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  1. I think you mean Line 6 Central, not Update. Central is its replacement.
    2 points
  2. @jesuscares AI isn't all there yet. Still has about a 25% hallucination factor. I am very happy I can get help from the real people on this forum. Have fun with the Stadium. jpd
    2 points
  3. Solved! The issue "Helix Stadium Bulk Tramsfer" is fixed finally with version 1.3.2. No crashes om connecting the app or Line 6 Central via usb, no "Unknown Device" in device manager. Line 6 Central got stuck trying to update. But probably I wasn't patient enough. L6C did not give any feedback. Firmware update with the Stadium Application worked fine. Actually the firmware update 1.3.2 did not work with self update yet.
    2 points
  4. Greetings Airguitargb, From where I am sitting, 58 is the good old days. I am over 70 now. I just received my Helix Floor three days ago. Yes, it is daunting to look at the manual, and all the options that there are. But, I am enjoying it so far. I am determined to get the hang of this. I have had an HD500x since 2020, and it was simpler, and harder to use at the same time. Don't give up! I won't be.
    2 points
  5. I’m not sure it’s relevant in your case but be aware that Stadium implements a different approach to presets and setlists. The USER preset area contains the only actual instance of a preset; a setlist contains ‘aliases’ to the presets, not a copy of the presets. The Setlist section of the manual is worth a read in the context of what you’re doing.
    2 points
  6. It sounds like you're comparing apples and oranges. No FRFR (and I mean none) will sound the same as your amp through a guitar speaker direct to your ears. When modelling there is always a microphone between the amp/speaker and the reproduction system (then your ears). So, unless you're mic'ing your amp into the B1s you, and the audience, are hearing a raw guitar amp/speaker sound. To acheive a similar sound with a modeller you would use an amp model, into a power amp, into the speaker cab - no speaker model. If you mic your amp/speaker and run it through the B1s as well as stage, you need to work out how that sound compliments the stage cab sound in the room and aim for that through the B1s, or the compromise that emulates that mix. The latter will be very tricky. You might need to change your mindset about what you want/need to hear and accept the inherent compromise of ALL modelling. As to the volume jumps between amp models - that's why the Helix/Stadium chain has a heap of post production tools like compressors and gain blocks to normalise the levels, and EQ to assist with getting common perceived volume. The analogy of modellors being amps and effects in a box is fundementally flawed, they are a studio in a box with guitar amps and effects and need to be treated like that.
    2 points
  7. It doesn't matter what you think you see in the preset. The only thing that matters is what is actually being sent. Here's a simple FREE monitor: MIDIView - Free MIDI Monitor tool for Win & Mac Here's an online monitor: Disaster Area Designs MIDI Monitor
    2 points
  8. I haven’t done this myself but the manual says you can. See Global Settings -> Switches/Pedals, particularly the Control A/B settings. You will need a TRS cable with a Y-splitter to control up to two external pedals/footswitches. Also, probably good to read the manual section on Configuring External Controllers.
    2 points
  9. https://rigclone.com/ https://thegearforum.com/threads/fractal-and-helix-stadium-presets.10392/
    2 points
  10. Overdrive pedal are typically placed very early in the signal chain. If it’s not problematic try placing the overdrive pedal before the Helix, between your guitar and Helix, and removing FX Loop 1.
    2 points
  11. From the POD Go Wireless FAQ: (see top of this page Support -> KB and FAQs -> POD Go) Q: How do I use multiple POD Go Wireless systems? A: Up to four POD Go Wireless and/or standalone Line 6 Relay wireless systems can be used on the same stage. However, care should be taken to ensure all systems are set up properly: 1. For the first system, connect the G10T transmitter to the POD Go Wireless GUITAR IN jack and wait 10 to 15 seconds. Make sure the transmitter’s LED lights green. 2. Connect the transmitter to your guitar’s output. 3. Before the first transmitter goes to sleep (after 4 minutes of no audio input), repeat the above steps 1 and 2 for any additional POD Go Wireless systems. Each system’s scanning procedure works around other active wireless channels to help ensure high quality performance for all systems.
