SiWatts69

Firstly, the amber light continues to flash because there is no "internet" signal at the WAN port. Mine also flashes orange when in use so don't get worried about that. Even from watching your video, I can't see where you are going wrong. The only suggestion as to where it might be you going wrong would be to ensure you watch the front of the airport whilst you press the reset button from behind so you can see that it is a hard reset. The hard reset is essential. A soft reset also results in the amber light flashing quickly but only once you release. If you hold the reset button for longer, the light starts flashing whilst the button is still depressed. (hopefully that makes sense!) If you've assured yourself that it was indeed a hard reset, I don't see you do anything wrong with the remainder of the airport setup routine on your iPad. Are you running the latest firmware for your M20d?

Nah, the M20d is just another connected device. Realise you've been through the whole process several times but... Do a complete HARD reset of the airport express... It may be worth disconnecting your iPad from any other wireless network you have up and running whilst you do this. 1.Disconnect everything except the power from your Airport Express. Press and hold the reset button until you see the status light (LED) start to flash amber rapidly, which should occur after about five seconds. 2.Release the button and the device will reset. 3.Wait about a minute for the base station to finish restarting, then in Settings > WiFi on your iPad you should see an entry for "SET UP NEW AIRPORT BASE STATION" with "Airport Express xxxxxx" beneath where xxxxxx is a sequence of 6 letters and numbers. 4.Once the iPad has initially connected, in AirPort Setup, choose Create a New Network (Recommended) 5.Name your network (the name you enter is irrelevant) 6.Name the device (again name is irrelevant) 7.Create and enter a password. This password is simply the password for managing your Airport Express and connecting to it with your iPad and has nothing to do with the stagescape connection directly. 8.Continue without Internet connection (plug no cables in) 9.Wait til setup completes and click "Done" 10.Plug Network cable to LAN port on back of Airport Express (LAN port has the arrows icon) 11.Plug other end of network cable into USB to Ethernet adapter 12.Power up your M20d and when fully booted plug USB to Ethernet adapter in to the USB port. 13.On M20d screen, press the "i" icon in top right corner of screen and select the "Wi-Fi" button on the left. 14.You should see green text stating "Status: Ethernet connected" 15.On iPad, launch the Stagescape remote app 16.Press green "CONNECT" button in app and you should see a "Choose a StageScape" screen. 17.Press the offered entry and you should get an "Enter StageScape M20d PIN" screen. Enter the pin displayed on the M20d screen. 18.After a few seconds, your M20d WiFi screen should now display "1 Remote Connected" and the iPad should now show your SETUP screen.

Which port have you plugged the cat5 cable into on the airport express? It needs plugging into the 2nd port (closest to the USB socket). It took me a couple of attempts to get it right, but since then it has been ultra stable. Your M20d is a wired device on the wireless network created using the iPad wifi setup utility. There should be no connection to the WAN port (the one with the circular icon adjacent to the power socket).

Might sound a daft question, but are you plugging into the correct RJ45 socket on the back of the airport express? Cable needs to go into the LAN port (icon looks like a pair of arrows) NOT the WLAN port (circular icon).On model A1392, it is the RIGHT HAND port adjacent to the USB port.

Sorry, edited my post as I'd stated 13-14 instead of 13-16

Pretty much all the production quality digital desks now have some form of digital snake system, whether it be Yamaha, A&H, Studiocraft. The Behringer is simply a more affordable "copy" as is their way. As you say though, the concept of digitally converting at the stage box and building the mic pre's into the stagebox too then transmitting down a single cat5 "dSnake" cable is very appealing. But we're talking top flight gear for touring companies, not gigging band gear which is where the M20 is aimed fair and square. As is often the case, manufacturers research a target market and make their equipment accordingly. For the money the M20 costs, I firmly believe we get a hell of a lot of bang for our bucks!

Not that I want to put a dampener on anything, but I'd imagine the ruggedness of optical links (and particularly the cables) to be less than ideal for a "live touring" situation such as yours where the cabling isn't installed. As don says, if you're willing to gorego the benefits of L6Link, just run out a standard 18/6 multicore or, as you've considered, use the Behringer S16 (x2) Out of interest, what is the distance you need to accomplish for the first run?

Hi gapchurch... The kind of power cycle I'm talking about can be split second. Not long enough for the whole speaker to obviously power down but possibly long enough for the digital processor to drop out. It could equally well be the power supply in the speaker as the main wall feed.

