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  1. 6 points
    Yes... and don't leave them empty, otherwise the electricity leaks out.
  2. 5 points
    1: NO 2: NO Why can't some people accept that there are many of us that found our way past amps and actually prefer it? IMO... It doesn't matter how good I make it sound "for me".... I have to rely on a microphone, placement and a sound tech with skills to make it sound even close to that out front where it really matters. I prefer to put my time and effort into what the people hear, not what I plan to enjoy by myself. Not to mention, the moment I'm on a tour requiring IEM's.... there is zero benefit (for me) to have an "amp in the room". Don't get me wrong... I love amps and own several. It's just not my preferred method. I'm also not telling anyone else they should ditch their amps if that's what they prefer. I can't speak for others... but I have no problems with dynamics, tone or feel and my ears are just fine! Actually... it's knowing what great amps sound like (through experience) that has helped me achieve that at the FOH with modelers.
  3. 4 points
    I've worked with these models a lot. I love all three of them and they are my favorite models in the Helix. Some tips: SLOs sound good with a lot of speakers but they love Vintage 30s.The 2x12 Interstate with 20 Dyn or 160 Ribn at 3.5" is the best Helix cab for that IMHO. SLOs get their sound from the preamp - it's master volume is designed to control volume not distortion. When you increase the master the top frequencies will stop getting louder at some point first - that's what some call the 'sweet spot', because it can add roundness and sustain, judge for yourself if that's what you want. I tend to keep things below that because the sound stays open and consistent below this 'sweet spot'. Soldanos go to 11! A knob at 5 on the SLO is a 4.5 on the Helix. [5.0 * 10 / 11 =4.54] The starting point for Clean and Crunch should be Bass, Mids, Treble, Presence at 4.5, Master at 3. The starting point for Lead IMHO is Bass and Presence at 4.5, Mids and Treble at 6.3, Master at 3. It loves the Stupor OD. I like it with Drive 3, Tone 2.7, Level 5 and I reduce the Mids on the amp for that. A Teemah! can push the Crunch channel to sound close to the Lead channel. The Clean channel is the a tamed version of Crunch channel so you can use Crunch with low Drive and high Master as Clean without hesitation. Combine that and you can stuff all 3 SLO channels in a preset using snapshots [EDIT] SLO's nowerdays have a Depth control, because that was a common mod on the original ones to fatten the sound. To simulate use a Low Shelf and start with +3.5dB at 800Hz. This will make a huge difference and the amp will sound a lot more balanced and modern. I spoke with an owner of a SLO some years ago who played in a Dire Straits cover band. He used the SLO's clean channel with pretty much everything at noon and a Marshall 4x12 V30's cab live and sounded absolutely wonderful. - The Helix nails that sound.
  4. 4 points
    Yes. Three different modelers one for bass, one for acoustic guitar, one for electric guitar lead plus a BeatBuddy all going directly into the mixer, and we do it every single week when we perform. There's no problem with it as long as you understand the basic concepts of how to gain stage your channels on the mixing board which appears to be your main problem. Since you're dealing with an analog mixer you'll need to depress the PFL button on each channel when you want to gain stage it in order for the signal level for that channel to show up on your signal meter. While someone is playing normally, adjust the gain/trim knob on that channel until the level is reasonably below the unity mark at 0db. Turn off the PFL for that channel and do the next one. Once you're done turn off the PFL btton on all the channels so you can monitor the final output of the mixer based on the faders. If you're going to run your own mixing board I'd strongly suggest you watch some YouTube videos on gain staging a mixer to understand what you're doing.
  5. 4 points
    I have a 5E3 clone that I built and can confirm that the Helix is correctly modeling the way in which the controls on an actual Tweed Deluxe interact (the 2 volumes and the tone control all interact with each other). When turned up, the unused channel volume will decrease gain on the channel in use. Rob Robinette has a great article on the technical details here: https://robrobinette.com/How_The_5E3_Deluxe_Works.htm
  6. 4 points
    I discovered something interesting as I was meddling with one of my older presets using 3.1. I had to raise the key for the singer so I ended up using the Poly Capo to go from the key of G to A. I've had a fair amount of success with the Poly Capo placing it before the amp, but it still exhibits some very slight artifacts. Nothing that would probably be noticed by the audience, but I can hear it on certain things. I decided to place the Retro Reel in front of the Poly Capo originally just to thicken things up since I was using a Strat. After a bit of tweaking it pretty much got rid of any of the residual artifacts I'd been hearing and gave the key change a much more natural sound. Just thought I'd pass that along....