    2 points
  12. https://line6.com/data/6/0a00050b27666643b2a0cc748/application/pdf/HX Effects Cheat Sheet - English .pdf
    2 points
  13. Sharing this because I went crazy trying to figure it out, and maybe it’ll save someone else some time. A few days ago, I tried logging into Line 6 Helix Stadium, but the QR code never appeared. The manual login didn’t work either. To make things worse, the HX Stadium App kept crashing, and I couldn’t update it from my computer or through Line 6 Central. Ironically, those were the two options the manufacturer recommended when I contacted support. Since I work in tech, something didn’t add up. Everything pointed to the app not connecting to the server, which explained why the QR wouldn’t generate. Then I thought: “What if it’s the time zone?” I tried something simple: Disabled automatic time synchronization Set the time manually And… BOOM! The QR popped up instantly, and I was able to log in without any issues. Hope this helps someone out there.
    2 points
  14. There is. In fact there are three that can be set individually for each physical Output. Again, the manual is your friend. Read the Matrix mixer section.
    1 point
  15. We definitely could make use of a plugin to use Proxy clones in a DAW, like the ToneX plugin.
    1 point
  16. Same here. I had problems logging in and updating and read about it being the wrong timezone(?) or doing via usb(?) I honestly cant remember what I did but fumbled around a few things doing a bit of everything, got it working, and its been absolutely fine ever since. Infuriating for a new product I have to agree but I assume it will eventually be shipped out with a later firmware and the issue wont exist any more
    1 point
  17. No, the Stadium app is an editor/librarian program. It’s not a plug-in. There is no plugin (yet?) for the Stadium/Agoura amp DSP algorithms or clones. I wouldn’t rule it out,but not now. Similary, HX Edit is not a plug-in.
    1 point
  18. Line 6 Central is not necessay because the Helix App does the firmware update fine with usb. Interstingly my Line 6 Unit was on 1.3.1 abd said it was up to date. - I guess it was not stored on the dedicated web space then. Anyway. You are right. It was at least a bad communication attitude by Line 6 letting me been not informed for months. RL
    1 point
  19. ReverendLove, I am glad you have the issue solved as far as the drivers. Communication during the process or at least a message saying they are aware and will work on it in future updates would have been nice for your peace of mind. I don't use Line 6 Central nor have installed on my systems. Hopefully the self update will work as expected for you at some future time. jpd
    1 point
  20. jesuscares, If I am understanding your question, you should see the "ASIO Stadium" as a selection from the ASIO dropdown. As you probably already know, you will use Logic's external midi tracks to send the commands for preset/snapshot control. For connectivity use the USB-C on your mac to the USB-C on the Stadium. I am not a Mac expert so the way the drivers get installed from the Line 6 Stadium App is beyond me. You might want to open a ticket with Line 6 if you are truly having a Stadium ASIO driver issue. Compatible OS: Mac OS X, macOS Big Sur, macOS Catalina, macOS Monterey, macOS Sequoia, macOS Sonoma, macOS Tahoe, macOS Ventura And what I did is completely uninstall and & all OG Helix software with the exception of Helix Native. I found having a clean system works best for me. jpd
    1 point
  21. I just ordered my Stadium floor unit so I have not tried it yet but no one has talked about the mic. A single 57 is really thin sounding to my ears. I'd use a combo or in my case I will just use my Sennheiser 906
    1 point
  22. I have moved this post to the Promote Your Patches area where your other similar posts are.
    1 point
  23. Hi, I saw your previous post from earlier this year- Much as I can admire your dedication to creating an app, specifically for creating Helix presets, I have to ask - why? The reason HX Edit was never modified to run on mobile devices, was simply because the hardware needs to be physically connected over USB to audition the tones being created. If you can’t hear it, what’s the point? If this is aimed at people on the move, then they could simply note down possible preset ideas in any text app, or even use a pencil and paper. It seems like a lot of work for something that essentially appears unnecessary, as it still requires the use of HX Edit. Good luck. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  24. I plugged in the FV500L. Setting the Maximum Volume to Max did correct the range problem as you said. I obviously didn't persevere very much when I tried it! I was able to correct the polarity via Settings > Global Settings > Switches/Pedals > swipe left twice to Flip A (tip) Polarity > set to On. This worked OK with the TS cable plugged into A/B. Note that the setting you need is the Flip A (tip) polarity, NOT the Flip EXP 1/2 Polarity. That applies to the built-in pedal, and will reverse its polarity as you describe. The EV30 has a polarity switch, so I had previously used that instead of delving into Stadium settings. Leaving the polarity flip set to On for the FV500L in the Stadium settings, I was able to switch the EV30 polarity switch back to Normal, so that both pedals now work.
