pianoguyy

I am not going to stop anyone from buying something, nor am I going to suggest a way to cheat a company out of money, however.... As a musician, having multiple of gear for backup is a bit of a necessity. So, if you were to buy a used one, the owner would need to transfer rights to you. I only mention this because... the rights to the model packs can only be transfered one time. You don't want to end up with duplicate packs on your account. Or needing to control someone else's account so prevent the need to transfer packs.

Question: Did you lose them, or do you think you lost them? Example: offline mode could result in the appearance of loss of presets. When in reality, they aren't lost because you didn't send them. Of course, if you don't know how about sending and receiving, it is also possible that you didn't actually have them in the first place. Tell us what you were doing when they disappeared.

Worth mentioning - you don't need to install the latest if you do not want to. The old firmware versions are there if you want to reinstall what you already have. But, yes, as previously stated, you only need to install one firmware. Everything that comes before it is included.

I can't honestly answer that with any authority. But to make a really simple comparison... think of them like buying an album. You can go buy KISS Alive!, and no matter what format you buy it on, it is the same album. But you can't play your 8-track in your cassette deck. And your MP3 files aren't even something you touch, let alone play on a record player. Some people claim they can hear the difference between old scratchy vinyl and a cd or a lossless wave file. Sometimes you buy a CD and they say "digitally remastered". And that is what you are dealing with here. No matter what the answer is (new/old/rerecorded/reformatted), they just aren't compatible with other devices. *please note: the 8-track of KISS Alive! is actually different. They swapped up a few tracks because of the time constraints. Also, cassette is the only format I don't own for that album.

As to the rest.... How you get a 'good' tone is up to you and requires trial and error. But at least now you know you can't plug a powered signal into your Pod.

80% is unnecessary... until it isn't. The reason studios have everything is because of the large masses of everything that comes through the system. Example, I prefer a Les Paul over a Stratocaster. But what if a studio only stocked a Stratocaster - I'd be lost. So, instead, they keep both on hand.

I am going to assume you bought it used. If not, return it. Either way, you need to find someone (perhaps a local musician or a store) that has one of these units to try out a matching power supply and unit. It could be the port or the wire. From what you described, I doubt it would be something else. See if the wire does it on another unit. See if the unit does it with another wire. It is really commonsense kind of stuff.

I can't answer Apple questions. But I wanted to give you a heads up.... When in Offline Mode, if you plug in your Pod you will 'lose' your presets. But don't panic, they aren't lost. At least, not if you don't hit the send buttons. And they can be resurrected with by hitting the receive button. Unless I have that backwards and it is "avoid receive/rescue send". But the easiest thing to do is close simply EDIT.

The 2nd picture is easy - that is what we call 4CM (four cable method). it is using a speaker, it is not going into a daw. It uses the line levels for the pod, not the powered signal. 4cm allows you to do a "mix and match" with the pre and post of the amp with the pre and post of the Pod. We can go more in depth about 4cm if you need it, but it has already been written at length if you'd like to search first. The 1st one is a little more advanced. It is using a 2nd device that is similar to the L6 stuff, in the sense that it has modeling built in. I mean, it isn't good as the L6 stuff, but it also does accept a powered source and sends out line level and digital. In this instance, you would be able to go into the DAW and get your amplifier tone. But it is an $800 device. Which is almost double the price of the Pod (and half a Helix). In this particular diagram, the speaker has no personality which allows the Torpedo to provide cabinet modeling. The Torpedo is accepting the powered source from the amplifier, allowing you to get tone from the head. And then, I assume the L6 product is just there for fx. Why someone would use an L6 if they were planning on using an Achon amp and a Torpedo cabinet model... beats me. But, I guess L6 needed to have a diagram of 'what if'. But, yes, that is your solution if that is what you are looking for.

But that makes sense, because you are using the newest Logix. Had you not updated that, there wouldn't be an issue with the other older gear.

1. no. But you can reverse that - put the processor into the amp's loop chain. Of course, that isn't going to help with digital recording. 2. no. 3. yes 4. yes. If I understood that correctly. 5. yes. In this instance, the general rule is "twist the knobs until it sounds good. When it sounds good. Stop twisting knobs." But that will require analog recording (microphone on the cabinet). You cannot get digital recording from physical amps.

