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I discovered this software bug while attempting to program the expression pedal to turn the WAH block ON as soon as it begins to rock back. Helix OG has this capability and so does Stadium, however currently there is a bug that prevents it from functioning properly. This drove me nuts when I tried to set it up because it worked sometimes but not all time, then I finally figured that there's a software bug preventing it from working properly. The Objective: I have a song where I need to quickly toggle the WAH on and off and its not practical to do a hard press of the toe button between every ON-OFF cycle, so the effect can be easily accomplished by programming the expression pedal to turn the WAH ON automatically by rocking the expression pedal back. When the pedal is returned to the toe-down position the WAH block turns off. This action can be assigned in Stadium by selecting the WAH block, then going to Menu>Bypass/Control, set the Parameter to "Bypass", Switch to EXP 1, Position 99%, and Wait to 0. The toe-down position is 100%, so when the pedal is rocked back, the WAH block turns on as soon as the pedal crosses the 99% mark. The Bug: When the assignment is created as described above the pedal appears to do exactly what it should. The preset is saved with the WAH block in an OFF state. The problem is that when you leave the preset and then return to it, the first time that you rock the pedal back, the WAH block does not turn ON as its programmed to do. You can rock the pedal all the way back to the heel-down position it it still doesn't turn on, BUT when you return the pedal to the toe down position the WAH now turns on. The ON-OFF state is now reversed from what it should be. Now when you rock the pedal back the WAH turns OFF instead of ON, so moving the pedal has no effect. When you return the pedal to the toe-down position the WAH turns ON. With the pedal in the toe-down position, you can manually toggle the bypass state of the WAH block to OFF, rock the pedal back and it turns on as it should, but if you leave the preset and return to the preset. it will once again reverse to ON-OFF state from what it should be the first time that you use it. This bug isn't related specifically to the WAH block. Any block that it programmed to be triggered on and off by the expression pedal will reverse its programmed state the first time you attempt to use it after opening the preset. The Workaround: While trying to figure out what was going on, I discovered that it is only the very first bypass assignment that you program within the preset that doesn't work properly. if you program additional blocks to also turn ON and when the pedal is rocked back they will function as they should, even after leaving the preset and returning to it. So here is my workaround: I deleted the WAH block to clear its assignment, then added a GAIN block to the preset and set the gain to 0, so it has no impact to the signal whether its on or off. I created an assignment to turn the GAIN block ON and OFF with the pedal motion. Next I added the WAH block and created its expression pedal assignment. I saved the preset and now when I return to the preset and rock the pedal back, the GAIN block does not change bypass states as it should, but this block is transparent to the signal so it doesn't matter. The WAH block does turn ON and OFF as its supposed to because its assignment isn't the first one created within the preset. I submitted a Support Ticket for this bug and the tech replied back that he was able to duplicate the problem so he has notified the folks in software. He also said he was surprised that this hadn't been reported already. I wanted to create this thread in order to share my workaround just in case anybody else besides me has been pulling their hair out trying to get this function to work properly.

Mine was purely the headphone output. A longshot, but try the squirty-squirty contact cleaner trick on both volume and headphones pots - it might be a clump of guitarist dander stuck in there!

I was frustrated that Helix presets and snapshots often have inconsistent volume levels. That's why I built an open-source tool that automatically measures and normalizes them. It comes as a Windows installer. No DAW required. https://github.com/noseglasses/MatchPatch This project is currently in beta. Feedback, ideas, bug reports, and contributions are welcome! I am a Helix floor user so I can only test on that device. But I am pretty positive that it works the same on its sibling devices. The project is designed in a way that it can be extended to support other devices like the Helix stadium. Hope you have fun with it!

Are all of your computers Windows 11? A recent update (maybe several) caused the problem. On one of my W11 boxes the problem was caused by a ".net Framework" update (KB5092427). Rolling back to a restore point previous to that update and preventing Windows Update from reinstalling it fixed the problem. On another W11 box I didn't have a similar restore point and simply uninstalling (KB5092427) didn't fix it. On my last remaining W10 box it's not an issue, USB MIDI works fine.

Especially when NAM v2 is now out and able to run on hardware with much fewer resources. Also - note the comparisons on the proxy / NAM / QC / ToneX quality. Not looking good for Line 6. https://www.tone3000.com/blog/introducing-neural-amp-modeler-nam-architecture-2-a2

[Fixed] Root cause was server issue with Line 6.

@waymda Yes of corse, very carefully !