    1 point
  25. Stadium can import individual IR wav files, but not the set of IRs contained in a Helix Bundle or Backup file. Here’s a potential workaround for IRs: 1) In Helix Edit go to the IR area. Select all IRs and export them all in a single operation to a specific folder on your computer. 2) In the Stadium app go to the empty IR library window. 3) In the IR computer folder Select All wav files. 4) Drag/Drop the set of all selected individual wav files into the Stadium IR library in a single operation.
    1 point
  26. I don't think the question is how is it possible, but is it possible? The answer (AFAIK) is no. That would require something like a sidechain triggered by a gate, which the Helix does not have. All time based/mod effects in the Helix run off their own clock and are not 'triggered' by an input. Your sound bite is very cool, but also sounds very DAW/Studio based and outside of what the Helix can do. It'd be cool to define (for example) the point on the curve a flanger starts when triggered by a sound, but no.
    1 point
  27. Hiya! I go to the CustomTone page (logged in, of course), and every time I try to get a tone, I get sent to an error page. Here's the URL: https://line6.com/customtone/tone/deliver/1722727/ I've also attached an image of the error page. Is anyone else having this issue? I've already cleared my browser's cache, and I have closed/reopened the browser. I have also restarted my computer. Same issue persists. Whaddya think? Thanks, Schvoontz
    1 point
  28. Any questions on bundle-and-save should be directed towards Flo.
    1 point
  29. Read the manual. It’s all there. for the record, I did it and everything still works.
    1 point
  30. Short Story: You’re experiencing a frustrating issue with it. Line 6 is acknowledging that the issue is serious enough to have them offering to replace it. Accept! There’s a real chance here that your device is faulty. Who knows what day of the week it came off the production line somewhere? It could be a lemon with more issues. It happens. Why invite another mess?
    1 point
  31. Got it from general knowledge of many years as a computer programmer. (Search USB host/Usb client) If you don't want a computer in the mix to provide host, you need another device that can provide host like a Morningstar MC4/6/8 midi controller, or others. "USB-C PORTS: DEVICE AND HOST The Host port is a built-in MIDI USB host. With this, MC6 Pro can directly control other USB devices such as the Source Audio C4 Synth, Line 6 Pod Go and Zoom Multistomps. No need for a separate MIDI USB host that is both costly and cumbersome"
    1 point
  32. ISSUE SOLVed! I ended up opening a ticket for this issue. The workaround I was given was this: I did the factory reset, then re-uploaded a track (without reinstalling the backup). The audio from the track survived the on/off cycle. But, after reinstalling the backup, the track audio died after the first on/off cycle. I went with the second option they suggested - unmount the SD card (back it up on a computer if necessary), then reinstall it in the Stadium and do an SD format, then try again. I did that and this time it works - the audio keeps running after the on/off cycle (I did not put back the folders saved from the card, I just left it freshly formated by the unit). So far, so good!
    1 point
  33. Thank you jpd. I don't know how I ever missed that. And thank you for not treating me like an idiot! I've been around an awful long time, most of it very technically savvy - and it scares me how at this age obvious things can get right past me. Thanks again- Best J
    1 point
  34. Native doesn't respond to FS based messages. You need to use MIDI CC directly set to the parameters you want to control. Since I don't use Native like this, I tested using Native preset 000 (US Double Nrm) by setting the Amp Drive parameter to CC#102 (what the MIDI controller I have connected to Native on my office PC - HXS - happens to be using in the PLUGINS preset) with a MIN value 0f 3.5 (default) and a MAX value of 6. I set the Feedback parameter of the Tape Delay to the same CC# and MIN value 20% (default) and MAX value to 65%. Works perfectly - lead tone with extra repeats. There's no reason your FCB won't work the same way.