  7. 4 points
    I think it might be helpful to some if I provide my understanding of some details about what actually does and does not happen currently during a Helix firmware update, and some associated routine practices that one might want to establish. This post may hold nothing new or interesting for experienced users. Apologies in advance if I’m wasting your time. It’s intended for less experienced users who I hope will find it informative and helpful. It’s also lengthy and detailed so grab a coffee...... As of HX Edit version v3.01, available now, the Helix firmware update process has been significantly improved and further automated. This has not yet been evident, but we are promised that firmware v3.10 is coming soon. If you haven’t yet updated to HX Edit v3.01 you should do so now because it will make the pending firmware update simpler for you. If you’ve been frustrated by the update process in the past you might want to bookmark this post in anticipation of the new firmware. NOTES: A) The fact that I am posting this now does not mean that the firmware release is any more or less imminent than we already know it is, from Digital Igloo’s posts on The Gear Page. I don’t know exactly when it will be released any more than you do. But soon? Yes. That’s why I’m posting this now, so perhaps you can be better informed and prepared for a smooth update when the release happens. B) This information is not from Line 6. As always it represents my own thoughts. This post does not provide firmware update procedures. The firmware update procedures published by Line 6 are sufficient and should be followed exactly as described. I believe nothing in this post is inconsistent with that. Rather, this post provides additional background for interested readers. The HX Edit program now detects that a firmware and/or software update is available, prompts you to proceed with installation, and manages the process with a further series of prompts and actions. After the update process successfully completes your Helix environment is as follows: Your HX Edit program and your Helix firmware are both updated if required and are known to be in a mutually compatible state. This, imho, is the main improvement to the automated process - there should be no more problems due to incompatible versions of the firmware and the editor. This in itself should entice you to update to HX Edit v3.01 immediately. You have a system backup file created as a mandatory part of the automated update process. After the update you may notice a difference in the operations of your Helix device because the update process restored the Global Settings to their default values, which may be different from your pre-update setup. Details on how to handle this follow. Other than the Global Settings, nothing else on your Helix device has been noticeably changed. All setlists, presets, IRs, and Favourites remain in place as they were. All presets have been rebuilt to ensure that their structure conforms to any new features introduced in the new firmware. Following the update you can proceed to use your Helix as you have previously. However, there are some habits that I have developed to take full advantage of the update and to minimize the potential for future issues. I do these things immediately after the firmware update as part of my routine practices. All of these are optional but I offer them for your consideration. 1. Perform a factory reset (restore) on your device. This is recommended by Line 6 although it is not automatically done as part of the update. This wipes out all custom data on your device including non-factory setlists, IRs, and Favourites (not a problem since you have the backup file) and installs the firmware specific factory setlists associated with the new firmware - Factory 1, Factory 2, and Templates. These were not automatically installed as part of the update process (some would say this is a benefit!) and nor are they installed by fully restoring your backup file. Unless you do this manually you don’t have any new or modified presets in these factory setlists. For details on how to perform a factory reset on your specific Helix device see: Helix/Rack/LT/FX/Stomp Reset Procedures and Troubleshooting Tricks 2. Run HX Edit to restore your system backup. Choose to restore everything except the Factory 1, Factory 2, and Templates setlists. This restores your pre-update Global Settings as well as all your custom setlists, IRs, and Favourites. It retains the new factory setlists installed in the previous step. 3. Turn you Helix device off and then on again. This forces all presets to be rebuilt. Do this before you begin playing or editing. Your Helix device is now loaded with all your previous settings and data, any new factory setlist updates, and with all presets rebuilt. You are ready to go with the new firmware. If you