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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    No wireless stuff (inluding BT) built into professional gear. <- Full stop.
  2. 4 points
    Ocassional mistakes aren't dumb. Not admitting them is. I wouldn't be so hard on yourself. There are so many parameters and options with setups these days, mistakes are just going to happen.
  3. 4 points
    It is remarkable how flexible this gear is. I'm 4 years in and there's not a month that goes by that I don't discover new approaches and ideas for improving my sound, and I have NO interest at all in any new equipment. I've got everything I need and I use everything I've got....for the first time in my life!!!
  4. 4 points
    JBL LSR305's or 308's depending on how much room you've got. Helix is a fully functional audio interface... no real need for anything else.
  5. 3 points
    The Yamaha DXR10 mkII is a great, great sounding unit with the Helix. I wanted the sound projected upwards while standing up to preserve the wide horisontal coverage so I designed and made a 3D printed tilt stand that fits into the speaker stand holes. It's a nice and small thing that fits in the junk-bag to avoid lugging a big and ugly speaker stand. You can download the STL file for 3D printing here: Thingiverse JimR Tilt Stand Edit: I should have said this right away: I am not offering to manufacture these, it takes 9 hours to print and is not really worth my time for the small amount of money people want to pay for 3D printed parts. JimR
  6. 3 points
    What matters is what it sounds like to you. There's no right or wrong. Given your skepticism about opinions you're reading I think the best way for you to decide is to buy the HX Stomp, test things out for yourself, and return it if you don't like it. What you'll get in response here will likely fall into two camps: It's not OK to run through a standard amp (the majority), and it is OK to do so (a minority). From what you've said you're going to disagree with the former and agree with the latter - but you won't have any personal experience to base your decision on. So get your experience.
  7. 3 points
    And when just the wireless part craps out, now the brains of my rig has to get hospitalized along with it till it's fixed? No thanks. Want a wireless? Buy one... having absolutely everything in one self-contained unit is never a good idea.
  8. 3 points
    Please no.... Good wireless units are not cheap... this would raise the cost substantially. Building in a bare bones cheap receiver would be a mockery to the Helix. Users would still need to buy compatible transmitter(s)... Users that don't use wireless would pay (steeply) for something they don't use Users that do use wireless would be forced into using this one.... or they could still use their own and #3 would apply to them as well.
  9. 3 points
    Good advice above. I recommend you look at the discussions and youtube videos about setting the level for your Helix output xlr or 1/4. I have my XLR output set to max by not being effected by the big output knob. I allow the big knob to adjust my 1/4 for backline adjustment. Also read up on gain staging so that you don't end up with digital clipping. Essentially, you don't want to push the input of your amp models too high. It can sound muddy, harsh, or clip weirdly.
  10. 3 points
    I am one of those who purposely doesn't do any kind of social media. I don't even visit TGP anymore. So it would be nice if they updated the firmware sticky I subscribed to so as to get proper notifications. Alternatively, I suppose I could just wait another ~3 months to receive a direct email from Line 6 telling me 2.8.2 has just been released. I appreciate all the hard work that goes into these free updates but for the love of god, I wished someone at Line 6 would either, update the firmware sticky thread regularly -or- just delete it.