    1 point
  35. You can reassign the up and down buttons to Presets or Banks. When in stomp mode, they become stomps. Do this in Global Settings > Pedals and Switches. You might be able to do more in Command Center, which offers the most flexibility. Search YouTube for Steve Serlacci, Command Center.
    1 point
  36. I have the same issue - and already reported to Line6/Yamaha
    1 point
  37. Then sell it and try something that is easier. I know some people who are computer programmers cannot wrap their heads around this tech. Or go back to pedal boards.
    1 point
  38. I am seeing Helix Stadium responding to MIDI PC and CC from a computer (Mac) over USB-C. In Global Settings > MIDI be sure to have encoders 5 (Receive MIDI PC) and 6 (Send PC w/ Preset) set to "MIDI + USB.
    1 point
  39. Startup the Stadium while holding down the Home and Song buttons. This will cause the device to boot up in the Maintenance screen. Reset is one of the available options. Perform a Backup first (another option).
    1 point
  40. I am one of many people who bought a brand new 2025 Helix Floor model and am wondering when there is an update to 3.80 available? There are many users of the Floor and these are STILL available at major retailers new. Certainly the best of the Floor series is worthy of an update to remind loyal Helix users that their expensive investment on these units is worth it (as evidenced by support from Line 6).
    1 point
  41. If the 2024 3.80 is the last update for the Floor, then this is a rather unceremonial end in 2026 for what is otherwise a great all-in-one FX unit. They are STILL available for sale in 2026 with the latest firmware branded 2024. Line 6: please give us a nice update for the Helix Floor!! There are more of us Floor users than Stadium and those Floor sales gave the Stadium the momentum it has. :-)
    1 point
  42. For anyone hitting this post searching for how to run Helix Stadium on Linux, I've figured out one way to do it - but it only works if you have Wifi setup on the Stadium Install Steam Download the Helix Stadium installer In Steam go to Library > Add a Game > Add Non-Steam Game and select the downloaded installer exe Find the entry in your Steam Library and click Play, the installer should show up. Go through the install steps choosing the defaults Once that's done you'll need to find the directory that Steam puts file under. For me it was ~/.steam Under that directory you need to find where it installed Helix Stadium. For me it was ~/.steam/steam/steamapps/compatdata/{the most recently created folder}/pfx/drive_c/Program Files (x86)/Line6/Helix Stadium/Helix Stadium.exe. Copy the full path to the EXE In Steam right click on the entry for the installer and choose Properties... Rename it to Helix Stadium Change target to "{path to the exe above}". For me it was "~/.steam/steam/steamapps/compatdata/{the most recently created folder}/pfx/drive_c/Program Files (x86)/Line6/Helix Stadium/Helix Stadium.exe" Change Start In to "{path to the exe above but without the exe filename at the end}". For me it was "~/.steam/steam/steamapps/compatdata/{the most recently created folder}/pfx/drive_c/Program Files (x86)/Line6/Helix Stadium/" Close the Properties window Click Play and Helix Stadium app should start I had to cancel the auto connect, and manually type in the IP address, then click Connect (this needs to be done at the start every time) Once I did that it works as expected! Hope that helps somebody.
    1 point
  43. I'm not going to re-type my explanation/refutation of your nonsense assertions. If anybody believes this guy, tag me and I'll link to the LENGTHY discussion that he hopes nobody is skilled enough at SEARCH to find for themselves. The short version - there's a SWITCH. In one position it IS attenuated. In the other position it is NOT attenuated. It's an OPTION. The long version explains the reasoning.
