jerseyboy

I also prefer the OG acoustic models but the JTV has grown on me and it really doesn’t bother me as it once did. Spitballing here it seems JTV acoustics might be more suited towards fingerpicking? But that’s just a wild guess based on my happy meter when fingerpicking as opposed to flat picking. But a good Helix preset tweaked for acoustic will help tremendously. Don’t forget to try the 12 string acoustic body types with only 6 six string tuning? That sometimes helps warm up the HD acoustic models/images. A few other tweaks seem to bring the tones into acceptable range without all the trouble of rolling back FW, etc.

I almost always use a manual capo with Sitar and 12 string models. As explained CPU is working OT for major pitch/tone shifting properties of those models. IMO 12 string models sound much better with a physical/manual capo compared to the same models with virtual capo. Simpler 6 string models the virtual capo is okay but 12 strings and Sitar work much better manually capo’d. Although I do enjoy a baritone tuned 12 string electric from time to time.

As of today there’s a black 59US on Reverb. Also 2 69’s US red and black. I work Korean 59 builds especially 2017-newer. Fantastic guitars after tuner upgrade and stellar setup. Haven’t played a US version yet. I’m sure it’s great.

Used guitar someone may have replaced the neck pickup with something that looks identical but all it takes is reverse magnetic or electrical polarity winding… Or, QC just missed one that suffered this fate. If indeed it’s reverse polarity wiring/magnetism that caused your issue. My description of classic 2&4 Strat tone normal parallel polarity is more of a “boink” rather than “quack”. Reverse parallel polarity is the “quack” in my world. Reverse serial polarity more of a “thwack”. Similar but more meat and output to the parallel reverse polarity quack.

Wives will get over it. Hahaha I wanted to share (gloat) ‘grabbed a 3rd JTV59. The last 2 used ones 2019, 2017, respectively. Gotta say both these newer 59’s are somewhat nicer build than my original 2013. Both slightly lighter weight and the fit, finish, everything just seems nicer. Not by a huge margin but noticeable to me. And I’m sure the newer builds have most, if not all, electronic components updated to the latest improvements. Notably the “blue” switch on tone knob seemed to be a problem on my 2013. Solved myself but it was something to deal with. I’m sharing this in case yer wife comes around and shopping for #2. Highly recommend 2017-newer.

I used to wire analog guitars for this capability. Adding the necessary switches and/or wiring to the pickup was never fun or easy. Thankfully Variax makes it so much easier to get that unique out of phase “thwack” virtually.

As you confirmed Standard/JTV guitars don’t require presets saved with alt tuning like the 300(gen1). In fact the tuning wheel can be customized manually. Check in Pilot’s Handbook for the specific knob press procedure. I can’t remember top of my head but it came in handy one time without a computer. The 300 and all Gen 1 Variax Sitars can mute the sympathetic strings. Factory presets by rolling off the tone control or edit via old Workbench if that still runs on your PC.

I’ve always felt that way too. Gen 1 pre-HD j-200 model always sounded mighty fine pumped thru FRFR amplification. Although Standard/JTV HD edited 12 string Martin body as a 6 string sounds pretty good of late. That and judicious adjustment of mic placement has improved my outlook of HD acoustic models.

Good to hear drowner77. I wholeheartedly agree a spare or two is probably best. My work is mission critical and with Line6 going Dodo on these amazing guitars there’s some strength in numbers. And of course our good man in Calabasas. I work 2qty JTV59’s (custom Bigsby’s) and JTV69. Sometimes ‘use batteries but majority of the time Helix via VDI. Safe travels my friend…

Extreme heat does accelerate degrading chemical reactions. Once the chemistry is damaged and dendrites take over it’s damaged forever. High IR means cells can no longer deliver the current they used to deliver. Although cells might still be able to provide seemingly good capacity at lower discharge rates - the resulting saggy voltage of high IR will confuse LVC (low voltage cutoff) circuitry. As the good man says 11 years is definitely beyond the calendar life expectancy of even the best quality lipoly cells. Even if not cycled deeply or often. Much agreement about discontinuing the Variax. Bad move.

Cold/cool lipoly battery temperatures can drastically reduce C rate. You’re working in room temperatures or higher, yes? As the good man advised bring those last 4 digits of both batteries back here. Short of Line6 service maybe a friendly RC model enthusiast can measure the battery pack IR and C rate to help provide some battery health guidance? 2s1p 18650 cell configuration. If the packs are good and it’s an over current situation something should be getting pretty warm inside? Because in order to drain roughly 2Ah in 30 minutes would require nearly 4A load or roughly 25-30 Watts for system voltage. Nearing the heat output of a small soldering iron.

Having 3 is a good place to start for critical performance work. I’ve been in similar situation dating back to the 10’s - present. Our good man psarkissian can work miracles in CA. Well worth the shipment if local help is not available. Reverb can help with guitar shipping, btw.

Silverhead - thanks again brother. I’m running JTV’s (3qty). Also gotta couple 500’s that still talk to ancient Yosemite install. But those aren’t HD WB. NOW I see James Tyler Variax. I was looking under V’s. Lord help me…

Yep all good. And feel free to burn this thread. Stoopid me didn’t think to try NOT selecting hardware.

Thanks for the replies. The trick seems to be leave “hardware” drop down menu blank. I had been selecting Variax there. Left blank but select WB HD and OS it reveals the download.