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jon_bondy

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  1. I wish I could register the guitar, but the last 2 digits of the serial number have worn off. The guitar is on its way to an authorized repair shop in New Hampshire. Fingers crossed.
  2. I pulled the back plate off to expose the electronics, put a battery in the guitar, and started gently pulling and pushing wires around to see if I could find an intermittent connection. No joy. BUT I discovered that every 22 seconds, a relay clicking sound occurs in the electronics cavity, and then the guitar sound comes on for 1/2 second or so. So all of my previous observations about when the sound occurs are useless. The sound comes on every 22 seconds, and has nothing to do with switch positions. That was all coincidence. Why would there be a relay in there? And why would it trigger on for 1/2 second every 22 seconds?
  3. I have a fully functional JTV-89 (so I know how the JTV-89 should work), and just bought another, which is not working properly. Curiously, the headstock is reversed on the latter guitar (but the latter guitar has a trem, while the former has a hardtail). If I pull the battery, the guitar works fine off of the mag pickups. If I put the battery in, I get almost no sound out at all, on any of the 5 switch positions. Note that I've not activated the electronics by pushing down on the model control: I just insert the battery and insert the guitar cable. If I move the 5-way switch around, sometimes on two of the positions, sound comes through for about 1/2 second; but not always. If I try to activate the electronics, by pushing down on the model switch, again, sometimes I get about 1/2 second of sound going through. On a simpler guitar, I would imagine an intermittent connection somewhere. I attached the cables for Workbench HD, and the computer cannot see the guitar at all (no connection). This does not sound like a simple fix, although I am open to troubleshooting suggestions. What kind of repair/service options exist? Thanks! Jon
  4. My batteries last for weeks just sitting in the guitar. Make sure the guitar is not plugged in: plugging the guitar in switches the battery on and starts draining it.
  5. I followed the instructions, and it was there this time. It's been a few months: maybe the web site has been updated.
  6. I've seen that before. It will work if you get to it before the USB connector separates from the printed circuit board. Once the connector has separated, you will need another approach. I connect a USB cable directly to the PCB to supply power, but not data.
  7. I purchased a used Relay G10 Receiver, and the USB connector separated from the PCB fairly quickly. I re-wired it so that it can get power from a USB port (which I have on the power strip I use in my pedal board). If anyone has a Receiver that needs this repair, please get in touch. I can either walk you through it, or do it for you. Note that, while this solves the problem of how to power the Receiver, it does not fix the USB port, so you will not be able to install firmware updates any better than before the repair.
  8. After the USB connector on my Relay G10R failed, I cut a USB cable in half and soldered the power wires to the filter capacitor. I drilled a small hole in the case and used an overhand knot in the cable as a poor man's strain relief. About 1/2 hour and essentially no cost to me. Dead simple
  9. I figured it out. The web UI is horrible. The Windows file is there, you just have to dig for it
  10. I know that this is not the right place, but I cannot figure out a better place. There does not appear to be a forum for either software or web site problems or the Relay products. Line 6 wants me to upgrade the firmware in my Relay G10, but in order to do that, I need to install the latest Updater. When I try to download the Updater, I get a DMG file, which is useless on a Windows PC. I am never given a choice of whether I want an EXE or a DMG. How does one acquire the Updater 1.19 update on a Windows PC?
  11. I moved the low E string around a bit, and now the piezo is working. A little frightening that it might fail again, but I can play it for a week or two before I have to return it. Thanks for your help: I now have both the HD500 Edit and the Workbench running, which is very useful.
  12. I bought a used PodHD500 and am using that to power the Shuriken. That works fine ... except that the low E string does not work at all. Not on ANY of the presets. I opened the back up and re-seated the connector, but no joy. On a few presets (where the volume is huge) the low E can be barely heard as a low buzz. I realize that one can set the volume on each string, but the likelihood that the previous players of this guitar set the volume on the low E to zero on EVERY preset seems low. And I cannot check the presets because the guitar will not run the electronics when using USB and no battery. My sense is that the low E piezo sensor is bad, or is mis-wired. Nothing is obviously wrong, visually, on either end. Anything else I should try before returning the guitar to Guitar Center as defective?
  13. My new Shuriken arrived yesterday, with only one dead battery and no battery charger. GuitarCenter is working to ship the missing parts (battery and charger), but I would like to play the guitar now! I tried using the USB interface. The LED near the USB connector blinked green for a little while. The LED on the other end blinked green once, and then blinked red for a little while. The guitar only could play using the mag pickup. I've read here that the Shuriken can work with an external power source over the ethernet cable, but perhaps this is only when power is being supplied by a Helix or similar. Can anyone explain my options?
  14. How is the Shriken's neck compared to the other Variax necks? I like the idea of the technology, but I hear that the guitars are too heavy and the necks are too thick. It would be nice to have a table somewhere with the weights of the various models, along with neck thicknesses. I know I can move the electronics to another guitar, but I would prefer to avoid that. Thanks.
  15. Thanks. As I said, those features could be much more useful if the firmware in the amps were modified to allow assignment of drums and temp in a preset, and then control from the floorboard. Perhaps Line 6 will read this and agree. Meanwhile, I purchased a real looper. It is large and bulky, but it does what I need.
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