Not to hijack the thread.... I recently bought out a... I won't call it a shop. It was more like an amateur/hobbyist garage. I am going through all of these tools. He's got this specialty item and that specialty item. StewMac this, JB Tools that, and so much other. But I am sitting looking at this 1/4 ounce jar of graphite that sells for $20 and wondering why he needs that instead of 4 ounce jar that sells for $10 but doesn't have the "designed for guitar" label on it. And any of those lemon oils selling for for $10 an ounce when you get a 10 ounce bottle of Howards for $10. The point is - You don't need to go buy something specific like an FRFR when you have options.

Everything you are saying is correct... other than plugging into the out. It is an out not an in. Unless I am having a brain fart and the out is an in and in an out. For the most part, 4cm is for when you want to use you amp's tone, not just the amp's power. You sound like you don't want to use the amp's tone, just the power. Stay away from the four cable method. The one thing you may be overlooking.... When you are using [not a pa], how good is your tone going to be anyhow. So, to me, you can skimp a little with how precise you need to be. But, at the same time, there are options that can be used in both situations - such as turning your chosen sound source for small gigs into your own monitor for larger gigs. In which case, you wouldn't want to skimp. For example, I use the JBL EON. It can go on the floor facing away from the crowd. It can go on a stick and face the crowd. Sometimes it is my monitor at the front of the stage, sometimes it is my monitor at the front of the stage near the microphone, sometimes it is my monitor back by the keyboards where I might not hear the front monitors but don't need yet another PA monitor because I am only playing a couple songs back in the corner. Hell, for that matter, sometimes it is just my keyboard amp, lol. I think sometimes people put too much thought into it. Or they think they need [specialty item] when they just need [item]. I don't know where you live. But Craigslist has plenty of used gear. Plenty of options are available without breaking the bank.

Depends on what you mean 'open' the files. I am sure you don't mean trying to double click a file. Beyond that, I don't own the device to know specifics.

HA Most people talk about the large editor on a small screen. The only way to change the size of the editor is to change the resolution of your screen... which isn't ideal.

register - yes. but that doesn't get you a warranty or anything like that. Also, sometimes you can't register a used product until the original owner removes it from their account. I believe if you open a support ticket, they can expedite the matter.

If all other input and output and fx variables have been investigated.... I would try moving the device... just the one device... into another room using another outlet on another circuit. Away from all air conditioners, refrigerators, cell phones, watches... To me, the cycle is constant. Something that may occur from interference.

Which I think is fine in the standard 'tech' industries. But MI tech moves much slower than the rest of the world, putting out products every decade instead of every year. I wouldn't expect you to still be giving us new amp models and 'bug' fixes, but drivers to be able to communicate should be continued.

That is a grounding issue. And it could very possibly be "the place i live at has quite an old electrical installation". It can sometimes be cured by simply plugging one unit into a different outlet. I don't know enough about UK/EU/Spain electricity to know, but I am going to assume that different volts would cause a different issue, not a grounding issue.

Without hijacking the thread with a "polarizing" issue... Logic vs trickery aren't always separate issues. For example: Have you ever considered killing your mother? The correct answer is yes. For no reason other than... by me asking the question, you have therefore considered it. It is the Pandora's Box scenario, once you open it, it can never be closed. This is no different than the questions I stated before. By asking the questions I mentioned, I am therefore considering it. It runs through the mind. Even if the answer is negative, I have considered it. Followed by the slippery slope... adding a little bit until it becomes accepted, then adding a little bit more and more, until eventually you have exactly what you wanted from the beginning but would never have gotten all at once. They are forms of trickery.

That can't be a real question. LOL. This question would be better asked in the Helix section. Anyone who dropped the 500 isn't going to be reading the 500 posts.

I am not an Apple user, so I don't really keep up. But I believe that they determined it is an an Apple issue... because Apple doesn't play nice and forces companies to submit to their wishes instead of allowing a free market society. I think the only recourse you have is to use generic drivers. But, again, I am not an Apple user. That could be 10 year old information for all know.

Don't be so sure about that. I often have guys rubbing against me saying things like "try it, you may like it" and "how is a man's mouth different than a woman's". But that is a separate issue. I am assuming he is talking about the rainbow banner around the logo.

All of the suggestions still work. Or, at least, the correct suggestions still work. Some of them were dead wrong 5 years ago, they didn't work then and won't work now. The correct ones work just as much today as they did then. But you having issues with compatibility between old and new devices is a separate issue, and it is unrelated to anything previously posted.

The typical solution is: Switch the signal path on the computer from incoming to outgoing. *don't ask me how to do it, that isn't the way I use my machine. I just know that in your control panel, you reverse the flow.