skryptus

It's probably more a matter of keeping the interface simple and clean for the base target audience of the POD Go.

You can set the tempo setting in global settings so it allows to show the tempo (and allow you to change it manually) and have the blinking light at the same time. Or you can just have it show on screen without the blinking light (but keeping the tap tempo functionality).

I think those regulations only apply to the manual included with the device (at least in the EU), and even that one is not followed to the law (there should be a manual, or whatever they include as such, in the language of the countries it's sold in, but I live in Portugal and I don't get a portuguese pamphlet.. Not that I mind). As a rule, that one's never updated unless to reflect actual model changes, at least that I heard of. But for the online available manuals, there aren't such restrictions (again, at least in Europe, and especially when the company is based in the US and has no website dedicated to the European customers like some companies do) - most tech companies only have online manuals in English plus half a dozen more languages.

They really should though - there's several new functions in the POD Go itself (meaning, not in PG Edit) which aren't documented in the patch notes (which is relatively hard to find as it is, and unless Google starts helping out, will become lost to time), and most people won't know how to use them without looking at Youtube videos (even the Line 6 one doesn't show how to trigger most actions). PG Edit's manual probably got an update for that exact reason - to explain how to trigger the new features.

If you don't happen to use the Volume Pedal of the POD Go (as many seem not to), you can also set it to a specific volume level of your choice (un-assigning the default behavior of using the expression 2) and set its bypass to a footswitch. When you connect your Charvel you just click the switch on for the corresponding volume cut, and when you connect your Texas you switch it off, restoring full volume.

As far as I know, the POD Go isn't ever directly linked to your account, the only thing with a direct link is the PG Edit on your computer. The preset files don't even contain a reference to the account, if I remember correctly. Things like license verifications are only done in PG Edit when you're adding the presets. But if you factory reset it, the presets are gone, so the new user won't be able to use the ones you bought. But again, if you wanted to let him (to increase the value of the POD Go), he still wouldn't have access to your account - only to the presets inside the POD Go at the time you delivered it. In any case, the POD Go will still be linked inside your account (assuming you registered it). But I believe the new user could still register it in his - from what I've heard there's an option to declare it as second hand, although I've never tried it. But again, he wouldn't have access to any information or purchases from your account.

Also, to clarify another point - the volume knob on the POD Go only controls the final output volume. It's neither a pre-amp volume (aka gain) nor a power amp volume (aka master). So it won't ever affect distortion in the POD Go. The best way to describe it would be comparing it to the output volume knob on a DAW (ie. after the whole signal and recording chain).

On the note of POD Go to Helix conversion, your best bet might be editing the .pgp files into .hlx files by hand. It will require some adaptation, but if you have some tech know-how, you can get some Helix files from CustomTone, understand the differences and adapt yourself. Otherwise, you'll have to do it by hand - you can heavily document your current presets from PG Edit and replicate the same settings when you get the Helix.

The easiest way to check if it's a DSP issue or not is actually freeing the block in the preset, then adding the effect, either through PG Edit or through the POD's UI. Unless you actually did the math on all the blocks (and keep in mind the available usage data might not be reliable in this method, as it assumes 0 usage for some "mandatory" blocks, if I remember correctly), you can still hit the limit with "low" DSP blocks, if you try and use 6 effects blocks.

You're mixing up your terms. A preset (or patch) contains up to 4 snapshots in the POD Go. In the preset list, only one position is occupied. When you select that preset, you can then enter snapshot mode (if you've never used it, it's likely hitting the mode to go from stompbox mode to preset mode and then hitting up+down once to go from preset mode to snapshot mode) to flip through the available snapshots (it'll always show 4, but depends on the preset how many were actually set - on a default preset, all 4 would be the same).

Is your POD Go new or you bought it used? If it's new, you should use it with the USB cable that came in the box. If that doesn't work, there might be an issue either in the USB on the POD Go (and in that case you should invoke the warranty) or in the PC (might help us helping you if you tell us which computer, OS, etc.). You can try another PC if you can (a friend's, if you only have one at home). Also, make sure you're not using any USB hub. It may also help running the PG Edit in administrator mode, although I don't think that should make a difference in connection stability.

You don't have a way to assign a patch/snapshot to a footswitch on the POD Go. The best you could do would be assigning a pedal/amp parameter change combination to it (usually it's the bypass, but it can be other things - so maybe it could be almost as powerful as a snapshot, but likely with limitations - I don't know how many parameters you can assign to a footswitch, and I'm not even 100% sure if you can assign multiple parameter changes at the same time - you can for the block bypass parameter, but I never tried other parameters). Then, there's the matter if the ENGL footswitch is compatible with what the POD Go expects from the FS7/8 - but I actually can't help you there, as I'm still trying to understand which footswitches work and which don't. EDIT: in either case, there shouldn't be the risk of blowing anything. It might just not work as you want it to. So, if you already have the footswitch and splitter, I'd say try it; but if you don't, and don't want to risk buying stuff which might not serve the purpose you want them to, maybe hold off until you have a clearer picture of what you can do with them.

