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Everything posted by bmk5140

  1. Logistics to/from Brazil would be complicated, but not necessarily a deal breaker... is your unit back up and running?
  2. Hey gang, I looked at doing this a couple years back but it didn’t quite work out: I’d like to trade my mint-condition, never gigged, 2016 Helix floor unit and backpack straight across for a Helix rack/Helix control combo. If anyone is interested, we can work out details over PM.
  3. So I'm not sure which direction this thread is going as some of these replies are quite some time after the OP. Bottom line: I've got a like-new Helix Floor with backpack that I would trade for a rack/control setup. I do not play out whatsoever so a rack setup makes a lot more sense for me. PM me if you like...
  4. I can confirm tuner audio routing broken on 2.54.
  5. Anyone else having a problem with the tuner audio routing? I have mine mine set to send audio to Send 3/4 when the tuner is on... but nothing is sent. Same for Send 1/2, although 1/4” and multi work. Sends work fine outside the tuner screen. Worked fine prior to update.
  6. I leave it on. It’s externally powered in my setup. The display stays on but doesn’t flicker or do anything distracting since its input is dead when not tuning.
  7. ST-300 strobe tuner. Best tuner I’ve ever used. I run send 3 to the tuner input. In my Helix tuner settings I route the output to Send 3/4. When not tuning, none of my guitar audio is routed through the tuner. See my posts here:
  8. Activate the Helix tuner. One of the options is something like “output†which defaults to mute all or something. Twist that knob and select the outputs you want left alive during tuning. I set mine to send 3/4 or something like that. Sorry, I’m not in front of my unit but that should get you in the ballpark.
  9. There’s an option on the tuner screen to send the guitar signal to an output (such as Send 1). I use this method with my strobe tuner. Better than a send/return block that you’d have to add to each preset.
  10. These folks have what you need:
  11. I haven't seen this on IdeaScale yet... I'd like to see some additional footswitch capabilities, namely the ability to assign a footswitch in stomp mode which will, when pressed, open an additional page of stomp switches. FS 6 would become the "EXIT" button as in the looper mode. This would allow additional pages for FX bypass buttons, dedicated MIDI IA pages, DAW control pages, etc.
  12. Yep. Easiest is to change the split block to A/B and assign a controller to toggle the signal flow between A and B.
  13. There are actually a lot of ways to skin this cat with Helix. Without making your signal path super complicated, you could strategically place a Send block in your signal path (wherever you see fit, pre-cab block). Make sure that you setup the block so that it passes audio downline as well as to the send. This would allow you to pick off the audio and send it to your stage amp. Another way (if you're not using all four available paths), is to split down to a new signal path (again, pre-cab block) and route to the ¼" outs. This would allow you to add different processing after the split point. You'd have to make sure that you changed your FOH outputs from "multi" to "XLR." That's just a couple quick and dirty ideas... the routing capability in the Helix really is very powerful. Another tip when running separate stage/FOH feeds: go into your global settings and assign the big volume knob to only control whatever output(s) you are using to drive your stage amp - that becomes your "monitor" volume and the FOH feed is sent at unity gain - let the FOH guy deal with his levels without worrying about you making monitor volume changes. Hope that helps a little.
  14. Search the iOS app store for Faber Acoustical. They have several apps that could help you. I use SignalScopePro, which includes a great set of meter functions along with FFT and octave displays. Everything can be calibrated if you have access to calibrated standards. For a quick and dirty "loudness" tuning, no calibration is needed. I would inject some pink noise at the start of your signal path-bring it in from the Faber app or other suitable source-on a patch that will be your "standard" for loudness, and take a reading from a set distance. Then, inject the same pink noise into your patches to be "matched" and set levels as you see appropriate along the signal path until you get roughly the same measurement at the same distance. You don't need calibration since you aren't going for a strict quantitative value, you're just normalizing everything. Hope that makes sense...
  15. I've messed around with both. 4CM to both a DT25 head/cab (great, underrated little hybrid amp) and my favorite tube amp combo of all time, the Boogie Mark V through a 1x12 closed-back. It works as expected and once you dial in your levels/tones everything sounds fantastic. However, what I have found is that when I want to use amp models in the Helix there is a troublesome amount of tweaking involved to get things fired up and sounding great through what I'm calling a "mismatched pre/power" combination. Can you get great sounds? Yes. It just takes work - but you are always going to be playing a frankenstein combination of preamps and power sections. At first I didn't care since I started using the Helix exclusively as an FX unit, but lately I'm loving the new Matchless amp models and I've always been a fan of the SLO100 models from the DT25 (the Helix ones sound even better). So I started monkeying around and I found a solution that is finally allowing me to sleep at night (and get some bad-lollipop guitar sounds): I hooked everything up with what I call the "five-cable" method. I isolate my Mark V's preamp using send/return 1 on the Helix (send to the Mark V input, return from the Mark V send). I isolate the power amp using a Cabclone and Helix send/return 2 (send to the Mark V return, return from the Cabclone). This also allows me to effectively "simulate" the FX loop on the Mark V by placing FX between the pre- and power-amp S/R blocks. Depending on what output you use on the Cabclone you can optionally defeat the Cabclone's cabinet emulation and use a cab sim in the Helix (and there are some great-sounding combinations in there). Either way sounds great and gives virtually unlimited "tonal possibilities." Everything sounds REALLY good through my cans and studio monitors. At home I also use the Mission Gemini via the 1/4" outs and it sounds amazing as well - particularly if you dial the "cab bias" knob up to about 75% to get closer to the subjective "amp in the room" sound. Make sure levels are matched in the global settings and remember that any balanced audio you bring back to the Helix sounds best through some kind of a Reamp-type solution. This setup allows me to capture the best of both worlds - the Mark V sound is beyond reproach and I still have the great Helix models available without a bunch of re-patching. You lose the real-life guitar cabinet - which is not a big deal for me since the available loadbox/cab modeling solutions like the Cabclone and Two-Notes sound like the real thing (mic'd up); I'm also getting spooled up to make some IRs of my favorite cabinets. I'm now used to hearing the same sound in the live room and through monitors/foldback - took me about two minutes to get used to it. You could also bring the cab back into the equation if needed for certain patches, but I haven't wanted it yet (and I'm a self-confessed guitar amp snob/geek). Although I don't play live, if I did, I would bring the Helix, the Mark V head, and MAYBE the Gemini (if the performance dictated a traditional backline). I'd give the stereo balanced outputs to the FOH. If I was gigging out a lot I'd build up a pedalboard, snake, and breakout box rig to make stage connections and setup flexible and easy. I already use the Voodoo control switcher to run the Mark V and it could easily be incorporated into a live rig. I have also tried this same setup at with the DT25 (via the DT25 cab sim output) and it sounds really good as well.
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