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Verne-Bunsen last won the day on July 22 2019

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About Verne-Bunsen

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    Gear Head

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  1. Dual Lock is a much more "mechanical" connection than standard velcro. It takes some force, especially if there are multiple pieces and row alignment is off a bit, and the more you use the more force is required to get it all engaged. First recommendation is to use less. I put three rows of 2-inch on my Helix and it is massively overkill and it is a nightmare removing it from the board. Aside from that, try starting on an edge as opposed to trying to press the whole thing straight in. If you can reduce how many rows you are trying to engage at a time, less force is required.
  2. I kind of think that this post should automatically be the first response in every single new thread.
  3. Thanks! Definitely overkill, but I use it all! I've been using Helix since very early on and this arrangement has kind of developed over time. Helix handles amp, cab/IR, dirt, modulation, and tone shaping (eq, compression). Reverb and delay is handled by outboard pedals in the loops. The music I play lately is very reverb-and-delay intensive, and I like being able to plug in exactly what I need or want. The Freq Out is a "toy" that doesn't have a counterpart in Helix, and the Boomerang has functionality that is critical to what I do and that the Helix looper doesn't have. The Helix's ability to seamlessly incorporate outboard gear was a big part of why I chose it when deciding on a modeling platform. If you are interested, this is the sort of thing I like to do with all that stuff: https://soundcloud.app.goo.gl/GwvF8oAsy2jvV6fbA
  4. Power distribution is definitely a major part of laying out a modern pedalboard. It deserves at least as much planning as the audio cable routing. I don't know of a "magic bullet" for doing all of those things. Might exist, but I haven't found it. My board has a master power strip that supplies Helix and my Boomerang looper directly, then a Strymon Ojai that powers my Strymon and Meris pedals, and a Voodoo Labs PP+ that runs the smaller pedals. Yeesh. (forgive the bad lighting, the lighting was bad...)
  5. I have the translucent Barefoot Buttons and they are awesome. I like having the capacitance functions accessed by touching the set screw on the side rather than a surface on top, as it keeps me from accidentally doing things (which used to happen a LOT). It requires deliberate action. Also, I think they look pretty sweet...
  6. I am really excited for the Retro Reel. I've been jonesing for Deco for quite a while and trying to figure out how to squeeze it on my board, seeing this in the update really got me excited! I'm away from home for work and won't get to play with it for a couple of weeks yet, but I'm sure looking forward to it...
  7. I agree that amps seem to break up very early, especially given that I tend toward generally low output pickups. Every time I try the input pad though I feel like the life has been sucked out of my guitars. Perhaps I just haven't spent enough time dialing my patches back in after engaging it. I think I'll play with it again...
  8. Gosh, it's been quite a while but I am pretty certain I was running that between the amp and the cab, that is generally where I put my outboard reverbs and delays. Glad those clips have been helpful!
  9. It isn't a fan forum nor a sales floor. It is a user forum. We are here to help each other get the most out of this device, not to move units. Your question has been answered repeatedly and consistently: there is no reason for you to upgrade to Helix. There is nothing wrong with your Spider Jam if it works for you.
  10. Agreed, I am loving the Princeton! I've been running it in a dual amp configuration with the Deluxe Reverb (which has been my go-to since Day 1) and the two compliment eachother really nicely.
  11. I tried different cabs on each side but it was too much. With a hard pan in headphones it was about enough to split your personality. I now run with a subtle variation, same cab with different mic combos.
  12. 2B comes back and merges back with 2A. Following the merge, 2A is a stereo signal and all blocks (including the FX loops) are stereo.
  13. Here is how I implement it. This patch runs mono until after the amp, then splits to a stereo path. The split looks like this: The Simple Delay block is on one side only and is set up like this: Each side has a cabinet IR and a modulation block that only affects that side, then the paths are merged but the stereo image is maintained through the merge block like this: All blocks after the stereo merge must be stereo or the signal will be collapsed back to mono. I hope this helps!
  14. I use a mono "Simple Delay" block on one side immediately after the stereo split and set time to 10ms, feedback to 0%, mix to 100%. This creates a pretty huge stereo image. My dad has a Strymon Deco and the effect is similar to the "Wide Stereo Mode" on that pedal.
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