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  1. FIrst of all, I'd like to say thank you to everyone here that is helpful in their responses, but also those that ask questions that also prompt myself (and others) to approach things differently and explore a bit to educate yourself about rigs/blocks/effects etc. Big shout out to those who post video tutorials (Jason Sadites to name a primary one for myself, and others who just escape me at the moment). Those tutorials have helped me think about things and approach things without a guitar in my hand and allowed me to really do some neat things. Why all these words? My Stone Temple Pilots band had our first headlining show this past weekend. While the venue was, a'hem, not the grandest.....the crowd was into our setlist (after another band opened for 2 hours). All that is great....but my real satisfaction comes from programming my Helix and being happy with it, but also being efficient and well prepared for sound guys as we do not run our own sound and I dont like to let that control go away easily. HOWEVER.... While we performed great.....at the end while tearing down, I asked the sound guy (who I had already qualified as a great guy, knowledgeable, geeky like me with gear, and an overworker in his field compared to others) how my guitar sounded...and he said it sounded great. I asked what he did to help me get in the mix to file that information away when I make my next adjustments...and his response, "Dude, I didn't have to touch your guitar. I ran your guitar flat. Thats the first time I've ever run a guitar players rig flat. Anyone that has to EQ your guitar in a mix, needs to retune their PA!" I immediately put my arms in the air, and with a fist pump added a 'F*ck yeah'!! I then asked how my lead boosts were, and he said they were great. He literally had to do nothing to my guitar all night. I've never felt such satisfaction from a group of 25 presets in my playing life. 30 years, 16 of that is running direct (Boss, Line 6, Fractal). Just wanted to share as it was 2 days ago and I'm still proud of those comments. Edit: Oh, and yes....for those that say the stock cabs aren't good enough. Maybe in a studio realm they lack something a special IR does have. But my presets in this set all used 2 stock cabs in parallel.
    10 points
  2. A buddy of mine named Paul has a large collection of guitars. He is also a guitar tech and I was at his place one day while he was doing some work on my guitar. He was talking about his most recent visit to an auction sale where there were several guitars available. He said he wanted to buy more but in the end he settled on one Les Paul. His wife, overhearing the conversation, said “That’s what I need - one less Paul.”
    5 points
  3. Hi, There are stacks of threads on here discussing the reasons why HX Edit fails to open on Window machines Have you fallen foul of the dreaded SD Card in slot issue? That one seems to be the favourite cause of this problem. Here: Or here: Hope this helps/makes sense
    4 points
  4. What good is an electric guitar that simulates an acoustic guitar sound through an amplifier going to do at a camp fire where there is no electricity
    4 points
  5. Expression pedals are extremely simple devices.... If you have the Mission EP-1... you can easily mod it to the proper specs.... (for the 3rd image you need an EXP with a footswitch, and an HX Stomp)
    3 points
  6. Try inserting the Studio Tube Pre.... "Preamp > Mic > Studio Tube Pre" The "polarity" (normal / inverted) setting in that block is your phase inversion. IME, the Studio Tube Pre is extremely valuable when processing acoustic instruments. YMMV.
    3 points
  7. Back in the 80s/90s when CDs first came around, we had similar discussions (and then again when MP3 came around). As far as CDs go, I always found AAD to sound better than DDD. And today's bland mainstream music, I don't blame the digital. I blame all of the uber processed recordings - every auto-tuned note synchronized to a computerized timing clock. All while compressors/limiters make the volume for each note exactly the same. No amount of - "let's put it on vinyl" will make it sound any better. So, while not completely related, it is not unrelated to your question. You just have to look at all the factors, not just one. Because they all have a role in the final output. Even the L6 stuff, some people say they get better tone using it with a tube amp (but then they go and record on a computer). So, in that instance, it is the last stage of tone that brings out the 'warmth' for them. Change the speaker to get a little 'extra'. Everything else is that same bland digital that they hate, but the tube amp they like. How do they capture the tube amp warmth on a computerized recorder, is anyone's guess. Using myself as an example, I never used a tube amp. Once I 'completed' building my [previous/old] rig, it was all microchips. Nothing like today's digital experiences, but certainly not analog. But no one ever told me I was too digital/processed. No one ever told me my tone was lacking. They either liked what they heard or they didn't. *specifically a Peavey Bandit 65, two ART SGE Mach II, and a Rocktron Pro GAP (the black and red model).