had any customized presets in setlists #1, #2, or #8 prior to the update these were replaced in Step 1 above. You still have copies of them in your system backup file and you can recover these if you wish. I suggest you export a copy of the firmware specific factory presets prior to repeating Step 2 above to install only setlists #1, #2, and/or #8. A final note about rebuilding presets: every time your Helix is powered on it looks for presets that need rebuilding and does so before it hands operations over to the user. It’s the final step of the firmware update procedure but only because Line 6 forces a system restart at that point. Why does Line 6 do this? I assume there are good technical reasons and that rebuilding presets is important. I neither know nor care why it’s deemed to be so important (presumably the rebuild makes any necessary changes to preset file structures) but, to me at least, the very fact that it’s a mandatory part of the startup process means it’s important! This means that every time you import a setlist/preset that was last saved using previous firmware you know that - for perhaps mysterious reasons- the presets need to be rebuilt and that this is going to be done on the next startup. Why wait? As part of my routine operations I like to force this rebuilding to be done immediately. In other words, as my normal workflow involves routinely importing setlists and presets, I don’t begin editing any of them before I cycle the power on my Helix. This forces any required preset rebuilding to happen immediately, minimizing the likelihood of potential problems - however rare and mysterious they may be. I hope this helps some folks when Helix firmware v 3.10 is released. Comments, corrections, and further suggestions are welcome.
  8. 3 points
    You'll save a lot of headaches if you just invest in an official Apple camera connection kit. It just works. I recommend the USB 3 model ... it costs more but it will keep your Ipad mini charged during performances.
  9. 3 points
    This is re-post of a firmware re-flash instructions from months ago, when this was a regular chore. Also, I recommend that you become familiar with all the reset options for your device, and the best place to find the info is here: https://helixhelp.com Don’t Panic - It is very rare that a glitch in the firmware will actually turn your device into an paperweight. Let’s just give this one more go around. I keep saying that I will stop doing this, but here we go again. Once more from the top! Firstly go to the "DOWNLOADS" menu at the top of this page and from "-ALL HARDWARE-" select HX Stomp. Leave the "-ALL SOFTWARE-" menu item as it is, now select your Mac OSX from under the "-ALL OS-" tab, then click “GO”. On the next page you will find the first 3 items you will need. The Line 6 Updater v. 1.23, along with HX Edit 3.11 for your HX Stomp and then you will need the Firmware 3.11.0 Flash Memory. Download all these items to your computer and note where they are. Then: Remove all Line 6 software from your computer and then restart your computer. Make sure to turn off the power to your HX Stomp. Unplug the USB cable from the computer and the Stomp. Power up the Stomp while holding down “PAGE >”. This puts the hardware into “Safe Boot” mode. (NOTE: This option is not documented in the regular Reset Options for the Stomp although I have read that others have had this keypress work for them. Should doing this give you a completely blank screen, you should be able to re-install the firmware again.) Leave the HX Stomp powered up. Now you can install the latest HX Edit v. 3.11 Reconnect the USB cable to the Stomp and your computer - Do not use a Hub. (Some USB ports on the front of a PC can act as a hub, so use one on the back). Ensure that HX Edit is closed and also shutdown any other background tasks, screen savers etc., also disconnect from any internet services. You don’t want anything to interfere with this installation routine. Now, find and launch the Line 6 Updater Utility and select "Offline Mode". Your HX Stomp and current firmware version should now show up in the window, click on the dark green coloured band and you should now have the option to select a local file - point it at the Flash Memory file you downloaded and let it get on with the update. When it completes you can launch the new HX Edit v.3.11 software and you should be good to go. No guarantee is given or implied - you do so at your own risk. If this fails, contact Line 6 Customer Support and raise a ticket. Hope this helps/makes sense.
  10. 3 points
    Bypassing HX Stomp Completely Page 14 of the HXS Manual v3.0 rev C
  11. 3 points
    How are you monitoring the Stomp and how is it connected for output? HXEdit has nothing to do with processing the Helix signal chain, but it may have something to do with your USB connection to your PC.
