jerseyboy

Some rehearsal occasions I’ve been supplied with serious powered floor wedges to connect Helix. Talk about eye wobbling delays and modulation effects. Thoroughly enjoyed sitting in the middle of that stereo field. But for most live gigs stereo guitar isn’t super critical to my playing style or enjoyment. I've played em and JC120 executes a very cool chorus thing using it's stereo setup. But it's never going to produce what I would call a wide stereo field.

Yes, I’ve been gigging this setup live and very satisfied. LB instrument input introduces some coloration but easily adjustable low, mid, high. Hell, most stages/venues I’m playing introduce colorations too…. If I want/demand more unadulterated full range the LB mic input is very flat. In fact that is my favorite input for Variax acoustic models when I bother lugging XPS A/B power supply. I’ve also used the LB mini-phono line-in for rehearsal situations with very positive results. Mainly because we needed extra inputs for other instruments to rehearse. But live configuration using the LB instrument input for electric guitar rendering of amp models is very satisfying and easily adjusted for whatever live job at hand. I am a mono guy so stereo heads might not approve of this approach. In the case of LB Mini about 20lbs for loud and clean. Hard to beat that...

Better late than never. Sorry just now seeing your kind and helpful reply. I will take a look under global for those things you mentioned. Thanks again!

I mostly only use computer after things have settled into needed presets via the Helix UI. Save my work for backups and transfer to other units, etc.

As posted in another FRFR thread I'm a satisfied Fishman Loudbox user for DSP electric/acoustic guitar stage work. Very flexible inputs, tone shaping and DI. I surprised myself using the LB built-in reverb/chorus efx. Reason being each room/stage is different response for those effects so I can readily dial-in a nice amount for each situation without getting too deep into DSP editing during heat of battle.

All of this depends on many factors but apply as a starting point to help situations where LOUD DSP tones sound and behave nothing like they do in headphones and/or living rooms. Lower room volumes - tone usually benefits from flat mids with slight boost to Bass/Treble. Medium room volumes - tones generally need small mid cut and less Bass/Treble boost. High volumes normally benefit from large mid cut and essentially flat Bass/Treble - perhaps even cutting Bass if it’s too boomy. My favorite full range “amp” is a Fishman Loudbox Artist or Mini. Very versatile swiss army knife for amplifying DSP guitar tones and of course acoustic instruments across many different settings/situations. I quickly learned to dial-in live HELIX tones through 1/4” instrument input, XLR or even the 1/8” mini phono. Nice pocket/envelope of sound across wide range live situations.

Saw this in Helix forum a while back - https://line6.com/support/topic/31186-b-bender-effect/ ‘haven’t studied details but if it can work well on B string can likely adapt to G string. I use HipShot B bender massaged onto old Variax 500 I had laying around. Quickly became one of my favorite C&W guitars. Tele-Lester-Special bridge models deliver solid steel guitar tones imo.

I work with 2qty 59’s and they’re heavy but still lighter than a late 70’s Led Paul black beauty. 15lbs? Is that verified on a scale? I do believe JTV59’s chambered (not sure - someone knows). Gotta remember the beefy bridge, electronics and battery pack weigh something more than perhaps the wood removed to house all the electronics? Pretty sure the neck is Maple as my finish wears off reveals bright wood under there. Out of warranty thing to do of course but if you’re game, give it a go! Photos of the carnage and results please!

Factory volume bleeder cap show up in many G&L ASAT. Anderson(?) offered it in a cool Tele Pickup wiring tech article from GP rag back in the 80's. A favorite mod for practically any Fender'ish single coil axe I play.

Oh yeah, definitely chain of events/components. Y'all nailed the 59 pups and control choices. Mr Duncan's top drawer good guy in my book - couple decades ago personally called me after I'd left a message searching something slightly unique for a show I was working at the time. We talked a bit, couple days later two of the sweetest Tele pups ever arrived at my door. Major fan... Speaking of pots & caps - always wondered why Variax modeling never offered 1500-2200pf bleed cap across volume pot under WB control options? Some of you know with single coil guitars it helps counter EQ darkness when backing off volume. Particularly when you need rhythm parts to cut through after rolling back from solo tone. Assbackward workaround with Variax - save suitable dark tone setting on Tele/Spank bridge positions. Next, trained myself to always dime the volume before I switch to those positions so that I land on a full volume darker tone for soloing. Post solo, back volume off it brightens up sorta like the bleed cap. Of course, this only works if I'm gonna remain on that pickup for comping. It would be a helluva lot easier if WB simply offered a treble bleed cap volume control option. Of course, it might already be in there and somebody will probably point it out to me, LOL...