    3 points
  8. Thousands of guitarists use digital delays/reverbs and have for many years. Nothing new. Here's an interesting video on the subject. Watch the whole thing. The demonstration of what the bit depth does is especially interesting:
    3 points
  9. When all else fails, read the instructions ;-)
    3 points
  10. Demo preset attached. Note that this is NOT the way I'd do it, as it does not optimize use of either the gear or the DSP, but you asked for minimum cabling so here ya go! The comp and eq are just there as placeholders, they're not essential. For the Helix amp I used the "Mandarin Rocker" simply for comparison purposes. FS3 switches from Helix amp to the Orange on Return R by bypassing one or the other. You'll need to use the cable from the OD pedal (not guitar to OD) when you switch amps. EDIT: set Return R to LINE in Global Settings>Ins/Outs Mikey.hlx
    2 points
  11. Update: It appears from a recent post on one of the FB pages that this is a hardware issue. "...I'm sorry friends, but the problem is confirmed hardware and here in Italy there are already those who have had the modification under warranty at the authorized Line6 service" I purchased my Pod Go from Yamaha Music London in June 2020 so it is still within its 2 yrs warranty. I've today written to them and as Yamaha own Line 6 I have requested an explanation as to why Line 6 has not openly come out to its customers on this, and have requested that my Pod Go be 'repaired/upgraded' by Line 6. I'll keep you all posted.
    2 points
  12. Re the video: Helix has a variable input impedance selector. Pod Go has a fixed impedance of 1M Ohm. If he had Helix set to 'Auto' I'd be interested in a comparison using the other impedance setting in Helix. For those less familiar, placing a buffered unit in front of Pod Go will deliver the same highs. A buffered unit might be eg any Boss stomp pedal - the pedal has to be powered but not stomped 'on' to benefit from the buffer. The other buffered device could be something like the Line 6 G10 Relay wireless system that is a buffered device. I use the G10 Relay, so do not have this issue, and is why similarly the Pod Go Wireless doesn't have this issue ie it's an issue ONLY when using cables. However, it is also very much down to the make, length & type of guitar cable you are using because different cables have different impedance, that can make a big difference to your tone. I tested my Pod Go with a good quality Vox coiled cable and my Piranha cables and the tonal difference with both as compared to via the G10T or placing my Boss CS3 pedal in front of Pod Go, was negligible and nothing like the variation in this video, which is quite extreme. Now, whilst there has been a lot of posts on forums/boards/youtube vids on this issue, you need to appreciate that putting a buffered unit in front of ANY MFX unit will brighten tone and not until you hear the difference do you think anything is 'wrong'. now, although Helix offers an impedance selector, a 1M Ohm input impedance is standard in mid-range MFX. Even the brand new Boss GX100 is 1M Ohm, whereas it's big brother the GT1000 is 2M Ohm. So this is not a 'fault' with Pod Go, but an additional option in Helix that is 3 x the price. I have a Vox Tonelab SE, LE and ST - and the same tone brightening occurs when using a buffered device in front of these. I also have a BBE Sonic Stomp Maximiser, and this makes tone sound brighter/clearer too. The same issue applies when using a guitar amp if you plug direct into an amp and then compare with a buffered device in front of it. So, whilst there is a tonal difference, it's because of the more sophisticated impedance options in Helix, rather than an issue with Pod Go Impedance. And here's a further thought. Many of the more expensive wireless devices allow you to change the settings to replicate guitar cable impedance. Why? Because a lot of players don't like the brighter tone, and want it to sound similar to their cabled sound. This whole thing has just got a bit out of proportion. But whilst it's possible Line 6 might be able to do something in v1.40 firmware, I suspect only a physical mod would 'solve' the issue for those seriously troubled by it - but you never know. However, having said all this I still would have hoped that Line 6 would have said something to at least confirm Pod Go impedance definitely is 1M Ohm. The fact they haven't even done so does potentially raise a big question mark and could give some credence to (reportedly) 'techs' who say they have tested Pod Go and found the input impedance to be only a third to a half of 1M Ohm. If that is proved to be the case then it might suggest Line 6 may have cut corners to save a few pennies. The problem is that if Line 6 refuses to comment, customers and potential customers are left to speculate, and that's not a good thing. So Line 6, if you are looking in - please confirm what the Pod Go input impedance is.