Just intrigued... The main point of the M20d it is an "on stage" mixer, aimed at bands who do their own sound. If they do have a sound guy, the commonest control method is the iPad app which has all the controls of the M20d EXCEPT the two hardware mute buttons (mute mics / mute all). Thus, with the iPad and WiFi there's no real need for a two way (sends and returns) snake. I could understand your desire for a snake to get the mic/line signals to the M20d if you were positioning the M20 nearer to the first speaker to alleviate the 50ft limit, and I could understand you wanting an L6Link compatible snake if the desk were on stage and the first speaker were more than 50ft away, but I'm struggling with the need for sending the mics/lines to the M20 and then returning the main outs back to stage. I might be missing something though so forgive my ineptitude!

You've two connection options: Simple but less reliable: Single USB WiFI dongle/stick. There is a *very* limited selection which are compatible and most seem quite difficult to source in Europe. USB wifi dongle plugs directly into USB port on M20d OR you can run a USB extension cable to lift the dongle clear of interference sources near the desk. More reliable but involves more components: Apple USB to Ethernet adapter Cat5e network cable WiFi router When deciding to go down this route, look for a router with dual band (2.4 or 5GHz) capability. Many of us have done this and get far more stable wifi connections between the M20d and iPad. Router also gives greater signal strength, typically increasing the "range" and helping to prevent interference. Recommended routers are Apple's Airport Express (switchable) and I believe there is a Belkin one which many have successfully used, BUT almost any WiFi router should do the trick. The Apple USB to Ethernet adapater is critical though as it is the only one which is compatible with the M20d

Have you checked power stability? 5-10 seconds sounds appropriate for a power supply cycling. If that power supply cycle knocks out the first of your L cabs, the whole L6Link chain is disrupted. If it is coming back on it doesn't suggest a damaged L6Link XLR input/output to me since the signal would drop and not get picked up again unless you went and jiggled the connections. Check your power supply.

Regarding a digital snake, I'd not waste your money. I'd guess you *could* use one if you are going to remotely locate the M20, closer to the first of your speakers (thus avoiding the 50ft limit) but whatever, you can't feed the L6Link into or through a digital snake. You could run all your mics and inputs into one digi snake box, along the run and back out of a second digi snake box before feeding in to the M20d but it seems an awfully expensive route to take. Even the entry level digisnake box (the S16 for the X32) is more expensive than a plain L2m and you need two, plus the interconnect cable. Likely upwards of £1.5k (approx. $2k) though behringer gear may be cheaper than I think over the other side of the pond). For the price of an L2m you could have a first run of 100ft just by hiding that L2m away and setting its gain all the way down. It would enumerate the digital signal enabling it to be fed on at full strength for the second run of 50ft. The M20d can "manage" up to 18 L6Linked cabinets. What might be interesting would be for Line6 to consider making a standalone enumerator that could eliminate this problem.

The 50ft "limit" is one which Line6 has set and is likely one within which they can assure us that the digital signals being carried can be guaranteed to arrive uncompromised. The general concensus is that it is a nominal limit and that in many situations, a quality, clean cable run in excess of 50ft would perform perfectly adequately. What I would say, however, is that when attempting to run out beyond the recommendations, use the best quality aes/ebu cable you can acquire and top notch connectors to minimise your risks. Then test before putting yourself in a live situation. DO NOT connect cables together to make longer runs. I've never had need of a run in excess of 50ft so haven't tested.

All channels 1-12 and 13-16 are MONO channels. What's clever is that the M20 can stereo pair *any* adjacent pair, eg 1+2 or 13+14 etc We run 13+14 as a stereo keyboard pair and 9+10 as stereo overheads for drums. By pairing, the M20d applies whatever is applied to the first channel in the pair identically to the second, the only difference being PAN

Use option 2. Feed subs from main out L + R. Feed L3t's from L6Link. No need for a LPF, as it will (should) be present in your subs anyway.

Don, what are the specifics of the universal vs vocal differences that lead to your recommendation?