I have a lot of experience with the live sound mix and my OG Helix. If you want to "cut" through the mix, there are several ingredients and lack thereof to achieve that. So number one: reverb sounds good at home, sounds good when you record your guitar directly, but live it buries you and make your playing unintelligible. If you have any type of hall reverb, it should be lowered to a minimum, or removed. Concert spaces have natural reverb, so you really do not need any, except for special effects, or for that drippy reverb sound that surf music requires. Instead of reverb, I use subtle ping-pong delay that bounces a few times left/right, but does not cover up the initial attach of the note/chord. There are also "ducking" reverbs that let the note ring out, before applying. Also for regular reverb, the "pre-delay" parameter is very useful to be able to hear the initial attack of the note, without which it becomes a mess. For live concerts, there's a separate independent mix done on purpose--to represent what it sounds like in the venue, by adding all the reverb, etc back to the sound. And I stress, it's an independent mix from the actual FOH sound mix. If a concert is broadcast on TV, there are 2 sound mixers working independently of each other. So while reverb sounds good and can make your playing sound smoother and better, for live use it's not to be overused. I've listened to board mixes of my live concerts where I played and the guitar doesn't necessarily sound great direct. But that's the whole point--your guitar's sound needs to work for the venue's acoustics, not to sound great as a concert recording. I've also reviewed concert footage that people have posted from their phones, and confirm that that it sounded great with plenty of ambiance. Number two: for solos my approach that has worked for me is always boosting the 2K frequency with an equalizer in my chain. Turning up the volume does not work due to limiters, and whatever else the sound system has. When I needed to really cut through the horns and all that stuff, I boosted it by 10 db for the solo snapshot. Nowadays I go from 2 to about 6 db. Some songs need a deafeningly-loud solo, some don't. So I play by ear. Also depends on the pickups that I use. Single coils already sound pretty glassy, so further EQ-ing is going to sound extremely piercing if overdone. You should not have too much of that 2K frequency, as it is known to be headache-inducing. And when boosting this frequency you will definitely be heard. In my old band I didn't constantly noodle all over the place, I had a few concise solos and that's when it was used. Also I've used it for clean lead lines as well, think "Day Tripper" by the Beatles. That's all 2K, but it's not constantly hitting you over the head, I'd never strum chords with that sound....

Sharing this because I went crazy trying to figure it out, and maybe it’ll save someone else some time. A few days ago, I tried logging into Line 6 Helix Stadium, but the QR code never appeared. The manual login didn’t work either. To make things worse, the HX Stadium App kept crashing, and I couldn’t update it from my computer or through Line 6 Central. Ironically, those were the two options the manufacturer recommended when I contacted support. Since I work in tech, something didn’t add up. Everything pointed to the app not connecting to the server, which explained why the QR wouldn’t generate. Then I thought: “What if it’s the time zone?” I tried something simple: Disabled automatic time synchronization Set the time manually And… BOOM! The QR popped up instantly, and I was able to log in without any issues. Hope this helps someone out there.

No such thing. The Helix replicates the studio sound, more than anything. When mixing, reverb is added post the amp/cab. The exception is the '63 reverb unit, when it was placed before the entire amp/cabinet. You can, however add the reverb before the cabinet, if you use separate amp and cab blocks. Honestly, it's all cork sniffing, and with some tweaking you can always get your desired sound. For example, you can experiment with adding a compressor + reverb between the amp and the cab.

Not that I know of. It has been requested before. Best you could do is do a pre or full amp without cab -> reverb -> cab.

Hi, My V60 has been serving me perfectly for 2 years now but over the past week neither my computer connection or my phone connection has identified the amp. I've tried different cables, different adapters and nothing works. The only differences are my Spider has been updated to 2.05 and my phone app is 2.0 but there is no update for the phone app. Any ideas?

@PoolieFritz My personal choice is Deoxit for the cleaner. It has never let me down.

Dear Support, can you pleas give an answer to this question. POD Go Edit 2.50 is designed for INTEL processors. When it will available for Apple chips? Thank you. Best regards Michael

Already submitted the feedback form, but thought if anyone else thinks it's a good idea, they can submit one as well. Strength in numbers, you know... I think it would be awesome if we could set up scribble strips to mimic the behavior of the Mode Selector strip on FS6 with two separate sections that can be selectively highlighted. It would be super useful for things like: multichannel amps (CH1 on one side and CH2 on the other side, etc.) Delay (Short vs. Long) Reverb (Large Room vs. Small Room) Distortion (Clipping Types, Boost switches, etc.) Any other setting with their exact values If you agree, feel free to use the official request form here.