    2 points
  13. Hi, As noted by "silverhead" in the post above - check your settings and report to the Customer Support - they cannot fix it if they don't know.. Not sure what is happening for you - I went straight to it, (from the Downloads menu at the top of this page, then select Helix Native from under the "Choose Software" menu, then Windows 10 from under the "Choose OS" option then click "Go")and i downloaded the correct file without any issues. Try this: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lpx66fy5yszmzmr/Helix Native v3.15 Installer.exe?dl=0 Hope this helps/makes sense.
    2 points
  14. You can see the version that will be downloaded when you select it on the Downloads page. If that says v3.15 and it’s actually v1.00 that is being downloaded and installed, that’s a problem with the Line 6 website configuration. Open a support ticket to report it.
    2 points
  15. There’s actually two versions of it on the Helix - the HX version called “Bleat Chop Trem” and the Legacy version mentioned above.
    2 points
  16. This has been discussed many, many, many times on here and other forums. Resurrecting a post from 2017 isn’t going to make any difference- this horse is dead. Trust me - it’s your OCD. Huh? They did drop it in the Legacy > Modulation folder way back in Firmware version 2.50 released on February 7th 2018 - over 5 years ago! Once again your were replying to a comment in a dead thread from mid 2017. There is a much more recent thread on here, from May 2021, which states: Hope this helps/makes sense.
    2 points
  17. Hi, I can’t see the EXT/AMP idea being feasible as the Digitech Freqout isn’t designed to work with any type of external trigger. Also, If it was in your FX Loop you would still need to kick in the switch with your foot, as that FX block would need to be open for the signal flow to continue. Maybe easier to move it, or the HXFX, elsewhere on your board layout. Hope this helps/make sense. EDIT: I have just read the spec sheet and the “how it works” info for the Freqout provided by DIigiTech on their website. No external triggering (other than your foot) and also it is recommended that the device is placed first in the signal chain. https://www.digitech.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-masterCatalog_Harman/default/dw86d7d044/pdfs/DigiTech_FreqOut_Manual.pdf
    2 points
  18. So I took apart the thing and came to a conclusion that there's not enough lubrication. What was happening is that the screw.... was loose and there was too much friction because there was not enough grease, so that made it appear like the screw was tight because the pedal was hard to move, while since the screw was loose the alignment was off..... lol there. I put some lithium grease and reassembled the whole thing and now everything aligns well and the action is smooth. The whole damn thing is only 2 years old with minimal use.
    2 points
  19. I had to re-install PT First because I un-install it every time after I use it to help somebody make something work that works without effort in every other DAW that I own. That's Ableton, Cakewalk, Reaper and Studio One (which I hate ALMOST as much as Pro Tools). I HATE Pro Tools SO MUCH that I don't even want it on my computer! OK, now that I've got that off my chest. Sorry if you LOVE it, but... I could NOT get PT First to record Input 5 or 6. It SEES the inputs but won't accept audio from them. I had NO PROBLEM recording those inputs in any of the afore-mentioned DAWs. If you want to open a support ticket with L6, it's possible that it's a known problem with Pro Tools, or maybe just with PT First. Or maybe your ticket will be the first they've heard of it. Good Luck! In the meantime, if getting something done is important, load up one of the FREE DAWs that I mentioned in which re-amping with USB 5/6 (and most everything else that SHOULD be possible in PT First) works without a hitch. You can always export the DI track to PT First if you MUST use THAT DAW. BIG BONUS! ALL of those other FREE DAWS will allow you to use your 3rd Party plugins! Again, Good Luck!