  12. 3 points
    Im a fanboy, I shall fight the battle!
  13. 3 points
    Hi, Two things leap out of your post. I want to buy a Powercab or possibly two. Forgot to mention that I don’t gig anymore. If you’re not playing live, why do you want to buy a couple of PowerCabs, when you already have a pair of Bose PA cabs? What you described, appears to require something more like a home studio setup rather than a live rig. You have a 12’ x 14” room, and if you are wanting to hear full range audio including vocals and backing tracks, you really would be better off investing in some quality powered studio monitors that are designed for exactly those purposes. A pair of powered Yamaha HS7 near field monitors would cost less than one of your SR1 or a PowerCab 112. Hook up a pair of those to your computer and a free DAW and away you go. You would have good stereo separation and audio definition. Hope this helps/makes sense.
  14. 3 points
  15. 3 points
    Well, it depends. Anyway I also like a little reverb to avoid a very dry sound, but just a little to avoid a muddy sounding guitar. I'd also suggest to use very narrow frequency cuts, for example using almost the maximum low cut (about 400-500Hz) because you don't need lows in the reverb, and about 1.5/2kHz as high cut. About mix you could try between 15-25%. If you use 50% it means you're using the maximum reverb level, and more than 50% it means you're cutting the dry tone keeping only the reverbered sound. Adding reverb to a sound means also changing a little the frequency curve of your sound (because reverb will always add/remove some amplitude somewhere) and hiding a little the attack or transient of your sound. About the attack anyway you can get a little help if you use the "pre-delay" option with some 20-30 ms, so that the reverb will start later, leaving more time for your mind to hear the transients of your notes. With the "reverb" block effect (and many other fx, too) it isn't necessary to use a parallel line because the "mix" parameter will do just that, keeping some dry tone directly and adding some effected sound. A separate parallel reverb line can be anyway interesting if you want to add other effects to the reverb sound only (for example a compressor before reverb, and some delay and modulation after the reverb fx). In that case the "reverb" block will need 100% mix, because you will control the dry tone level from the splitting and mixing blocks.
  16. 3 points
    As @tjbassoon said, you need to record a DI track along with your processed track, then play it back through the HXS and adjust to your heart's content! When you get the sound you want, record it to a new track. You'll then have the original processed track and the edited track to compare. It's called "re-amping". See page 56 of the 3.0 manual for the How-To. Or, if you bought your HXS new (or the previous owner didn't exercise the option), you can get NATIVE for $99 and do it ITB.
  17. 3 points
    No latency that I can tell Tuning is amazing but not entirely free of artifacts depending on what you're doing Modelled guitars are good as substitues but require 'tuning' to fit your need and theres lots of 'model packs' about put together by some very knowledgeable people https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?board=138.0 My use case is largely live - Standard >> Helix >> PC+ or DT25 I chage tuning and guitar models between and within songs using snapshopts For live my rig went from 3-5 guitars, 2 x heads, 2+ x cabs, pedal board, DIs for accoustic to 2 x variax standards (one spare), Helix and 2 x PC+ or DT 25 Both standards have been plecked, bone buts put on, and locking trimmng tuners put on - very happy with the feel as a lng term fender player - had a couple of JTV 59s I couldn't love due to feel not working for me Have also used for recording projects and not told people what the guitar used is and never had tone or tuning questioned - including dobro and accoustic models in open tunings and slide Yes - I'm a fan.
  18. 3 points
    If you haven't already seen it, Jason Sadites has a great video on this general topic of 'none of us having ever actually heard what our presets really sound like' It's well worth the 30min watch.
  19. 3 points
    You know, it's ridiculous that given the dependency on software these days for creating music that those software vendors can't be more responsive and plan ahead a little better for upgrades. It's not like Apple just randomly puts out new OS versions every year and everyone is surprised. This industry, including Line6, needs to get much further ahead of the curve. Working in IT myself I thoroughly understand the need to keep up with these new releases given that security and better ways of protecting data are just as important than getting the latest consumer features. It's irresponsible to continue to be so far behind all the time. Given Line6's stature, you would assume they are partnering with Apple and getting insights into roadmaps, etc. through the Developer program. Hopefully this industry will get their act together as we all move further and further into the digital world. It's ripe for disruption for agile companies that can build a better mousetrap and deliver updates much more quickly <end soap box>
  20. 3 points
    Mine uses punch cards and it works just fine.
