jon_bondy

@silverhead: excellent thinking outside the box! I will give it a try!

If you watch the live videos for Hotel California, you will see that he uses a double-neck guitar, with the 12 string capoed and the six string straight. No time to keep taking the capo off and putting it back on. I thought that the Variax would be the perfect solution, but it appears that this may not be the case.

I want to create a 12-string sound, only with a virtual capo at the 5th fret (for Hotel California). That means I need the Parallel Pitch tones to be 17 half tones higher than the real strings, not 12. I cannot see any way to alter the notes for the Parallel Pitch values: they are either on (12) or off (0). I tried to inspect the files that Workbench saves to disk, to see if I could trick Workbench into using the pitches I want, but I did not get far. Thoughts or comments? Jon

I wish I could register the guitar, but the last 2 digits of the serial number have worn off. The guitar is on its way to an authorized repair shop in New Hampshire. Fingers crossed.

I pulled the back plate off to expose the electronics, put a battery in the guitar, and started gently pulling and pushing wires around to see if I could find an intermittent connection. No joy. BUT I discovered that every 22 seconds, a relay clicking sound occurs in the electronics cavity, and then the guitar sound comes on for 1/2 second or so. So all of my previous observations about when the sound occurs are useless. The sound comes on every 22 seconds, and has nothing to do with switch positions. That was all coincidence. Why would there be a relay in there? And why would it trigger on for 1/2 second every 22 seconds?

I have a fully functional JTV-89 (so I know how the JTV-89 should work), and just bought another, which is not working properly. Curiously, the headstock is reversed on the latter guitar (but the latter guitar has a trem, while the former has a hardtail). If I pull the battery, the guitar works fine off of the mag pickups. If I put the battery in, I get almost no sound out at all, on any of the 5 switch positions. Note that I've not activated the electronics by pushing down on the model control: I just insert the battery and insert the guitar cable. If I move the 5-way switch around, sometimes on two of the positions, sound comes through for about 1/2 second; but not always. If I try to activate the electronics, by pushing down on the model switch, again, sometimes I get about 1/2 second of sound going through. On a simpler guitar, I would imagine an intermittent connection somewhere. I attached the cables for Workbench HD, and the computer cannot see the guitar at all (no connection). This does not sound like a simple fix, although I am open to troubleshooting suggestions. What kind of repair/service options exist? Thanks! Jon

My batteries last for weeks just sitting in the guitar. Make sure the guitar is not plugged in: plugging the guitar in switches the battery on and starts draining it.

I followed the instructions, and it was there this time. It's been a few months: maybe the web site has been updated.

I've seen that before. It will work if you get to it before the USB connector separates from the printed circuit board. Once the connector has separated, you will need another approach. I connect a USB cable directly to the PCB to supply power, but not data.

I purchased a used Relay G10 Receiver, and the USB connector separated from the PCB fairly quickly. I re-wired it so that it can get power from a USB port (which I have on the power strip I use in my pedal board). If anyone has a Receiver that needs this repair, please get in touch. I can either walk you through it, or do it for you. Note that, while this solves the problem of how to power the Receiver, it does not fix the USB port, so you will not be able to install firmware updates any better than before the repair.

After the USB connector on my Relay G10R failed, I cut a USB cable in half and soldered the power wires to the filter capacitor. I drilled a small hole in the case and used an overhand knot in the cable as a poor man's strain relief. About 1/2 hour and essentially no cost to me. Dead simple

I figured it out. The web UI is horrible. The Windows file is there, you just have to dig for it

I know that this is not the right place, but I cannot figure out a better place. There does not appear to be a forum for either software or web site problems or the Relay products. Line 6 wants me to upgrade the firmware in my Relay G10, but in order to do that, I need to install the latest Updater. When I try to download the Updater, I get a DMG file, which is useless on a Windows PC. I am never given a choice of whether I want an EXE or a DMG. How does one acquire the Updater 1.19 update on a Windows PC?

I moved the low E string around a bit, and now the piezo is working. A little frightening that it might fail again, but I can play it for a week or two before I have to return it. Thanks for your help: I now have both the HD500 Edit and the Workbench running, which is very useful.

I bought a used PodHD500 and am using that to power the Shuriken. That works fine ... except that the low E string does not work at all. Not on ANY of the presets. I opened the back up and re-seated the connector, but no joy. On a few presets (where the volume is huge) the low E can be barely heard as a low buzz. I realize that one can set the volume on each string, but the likelihood that the previous players of this guitar set the volume on the low E to zero on EVERY preset seems low. And I cannot check the presets because the guitar will not run the electronics when using USB and no battery. My sense is that the low E piezo sensor is bad, or is mis-wired. Nothing is obviously wrong, visually, on either end. Anything else I should try before returning the guitar to Guitar Center as defective?