    2 points
  20. The same reason you "need" that 312th pair of shoes and the 38th handbag to go with them, dear...
    2 points
  21. There's not a lot here to go on. You probably need to be a bit more verbose in describing what you're trying to do. For example, are you able to run HX Edit and connect your computer successfully? Start there because if you can do that you probably have no need for the updater as the prescribed approach is to update your Helix using HX Edit. If you can't connect with HX Edit then the problem lies in your computer and your USB connection. You need to make sure you're not using a USB hub but a direct USB connection on the computer. It would also be useful to know what type of Helix unit you're using as well as what computer and version of operating system you have. Surprisingly enough, most of us here are pretty good at diagnosing things. What we're not good at is reading your mind.
    2 points
  22. I have several guitars of varying output levels - different types and strengths of pickups. I currently compensate for this by creating my patches with my "hottest" guitar, and then using a boost pedal when using the other guitars to bring them up to level before going into PG. I just saw that the Boss GX-100 allows for 10 different saved input settings to account for different guitars. These settings can be applied per patch, or you can set one as "system" so it applies to all patches. So if you switch guitars during a set all you need to do is change which one is selected as the "system" default, and it gets applied to all patches. I really like this idea. Do you think this would be helpful?
    2 points
  23. Your thread is visible to me in the Helix forum. Don’t know why you wouldn’t be able to see it. Click on your avatar to bring you to your personal profile page. All your postings should be visible there.
    2 points
  24. No. Guitar players like guitars. Existential guitar truth #1 - there's no such thing as "too many guitars". No logical reason required to want another beyond "I want it! I have money!". Existential guitar truth #2 - there's no way a non-musician can fully comprehend this. UNLESS - Many women have extensive collections of shoes. Or handbags. Some of these cost as much as fine guitars! If your wife is one of these, or has a friend who has such a collection, that's your out!
    2 points
  25. Because nobody else EVER made a STOMP switch that failed...
    2 points
  26. There’s no right or wrong answer here. Experiment and go with whatever sounds best to you. The traditional setup would be to turn the cab sim off in your POD Go preset.
    2 points
  27. Hi, If you know the dimensions of the washer - overall diameter, hole diameter and thickness, plus the material (steel, nylon) then you should be able to pick up replacements from any hardware supplier. Fleabay and Amazon have bulk packs, so you never need run out. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    2 points
  28. I find the ongoing discussion more laughable as the years go on. I can't tell you how many times I've listened to a guitar player talk about how he won't use any digital crap, nothing but a trusty pedal board into a tube amp. When I look at their board it often has 2 or 3 Strymon's on it. I love breaking the news to them :) It certainly took mixing & mastering engineers many years to come to grip with the change. The transition was painful but (IMO) once people caught up to the technology I find I do prefer a "well produced/engineered" DDD recording. Yes... yes... yes! The technology is fine, it's the abuse of the technology that is to blame. Guitar players are not immune to this.... for some reason guitar players intuitively know that they can't turn every effect on their monster pedal board on at the same time, yet with a modeler many lose all control then often claim modelling doesn't sound good.
    2 points
  29. I would go for the full factory reset (9&10 on the Helix) and then a restore, given the issue you are experiencing. Make sure you have a backup first. You may even want to consider restoring the backup that was created when you first did the 3.15 firmware update, in the event that any corruption or unwanted changes have occurred in your presets since then.
