SiWatts69

I've removed loads from the default icons/presets list but if I recall correctly, you simply press and hold the preset in that list and you get a small context menu up with "Mark as Favorite" and "Remove from Gallery" as options. Mark as favourite adds a small star icon to the preset icon, whereas Remove simply removes it from the strip.

Further to Digital-sound's comments; I've done this for rehearsals where people are missing. SD card with RAW WAV files in a folder. You need one WAV per channel (2 if it's a stereo pair) The WAV filename must be [channel_number]_[channel name].wav AND there must be a channel set up on the M20d for it. Example: "7_Snare.wav" "1_Dave Vox.wav" etc [channel name] needs to match the assigned name for the channel on the M20d Go to Record then select the session on the SD card. Even if you've got 12 channels set up on the M20 but only (for example) 3 wav files, the wav's will be played back through the channel numbers defined in the wav filenames. So for my two named files above, channels 1 and 7. All the other channels will be available to use "live" Note however, that you cannot simultaneously playback from the SD card and record to it.

Put mute mics button ON. press individual channel mutes to unmute any channels you want open and mute any you want closed Turn mute mics button OFF et voila, the same set of inputs will be muted once more when mute mics is pressed. If you unmute a channel whilst mute mics is ON, it will no longer be muted with the mute mics button and you need to mute/unmute manually.

Ordered my XD-V75TR today :-) I guess I should have checked first before asking... the TBP12 TA4 connector wiring schematic is in the Pilots Guide! oops...

Good to know scotterp. I only used a micro the once, it wasn't one I bought but it crashed out. I'm all for reducing risks of anything going wrong, top quality cabling and connectors, appropriate for the task and recognisable brand SD cards etc. Obviously I've jumped to an incorrect conclusion about miroSD cards, so please accept my apology. YMMV.

I don't think it is the adapter itself. Most of these adapters are simple connect a to a, b to b size only adapters. I'm pretty certain it was the card itself. BUT quite why a class10 micro sd card wouldn't work and what the differences are between micro and full size sd I don't know. When I'm buying SD cards, I won't buy the cheapo unknown brands, sticking to Samsung and Sandisk.

But don't try using a class10 MicroSD card in an adapter. I recently did PA for a four band evening and the guy who'd booked the hire turned up with a MicroSD card (albeit class 10). It recorded fine for the first and second bands' sets but the third band had one extra channel in use and it fell over about 5 minutes in.

Thanks both of you. Yes, the XLR-M out on the B29L is the equivalent of the output o a standard mic. It's still mic level though is switchable to output line level if required. The B29L itself merely provides bias/phantom voltage to the two micromics via their TA3 connectors and option to adjust the relative volume of each mic. I'd be making a cable up myself... can't remember the last time I bought a pre-made cable! The WA310 pinout is just the ticket. Thanks case67.

I'm currently running an AKG perception wireless system but am very close to a switch to a Line 6 rig. Two questions: I'm a sax player, running dual clip on mics through an AKG B29L (2 micro mics into 1 standard XLR M output mini mixer and phantom power beltpack) Would I be better served by the Relay G90 or the XD-V75TR? and why? Secondly, my B29L has a single XLR-M 3pin output. What would be the wiring schematic for a conversion cable for 3 pin XLR to the TA4F needed to plug into the TBP12? The transmitter doesn't need to be able to transmit phantom power on the line. I did ask the schematic query a few months ago but the original thread and response appears to have disappeared.

I'll not say to expect this kind of feature in v2 as I'm not a line6 tech but like you I agree that it would be an appropriate (and not expensive) useful addition to the arsenal but I'd guess that there's loads of little features that could have been added but which weren't simply for budgetary reasons. The unit ultimately had to be affordable for bands. Stick too many bells and whistles on it which only a small percentage of your users might want and you push the unit out of the band budget land and into no mans land. There is nothing to prevent you from running a (powered) USB hub between the M20d and the Ethernet adapter. It's going to get a little messy with all the extra wires but is does work. Digital_sound is the one who mentions the Moshi USB to Ethernet adapter as a third party one that works and it has a USB port built in so you get not only the Ethernet connection you need for the router, but you don't sacrifice your USB port in the process. Personally, I just bought two Samsung 32GB SDHC class 10 cards and record directly to them. The two combined give me space to record up to 6 hours. Sorry, can't offer you any enlightenment on this as I use SD cards.