A good spec powered sub will typically have 2 inputs, each with a passthru/hpf output. So you run your main signals to the single sub first, L into one input and R into the second then each output to the correct L3. The sub sets the crossover according to what it wants. If your sub only has one input, you can only run in mono IF you want the sub to provide crossover. To be honest, I'm not sure why running just one through the sub would be so bad. Even if the bottom end is stripped out of one L3's signal, assuming the sub is on that side of stage, the extra bass performance from the straight fed L3 is hardly going to off balance your performance area. We're talking about sub harmonic frequencies which you don't specifically "hear"

In what sense are you wanting to match up some speakers with your L3T? To be honest, very few published metrics from suppliers/manufacturers can be used to directly compare speaker A to speaker B except when they are from the same manufacturer. Even then, RMS and Peak power have little real world meaning, being mostly arbitrary figures. SPL is about as close to a comparison as you could hope to get but even then, as mentioned in a recent post, it's not as easy as saying manufacturer A quotes 130db and manufacturer B quotes 131db as the figure depends upon how it was measured. The only way to really match speakers is to A/B test them with all factors aside from the speaker equal, ie take a music source and set the input gain of both speakers to the 0db mark and run the source into both.

Likewise we only run 4 mics for drums; XY stereo pair of Rode NT5's (and using don boomers recently uploaded preset which is incidentally awesome!) then a D112 for kick and an SM57 for snare. Did a multi band gig last night with 4 thrash metal bands. Mic'd their kit (they all shared the same basic kit) and it sounded awesome. I've a small Yamaha analogue mixer and would also consider running either mics for backing vox or drums in for a submix then feed the stereo outputs from the Yamaha into 2 channels of the M20. I'd assume that you could run that submix in to 13/14 or 15/16 though if you want to add full FX it'd be better run into two of the mic pres.

Refer to section p.3 of your manual. By default, the M20d will use channel one of your created WiFi network... but you can change the channel it broadcasts on... This is the most important step. A USB Wi-Fi device must be plugged into the M20d’s USB port to enable the StageScape Remote app to connect with the M20d. System Settings 9•3 2. Customize the Unit Name (optional) The Unit Name is the name the M20d broadcasts as a network name, also referred to as a network SSID. By default, the M20d will set its Unit Name to “StageScapeM20dâ€. You can edit the Unit Name by tapping the name field and entering new text. When entering text for the SSID, some alphanumeric characters are disabled. 3. Select a Wiireless Channel (if Standalone is selected) Select a Wi-Fi Channel from the Wireless Channel dropdown menu. 4. Select a Wi-Fi Network (if With an existing Wi-Fi Network is selected) Select a local Wi-Fi Network if you’d like to join one. Tap the Network field and a window will open to enable you to select a network and enter your password. 5. Security PIN Make a note of the four-digit Security PIN. The StageScape Remote app requires you to enter these digits when connecting to your M20d. Note: The M20d automatically generates the four-digit Security PIN specific to your device. The PIN cannot be customized. Now you’re ready to configure Wi-Fi settings on your iPad®. ================================================================================================== Edited after re-reading your post... If you're using a dongle, you should ideally be using standalone mode AFAIK Using an existing network is where you are in a regular venue, the wireless network already existing and you're using it as a carrier for your M20d comms. In standalone mode, the dongle and iPad connect directly, whereas in existing mode the connection occurs via the network's router. So, in existing mode, the channel is set by the router NOT by your M20d. If that existing network is already on channel 1, that'll be where it connects. If the network broadcasts on channel 6, it'll be channel 6 etc. In standalone, the M20d is the master in the network whereas in an existing network setup, the M20 is a slave

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, if using M20d with L6Link interconnects, leave the speaker input gains set at the 12 o'clock notch and take the mains above 0.

It's a war you can't win. No matter how loud you pump your rig, an element of the DJ's output is going to bleed through into your listening space and likewise yours into his. People trying to listen to you will complain that you're not loud enough because they can still hear the DJ and his audience will complain because they can still hear you. Think of indoor arena gigs, with stacks shoving out 25-30KW and everyone still hears the tosser's mobile phone go off. The ONLY solution is to agree terms with the opposition before you both start. Talk to the DJ, ask what he's been told to do and if he's not expecting to cease while you're playing, take it up with the bar owner/manager. Playing SPL tennis in a car park is not something to get involved with, you'll blow your rig long before you "out volume" your opposition.

Sorry, I assumed as you'd mentioned Thomann and then B-stock in a separate post that you'd bought a b-stock one from Thomann. Forgive me... :-)

Get your Samsung dongle higher up (use a USB extension cable if necessary Then position your XD receivers quite some distance away from the dongle. Your problem lies in that the dongles have a far weaker signal than a router would have AND it is sharing the 2.4GHz frequency band with your radio mics.

In your DAW, find the "normalize" option.