    2 points
  30. You need to "initialize" the DSL to receive MIDI commands. Please see the instructions below. Since the DSL40CR clean is much quieter than the crunch, I have it assigned to a different Master volume. The channels are PC commands & the Masters & FX loop are CC values. Please see the patch below. The attached patch is for A HELIX RACK w/ foot controller. On the DSL each of the 4 channels clean, crunch, OD1, OD2 are assigned in a loop to every four MIDI program change messages and can’t be changed e.g. PC 00 = CLEAN PC 01 = CRUNCH PC 02 = OD1 PC 03 = OD2 PC 04 = CLEAN PC 05 = CRUNCH PC 06 = OD1 PC 07 = OD2 PC 08 = CLEAN etc. Connect the MIDI controller to the DSL – MIDI Out to MIDI In. Multiple equipment can be connected using MIDI thrus where available. Always ensure each piece of connected equipment is set to a different MIDI channel. 1. Set the receive MIDI channel on the DSL, this only needs to be done once.… Press and hold the Loop On/Off switch (Front Panel Function #23) while powering up the amplifier to activate MIDI waiting mode. The LED will flash until a valid MIDI command is received. Send a MIDI PC command on the required MIDI channel from the connected controller to the DSL The MIDI receive channel on the DSL will now be set. 2. If the user just wants to recall one variation of each channel, they can select each channel in turn from the front panel and set the state of the FX loop and Master (the switch settings are remembered per channel). They then only need to set their MIDI controller to send the appropriate program change message to recall that channel on the DSL. 3. If the user wishes to have multiple variations of each channel recalled e.g. Clean with FX Loop on and Master 1 and then clean with FX Loop Off and Master 2. They will need to set their controller to send a program change message to select the DSL’s channel and then MIDI CC messages to set the state of the FX Loop and Master. For example: Clean with FX Loop On and Master 1 – Send: PC=00 [DSL Clean Channel] CC=13 Value = 1 [DSL FX Loop On] CC=14 Value = 0 [DSL Master 1] Clean with FX Loop Off and Master 2 – Send: PC=00 [DSL Clean Channel] CC=13 Value = 0 [DSL FX Loop Off] CC=14 Value = 1 [DSL Master 2] dsl40cr control.hlx
    2 points
  31. As of the 3.10 update that came out back in Spring 2021, you can assign snapshots to footswitches in the Command Center using the HX Snapshot command. This way you can stay in Stomp Mode and access snapshots as necessary.
    2 points
  32. Not sure how much detail you require, but the general method would be to use the Helix Command Center to send the appropriate MID commands at the desired time (loading a Helix preset, or snapshot, or stomping on a footswitch). The Helix manual describes that. And the manual for your Marshal amp details the exact MIDI commands it needs to receive for switching modes. Start there and if you have specific questions come back and ask.
    2 points
  33. You're thinking about this the wrong way. Catalyst is NOT an "alternative to a high-end modeler and an FRFR". Catalyst is AITR vs FRFR. There is no "IR/modeling native to the Catalyst". Amp/FX modeling, yes. But while you COULD use the IRs in a modeler, they would not sound as intended because Catalyst is NOT FRFR. It's a GUITAR speaker in a GUITAR cabinet. The amp models in the Catalyst are voiced for the Catalyst speaker. You can use the amp models in a modeler with the Catalyst's power amp and speaker, and they sound VERY good but, again, you probably don't want to use the modeler's speaker modes or IRs, you want to use the raw amp models into the Catalyst for the AITR effect vs the mic'd cab effect you get with modelers/IRs/FRFR. I use my Catalyst 100 primarily with my Helix Floor. I also have an HXS. Yes, you can create Snapshots which use MIDI to control most every aspect of the Catalyst's configuration. The HXS allows 3 Snapshots per Preset, the HXSXL allows 4. The additional footswitches on the HXSXL provide more flexibility than the HXS. Beyond the additional Snapshot and footswitches the HXS and HXSXL are the same device. MIDI is fully functional on both. When you load a Preset or Snapshot you can instantly send up to a total of 6 MIDI messages divided among any of the 16 MIDI channels. Footswitches can be assigned to many functions, both on-board and for MIDI control of external devices like Catalyst. On my Helix Floor I have a single preset which, using Snapshots, calls all 6 Banks. I have Stomp Mode switches that call the A/B channels of whichever Bank is active. I have other Stomp Mode switches that control the Helix FX. Using additional presets I COULD have up to 1024 entirely different virtual pedal boards which perform the same Catalyst functions. I frequently use my Catalyst as the "Dry" component of a W/D/W stereo configuration with my Powercab 212. I also have presets for use with my HXS in a simpler configuration that uses the Stomp Mode footswitches to control the native Catalyst effects, switching channels with an external FS and changing Banks manually. An HXSL's extra footswitches would expand the capabilities of those presets. Catalyst can be used in many ways. 6 distinct two channel amps. 3 four channel amps. 12 distinct presets. OR any combination of the above. Essentially you have 6 "banks" of two presets (A/B) to use any way you like. Any of the 12 presets can be called via MIDI from the HXS/HXSXL. I could go on, but at this point I suggest that you DL the respective manuals for the Catalyst, HXS and HXSXL. Read them and come back with specific questions. SUMMARY: The combination of any Helix family device and the Catalyst 100/200 is fantastic. I have tried most every FRFR solution in the 6 years I've had my Helix, and the Catalyst sounds better than any of them. The only possible reason (IMO) for an FRFR/IR solution vs Catalyst would be if you play in a cover/tribute band and have VERY specific needs, or if AITR isn't important to you.
