons to the MENU. Select Bypass Assign. Switch = FS5 Type = Latching Press VIEW to exit the MENU. Save the Preset with the block off.

Hey! SOLVED! So, here's the final setting that works for me! You'll need: a Dunlop Mini Volume (X) MIni DVP4 a normal 1/4 TS cable, which is actually 6.3 jack cable patch. Follow the steps as downtowndalebrown suggested Step 1 - Open up the back of the Volume Pedal and make sure the dip switches are set to Exp and Ring Step 2 - In Global Settings on the HX Stomp, set Ring Polarity to Inverted. UPDATED step Step 3 - Plug the patch cable into the 1/2 EXP input jack of HX Stomp - Plug the other side of the cable in the AUX input jack of the DVP4 CONSIDERATIONS: It still doesn't work if I insert the TS cable in the OUTPUT input jack of the DVP4 I hope it will help

There's no way to change that globally, unfortunately... Unless you're saving from a single preset and modifying copies of it, I'm not sure why you're getting a single Snapshot which is defaulting to anything other than the non-dimming Red. That could actually point to an issue in the firmware or even hardware. But try changing it on one preset and see if it 'sticks': - Go to the preset you want to change. - Push in the Preset knob/button. - From the resulting screen, turn knob 5 to select the Snapshot you want to change (assuming it's not already on the correct one). - Once selected, push knob 6 ('Rename Snapshot'). - Knob 5 ('LED color') can now be rotated to cycle through the LED colours. 'Auto-color' will get it back to the default red. NOTE: IF YOU MANUALLY SELECT RED, YOU WON'T GET THE 'DEFAULT' BEHAVIOR; YOU'LL GET RED = ON & DIM RED = OFF - a very handy feature if you want to show with DIM LEDS the available Snapshots at a glance, even if you want them to remain Red. - Select OK (Knob 6). - Save your results. - If required, change back to the Snapshot you want to Default to when selecting that preset, and re-save after that. See if that works AND stays as you intend it. If not, there's a deeper issue at work here. If this works, you'll have to go through this process on each preset you want to change in this manner.

The first solution directly on the guitar doesn't work (impossible to obtain red light, I don't know why). I had already tried. The second is right, updating firmware with Monkey, but without forgetting to select "no" when it asks "do you want to keep the patches on the instrument?". It's logical... :) Thanks again, very cool forum (for a cool guitar)