  11. 3 points
    Agreed! Some of the guitar cabs are far better than many bass cabs... for bass use! One important trick for me is to avoid the use of certain mics (57 Dyn cuts lows!). In my experience, a close (1'') 414 Cond or 121 Ribbon give me the best results. If some cab is too dark, then the 47 Cond helps (this is what comes with the SVT by default). Then the 4038 Ribbon boosts lows too much, it is useful sometimes, but I am not sure if there is the need to boost lows when there are so many cabs that work well. Avoiding medium distance "57 Dyn" is what makes MANY guitar cabs usable for me. My favorites bass cabs (Forgive comments in "Spanglish"): Also "No cab" works really well for me. With some EQ to tame and "voice" high frequencies, but totally transparent with lows. It avoids phasing issues. We bass players have enough with our "FRFR" cabs, they are not that "transparent" in the lows, so there is no need to make the problem twice as bad. I have certain theory why some "good" or "professional" or "thoroughly recorded" cab models are not so great with the Helix or any other modeller. Their responses are anything but "tight". 1x18 Woody Blue may sound good with headphones, but I doubt it is good with the full band and using any practical real cab in stage with the full band at high volume. To me it sounds really BAD. I can understand why some bass multi effect users are enthusiastic with their presets tuned with headphones without a band and then in the first rehearsal the band tell them "This is for guitars, your old bass amp sounded way better". ================== About the blend: Some overdrives / distortion have. And this is great because this avoids certain subtle problems that appear when using parallel paths. The problem with parallels paths (besides being very limited in number) has to do with phasing issues, they are different for each amplifier or overdrive. These issues are far worse in bass than in guitar. I know that this topic can be very controversial. Some ODs don't have a blend control, but they work at low / moderate gains "as if" they had a clean parallel path. If you play bass I recommend to try Teemah! for this reason. Teemah! and Obsidian 7000 are my favorite dirts. I have a preset that is simply Teemah! plus an EQ (instead of cab) plus effects, this is one of my favorites with the band. Because it is "rich enough" but "TIGHT". And I need my bass to sound very tight in many songs / band situations. Next in my "OD" list are 3 bass amps (SV Beast and Tuck'n'Go) and then Clawthorn Drive. There are many usable blocks to create OD / Distortion, some are bass amps, some are guitar amps. IME many of them are totally unusable for bass. But there are some surprises, for example the LEGACY heavy distortion (this one requires a parallel path). Or the Tube Screamer emulation is too "treebly", but does not CUT bass, so it admits EQ to restore bass... and does not require a parallel path! (it works better in a band context this way). I really would like to add a blend control in overdrives and distortions. Now I know it is not trivial to add if done properly. Hope it helps.
  12. 2 points
    I do this All. Day. Long. To be fair, my amp, a Fender Hot Rod Deville, is a pretty bland amp on its own, but it has a good amount of clean headroom, so your results will vary most definitely if you are sending the full amp model into, another amp like say, a Marshall. Even on a "clean" setting, Marshalls tend to overdrive easier than other amps, and are so focused on certain frequencies, that they will probably exhibit a ton of coloration. As others said, though, you have literally nothing to lose by trying it. Even using cab models aren't necessarily a no-no, as they can be used as filters to get specific frequency shapes. What amp are you thinking of plugging this into? If you like what you hear, and you have the money, you might even want to try a full Helix. IMO, it goes very far towards completely replacing a pedalboard. The King of Tone model alone feels like it can do the job of a fair number of overdrive/boost/distortion models. And that's just 1 of many pieces of gear this can emulate, chained together.
  13. 2 points
    I didn't catch the contradiction when I first watched the video... that's why I thought I would point it out. Overall that video is great... that's why I watched it a few times. Tim's a great player with an open mind when it comes to gear... it's nice to hear his thoughts on these types of things.
  14. 2 points
    FINALLY! THE MOST IMPORTANT THIS vs THAT VIDEO EVER MADE! Three absolutely, undeniably and indisputably factual and objective takeaways which once and for all put an end to all debate on the subject! FIRST: There IS a tube amp made by Fender called Princeton! There IS a modeling amp made by Line6 called Spider V! There IS a modeler made by Line6 called Helix! There IS a profiler made by Kemper called Kemper Profiler! SECOND: The guys who made this video are TOTALLY CLUELESS! Despite having been presented with objective proof of that, they went on to voice further meaningless opinions, as though anyone should care. THIRD: Someone, somewhere, likes at least ONE of the sounds that each of these devices makes. WOW! EARTHSHAKING! How did guitar players ever survive before YouTube?
  15. 2 points
    Have you checked your global settings? The level settings for the outputs may have changed (line/instrument)
  16. 2 points
    1 year here! Been using line 6 since ever... This was a complete game changer.. I am using her ALL the time! None of my amps sound completely good without her in 4CM.. If have to choose between my amps and my Helix... goodbye amps... I can do sooooo many things with... it’s insane! I bet the Helix 2 will serve coffee and clean the kitchen.
  17. 2 points
    Oh I dunno......, almost said it lol.... ; )
  18. 2 points
    If you used an amp and pedals, how would you dial in your tones? Likely by turning up the amp close to stage volume and adjusting everything until it sounds best. It is no different with a Helix. When possible, plug into the same or similar setup you would use live (I know with PA's this becomes impractical) and setup your tones at "gig volume" or as close as possible to it. FWIW... this is my method. I have a home studio, with two sets of speakers (I A/B the speakers, I never play them both at the same time) Studio grade 6.5" near field monitors Consumer grade 3 ways speakers with a 10" woofer, mid and tweeter I monitor my Helix at about 85db... this takes the Fletcher Munson curve out of play which is critical to setting up tones. re: Fletcher Munson! If you monitor too quietly you are likely to increase the highs and lows to make it sound artificially louder... this often results in a "boomy, tinny & thin" tone that disappears on a stage with the rest of the band I dial up my tones to sounds really good on each set of speakers I put on some music that I can play along with, in the style the tone was setup for - this allows me to hear the tone "in context"... Tweak tone a little as needed. If I need to drastically alter the tone, I return to step 3 to make sure it still sounds good on it's own, through each set of speakers. The tone I end up with goes direct to console. I always tell techs to start with a FLAT strip and adjust as they desire... the majority of techs never touch the EQ after setting it flat.. it's been that reliable.