There's 2 different actions: - if you're in any mode where you can see Bank/Preset/Snapshot Up+Down and you press Up+Down at the same time for a few seconds, you'll swap between switching Banks, Presets or Snapshots (so, if you're in Bank Up+Down, you'll go to Preset Up+Down, and so on). You can also configure this directly in Global Settings > Switches/Pedals > Up/Down Switches. - if you're either in Stomp Mode or Snapshot Mode and you press very briefly Up+Down you'll switch to the other mode (so, if you're in Preset Mode, you'll switch to Snapshot Mode, and vice-versa). It's this last one that you want. But you have to be in Stomp Mode. If you're in Preset Mode (where you see the 4 Presets from the current Bank), then you need to press the Mode button to get into Stomp or Snapshot Mode. This just means that you changed something to the preset and haven't saved it yet. If you save it (or switch to another preset and come back, discarding the change), it will disappear.

Keep in mind Jason Sadites' suggestions are, for the most part, only applicable as-is in Helix/Helix LT, as they often include using several compressors and EQs which, for POD Go and HX Stomp users, isn't really viable. He does however have a base template for POD Go (which I downloaded, but haven't tried as my POD Go is currently in the shop), which might be a bit more undersized, given POD Go's limitations. I also wanted to mention that there's usually a few ways of looking at POD Go's block availability - mine goes toward seeing it as a 10 block device with 6 mandatory blocks (Volume, Wah, Amp, Cab/IR, FX loop and EQ) and 4 free blocks. If you need more than 4 blocks, which is usually the case if you want to have more than one of the same type of effect (be it OD, delay, modulation, etc.), the POD Go might not be the device for you. Before I ordered mine, I actually did the math and saw if the 4 blocks would be enough for most of my use cases. It also might not be the device for you if you need any version of multiple paths, be it multiple amps, multiple cabs, multiple effect chains, or multiple instruments. That said, there's also a workaround to the 6 mandatory blocks that allows you to remove some in less official ways (ie. manually modify the .pgp preset file, which is basically a JSON text file, or use one of the template presets that are around). There are some caveats in some cases (if you remove the Amp, Cab, Volume, Wah or FX loop, you have no way of adding them back later through the interface), and people are still testing it out to see if there are no problems (so, if you don't want to risk it, maybe let some time go until you try it), but, hey, it's out there.

Hi guys, Is there any way of using the Aux (or equivalent) and the AUX at the same time? I use a Looper Boss RC-1) in the FX loop for some looping fun, but every now and then I also like to connect my smartphone over the AUX, which as you know, shares the same input as the FX return. As the Boss RC-1 is reported not to handle line level well, going out the main out isn't a good idea. The problem is every time I want to switch, I need to plug and unplug the cables and change the global settings so the FX return works one way or the other. I was thinking if there was some way I might have both on at the same time, so I can reduce the hassle at switching time. Thanks in advance!

Seeing as there's no parallel paths in the POD Go, you can't do it quite like that. In theory you can cheat it somewhat if you put the effects after the cab and use the Amp out (cut before the cab) to one of the channels and the Main out to the other channel, but you wouldn't have cab emulation on the Amp out channel.

There's no multiple paths on the POD Go, so I don't think that's something you're able to do. The best you could do, like @grdGo33 said, is use a stereo delay, like the Dual or the Ping Pong, and adjust it so it gets the effect you want. It's possible that, if you set the Mix so you only hear the delay and not the original signal, but you'd have to try (or ask someone here to try - my POD Go is currently in the shop, so I can't help you there).

The AUX volume is supposed to be controlled from the device you're plugging into it (usually a phone or a MP3 player or a laptop).

I would guess Max volume. That's the same it was before when it only controlled Main, Amp Out would be at full volume, I think. The point of that is that you're giving the "uncontrolled" signal the maximum signal-to-noise ratio, and leaving the volume control to the sound guy (which, ideally, should have a good grasp on how to handle your high volume signal.. although, from what I've seen, that's not always the case).

From my understanding, this can be related to the sensor in the expression pedal, which can be affected under extreme heat or sometimes direct sunlight. I've read about some people's workaround being protecting/covering the sensor somehow but a simpler workaround, if you don't often use the expression pedal as a volume pedal, would be disabling that function in your presets. @voxman55 was your problem also when using it outdoors, or was it a different situation?

Hi everyone, I've been looking for a decent alternative to enable FS 7/8 in my POD Go. The issue is the most popular alternatives worldwide aren't as available here, or take too long and have extra shipping costs that make them not worth it. I live in Portugal, so I'd prefer to buy locally and bypass the shipping costs, but I'll order online if the shipping costs aren't too great (Thomann, for instance, is out of question, charging 20€ for shipping). I found this, available in a store nearby, but I'm not sure if it's compatible : https://www.ludimusic.com/produtos/n/217356/1169/pedal-de-switch-laney-fs2-mini-foot-switch Any more suggestions? Thanks in advance!