    2 points
  34. Since both devices have only a MIDI IN port, you would need something like this: MIDI Solutions Thru; Two Output MIDI Thru Box According to L6 Support, the HXS should provide the necessary power for the Merge: Hello rd2rk. Your Line 6 Support Ticket was updated with the following message: Hi Edwin, thanks for writing. According to engineering, we follow the MIDI standard on pin out, technically there is +5V on pin 4 of the MIDI out jack on Helix. It's through a 220 ohm resistor so not much power is available. If I had to hazard a guess, it will work but I don't know for certain if we've tested using a MIDI Solutions or similar device in such manner to make any recommendation. Josh Yamaha Guitar Group, Inc. Home of the Service Plus Extended Warranty - shop.line6.com According to MIDI Solutions this should be sufficient, but: Thank you for your inquiry. The MIDI Solutions products require only a small amount of current, so 5 V though a 220 ohm resistor is sufficient, however it's also important that the center pin 2 is grounded as indicated in the MIDI specification. If you have a multimeter you can measure the Helix's MIDI output voltage between center pin (ground) and the pin next to it in the counterclockwise direction, if you observe a voltage above 3 V it will successfully power the MIDI Solutions MultiVoltage Thru and Quadra Thru. If the Helix does not provide power there is a workaround which is to first connect its MIDI Out to the MIDI In of some other MIDI device, then MIDI Thru from that device to the MIDI In of the Quadra Thru, and then from the Quadra Thru's MIDI Thru outputs to your remaining devices. If none of your other devices have MIDI Thru ports then the MIDI Solutions Power Adapter can also resolve the problem, for more information on the Power Adapter see www.midisolutions.com/prodpwr.htm. Best regards, John Fast, MIDI Solutions Inc. www.midisolutions.com
    2 points
  35. I'm pretty sure the folks that are still hung up on analog versus digital in this day and age are only hung up on it so they can have something to argue about. Consider this fine example: You send your analog signal from the standard guitar output to the Helix where it's immediately converted to a digital signal. It's converted back to analog to be sent out of the XLR outputs to a digital mixer where it's immediately converted back to digital and processed through the mixing process. It's then converted back to analog so it can be transmitted via an XLR signal out to a modern speaker cabinet such as a QSC K12.2 where it's immediately converted back to digital so it can be adjusted by the DSP processors and digital amplifiers in the speaker cabinet based on the configuration you set into the speaker's parameters and then eventually converted back to analog when it's sent to the speakers in the cabinet. If that performance gets recorded on someone's phone...guess what? Yet another cycle through the digital to analog conversion washing machine. And yet some people would still argue they can tell the difference between an analog and digital signal in a double blind test. Maybe it's true if they are half human and half bat.....
    2 points
  36. I was having some issues with strange snapshot parameters behaviour a few weeks ago. A factory reset solved it. Make sure you back up appropriately first.
    2 points
  37. If you DL the manual and look at the picture of the back panel, item#16 is labeled EXP PEDAL 2/EXT AMP.
    2 points
  38. For the record – since I only just noticed – but it's there since v3.10, i.e. since April 2021:
    2 points
  39. How Fast is the Average Blink? The Human Eyeblink can last up to... (somatechnology.com) 500ms is only a bit longer than it takes to blink. In most applications, most of us wouldn't notice. But I can see where it would be a real problem in your application. It would be great if you were to document this and bring it to the attention of someone in support, from where it might eventually make it to the engineering level!
    2 points
  40. Bravo! Everybody here knows that you work hard at this. You certainly ask enough questions! Rock On!
    2 points
  41. Directly.... no! Indirectly, Yes! Get your amp set up the way you want it and save it as a "FAVORITE" Now replace the amp blocks in the other presets with that "FAVORITE"... it will insert the amp along with the settings you saved. Keep in mind if you alter your amp settings they don't carry over to the other presets, you will need to do the whole process again. It's not a 100% solution, but it certainly serves as a good starting point for me.