  19. 2 points
    It's not L6's fault... The Illuminati made them do it.
  20. 2 points
    https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Drop-Tuning-Capability-for-Tuner-on-Helix/965088-23508
  21. 2 points
    I have a pair of Yamaha DSR112's under my desk but that might be overkill ;-)
  22. 2 points
    I submitted a trouble ticket in order to find this hidden "Spider Remote Pilot's Guide." In the Overview section of the Spider V Family Pilot's Guide it states one is "available for download at https://line6.com/manuals. Well, there are only manuals for hardware, not apps. I am figuring it out as I use the app, trial and error, but I'm wasting a lot of time and still have many questions. By reading all the posts it appears I am not alone. I don't think this manual exists. Creating user manuals isn't that difficult. I've done many. it's a matter of making outline of the various functions, describing what you want the reader to understand for each function, capturing screen shots/snippets from various devices, pasting them into the document, drawing arrows, circles or boxes to call attention to a specific information, and then writing the procedures to follow for each function.
  23. 2 points
    Hello Beamboom, In the Filters section, just find one that allows you to modify the "sensitivity" parameter (= envelope ) and set it to 0. Then, control the cut frequency with an exp. pedal or MIDI. (And also , set the the filter mode to "low pass) -> I believe the Autofilter will do the trick.
  24. 2 points
    Well, you're covering a lot of different things here, but I'll see if I can give you some perspective. First, as far as balancing your volume levels. This is most commonly due to the fact that the amp models are simulations of the actual behavior of the amp circuits. Therefore the levels will be different on each of them just like the real amps would be. You can do this by ear just comparing them to each other. I personally use a small mixing board so that I can compare the signal levels not just as an aid to matching volume levels, but also to better ensure the signal I send to the FOH remains consistent across all my various presets and snapshots. Another approach is when you add a block to the signal chain you check the signal chain with the block turned on and off to make sure you're not building up additional volume over the base volume level of the signal chain with no blocks added to it. In all cases once you get all the volumes matched up you use the Helix master volume knob to control your output. In my case I disengage the Helix volume knob from the XLR output which then sends a signal to the FOH the same as if the volume knob were turned to full max. Then I just use my Helix volume knob to control the 1/4" output going to my FRFR speaker. As far as the distortion you heard at your friend's house that would most likely be do to overdriving the gain level of the speaker. The generally accepted way of setting up a powered speaker is to set it's gain knob at unity or 12 o'clock. That means that the amplifiers in the speaker will operate at their normal maximum volume level without anything being added or subtracted from the incoming signal. If you get too much gain going into the FRFR powered speaker either from the signal being too high on the Helix or too much gain on the speaker itself the signal will clip on cheaper powered speakers and on more sophisticated powered speakers it will kick on an internal limiter to protect the speaker. I personally haven't used Rockit speakers but there are a number of people that dial in their tones on studio speakers. It's not optimal but it can work if you have enough volume to rise above most of the limitations of the Fletcher Munson effect. Generally that's going to be around 80 to 90 db or the equivalent of standing on the side of the highway with traffic passing, so not really all that high. What is a limitation with using studio monitors is that they are designed in such a way that the speakers need to be positioned optimally and you need to be positioned between them optimally in order to get the most accurate representation of the tone. Powered live speakers are much more flexible in that they have tonal consistency across a wide area if they're in an upright position (not floor monitor) but can sound harsh if you're positioned too closely to them due to your close proximity to the horn. I personally don't have to "fake out" anything with my setup at home. I have a small mixing board which I route my signal through so I can visually see my signal level and I'm attached to a Yamaha DXR12 in a vertical upright position at roughly chest height. With that setup I get a very accurate representation of my tone and have a consistent signal level going to the FOH so that it only has to be gain staged once on any of my presets.
  25. 2 points
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