  21. 3 points
    But what if it's a joystick? ;)
  22. 3 points
    I must say that the Helix Floor that i bought when it came out years ago is the best investment in music gear i have ever done. The way you keep updating and improving this thing is unprecedented. So thank you very very much for the helix Line 6. When and if Helix 2 comes out i'm first in line.
  23. 3 points
    I don't see a problem with the way it works now. HX Edit stays at version 3.0, so if you choose to download only the software called hx edit, it'll only show you 3.0. There is no 3.01.0 HX Edit. If you choose All software, you get everything including firmware. Firmware is not HX Edit. HX Edit is just one (of two) ways to update the helix hardware series with new firmware releases, whether you download them yourself from that website or use HX Edit to download the fw update for you. I see nothing to fix or change on the website based on what you described.
  24. 3 points
    Not that it can't bear some improvement but I have to say I can't see what I hear on @SaschFranck's recording being a huge problem in a live setting. Heck, at least in the clubs, given the sounds of conversation, glasses clinking, chairs moving, servers taking orders, etc.. I don't even see it being much of a problem in a solo setting unless you guys are getting much more polite crowds than I have experienced or are playing in an auditorium you can hear a pin drop in with a rapt audience. Even then I think it could be passable depending on what is being played. Btw, with the exception of a few socially distanced porch jams all my gigs post-COVID have been "solo", as in, just me :-) This is the first iteration of poly in the HX line and it took a while to get here so although everyone hoped it would be perfect out of the gate I think it is only reasonable to give Line6 a little time to refine it. It is pretty decent right now and a paradigm shift for HX with some serious potential. Code optimization is actually at the absolute top of my list for poly enhancements so that it chews up less DSP and allows more of the blocks I use in my signal path to remain. Yet another reason I would love to see a modular approach to modelers where I could just throw some more/faster DSP at this. Glad to see people make specific suggestions on where it can be improved though especially when accompanied by audio that demonstrates areas of concern. Those observations are what will hopefully help drive its future development. It is probably an overstatement to call it unusable(not implying you were saying that) but standards differ between players. Perhaps some will have to wait(could be a long time) to use it live until it hits their threshold for performance use. For me I think I could find places to use it now, as it is.
  25. 3 points
    Nobody's are... and yes, I've purchased a bunch (mostly out of curiosity) from various sources, including some of the more highly touted ones often mentioned around here... and I don't use a single one of them. That being said, Jason Sadites' youtube channel has some excellent Helix tutorials for getting acquainted with the process of creating your own tones... just don't confuse process with product. Trying to reproduce tonal continuity using a carbon copy of settings that work for someone else, with their rig, guitars, listening environment, playing technique, etc etc, is mostly a pipe dream. The variables are numerous and significant... and this will be true no matter who's you purchase, or how awesome they sounded in the demo. If you're expecting to buy them and instantly have the exact same tone you've heard in videos that feature those very same patches, the odds are that you will come away confused and disappointed. Watch some of his videos to see how and why he does certain things... but don't fixate on duplicating every last parameter, because it'll never sound exactly the same on your end... it's the methodology that matters, not individual numbers. Once you understand what various parameters do, then finding the sound you want becomes much less daunting. But ultimately there are no shortcuts.
  26. 3 points
    Not at all I think. In my experience Line 6 wants beta testers who want to seek out problems and make sound recommendations for improvement. Fan boys are not good beta testers if all they want to do is extol the virtues of a product. A healthy disrespect is very useful. The desired attitude is "I want to bring this thing to its knees and make it crash spectacularly!" Edit: added the word ‘not’ which was originally omitted.... Fan boys are not good beta testers.....
