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About jon_bondy

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    Just Startin'

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  1. I followed the instructions, and it was there this time. It's been a few months: maybe the web site has been updated.
  2. I've seen that before. It will work if you get to it before the USB connector separates from the printed circuit board. Once the connector has separated, you will need another approach. I connect a USB cable directly to the PCB to supply power, but not data.
  3. I purchased a used Relay G10 Receiver, and the USB connector separated from the PCB fairly quickly. I re-wired it so that it can get power from a USB port (which I have on the power strip I use in my pedal board). If anyone has a Receiver that needs this repair, please get in touch. I can either walk you through it, or do it for you. Note that, while this solves the problem of how to power the Receiver, it does not fix the USB port, so you will not be able to install firmware updates any better than before the repair.
  4. After the USB connector on my Relay G10R failed, I cut a USB cable in half and soldered the power wires to the filter capacitor. I drilled a small hole in the case and used an overhand knot in the cable as a poor man's strain relief. About 1/2 hour and essentially no cost to me. Dead simple
  5. I figured it out. The web UI is horrible. The Windows file is there, you just have to dig for it
  6. I know that this is not the right place, but I cannot figure out a better place. There does not appear to be a forum for either software or web site problems or the Relay products. Line 6 wants me to upgrade the firmware in my Relay G10, but in order to do that, I need to install the latest Updater. When I try to download the Updater, I get a DMG file, which is useless on a Windows PC. I am never given a choice of whether I want an EXE or a DMG. How does one acquire the Updater 1.19 update on a Windows PC?
  7. I moved the low E string around a bit, and now the piezo is working. A little frightening that it might fail again, but I can play it for a week or two before I have to return it. Thanks for your help: I now have both the HD500 Edit and the Workbench running, which is very useful.
  8. I bought a used PodHD500 and am using that to power the Shuriken. That works fine ... except that the low E string does not work at all. Not on ANY of the presets. I opened the back up and re-seated the connector, but no joy. On a few presets (where the volume is huge) the low E can be barely heard as a low buzz. I realize that one can set the volume on each string, but the likelihood that the previous players of this guitar set the volume on the low E to zero on EVERY preset seems low. And I cannot check the presets because the guitar will not run the electronics when using USB and no battery. My sense is that the low E piezo sensor is bad, or is mis-wired. Nothing is obviously wrong, visually, on either end. Anything else I should try before returning the guitar to Guitar Center as defective?
  9. My new Shuriken arrived yesterday, with only one dead battery and no battery charger. GuitarCenter is working to ship the missing parts (battery and charger), but I would like to play the guitar now! I tried using the USB interface. The LED near the USB connector blinked green for a little while. The LED on the other end blinked green once, and then blinked red for a little while. The guitar only could play using the mag pickup. I've read here that the Shuriken can work with an external power source over the ethernet cable, but perhaps this is only when power is being supplied by a Helix or similar. Can anyone explain my options?
  10. How is the Shriken's neck compared to the other Variax necks? I like the idea of the technology, but I hear that the guitars are too heavy and the necks are too thick. It would be nice to have a table somewhere with the weights of the various models, along with neck thicknesses. I know I can move the electronics to another guitar, but I would prefer to avoid that. Thanks.
  11. Thanks. As I said, those features could be much more useful if the firmware in the amps were modified to allow assignment of drums and temp in a preset, and then control from the floorboard. Perhaps Line 6 will read this and agree. Meanwhile, I purchased a real looper. It is large and bulky, but it does what I need.
  12. I just stumbled across the drum tracks and metronome features on my Spider V 60. It would be lovely if I could establish a different metronome pattern selectable by a preset. It would be convenient if I could use a preset to start a drum track. The drum tracks are nice, but I cannot figure out how to get them to run at different speeds: I tried using the Tap feature, but that did not seem to work. Are these features fully integrated into the preset system? If not, they are really only marginally useful.
  13. I have used my G10 (with my Spider V 60) for a few months with a variety of guitars (including guitars that have both mags and piezos). When I use my Relish Mary, the mags show up fine at the amp, but when I switch to piezos, all is silent. Relish claims that the piezo signal is split (coming out of the ring), but I can use a regular cable and hear the piezos just fine, so the piezo signal must be coming out of the tip. Anyone else encounter a similar problem? I tried to create a Support Ticket, but was unable to register my G10, because the web site would not accept the serial number from my G10. Frustrating.
  14. Perfect! Exactly what I was missing! Thanks so much!
  15. Thanks. There is nothing wrong with the Spider. I can see all of the amps on the Spider itself. I cannot see the amps in the PC software :)
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