    2 points
  42. Hi, I have just posted a reply to your question regarding USB on Helix hardware. In that previous thread, you said that you were considering upgrading from a POD HD500. I’m a little confused by your request for a firmware update to a product that you don’t own? As noted by “rd2rk” in the post above - these forums are not monitored by Line 6 staff, therefore your suggestion will have little or no chance of been acted on. Post you request to IdeaScale. Also, you mention the position, and clunkiness of the footswitches, but say that you realise the Helix is better. Hmm… that is some thing that only you can determine by actually trying them for yourself. One man’s “unergonomic/loud (in really intimate settings), wrong position and just plain clunky”, could well be perfectly normal to someone else. Note: most Helix users that are looper fans tend to use their own favourite dedicated external looper patched into the Send and Return of the Helix. I have 3 different Loopers (Ditto x4, Boss RC30, and a cheapo Ammoon Stereo) each for their different capabilities, and quirks such a loop length, backing track etc. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    2 points
  43. Wrong forum. Nobody from Line6 Monitors this forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multiple combined suggestions.
    2 points
  44. No, I would highly doubt that is built into the Super 60.... but it may be the correct path, keep reading. When the Stomp is in another amp... what is the volume difference between "bypassed mode" and "engaging the DSP's?" If the DSP signal is quite a bit hotter it is possible the first pre-amp tube in the amp (and/or something early in the circuit) is failing and cannot take the signal level. Have you tried turning down the processed signal to see if the amp "kicks in"? I had it happen one time, but not with a Helix device. When I ran a standard pedal board I always had a boost at the end of the chain. On one show I was using a backline amp on a gig (IIRC it was a Fender Hot Rod... Deville or Deluxe) and any time I engaged the boost the amp would stop. I thought the boost pedal failed so I stopped trying to use it on that gig. Turns out the pedal was fine... and never caused any grief on any other amp.
    2 points
  45. I have both. I enjoy the Sennheiser more! Consider Drop's HD6xx version of the Sennheiser. They are a serious contender amongst the Sennheiser's at a very competitive price point to the BD, and Drop readily accepts returns if you are unsatisfied. I find the Sennheiser's headband clamping force more comfortable than the BD; also better fitting, and more comfortable for extended wearing. I also find them more accurate and less position sensitive. With the BD 770 Pro 250 Ohm I find that if they shift (or I position them a slight bit forward or aft) the high end perceptively changes. This is not an issue with the Sennheiser. If you will not be recording vocals, the closed back factor may not be essential. Also, the closed back style can cause the airspace around your ear to warm during longer wearing sessions or warm summer weather, whereas the open back do not do so as much. Ultimately, the only thing that matters is your personal preference! And, the only way to get your answer is to try each to discover which suits your needs and satisfies your preferences.
    2 points
  46. I think at this level it really comes down to personal preferences. I can only speak to DT770's as I've owned 2 different pairs of them. I did compare them at one time to the HD600, and I thought they were both excellent headphones, but I went with the DT770's mostly due to comfort. When I use headphones I normally wear them a long time...like all day and the DT770's feel like pillows on my head and I've actually forgotten I was wearing them from time to time. You may be better off just going to trying both of them out and see what you think. I've heard other people remark they don't like the isolation of closed back headphones and you may be one of those kind of people. Anyway...sorry to hear about your band. We just had a minor shakeup in ours as well...or will have come May 1st. You get used to it after a while....
    2 points
  47. The UP/DOWN switches can be set to Bank, Preset or Snapshot. When pressed, they INCREMENT or DECREMENT whatever they're set to by 1. So yes, it doesn't matter what's DISPLAYED, whatever you're on goes up or down by one. What is "Snapshot Stacking"? Are you referring to the Snapshot Prev/Next function in CommandCenter?
    2 points
  48. Thanks. Someone just brought it up on another forum and I wanted to be sure before I commit.
    2 points
  49. Remember that you can reduce latency by moving closer to your amp. Every foot shaves off a millisecond. I've thought maybe that's why guitarists are more tolerant of latency than drummers. We're always several feet away from an amp anyway, so we're used to it. Drums are right in the drummer's face.
    2 points
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