  27. 3 points
    I'm 100% on board for more synth stuff. We have enough amps and effects unless they wanna throw us some more ambient/experimental type effects like glitching and stuff! To be honest I'm quite a bit let down about it not having more synth stuff considering how guitar synth stuff has exploded lately. I have a boss sy-1000 and gk pickups and can use external synths like my hydrasynth and wavestate etc... with it but it would be nice if helix got in the synth game. If helix could do great synths it would be powerful with that and variax. It would be a boss sy-1000 on steroids where you could conjure up awesome synth tones, acoustic guitar stuff, alt tunings, different modelled electrics and bass etc... I can do all that with sy-1000 but I'd love to be able to do it all in helix instead and be more powerful with 4 signal paths (instead of 3 in sy-1000) and more fx blocks in helix 32 (instead of like 15 in sy-1000) and helix routing and fx loops and stuff would just make it a killer over sy-1000. If helix got to the point of having strong polyphonic synth options that are great I would drop my gk pickups and sy-1000 and get my a variax but it would have to be much better than sy-1000 before changing. Able to sound good, split strings, great alt-tunings, good filters etc..
  28. 3 points
    I would be nice to have a standalone version. For all the reasonns mentioned above, and sometimes I just want to pick the guitar, plug it it, and practice with a good tone. And don't have to open any DAW would be nice...
  29. 3 points
    Powercab x12+ has three modes Flat Mode - has three voicings that select the final post-processing EQ and crossover settings for the speaker system. XLR out is the same as the Powercab input (for all voicings) FRFR - Uses the high-frequency compression driver with a flattened frequency-response EQ for full-range operation. The tweeter is on, XLR out is the same as the Powercab input. Use when cab or IR models are provided before the Powercab input.Good for acoustic instruments. LF Raw - Uses only the woofer with no EQ applied, allowing Powercab to be utilized like a typical 12" guitar speaker. Tweeter is off. Use with no IR or cab processing at the input. LF Flat - Uses only the woofer with a flattened frequency response EQ. This voicing is used as the normalized basis for the Speaker models. Essentially each Speaker model is an EQ added to LF Flat that reproduces the sound of the modeled speaker. Tweeter is off. Use this for a different guitar speaker sound. Speaker - each speaker model adds EQ to to the to the LF Flat basis to reproduce the sound of the speaker model. XLR output is a cab model that matches the speaker model, and includes a mic model. Tweeter is always off. This is probably the mode that leverages the unique features of Powercab the most to provide the amp in the room sound. It is actually a guitar speaker in the room with no mic model. Use with no IR or cab processing at the input. IR - uses IRs on the Flat/FRFR voicing for additional speaker selections. XLR output includes the IR processing. The tweeter is always on. Use with no IR or cab processing at the input.
  30. 2 points
    I am going to provide how I would do it on my Helix LT... I'm sure it is very similar on a stomp, and if I am wrong hopefully someone will correct me. I'm going to do this through HX Edit, as it is likely more "uniform" than trying to explain it through a different device. This is my preferred method..... the Merge Block Connect to the preset through HX Edit.... Click on the MERGE BLOCK (the node where path B returns to path A) Right Click on "B Level" and assign it to a footswitch of your choice Now go to "bypass / controller assign" Highlight the "mixer > b level" assignment Set the MIN Level to -60 (the lowest it will go) Set the MAX Level to 0 Now the footswitch you assigned will act like it is turning Path B on & off by turning the Return Level of Path B up and down. NOTE: You could also assign the EQ and Ptich to that same footswitch, but I think that would be redundant. To do this using the SPLIT Block.... you can try this. Connect to the preset through HX Edit.... Click on the SPLIT BLOCK (the node where path A splits off to Path B) Set the Split to "Split A/B" Right Click on "Route to" and assign it to a footswitch or your choice Now to to "bypass / controller assign" Highlight the "Split A/B > Route To" assignment Set the MIN Level to "A 100" (only A path) Set the MAX Level to "Even Split" (this sends equal amounts to both Path A and Path B) Now the footswitch you assigned will act like it is turning Path B on & off by turning the SEND Level of Path B up and down. Hopefully that works with the Stomp & Stomp XL like it does on my LT.
