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jerseyboy

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Everything posted by jerseyboy

  1. I've heard several folks play Hotel California using Variax 12-string models and most sound fairly convincing. Here's a quick youtube search: https://youtu.be/v5IcKsSGecE I couldn't get the link in this thread to play in my browser but perhaps it works for modern computers: Not sure if any amplification was used in your mp4 but seemed fairly unprocessed except for what reminded me of phase effect? I did notice a tendency to use mild vibrato and/or bend strings. Even slightly bending string will upset the 12 string model sound. I've been known to play convincing "Tambourine Man" using the Rick 12 string model. They do exhibit some keyboard'eque character but in context with backing tracks they tend to sound pretty decent. I've also performed "I've Just Seen A Face" using 12-string acoustic for original solo. Here again, not great when isolated but used in live mix it works very well.
  2. Don’t jump into USA JTV without some previous experience and understanding of Variax technology. Nicely crafted guitars but still…. If you’re already set with analog/magnetic tones practically any Variax Gen 1 or 2 will likely suffice as introduction to the technology. JTV59 my current favorite (very good hum buckers) but I still enjoy many of the original Variax gen 1 models. I also maintain gen 1 with riser nut for lap/slide needs. I own 4qty Variax and regularly use them all. Electric models seem to work well with various pedalboards/amps schemes. Acoustic models must be DI/XLR full range amplification because they’re essentially microphone captured WAV maps. An XPS power supply A/B box is often a great addition to smoothly switch acoustic/electric models to either XLR output for acoustic or Hi-Z 1/4” phono for amps/pedalboard. Of course the VDI cable plays nicely with Line6 amp modelers too. Good luck….
  3. Nice to see Steinberger gearless available through StewMac again. For past couple years they were getting hard to find. Perfect replacement for huge heavy easily broken banjo tuners on Gibson Firebird. Really liked the Steinberger gearless and planned to use them on other guitars but the supply dried up for a while. It's really neat how they pull the string down into the mechanism using a fine threaded system. I can’t comment upgrading tuners on JTV-89 but my recent choices for JTV-59 and 1st gen 6x6 have been HipShot locking tuners. With the option of UMP (universal mounting plate) Hipshot's super easy to install and work like a champ.
  4. Tip my hat to Line6 for LH versions back in the beginning but I understand why little old L6 would drop that option during JTV era. But kinda surprised Yamaha hasn’t committed to LH Variax guitars. I guess it’s a business and large corporations usually know what they’re doing in regard to bottom line. I know at least 4qty Variax have been sold...
  5. What continent (country) do you reside? What's the nature of electronics failure? No sound output? Sounds not right? What $$$ you seeking? I'm looking for salvageable Variax electronics to perform Dobro/Lap transplant. Bridge and piezo don't really matter using Ghost loaded tun-o-matic.
  6. I’ve conducted some experiments with string type/condition and all the above does influence modeling tones. One of my favorites for something unique and different is to use flat wounds D’Adarrio Chromes on electric Variax. Simply buy medium set 13-56, toss out the 56 add a 10 string’er up. Works out to 10-45 IIRC? Sticking close to OEM gauge seems to be fairly important. Possibly more so than string type. Broken in, flat wounds reduced plinks, finger noises and other artifacts playing at high preamp gain settings. But of course the wound strings sounded like flat wounds too. Weird but kinda cool in many situations. Acoustic models take on a funky D-18 with decade old strings tone/texture under the Dread model. Reminded me of Norman Blake flat picking tone. Currently using Elixir 10-46 but I prefer the thicker poly wrap as opposed to the thinner coatings for Variax. Splitting hairs but they seem to be somewhat quieter in regard to finger noise.
  7. Glad I poked my head in here. That’s mad skill scientist stuff and then some! Impressive and sure to be a sweetheart when finished. What did you source for connector contacts, JST? I work with similar contacts and crimp tools from li-ion battery BMS kludging.
  8. Haven't used Monkey in years. Is it still a thing? What purpose does it serve? WBHD seems to handle FW updates now.
  9. All monitoring being equal I’m more fond of Gen 1 acoustic models although JTV is acceptable. Gen 1 Jumbo has just always worked particularly well for live & studio gigs. Perhaps I’m more accustomed to a decade of playing Gen 1 acoustic models but tweak and tweak they’re never quite as warm and natural to my ear.
