rd2rk

Contact support. If it's being caused by the "known issue" they'll take care of it regardless of warranty status.

No, not in MIDI 1.0, which is the current implementation in most HW, SW and controllers. While it is technically possible in MIDI 2.0, it requires both the controller and the HW/SW being controlled to implement the new 2.0 spec in a compatible way. Just as it took many years for the one-way communication in MIDI 1.0 to be widely implemented, it will take many more years for 2.0's 2-way capabilities to be widely implemented.

I found it in that subheading, and mine is the same as yours, so that is not the problem. Check the Catalyst listing in Sound, video and game controllers. I asked some posts back, what processor are you running, but don't see where you answered. Could be that your processor, if not Intel, is not properly compatible. If it is Intel, try updating all of your Intel and other Motherboard drivers. I'm really just throwing spitballs at the wall to see if anything sticks. Since you're using free SW you probably won't get much support from the publisher but that might be your best bet at this point.

What is the Device Manager Path? Device Manager>Sound, video and game controllers>Catalyst 100-112 I don't have a listing for Digital Audio Interface,

Go to the source. Open a support ticket and explain the problem and the results of your trip to the repair center. If you live in the US they'll probably have you send it to them. If not, they'll know what to do.

A couple of things. First, this is a user-to-user support forum. Nobody from L6 hangs out here. Second, the Helix line is approaching EOL. There will be no further MAJOR updates, just bug fixes and maybe a new effect or two. This is per L6 by way of the forums they are active on, such as The Gear Page and Facebook. Third, the LT is the budget model. The full-fat Helix with scribble-strips solves those problems. Lastly, the new flagship line, STADIUM, is on the shelves. IDK if it solves your problem but it's a major step up from Helix and certainly worth looking into. Any new "features" requested by users in the various online forums (other than this one) are likely to be implemented there.

Have you performed all of the recommended optimization steps? Do that. If it doesn't fix the problem, then I don't know what to tell you. Contact Microsoft?

Overheating? If your Helix is on a carpet, put it on a hard surface. I use a 12"W x 24"L shelf, but any hard surface that gets it off the carpet will do. Ask the Service Center if they opened it up and blew out the dust.

IF NO THEN download and install the Catalyst ASIO driver. Line6 Catalyst Driver 2_5 v2.0.0.0

Do you perchance have the XLR and 1/4" outs set differently in GLOBAL SETTINGS>INS/OUTS?

Are you using it on a carpet? IF YES THEN put it on a hard surface. I use a shelf. If that doesn't work, as @silverhead said or, if there's no service center nearby, contact support. If it turns out to be a known issue they'll sometimes take care of you even out of warranty.

Reaper works fine in Win11. Start by following my advice about optimization. That might solve all of your problems, or at least uncover something. Out of curiosity, what processor are you running?

I've had mine for 10 yrs and never noticed that, so I just tested it. I don't hear it. Nor was there a difference when I had a Powercab switching from Multi to Digital. Not that it should matter, but what is the specific signal chain - post Helix devices - that you are using? My XLRs go to a Scarlett interface and studio monitors, my 1/4" to the Power Amp In of my Catalyst.

Check to see that you have the correct Catalyst ASIO driver installed. IF YES THEN: Step 1 - Go into device manager and check the Power Management settings for all of the USB Controllers. Turn OFF "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power". Step 2 - Go to this article and follow ALL of the instructions. Don't be thinking "blah blah yadda yadda". Just do it. Windows 11 PC Optimization for Recording | Sweetwater If you're still having problems, then: Go to the Korg website and download the most recent version of the Korg Drive Tools: Downloads | KORG USB-MIDI Driver | KORG (USA) Run the Uninstall tool. It will show all of the MIDI Port assignments. Delete all duplicates and be sure that the drivers you need are loaded under port 10. If your computer has installed the 25H2 update from Microsoft, then you MAY need to roll back to 24H2. Yes, Microsoft screwed up again, and rolling back is their recommendation until they fix the problem. If after rolling back, the drivers are still loaded above port 10, uninstall the Root Hubs (Device Manager), disconnect all your USB devices and RESTART the computer. If you lose your mouse/keyboard and have to manually power cycle, use RESTART after Windows boots. Run the Korg Uninstall tool and reconnect your USB devices starting with the most critical. You'll see which port they're assigned to as you reconnect them. This process should fix the problem. If not...

Here ya go!

I'll have a look and see if that can be done with OBS. I'm assuming you use Windows?