  31. 2 points
    The Sony MDR-7506 (same as the MDR-V6) are foldable and work great with the HX Stomp (as well as many other sources). They have been an industry standard in the Film, TV and Recording industries for decades. The BeyerDynamic 990 Premium are also foldable. However, as they are 600 ohm, they may not be the best impedance match for the HX Stomp's headphone output! Try before you buy if you can. Otherwise, buy from a vendor with a satisfaction return guarantee.
  32. 2 points
    Hey, I love that a Line 6 expert answers questions here, but your example of 'cranking up the amp'?? That makes no sense. The 75 has a maximum volume attainable, and it should not make a difference if you have channel volume and master volume on 10 or not as to what the amp can attain for volume - whether you are in a garage or an arena. Of course throwing a big boost on the input to get more volume can present issues - but typically this would fry the input circuit, right?
  33. 2 points
    @themetallikid.... the top view of your board looks a lot like mine, right down to the wireless position. That is certainly a problem as that size almost requires a board of it's own. Sometimes there is no way to cheat "size" - LOL!
  34. 2 points
    Thanks All. And sorry for sounding like a cheapskate :)
  35. 2 points
    Exactly, start with firmware/software, eliminate that as a possible cause then move on to hardware. Have to say though, I can't begin to count(a lot) how many users I have heard proclaim with 100% assurance and finality that they suspect or definitely have a hardware issue only to find out it is related to the update process not being executed properly or some other non-hardware related issue. In this case I agree though, looks like @Maxy71 did what he needed to do on the firmware/software side and this is quite possibly a hardware problem. Just pays to eliminate the stuff you can do yourself first that may save you a return/repair and downtime on your device. It would be interesting to know what percentage of devices returned for repair or even refund, are simply victims of a failed update. Grateful to everyone on this forum who shares their knowledge and experience. What a great resource! Oh, and thanks for the entertainment during the quarantine!
  36. 2 points
    Check your cabling and try swapping cables out and check all connections. Might even try swapping out guitars, especially if one is active and has a battery. Looks like you are going direct but if you are miking amps you could have a problem with a defective "microphonic" amplifier tube introducing distortion as the amp's input level increases from the Stomp. Double check your mixer's channel settings especially the input trim/gain(not the faders) and make sure it is not set too high. Test it at a lower level. Are both channels EQ'd the same way with the same FX? Start troubleshooting by removing any EQ and FX from the guitars' channels and test them flat. Maybe something like a reverb or delay on your mixer is "running away" once things get cranking. Post EQ and FX could easily be at fault if the issue only exists in the PA. Make sure your mains are not overloading. Keep an eye on your meters if you have 'em. Are both players running either Line or Instrument level out to the board? The board may be responding differently and more prone to clipping if for example only one of the Stomp's outputs is set to "Line". Set them both to Instrument level. What do you hear in the mixer's headphones feed when you solo each channel during a "distortion" event? That might help you narrow things down to a single Stomp as the culprit if the issue is not cumulative. Make sure you don't have phantom power turned on in one of the channels. Just some of what I might do to try and hone in on the problem. Also, as always having adequate and clean power is critical. Some folks have reported problems with the Stomp when their power isn't dependable.
  37. 2 points
    Go over to Ideascale, DO A SEARCH for preset leveling or preset balancing, and VOTE for all the identical posts made by folks who didn't bother to search before posting. It's probably been posted AT LEAST 10 times. Not only that, it's a problem with EVERY HW and SW modeler, so apparently, it's not an easy nut to crack.
  38. 2 points
    After troubleshooting possible power problems, S.O.P for wonky Heli is to do a factory reset.
  39. 2 points
    Both Time and NoteSync are easy to setup concurrently with Min/Max Values, but the only way I can see to switch between the two modes is manually. The only solution I can see is to use identical delays with different settings and toggle them. DSP costly, especially if you're using HXS or HXFX. Maybe a good candidate for Ideascale?
  40. 2 points
    You should need only one Volume, Level and EXP PEDAL set to Snapshot control, then saved as required in EACH Snapshot.