Anyone else having compatibility issues with Windows and the Spider remote app? I cannot connect the device at all. Its clearly connected for sound as my laptop plays sound through it just fine, and the settings on the amp itself work fine but I cannot get the two to talk to each other. I have uninstalled and reinstalled, done all the usual stuff. It was working fine a couple of weeks ago but now wont connect at all. I did note that when I re downloaded the app, Windows had flagged the download as being unsafe (or words to that effect) so dont know if that has anything to do with it?

There was a hardware fault in the very early Pod GO units off the manufacturing line. It affected resistance in the input circuitry. It was resolved fairy quickly but it's possible that your older Pod Go unit has this fault and the later one does not. That could explain the difference. To be sure open a support ticket. If your old model is flawed Line 6 will repair it for free. Having said that, the repair would make the older unit sound like the newer one, which is not what you want. Get advice from Line 6 while your support ticket is open. And, of course, the issue could be something else. But start with this possibility.

Correct. No modeling changes. And there won’t likely be any further updates so you should be fine without the interface.

To get to the metronome, hold down FS6 (MODE). You can stop/stop the metronome from there (I think this is called "More Mode" or "Transport Mode"?). You can save a metronome setting per preset but you have to go back to that FS6 "more mode page" to turn the metronome off/on. I would like to be able to assign a foot switch to turn the metronome on and off within a patch (from the STOMP A or STOMP B configuration). That way, within a patch, I could do all my sound switching and still be able to turn the metronome on/off. Is there a way to assign the metronome on/off to a foots switch? If not, how is the best way for me to request this feature? I would find this setup useful at times in band rehearsal situations.

Time to clean the microswitches. A quick search of the forum, and you would have found this info. Enjoy!

Hi , You have this one: https://www.thomann.fr/thon_case_line6_helix_stadium_xl.htm Regards

The best, and only, way to officially report a bug is to open a support ticket. There is no way to review existing bug reports. This is actually a good thing because if there were a way to view them it might result in people experiencing a bug and not reporting it because it’s already been reported. It’s important for Line 6 to know how many people a specific bug is affecting. That helps prioritize the sequencing of bug fixes. Short story: if you think you have found a bug open a support ticket.

Not going to happen. Helix is nearing EOL and any future updates will be minor. You can run NAM on iOS or Android and use Helix for pre/post FX, so why should L6 waste resources porting NAM to Helix? Stadium is the future for L6, and Proxy is the L6 answer to ToneX/KPA/NAM/QC, XYZBTGPP-- etc. Staying AHEAD of their competitors.

Well, the info given by @rd2rk in the post above is correct, but you obviously didn’t look too far to find a video demonstrating how to use the Looper function on the LT - YouTube has quite a few, but here ya go:- Regarding your comment - “I hope Line 6 manuals writers read this as well“, you should make a note that this is a user to user forum. There are no Line 6 staff here and only very occasionally do they visit these forums - (See the “sticky comment” in the black banner stripe at the top of this page entitled “Welcome to the Line 6 forums”). Furthermore, the manuals were originally written, several years back, by Eric Klein (Digital_Igloo) Chief Product Design Architect at Yamaha Guitar Group, but he seems to have gone off in another direction and is rather busy with the new Stadium units. If you wish, you can usually find him hanging out in the Digital and Modeling section over on the TGP website, or the Helix Family area of Facebook. Hope this helps/makes sense.

The post you're replying to is 5yrs old, so that person might not still be around. If you're using a Helix AMP in your signal chain, then you can simply go direct to the physical amp's RETURN, running your rig the same way you'd use a traditional rig. However, this bypasses the physical amp's preamp section. Without some kind of an amp in the Helix signal chain, it probably won't sound all that great. So, if your goal is to simplify your setup, you can use Helix as either a traditional pedalboard with all effects into the physical amp's INPUT or as a traditional pedalboard with AIAB into the physical amp's RETURN. If you run 4cm you can choose, on the fly, to use either the physical amp's preamp or a Helix amp simply by assigning both the Helix amp and the FX S/R Block to the same FS. If you SAVE the preset with one ON and the other BYPASSED then each time you hit the FS you'll TOGGLE between the physical amp and the Helix amp. You can also use SNAPSHOTS for this, allowing you to change other parameters/devices at the same time from a single FS. You can even, DSP allowing, use multiple Helix amps for even more virtual "amp channels". You can place some FX (like OD, DIST, MODS) BEFORE the amps and some (like time based FX) AFTER the amps and the whole shebang will output through the physical amp's power amp and speaker. This is also convenient if you want to route the signal to FOH using an IR. One of the advantages of Helix is millions of options, but if you want SIMPLE you can do that, too.