First of all, thanks for all the comments. I'll take all your feedback into advisement (especially the part about the pod not being as much plug'n'play as the alternatives - although I do like to tinker, having limited time, I'll have to think if I should invest in something that might require me to tinker before sounding good). @pianoguyy I wouldn't say I need a tube amp, maybe I don't even need something new. I'm just considering these alternatives as an upgrade of tone and features from my Cube 30 and Pandora PX4D, with slightly more volume control than the Cube 30 - not sure if it's just my unit, but it jumps from "no sound" to "a bit too loud for night playing", at least with the eq at noon (to bring it down to more reasonable volumes, I'm currently dropping the eq). Maybe I should have mentioned this, but I live in an apartment. Also, at first, I'd probably use the HD500X through headphones. I do have a set of basic powered speakers (not PC speakers, but not monitor-level either) which I could connect if I wanted live sound - but if I am honest, that probably won't happen often, as the HD500X will probably occupy enough space around my sofa area (I already noticed having my main music gear in another room, or in the other side of the living room where my guitar stand is, doesn't lead to me using it, so now I keep it around my place in the sofa). But it's one of the things I'm considering as something of a disadvantage of the HD500X - playing mostly with headphone. On the other hand, with the HD500X, I know the headphone out will be of good quality :) which I think isn't the case with the Bugera V5 (many users say the headphone out sucks, some say it's okay), and haven't found much information regarding the Spark's headphone out - and in the Cube 30, it's way too low - I have to keep changing the master volume, so I end up using the Pandora when I want to be silent, even if the Cube has better tone.

Hi there. I've recently purchased a Variax Standard used and I'm really liking the thing! I currently mostly play through a Roland Cube 30 and a Pandora PX4D when I don't want to/can't make much noise - the Cube is a bit too loud, even in the minimum volume (in hindsight, I should maybe have gone with a less powerful one, but they usually had less features, at the time). I also have a M-Audio Black Box, but I've used it mostly as a USB interface than a multi-effects pedal, 2 Danelectro Cool Cat overdrives and a Boss RC-1 Looper pedal. I was considering upgrading the Cube (the Pandora is good enough for silent practice), without breaking the bank. I was considering 3 alternatives, so far: - a cheap "bedroom" valve amp - the frontrunner being the Bugera V5, due to price, features and tone (I have a couple of OD pedals which would make it far more flexible, but due to its darker nature, I'd also have to get an eq pedal). - Positive Grid Spark - lots of people speaking well of it, and it has lots of features (not all of them interesting, but most) and amp/pedal models. - HD500X - firstly for the Variax interactions, but also for the flexibility and interactivity (footswitches are better than apps). Just to clarify, at the moment, and in the foreseeable future, the goal is home use, so, even though I know the HD500X shines in live use, it's not an important point for me (even though I'd like doing live stuff, I'm aware I probably won't have the time anytime soon). My tastes are more bluesy, a bit of rock (classic, mostly), some stuff like Santana, but NO metal needed (nothing against it, just not my cup of tea). Main influences would be John Mayer, Joe Bonamassa, Santana, Brian May, Gary Moore, Jimi Hendrix, Stevie Ray Vaughan, Eric Clapton. My thinking is, although the Bugera V5 is probably the champion tone-wise by far, its reduced flexibility (even with the 2 OD pedals, I won't be able to reach Santana-like lead tones.. also, no acoustic stuff) and lesser performance at lower volumes or over headphones put it at a disadvantage. The Spark has for it the features, and probably the amp model quality (even if the HD500X was the flagship when it was released, that happened in 2013, so the 8 years are weighing on the tech). The HD500X has for it the interactivity (like I said, actual footswitches are more interesting, and practical, than using an app), a few of the features (although I already have a looper, an integrated one that I can place wherever I want in the chain is a plus) and the larger pedal range. The reason I didn't put the Bugera in the topic is because I'm mostly leaning between the Spark and the HD500X - I don't think I'll be able to play the Bugera at a volume where it shines, and I'm not sure I want to buy an amp right now that doesn't support acoustics in any way (I'm really digging the acoustics in the Variax Standard - they might not be perfectly accurate for some people, but they allow me to have a decent acoustic sound at all times of day and night, and have a guitar next to me that I can switch from electric to acoustic at the flick of a switch). I'm aware this is maybe not the most objective crowd (it is a Line 6 forum, after all), but I'm hoping to find some people with experience in a few of the alternatives (the Spark, by the way, is based in the very popular BIAS plugins from Positive Grid, so if you have some experience with that, it can also apply here) to give me their opinion on the matter.