  10. For some of us stock 59 hum buckers offer some “great” qualities. Perhaps play around with reasonable height adjustment and stick with 1/4” output out of the gate. At least during rig/pedalboard setup phase. Nearly all electric guitars - I tend to use bright amp settings and simply dial back treble (ice picks) with guitar tone controls. I've always worked with amps that way and I tend to find satisfying spank, sparkle and pizazz using decently wound pickups. But some folks prefer different pickups for their jam so ultimately something to figure out on your own.
  11. If models work most likely a wiring/switching issue which requires qualified care/repair. Have you perhaps changed type/brand of strings when this happened? I recently had a bizarre loss of magnetic pickup signal. Fortunately only 1 string affected. Traced down to some weird Chinese metal alloy string which didn’t possess magnetic properties. Alloy strings can make a tremendous difference when it comes to magnetic qualities. https://line6.com/support/topic/49648-help- no-high-e-string-using-magnetic-pickups- models-fine- /?tab=comments#comment-307654 Good luck….
  12. Sorry if this link is uncool but I'm dying to know more about this on a historic level - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Line-6-James-Tyler-Variax-RH-Made-In-Korea-Sunburst-Electric-Guitar/293163625069?hash=item4441e9ea6d:g:jWoAAOSw99ddQeIB Never mind the sucker who reads and believes "works perfectly" (referring to the mag pickup I suppose?) However the logic bay appears to be nil....
  13. $4k JTV's will be American made. Korean built JTV's street price north of $1k, often much less for GOOD used specimens. I play both Gen 1's (500, 700) and Gen 2 JTV. Each version has their own +/- depending on what you're comparing. No sensible reason trying to make a silk purse from Sow's ear. If you can hand deliver to factory service folks I'd do it in a heartbeat. Since it's working okay on XPS probably ain't nothing terminally wrong.
  14. I don’t know the Katana amp but an experienced guess is their ACOUSTIC setting is probably voiced for under saddle acoustic guitar sensors/pickups. Fishman, Takamine, Ovation, LR Baggs, etc. Probably won’t sound very good with an acoustic Variax model though. Too bad Line6 never got the wisdom of modeling industry accepted acoustic pickup sounds. Models of a plugged in Tak or Ovation would’ve been a useful thing for those of us stuck with only electric amp on many gigs. The prime criteria for Variax acoustic amplification or recording work imho is to use similar stuff as we do for vocals. Essentially a microphone on instrument but without all the feedback. My Helix presets for acoustic amount to very little in the chain. Definitely no amps or speaker models. Comp, verb, EQ, maybe delay/chorus, that’s about it. For conventional amp backlines one of the most important tools for my Variax gig box is the old XPS power supply A/B XLR output box. 1/4” sent to electric guitar stage amp while the XLR goes to a full range monitor and FOH.
  15. It's also commonly confused on the Variax message board. People post questions for 1st Gen in the Variax Standard forum all the time. I'm with brother codamedia - 1st Gen, 2nd Gen, hopefully more gens...
  16. Really depends on the gigs but I tend to sort things along the lines of stage sound, PA sound and instrument related. Instrument related varies wildly depending on instruments played but includes: strings, winder/cutter, neck relief tools, nail clippers/files, flat & finger picks, capos, slides, steels, clamp-on tuner, pencil, flashlight, small screwdrivers, straps. Even lube oil, applicator and of course the bender bar for HipShot bender setups. Stage sound is what’s needed to connect instruments into whatever stage amplification we’ll be using but lotsa 1/4-1/4 cables and any volume pedal, A/B boxes. I enjoy Fishman Loudbox amps for stage monitoring and in many cases handling DI output. Don’t normally carry much to connect PA sound to FOH as most those gigs have mic cables and crew scurrying around. But if small house PA we’re operating it’s always good to have XLR cable and various adapters, inserts, etc. If you take the leap as myself and others going full range amp modeling you’ll be kinda SOL if Helix LT (or any modeler) dies or becomes damaged during transit. For this reason I always carry a Zoom MS50 multi pedal. Never forced to use it in place of Helix LT but did an impromptu bar gig with it past year driving a LoudBox and it was more than satisfying club amp sound imo. In the unlikely event Helix died I’d be glad to have "something" small yet powerful.
  17. Working guys take things slowly and deliberately. 1000's of paying guests plus dozens of talent/crew shouldn't be Guinea Pigs. Hobbyists can experience unexpected changes without much actual damage to the proceedings.