I've noticed something: I used my Helix offline, away from home, with the group, and now, back home, the time changes about 5 seconds before my computer or phone. If I change the time manually and then back to automatic time with an internet connection, it's still about 5 seconds ahead. The first time I used my Helix, I couldn't log into my account, and it was due to a known bug: the time wasn't correct, even with an internet connection. I had to update it manually and then switch back to automatic. I don't know if this problem is similar...

When it comes to tightening pedals, one thing I've learned is that if you overtighten the outside screw, the force of moving the pedal can end up loosening the inside screws. This is the case for the Dunlop X pedals (mini and normal size); I don't know about the L6 EX2. My solution was to use Loctite on the inside screws and then having lighter tension on the outside screw.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say we'll see this in 2027. With the proven success of the HX, and an undeniably more solid core feature set today in Stadium then you would have had in 2016 with Helix . . . I just don't think they'll wait that long.

Funny you mention this, I’ve been wondering the same. I’d say it’s probably inevitable that a smaller version will come one day, and if you think about it, even L6 said the perfect modeller only has one footswitch, and that’s for irony of Showcase - for my use anyway, with Showcase I don’t need many footswitches or pedals, as if I play live I have everything set up to be automated, I ideally don’t need or want to have to operate anything manually. So a smaller unit with the same processing power and Showcase is all I need

Greeting fellow Helixers, So over the weekend I did the upgrade - went from 2.10 -> 2.50 (well had to hit 2.21 first). I have been using the Helix for about 1 1/2 years now, and I am in love with it... Helix + Ownhammers IRs = Heaven. After the upgrade, I only love it more. Anyway, I could have sworn you were able to edit Global Settings through the Editor application. I can't find the settings anywhere on 2.51, am I going crazy? My notes on 2.50- Startup is noticeably faster Really? A full state backup since 2.30 with Global Settings? Why didn't I upgrade sooner? Lonestar Amp is awesome, can't wait for the clean channel to be released. Were the blocks optimized to utilize less of the DSP? I read it on the forums a few times, but have not seen an official statement. -Still on my wishlist - ability to set individual Footswitches to Stomp/Snapshots, not just the 4/4 or all 8 settings. So you can do things like have 2 Snapshots and 6 Stomps displaying. Thanks for reading, and thanks to anyone who responds. Keep rockin'.

jmrwoods, thanks a lot for your response. Ultimately, I bought a XLR/TS cable with the good welds, and it works very well.

Unfortunately this is a quite common issue that usually boils down to local wifi and internet equipment, location, and configuration. Start by reading the manual sections on the Stadium App and WiFi, Internet and Bluetooth. See if your computer and household equipment, especially modem/router, meet the specs and supported technologies/devices. Search this forum for other info. The section under Support-> Knowledge Base and FAQs for Stadium includes this item https://kb.line6.com/helix-stadium-software-wifi-drop-outs-intermittent-connection

It would be the fastest way to get to the current standard or better.

Hi, Currently it only works with text prompts, I mainly use it to have a quick good basis for song covers. I have seen that Positive Grid just launched new Reactor with an app that allows you to create a sound based on pictures, sounds, textual prompts etc. Could be a good idea for an evolution of my own app, or for anyone that wants to contribute. Cheers

Very interesting article. Thanks for the link.

Indeed that seems to be my issue. Thanks.

I’ve never noticed any downside to any update I’ve done on my LT since got in 2017, the many updates have always involved upsides, never noticed any adverse impact on existing presets. But you know what, right now I’d relish the opportunity of a further update, bugs and any unintended preset alterations gladly accepted !

Soo validating to hear!! I too have felt the high gain captures sub par. I haven’t heard or seen this too much on the web. But the captures do not sound nearly as satisfying as in the QC. and Xone I totally have experienced the capture “improving” the amp somewhat on the QC. Particularly for high gain, tight rhythm tones, sometimes the QC doesn’t nail the amp perfectly but the result is somehow MORE inspiring to play. Haven’t experience that with Proxy. I really hope Proxy is a work in progress and improvements will be made.

