dalto

How are you changing patches? It can be slow if you do it from the app over BT.

Make sure the fx loop block in the software is "on". It should be connected guitar->firehawk->pedal board->firehawk->amp in the simplest scenario.

I don't know of a way to turn off the pedals but I think you could drop the whole pedal board by turning off the fx loop

I thought it was only the earlier L3's which needed updating?

Have you found that switching patches via bluetooth is fast enough to be used while performing? It always seemed to me like there was a lag while it was transmitting from the device to the Firehawk.

I don't have a Firehawk anymore but I recently picked up an L2t for use with the Helix and it is fantastic. I have mine on a small stand so it is at roughly ear level when I am sitting down. Just put it in reference mode when you are using your Firehawk with it.

Bluetooth updates are really painful because it is hard to keep a BT connection alive for that long. As silverhead stated, that error means it isn't seeing your device. Make sure that BT is turned on in both the Firehawk and your mobile device. If that doesn't work remove the firehawk from your mobile device and re-pair.

Congrats! I didn't have the courage to go all the way to the l3t. Those suckers are tall. Wait, what? Are you serious?

It should tell you what to do at the end of the update. For the rack it should be this, from the release notes: HELIX RACK ONLY: While holding knobs 5 and 6 below the screen, turn on Helix Rack. Wait for the message “Will reset Globals and restore stock Presets, Setlists and IRs…†to appear and let go.

I thought I would follow-up and let everyone know how it turned out. I started out by grabbing a pair of 8" studio monitors that were on the used rack at my local store. I felt like something was missing so I did some A/B testing against an inexpensive modeling amp I had lying around. The monitors sounded better than the amp but it I preferred the amp more. I don't think I have the right words to describe it but it was like the difference between hearing the guitar through an amp and hearing a recording of the guitar through a speaker. The monitors were just too refined, especially on the lower end. I decided to try an l2t to see how that would compare and then did the same comparison test with one of the the monitors. For me, this was much better. Even at lower volumes the difference was obvious. An improvement over both the modeling amp and the monitor.

Yeah, in practice it is definitely more than a .05" off. Maybe they are including the width of the outer bars? That being said, it seems to be working fine with the knob removed. It doesn't seem any less stable. It would take a pretty decent force to remove that piece even without the knob and since it is only being used in a home environment for me it shouldn't be a big issue. I do have an external expression pedal but the bigger issue is that I just got mine recently so I am early in the stages of playing with it so I am fiddling with it a lot. In the long run, I will probably put it on the floor and put a laptop in the stand for editing.

Hmm...I got it to fit but I had to remove the knob altogether on one side to get it to fit. I wonder if that makes it less stable. The side doesn't seem to be removable even without the knob. The On-Stage MIX400

Did you have to modify it to get the helix to fit? I picked one up but was not able to get the Helix into it. It is about 1/2" too small.

Great idea!

I am relatively new to this myself so someone else may be able to provide more accurate information but usually think of it like this. volume is the equivalent of the volume control of a physical amp master volume is the volume level applied at the end So I guess in a simplified scenario I would think that guitar volume, drive and volume would impact distortion levels and that master volume and your headphones/speaker volume would not. Of course, the amp you are modeling will make a big difference and anything else in the chain can also have an impact. I would try turning the guitar volume up, turning the drive up, leaving the master volume moderate and use you speaker/headphones to adjust volume to taste. Also, make sure you are using a suitable amp model.

My wife uses an Amplifi and I currently have been spending time with the Firehawk. The Firehawk is in some ways very similar to the Amplifi line so my thought would be it depends on what you do and don't like about the Amplifi. If you like the way the application and interface works but want better expandability, HD effects/amps and a superior floor controller than I would recommend the Firehawk FX as a great solution. On the other hand, if you don't like the way the Amplifi works you are going to find the Firehawk is much the same.

Tweak mode allows you to use a pedal to control the degree of an element of an effect. From within an effect block if you press and hold on the effect bar you can assign it as a tweak. For example, you could put an overdrive stomp and use the pedal to control the amount of drive dynamically or you could control the mix amount on a chorus or a delay dynamically using the pedal.

From playing with it, I think the documentation is a little misleading. I don't think the mode is something you set, I think that is just how it works. I think what you can set in the editor is if there is a tweak assigned or not. In other words, if you have a second expression pedal connected and you assign a tweak, it puts the tweak on pedal 2 and wah/volume on the on-board pedal. If you don't assign a tweak it puts volume on pedal 2 and wah on the on-board pedal. I haven't had mine for long so maybe someone can give you better advice, that just seems to be how it works from my limited testing.

For me, personally, it is one of those areas where software is different than reality. With a physical knob you can grab it and turn it. Yes, that is intuitive. In software, not only can you not grab the knob but you have options, such as increased granularity, that are not super easy to do with a physical knob. A control like a slider is much more effective than a knob in software. Look at it this way, if you had never used a pedal or physical amp would you still expect the controls in the software to be knobs?

Personally, I can't stand it when software does this. I find dragging up and down to turn a knob completely unintuitive.

Gearbox 3.7.2 is still on the line 6 download page. Does that one not work?

Those MG deluxe stands are usually on-sale either at MF or GC pretty regularly. For the money when they are on-sale they are hard to beat and I have 3 of them. That being said, I would not be willing to put a helix on one of them for an extended period of time. They are not strong enough for that. It might be OK if you were going to put it on the stand for a few minutes to do some editing and then put it back on the floor right afterwards but I would never walk away from it.

Thanks! I read that first link which one of the reasons I began to be concerned. Thanks, good to know you are having success with them close to the wall. Mine will be on stands at an appropriate height as well but the layout of the room pretty much dictates that they will very close to a wall and a window.

I have been reading reviews on the Yamaha HS series monitors you guys recommended and a lot of people recommend putting them away from the walls since they are rear ported. In my scenario they will be about 6" from the wall. How big of a real world problem is that for guitar?

You can set the amp and cabinet modeling to "No Amp" and "No Cabinet". If you haven't already you can install the app so you can get a feel for how it works even without the physical device.