Great stuff :-) Pleased it went well for you!

Hi geppert... it's the chipset in the USB to Ethernet adapter that is specific. The router itself should be fine.

Apple USB to Ethernet is the ONLY compatible adapter and the connection is chipset specific. You say yours is a third party one. I know someone has mentioned finding that the Moshi adapter works too. I tried a third party one (Thermaltake) and it doesn't work.

Ditto. Though I have a specific set of cables made up for this: 3/8" stereo to 2x 1/4" mono TS jacks 2 channel DI box 2 channel multicore cable with XLR F on the DI box end to 1/4" TRS jack at the M20d end and I then input into 13/14 as a stereo pair. For this kind of application, you are unlikely to need the full FX processing capabilities of 1-12 (your source signal is likely already highly processed) so leaving 1-12 free for mics etc seemed preferable to me. I us the same 2 channel multicore cable and DI box for our keyboard player, the 3/4" stereo to 2x 1/4" mono cable being one I just "have" in my bag of tricks for when I'm hiring out and people want to connect up other sound sources like laptops etc.

I'd second the yes to this too. Common sense dictates that we take a backup of our unit before sending it away for service/repair so whether the unit that arrives back is our actual unit is irrelevant... it's just hardware. If it's a unit that's been refurbished it's possibly a big bonus since it is likely to have been more fully assessed and dealt with than one where just a single issue has been resolved.

And I guess we now see one of the benefits of buying from a local retailer over buying based on the cheapest price from an online retailer hundreds of miles away. When things go wrong, our contract is with the immediate supplier (the retailer) not with a manufacturer, so the goods have to go back to the retailer from whence they came. I've bought plenty from Thomann, but, to date, I've not bought *anything* from them which has the potential for needing to be returned for service or repair. My Line6 rig came from a retailer about an hour away from me, so if it goes wrong I can go lean on them face to face! Obviously, I understand we don't all have the luxury of a retailer in close proximity so I do understand that buying local isn't necessarily feasible for some.

hi eukieb This is somewhat tainted by how we use it. For our setup, the M20d sits on the opposite side of stage to me, where our guitarist is. He does much of the mixing pre-gig and only a little during a gig. I, meanwhile am on the opposite side of the stage, with the iPad. He is responsible for unmuting/muting etc at the start and end of sets whereas I'm there to start and stop recordings and adjust our singers' monitors if need arises (I'm a sax player so often have passages where I'm neither playing nor singing). Midway through our first set is a song where I don't play or sing anything so I scurry off stage out to the back of the room and do any quick adjustments that might be necessary. The biggest room I scurried to the back of so far has been a 300 capacity room, about 40m long. My express has never yet (that I know of) dropped out. From what I know, it is unlikely that people will create difficulties. To my knowledge, the bigger issue is wifi noise, generated by the collection of wifi enabled devices in your vicinity. Mine lives beneath the mixer in a gator case that the mixer sits on top of. The desk is about 1m off the ground, so the express isn't far from there. A longer network cable in my bag of tricks means I can always move the router somewhere else if I have problems when initially connecting. I've had zero issues with the express and given its size it's less to lug around, fits neatly in my mics flightcase and is easier to position. Extreme does look like it ought to provide a more stable connection, but that single pro (for an issue I've not experienced) wouldn't be enough to convince me to swap from my express.

Mmm... possible interesting experiment then... Hook the transmitter up to the M20d as send and feed a monitor signal down to be received, stick a mono earpiece in and... digital "in ear" ;-)

I guess it depends how big the range you're operating is. I'm using the Airport Express (2nd Gen) and haven't had any issues though the venues we've used it in have so far been pretty modest. The one a number appear to mention frequently is the belkin n600(?) which allows switching off the 2.4GHz band (my express doesn't) leaving just the 5GHz running meaning less interference problems.

Surreal that this question has been asked so recently... Don't ask why at this stage ;-) , but would it be feasible to run either a G30 or G50 receiver from a PP3 (9v) battery?