    1 point
  44. Hi all, I recently posted this on a couple of Pod Go Facebook groups, so thought it might be useful for folks here too: NEW YEAR TIP: POD GO BACKUPS, SETS for GIGS, FRFR, AMP, HEADPHONE Hi guys & gals, and a very Happy New Year to everyone. Although I’d kind of assumed that this was pretty much common knowledge I’ve since picked up that it’s not, so the following might be useful especially for those who’ve used up all their Pod Go slots, & who need patches to suit different guitars, amps, FRFR, headphones etc and are worried about tweaking/over-riding settings and losing the originals. OK, I think Pod Go users are pretty familiar that when there’s a firmware upgrade (which incidentally you should only ever do through the latest Pod Go Edit) the process creates a back-up for you. You can also create a similar back-up if you go into ‘file’ in Pod Go edit and select ‘create backup’. These backups are a total backup of everything in your Pod Go and are convenient from a ‘safety’ aspect as these will get all your patches and IR’s back into your Pod Go if there was a glitch/failure & you lost everything. But it’s an ‘all or nothing’ backup and you can’t see and access individual.pgp or .wav (IR) files within the back-up file, which is a bit of a nuisance if you mucked up a single patch and wanted it back how it was. Now, I think most folk know you can save an individual .pgp file and export it to share or put on Line 6 Custom Tone etc. But some folk are under the impression that it’s a long and laborious process to save every .pgp and .wav file in their Pod Go – with up to 128 files in User, factory & IR sections that’s 384 files. But it actually only takes a minute to create a full back-up of all your user & factory patches & IRs in their proper .pgp and .wav format. Here’s how – I’ve made this step by step but the whole thing takes less than a minute: 1. On your PC or Mac create 3 folders and name them e.g. ‘My factory’, ‘My user’ and ‘My IRs’ 2. Connect your Pod Go to Pod Go Edit 3. Select ‘user’ patches in Pod Go 4. Click on patch ‘01A’ to highlight the whole entry in grey including the patch number (don’t select just the name where it highlights in blue) 5. Using the scrolling bar on the right of the patch list, not your mouse, scroll down to the last patch (let’s say you have used all 128 slots and its 32D but if you have less just go to the end of your list) and just hover the cursor over the patch name and it will highlight it in grey. 6. Now, hold down ‘shift’ on your keyboard and left click your mouse on the patch – you’ll now see ALL 128 factory patches grey highlighted. Now right mouse click and select ‘export’ or ‘Control+E’. 7. A ‘browse for folder’ dialogue box will appear. Go to the ‘My user’ folder you created in step 1, select it and press ‘OK’. ALL your patches will now load into that folder and they will be in full .PGP format that you can import back to Pod Go as individual files, or as a group set, or the whole list. So if you mucked up say patch 24B all you need do is go to that patch in your backup and drag and drop it back in to the relevant slot in Pod Go Edit. 8. Repeat the same process for your factory and IR patches, and you’re done. What’s great is that you can create groups of custom patches eg gig sets, patches for different guitars, patches for headphones tweaked for FRFR etc. Even if you’ve run out of blank slots, once you’ve backed up your original patches, it doesn’t matter if you copy these over other patches you don’t currently need because you have all of those patches backed up. And there’s no limit to the backups you can create. If you wanted to have 15 gigging patches for your Les Paul and 15 for your Strat and 2 for your acoustic, you can import and export these patch groups easily with no risk of losing anything you have. You can use the import & export set-list option within the Pod Go Edit ‘File’ tab, or just drag & drop these in. You can create umpteen patch groups eg those you’ve tweaked for FRFR or with your amp v those you’ve created for Headphones use. The options are virtually endless. You can even create template patches based on your favourite settings so that you don't have to start from scratch when you are creating a new patch.