  18. At the risk of offending my good friends at Line6 - another cool IR device = Audio Sprockets Tone Dexter. It works IR magic with user created WAV maps of individual instruments. I created Tone Dexter IR's of all my acoustic guitars and now I can play my easy-action Taylor yet spit out the salty old high-action Martin. Recently did a music store workshop and we mapped a nice Martin with Fishman under saddle pickup using AKG C1000s microphone. Then we grabbed $150 Recording King brand with very similar under saddle pickup. Tone Dexter was happy to spit out the WAV mapped tone of the Martin - eyes in the room got very big. Very impressive and possibilities are endless. Festival guys learning they can bring the sound of their expensive boutique instruments into harsh conditions using a much cheaper workhorse axe.
  19. They were sold as electric guitar strings and they seemed to ring fine on the JTV strummed acoustically. Main concern were any anomalies models/piezos might suffer. That’s why I plugged in and checked the models but it never dawned on me to test the mags. What a very weird and startling surprise. I don’t even know why these things were ever made and it’s a good reminder that “secret string recipes” for magnetic pickups can make tremendous difference. I don’t think I’ll be buying strings direct from China anymore. Older old-timers told me electric guitar string materials slowly changed and refined through the 60’s and later years. Even if you wanted to sound exactly like Buddy Holly (Black Diamond flat wound) or someone from that era, currently available string materials wiggling over newfangled pickups aren’t the same as were used back in the day. Of course we’ll never be able to A/B such theories but it’s fun to wonder what those sounds were like in that era. I've been told by original Cricket and believe Buddy Holly used BD flats on his Strat because out in the boonies that’s what drug stores often stocked for the touring big bands. Not many full service music stores like today.
  20. Yeah, it’s likely duff battery pack. Good on them to replace. Lithium chemistries can be damaged rather easily. Over discharge, stored at full charge for long periods of time, excess heat. Lead and Nickel chemistries tolerate more general abuse but come up short on the high performance C rate, energy density self-discharge scale. Rock on!
  21. You read that right. I decided to be super cheap and lazy and bought 20 plain high E (11’s) strings via FleaBay. I go through ‘em at a good clip and I sometimes like .011 instead of .010. https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Pack-Single-Electric-Guitar-Strings-Bulk-011-High-E-Medium-11-Gauge-M2I8/332747544409?hash=item4d794c9759:g:7R4AAOSwq75bZgDw Chinese seller supper slow shipping. I’d kinda forgot about ‘em until they arrived in mailbox. Threw one on JTV59 and it felt okay. Sorta felt different but I chocked it up to being 11. All seemed good enough and I even checked the modeling to be sure there wasn’t any drastic volume/tone difference. All good or so I thought. Start our show on a Spank model and all’s well. However, flipping to magnetic pickups no high E string. What? You’ve gotta be kidding me! 1st I thought I’d lost a piezo but no, models sounded fine and balanced volume but my head keep going back to all the threads here and dead piezo. Ugh! Eventually resorted to using Lester modeling until we hit a break and swapped-in #2. So apparently these strings are some sort of non-ferrous alloy and will not generate any signal through magnetic pickups. I’ve never heard of such a thing. Could you imagine buying a full set of these and wondering why my guitar pickups died? Anyway, please indulge my starting a thread but I felt worth sharing since we often hear about low or no string volume issues but only with modeling. This situation being the complete opposite and after some puzzled moments I got quite a chuckle out of the irony. Been at this nearly 50 years and still run into stuff I would’ve never imagined possible. Only from China I suppose?
  22. Stock 12 string is a matter of context. In a mix most don’t seem bad but when exposed for something like the opening to “Hotel California” they can use some work. For me it’s a matter of connecting Workbench HD then tweaking guitar body types and mic placement referencing similar full range amplification or input capture I expect to use live or recording. This way I’ve manage to get it pretty close and more than acceptable for live work. Lighter gentle attack is generally better.
  23. Not sure about the LED sequence. Would like to know myself. Unused shelf life of these and similar 18605 Lithium cells much longer than 3 years. Stored roughly 50% SOC (state of charge) under cool moderate temperatures these cells will last much much longer. 7-10 years should not out of the question for quality cells. Cycle life is another matter. Full cycles, partial cycles. There’s that number depending on specific chemistry/brand. But if not cycled I would suggest burn off the top charge and remove from guitar. 50% is ideal but even 10% drop in SOC for storage will reap major benefits. With a fully charge battery pack, play yer guitar for 20-30 minutes then remove the pack from guitar. Store in moderate climate.
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