From what I recall of similar issues, there is a small plastic bit inside the XLR sleeve ring on the M20d input that sometimes gets jammed. litesnsirens mentioned it some time back and, if I recall correctly, the solution was to jiggle the tab to free it up. If that resolves the issue short term, it might then be worth getting the unit sent away for testing. I believe it has something to do with some XLR plugs being slightly thicker than standard and it jamming the pin but I haven't had it so am commenting purely from memory.

Hi stormstudios... I guess where we have crossed wires is that we have (perhaps naturally) assumed you have the 2nd generation Airport Express when what you have is a first generation one which Apple no longer manufacture and which hasn't been manufactured for longer than the M20d has been around. I've no experience with that unit so cannot say that my sequence list is right for it. Far from not being friendly, I think it is easy to see written comments as personal criticism when they are not intended as such. In my experience, the vast majority of people only want to help. So, cut us a bit of slack ;-) Glad you got it working in the end!

I posted this to another thread about the airport express. If you've got the M20d as far as recognising it has an Ethernet connection... Realise you've been through the whole process several times but... Do a complete HARD reset of the airport express... It may be worth disconnecting your iPad from any other wireless network you have up and running whilst you do this. 1.Disconnect everything except the power from your Airport Express. Press and hold the reset button until you see the status light (LED) start to flash amber rapidly, which should occur after about five seconds. 2.Release the button and the device will reset. 3.Wait about a minute for the base station to finish restarting, then in Settings > WiFi on your iPad you should see an entry for "SET UP NEW AIRPORT BASE STATION" with "Airport Express xxxxxx" beneath where xxxxxx is a sequence of 6 letters and numbers. 4.Once the iPad has initially connected, in AirPort Setup, choose Create a New Network (Recommended) 5.Name your network (the name you enter is irrelevant) 6.Name the device (again name is irrelevant) 7.Create and enter a password. This password is simply the password for managing your Airport Express and connecting to it with your iPad and has nothing to do with the stagescape connection directly. 8.Continue without Internet connection (plug no cables in) 9.Wait til setup completes and click "Done" 10.Plug Network cable to LAN port on back of Airport Express (LAN port has the arrows icon) 11.Plug other end of network cable into USB to Ethernet adapter 12.Power up your M20d and when fully booted plug USB to Ethernet adapter in to the USB port. 13.On M20d screen, press the "i" icon in top right corner of screen and select the "Wi-Fi" button on the left. 14.You should see green text stating "Status: Ethernet connected" 15.On iPad, launch the Stagescape remote app 16.Press green "CONNECT" button in app and you should see a "Choose a StageScape" screen. 17.Press the offered entry and you should get an "Enter StageScape M20d PIN" screen. Enter the pin displayed on the M20d screen. 18.After a few seconds, your M20d WiFi screen should now display "1 Remote Connected" and the iPad should now show your SETUP screen.

Sort of what I said... if it's indoors, the subs are not so important, but outdoors, it's bass frequencies which roll off first and thus need a little more help than the upper frequencies. Don't fall into the trap of believing that I know what I'm talking about ;-) If it were me though, I'd get two more subs first, use my L2m's as FOH alongside my L3m's and run other powered speakers out for monitors.

From what I'd summise about building the stack, the norm would be to boost bass before tops but I suppose it depends whether you're using the bigger rig indoors or outdoors. 1x L3m 2x L3m 2x L3m + 1x L3s 2x L3m + 2x L3s Once we look at stacks in excess of the above, my first step would be to add 2 additional L3s, then finally the 2 extra L3m's 2x L3m + 4x L3s 4x L3m + 4x L3s The system will handle it however you add them in though. L6Link from your M20d can support up to 18 L3 and L2 cabinets and I guess indoors, the extra bass punch is less important than the top, but outdoors, it's the bass that dissipates first. What you have to remember is that a single L3s in the rig means that the L3m's have a reduced bass response as they are not fed the bass frequencies. Adding too many L3m's without additional bass could make your whole sound rather "toppy". Perhaps consider 1 additional L3s to balance the extra 2 L3m's.