  41. 2 points
    God help me, I love these discussions that go nowhere and solve nothing....;) Like rack units? Get one. Like floor units? Get one. Perfectly happy with a crappy old Pignose and a pawn shop Tele? Awesome. In the end, anybody's personal preference for one over the other(s) isn't worth two wet farts. We now return you to your regularly scheduled "tastes great/less filling" debate.
  42. 2 points
    It’s possible that you have a hardware fault. I would open a support ticket.
  43. 2 points
    FWIW - tested this using my Moskey Dual Switch, OP appears to have found a genuine bug.
  44. 2 points
    In case you haven't seen it, there is a great website that allows you to view the settings of any Helix preset. https://dbagchee.github.io/helix-preset-viewer/ Of course, many of these presets have additional blocks that aren't available in Pod Go but I've still found it very useful for building similar tones. Just download a Helix preset and open it up in the viewer to view the parameters of each block.
  45. 2 points
  46. 2 points
    This post is intended to assist those that still require the aging Variax Workbench (original) on their Windows 10 machine in order to edit their first generation Variax guitars. Please note: You still need a variax interface or supporting device (XT Live, X3 Live, X3 Pro, HD500, HD Pro) in order to connect your Variax to the computer. The current installers on their own will throw errors or simply won't work... but it all has to do with the JAVA pointers in the installation. They simply don't "point" to the right locations anymore. Download an older 32 bit JAVA installation.... Visit this site... (note. This may change in time, don't count on it being here forever) https://www.oracle.com/ca-en/java/technologies/oracle-java-archive-downloads.html Click on the JAVA SE 6 link (you can try something higher if you want, but I know this one works which is why I mention it) Navigate to the "Windows x86" package and download it. Install this package Download 'Variax Workbench" from the Line 6 download area. Choose "Variax Workbench" from the SOFTWARE dropdown Choose "Windows 7" from the OS dropdown Click GO Now download version 1.75 for Windows Install the software, but uncheck the option to install JAVA Variax Workbench should now load.... and hopefully see your guitar if it is connected through a supporting device.
  47. 2 points
    With the input pad off, I felt that many amps were overly distorted at very low volume/drive settings (esp. non-master volume amps). Of course part of the challenge here is that the modelled volume / drive / master volume knob tapers may not match that of the original pots on the physical amp. With the input pad on, the dynamics, sensitivity and tone are a lot more realistic. The best way I can describe it is that the input pad on seems closer to the real experience and with it off, it's like there's a permanent +6dB boost always engaged (which can be good or bad depending on guitar/signal chain). At this point, the only way to further reduce signal is post AD converter with a gain block. I was asking if anyone else had tried that and what the results were - good or bad
  48. 2 points
    If anyone in here is interested - Helix Native 3.01 is available to Download. 12/8/20 “The Helix 3.01 update addresses potential severely corrupted audio output. Due to this, we recommend updating your Helix family device as soon as possible. This issue may also be experienced on Helix Native, an update for Native will be available in the very near future.” I know Helix Native has it’s own forum, but not that many people actually visit or post in there. Last time that Digital_Igloo posted about an update was for 1.50 in January 2018 IIRC, some were asking in this forum. Hope this helps.
  49. 2 points
    Horizon Drive -> Solo Lead OD -> York MES 212 V30 = end of quest for metal tone. ...for now...
  50. 2 points
    I recreated the Freqout good enough to get me through a couple songs I needed that edge/into feedback kind of sound without having to bring it to a gig. Its on CustomTone. https://line6.com/customtone/tone/4237762/ . Operates a little bit differently by using the expression pedal but the instructions are in the patch notes and is the "Natural High" setting on the FreqOut. You may have to change outputs. Its set up as a gig patch using Input 2 for a bass path irrelevant to the Guitar Patch on input 1 so ignore that. I tried to use Autoswell on a momentary to bring in the path but that effect is overall frustrating and was better on the Exp pedal. Even with the FreqOut, I like the Exp pedal over a momentary anyway. If there was available LFO assignments like on the Digitech GNX ( maybe even RP) stuff, the path could be automated for a momentary better.
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