You're trying to make something out of nothing. QC nails the feel, tone, and soul of an amp every time. Experience it over 2000 times, and you'll see what I'm talking about can't be quantified in a statement. It's just a rare phenomenon when it "sounds better". It can't really be explained with words. Line 6 is a long way from that.

Since USB features seems to take more time than they initially communicated (like the Expand D10 support), have you considered an RJ45 Ethernet to USB-A connection adapter if a change in Wifi accesspoint/router isn't an option? Please see the helpful comment in this thread: V 1.3 - still no fix for the WiFi issues Hopefully I'm not making a mistake in my thinking!

It does sound like a feasible way to do things - maybe that's the way L6 can implement this feature in the future! I am of an age though where I never trust what I read on the internet, and yet even with my inherent wariness, I find myself more and more reading the AI response to a Google search, where before I would always skip past it. Thing is, at least WE know that it's very possibly inaccurate, right?! The majority of people out there probably never stop to think about whether what they're reading is true or not - Confirmation Bias is everywhere these days! (in fact it's the very basis for the algorithms used by companies like YouTube and Amazon etc)

@RJKole Thanks for the update. I did note that the information @datacommando shared with the link concerning the 3.00 update had issues with DSP with the upgraded poly blocks and compatibility with new presets once you brought in your 2.92 backup. It was an implied, though not well stated, reason many of us rebuilt our patches during the initial 3.00 upgrade. Then 3.01 addressed the bug for the audio corruption based upon certain specific block order. It would be interesting since you say you are back at 2.92 to, remove all current poly blocks then upgrade only to 3.00, follow the procedure as you state you do. After that upgrade to 3.01 and let the firmware do the rebuild which should address the audio corruption following the recommended upgrade procedures as you do. 3.15 talks about the cc remapping that tanked some of us. We learned that hard way that while we could skip firmware updates we had to read all the warnings prior to that and accept the outcome. So I suggest before you do anything, and it is just a suggestion, you read the link @datacommando shared specifically for the warnings with each firmware update starting at 3.00 and determine your best path to get to 3.8x This is just my humble feedback. jpd jpd

Aside from a few bugs that were known (for example the glitch delay behaving differently), all your presets should be exactly the same before/after each update. I have 100's of presets and none of them sounded any different. The only big change was the "oversampling" update introduced in firmware version 3.10. I guess it technically is a sound difference, since it is an improvement to the overall sound--but not that you need to go and re-adjust anything. It just sounded marginally better :) The only thing that could have changed is global settings. But if you follow the firmware update procedure, you should always back up your Helix, upgrade, then reset to factory settings, and then restore from the backup.

I use both. Same identical sound if you use the same settings. amp and cab = amp block + cab block. I figured out that I can run a compressor between the amp and cab, and I do that sometimes. So that's the only time I will use 2 separate blocks, when I need to put something in the middle. The compressor to me is not suitable for every situation. But sometimes it really makes fast playing a lot easier, for all the shreddy solos, or really fast aggressive palm muting. It also makes clean solos sound like they are supposed to--compressed, bold, not whimpy. When placing the compressor there, I always turn down the ripple of my amp, otherwise there's a low frequency hum that appears. However at the same time the compressor adds a certain amount of "harshness" and depending on the signal chain can even make my preset develop certain artifacts, such as pops. So I use this trick sparingly.

Some like to load time based effects, gains, etc in between the blocks so separating them allows for that. I've done it and typically like the results when I do.

Instrument.

+1

Hmm… not sure. It’s very confusing because my account states: You currently are using 4 out of 5 active devices. You currently are using 6 out of 11 lifetime devices. No idea how that works out.

Not sure if this will do anything but if you have some Deoxit D5 https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2JXN83RXV0EW9&keywords=deoxit&qid=1688052672&sprefix=deoxi%2Caps%2C383&sr=8-3 or something like it, put a spritz of it in there. Maybe even just do a puff of compressed air into the ouput.

As Mr. Dragon said in his post, the issue i discovered was the failed solder points. As i opened the Helix i found that one or two cables has come loose quite a time ago making the twist for scrolling function not working for months. (Aaaand i discovered that my Helix was in a serious need of an internal clean up) The third cable came loose and the whole joystick died. I had to solder these back in place and strenghtened the solderpoints/small cables by adding some supporting silicone glue. In this way the solder points will not be moved as the joystick is used. this is definitively a weak point on the Helix, wich could be avoided if theese solderpoints/ cables has ben better supported with silicone or hot glue in the first place.