    1 point
  45. For anyone who wants his variax to be more accurate: https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=24065.0
    1 point
  46. LOL! Well, that's why I suggested you don't buy IR's. Whether an IR is 'good' is wholly subjective. One buyer might think an IR is fantastic, another will think it's awful. A lot of folk who've spent time with IR's have come to the conclusion that they'd just rather stick with the stock cabs. IR's a rabbit hole you can get lost in. If you're expecting a magical solution there really isn't one - but try this one free IR to get you started, as it's pretty decent: https://www.dropbox.com/s/m4fwk8jx6m08hse/ML Sound Lab's BEST IR IN THE WORLD.zip?dl=0 So, are IR's really better than the stock cabs in Pod Go? Better is a highly subjective word, but they can be 'different'. Why do I say 'can be' - that's because the stock cabs are actually pretty good and you'll often be able to tweak these to sound pretty much the same as a lot of IR's. But I honestly think you need to start from the basics and learn a bit about what the stock cabs & mics etc can do. So, just concentrate on ONE cab to begin with. Use that to decide what you like and don't like. for example, I play classic rock so I like Marshall/Marshall type amps. A 4x12 25w Celestion cab is pretty classic. So I picked that cab to start with. I increased the output level by 3-5dB because I found it gives a fuller tone (a big reason why IR's can sound 'bigger' is just that most are set with more Cab output) plus it more clearly highlights the tonal differences from adjustments. I found through experimentation that, generally, I prefer the mic 2.5"-4" away which gives an airier more amp in the room feel without overdoing it. Adding 25% early relic gave me just a tad more 'bouyancy/fullness' to the sound, again without overdoing it. Re the mics, I quickly found that there were only a few favourites that 'did it' for me. No surprises in that these were the three big industry standards. There are really only 3 main MIC types - dynamic, ribbon, and condenser. See here: https://www.musicianonamission.com/types-of-microphones/ For me, I generally mostly go for: SM57 dynamic - this is modelled on the Shure SM57 which is probably the most used mic in recording and micing up amps 160 Ribbon (Bayerdynamic M160) - very expensive studio mic in the real world! I like the 121 too. Occasionally I'll go condenser - typically the 414 Condenser (AKG C414 TL11 The SM57 is very much 'in your face' and will usually sound louder, but the Ribbon mics & Condenser mics pick up different nuances that are more sensitive to touch playing. There's no right or wrong here' it's just what you like. Once you've found a few favourites it makes setting your cab much easier. But it's really easy to go through them all in a minute as a check in case a different mic happens to give a tone you like or are trying to match. Re high & low cut, these are essentially EQ - slide all the way to the left and the right to hear what these do. A common approach is to set these as per the real speaker specs. Look up a 25w Celestion greenback specs and you'll probably see a frequency response range from 70Hz to 5,000 Hz. So setting the low cut to 70Hz and high cut to 5000 Hz pretty much replicates the real thing. But unlike the real thing, you can 'cheat'. Sometimes I'll slide the low cut all the way to the left, and the high cut all the way to the right (off). You'll quickly find what your ears prefer and follow that for other cabs too. Mix - I leave it at 100% generally, just like in the real world. Once you've found a few favourite stock cabs that work for you (and generally I'll go for a Marshall cab with a Marshall, a Fender cab with a Fender amp etc) and set these as you like, THEN it's time to compare with some IR's of those cabs & see if you like the difference, or whether you can actually match the tone pretty much with some minor tweaks and don't need to load the IR anyway. Some IR's you won't be able to match eg they've used multicabs/mics or a cab version that's a bit rare. Think of it like choosing a car - before you buy you need to decide what makes you like - Ford, Mercedes, BMW etc (akin to Marshall, Fender, Vox etc), how many doors (3,4, 5 - akin to 1x12, 2x12, 4x12 speaker) then the specific model (eg Vox 2x12 Blues, Silver, greenbacks), then how does it feel to drive ie how does the cab sound to you? What you're hoping for is that someone can just recommend an IR for you akin to recommending a car for you. I'm afraid me old china that you really need to invest some time in to learn about all this, at least the basics. Although it's a much simpler avenue to Helix modelling than a Helix, the Pod Go is not a plug n play MFX. If you're not prepared to invest some time to learn to walk before you can run, I'm afraid you've just got the wrong unit for your needs. But I promise you, once you get a feel for the basics, it's all actually a lot more straightforward than you think - and learning about tone is a really enjoyable part of the journey because you can make some great discoveries that can transform your tone & your playing enjoyment. But don't get overly hung up on all the permutations - because it honestly doesn't work that way. Hope all this is of some help (others will have different views re approach etc, which is fine). It's a journey, so enjoy it - otherwise you could easily keep ending up at the wrong destination with no understanding as to why!
    1 point
  47. Easy way for me: Copy block. Delete block. Paste block :D
    1 point
  48. The same justification could be used on the Helix over the cost of a Pod. I know plenty who can’t really tell the difference and wonder why you’d pay the extra for a Helix. Again I’ll bring up the example of the difference between a $200 mic preamp and one that costs $2000 or more. The difference is in the parts used as well as the design but the basic principle and function is the same for both. Are you saying that the Neves, Langevins and DW Fearns aren’t worth their prices?
    1 point
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