Why OBS? What, EXACTLY, are you trying to accomplish?

When weirdness happens on digital gear, perform a factory reset. Don't forget to back up your presets first!

I recently sold my PC212+. My reasoning had nothing to do with how it sounds. It sounds GREAT. At high volumes. I live in an apartment. On an upper floor. The PC212+ is big, and weighs 48 lbs. NBD when I was 25, but that was a long time ago. I rarely play out anymore, just the occasional jam with friends. My upper floor apartment is 100 yards from the parking lot. My Catalyst100 sounds better at the volumes that I can play at, is totally sufficient volume-wise for jams and small gigs and is MUCH easier to carry. G.A.S. for other stuff. I found someone who had G.A.S. for a PC212+ and has a sound-proofed studio. Good gear should be played!

HX Edit 3.82 is the latest version for use with the Helix 3.80 FW. Download it from the L6 website if you can't update from HX Edit. I forget, it's been out a long time.

Agreed.

You already specified that, which is why I didn't. NOTE: "set Input Level, Return Level and Output Level to INST in Global Settings " is also a bit confusing. You can only set the FX Loop IN/OUT Level (INST or LINE) in Global settings, you can't set the Input, Return and Output levels of the FX Loops separately. I know that you know that, and I'm not trying to be combative. :-) Sometimes this TECHNICAL WRITING thing is HARD! :-P Hopefully, OP is reading ALL of our posts....

Possible, but... Since Global FX Loop Input and Output levels cannot be set separately, that would require separate FX Loops. Being as we're talking about HX vs full Helix, there's only 8 Blocks and 2 FX Loops available, that would be a very wasteful way to construct a preset. A single FX Loop set to INST should not be a problem at UNITY/0db.

To clarify, set the levels in the FX Loop Block to 0db. That is UNITY, meaning that the signal is neither boosted nor cut. When setting up presets, many use the method of checking the output level before adding any effects, then bypassing the effect and rechecking the output level. This keeps the signal level hitting the amp at the same level as plugging straight into the amp.

All amps don't "clean up" the same. That phenomenon is a result of the interaction between the guitar's pickups and the amp's input circuitry. While the Helix amps are very well modeled, in the end they are not really tubes. All that said, my guitars, single coils to JBs to high output ceramics, all "clean up" just fine with the Helix amps I use. The INPUT circuitry of most REAL WORLD amps is 1MegOhm impedance. Certain FX placed between the guitar and an amp's input (see below) are lower than that and in order to get "authentic" sound from the modeled FX Helix uses analog circuitry to mimic that interaction with the pickups. First thing to do is to check GLOBAL SETTINGS>PREFERENCES>AUTO IN-Z. When set to ENABLED Helix uses that analog circuitry to mimic the interaction between your pickups and that type of effect, using the first ACTIVE effect in the signal chain as a reference. When set to FIRST it uses the FIRST effect, active OR bypassed. Since MOST of the FX in Helix are 1M input impedance, the ENABLED/AUTO settings will normally be fine. If you ALWAYS want your pickups to act like you're plugged straight into an amp (you don't use those FX), then on the INPUT BLOCK of each preset set the IN-Z to "1M Ohm". This overrides the GLOBAL IN-Z setting and is as close as Helix gets to that (plugged straight into an amp) behavior. There's a spreadsheet online somewhere that has all of the Helix FX impedance info, but I can't find it just now. Here's a partial list distilled from that SS. Thanks to @John Mark Painter on TGP. The post is from 2020, so you might want to do a search for the actual spreadsheet which was updated to v3.80: All Dynamics are 1M All Reverbs are 1M All Pitch are 1M All Filters are 1M Wah with Impedance Changes Weeper 90k Teardrop 90k UK 136k Delays with Impedance changes Analog Echo 230k Elephant Man 90k Analog w/Mod 90k MultiHead 22k Cosmos 10k Modulations with Impedance changes 70's Chorus 22k Analog Chorus 22k Courtesan 136 Vibe Rotary 90k Dual Phaser 230k U-Vibe 90k Distortion with Impedance Changes BIGHORN (Tested manually...check for yourself and confirm) 70k? Deranged Master 22-32k Colordrive 136k Triangle Fuzz 22k Fuzz Pi 22k Arbitrator 10k Facial Fuzz 22k Buzz Saw 230k Tychoctavia 230k Octave Fuzz 230k Jumbo Fuzz 90k Industrial Fuzz 10k Hedgehog 230k Scream 808 230k Scream 230k