Very good if not great pickup. One of those nice surprises regarding the 59. Neck is pretty good too. Any tidbits about that would be cool to know.

I find using guitar tuning banjo sounds to be rather odd. Everything mostly sounds like guitar chords/riffs but with a banjo tone. A Variax trick I’ve used with some success is to create a custom open G tuning banjo model. IN Workbench edit top 4 strings to bluegrass banjo D G B D (low-high) then tune the Variax/Guitar A string up to the highest G (10th fret) and the low E string to a lower G (3rd fret) note. Not exactly 5 string banjo tuning but close enough for the top 4 strings to sell some bluegrass licks. The open G notes don’t wreck things much even if you hit one every once in a while. Same thing with resonator models too. Edit couple of those with various open tunings along with electric models for slide or lap steel stuff as well. Very versatile instrument. It can be a lot to take in and apply sometimes but often worth the effort.

Congrats on the newest family member! Pretty dang useful guitars. Seymour pups always welcome in my axes. We all know Slash can shred but Seymour is a helluva player too and knows pickups. I think worthwhile upgrading stock tuners to Hipshot UMP locking tuners. Better tuners and locking function helps simplify string changes on 59's. UMP is fairly "kitchen table" installation. Coming from Fender/G&L background I added LP pick guards to both 59's I play. Minor massaging and drilling involved but it was the only way for me to be truly comfortable holding an arch top guitar form. As for the shorter scale length - 'just had to suck it up...

I’ve been and continue working 2qty LT’s 6 days per week since Fall 2017 with no expression pedal problems. The important note for our success is loosening the friction adjustment. Do it right out of the box Allen wrench is provided. My opinion is they ship with far too much friction to be rocked back & forth without stressing the design. Another thing that might help is that I never use the toe switch to engage the pedal. My setup merely changes presets to engage Wha or other expression functions.

I play Asian built JTV59’s upgraded with added locking Hipshot tuners to improve function and help make string changes easier. https://line6.com/support/topic/42548-jtv-59-pricing/ https://line6.com/support/topic/41967-jtv-59-and-jtv-69-same-number-of-models/ To quote supreme Line6 mod/tech: “…made in smaller batches by a guy who is really good,... hence the price.” I would love to support USA builder but 4X the price I just can’t make that contribution. The Asian builds are decent enough and use mostly same electronics. Which is the primary mojo-bone. Must be nice for those who can but does the builder really see that $5k? Line6 markup for USA guitars…???

Helix LT changing presets in Stomp Mode is completely in the dark. Display barely outputting any light and bank buttons all completely OFF. Seems bizarre production must add $40 Little Lite to reliably see buttons on $1000 floorboard. Especially when it already has plenty of built in LEDs. And yeah, both log/linear volume pedal settings do nothing for my (and others) swell playing. Sweep curve adjustment would solve this nag…

Well that is a bummer! Thanks for the knowledge though.

I had the tremendous good fortune of lessons with Will Ray during the 90’s in LA. Highly recommend checking into his use of B bender. Clarence White is the original bender pioneer of course and many other Gnashville Cats over the years. B benders help drive sweet country licks but another useful trick is to shorten the interval between high E and B strings for slide parts which lend similar to open E tuned rig. Although the curved top might cause some mounting difficulties JTV59 bridge actually lends itself well to the Hipshot string routing. I'm gonna try fitting one on a 59 someday.

Normally don’t care to comment on something I don’t have 1st hand experience but I’m surfing here and can say I previously used XT Live to recall 500/700 electric models via presets/patches. I see no reason why that function wouldn’t work same for Acoustic 700. But, I don’t own or operate Acoustic 700….

I don’t care to gloat or make too big of deal about my Variax uses and experiences. Mostly very positive experiences. Some people develop contentious relationship with this forum due to the constant preaching and admonishments about not touching anything. Well, here’s one of my latest “touches” massaging Hipshot Bender to an old 500. Had to drill a small hole (careful use of a long aircraft bit) and of course the B string is now routed differently and exerts different down pressure than the other strings. Simple string volume level adjustment in WB sorted that out. Talk about a GOOD TIME and working surprisingly well. The red plastic helps keep the bridge saddle from moving and adding funny grinding sounds. Hangs sharp a little bit but even the best G&L installations do that to some degree. Most of us using these pullers learn to give the string a little tug while playing to maintain tuning. A little oil at the friction point also helps. I’ll probably add small diameter nylon tubing under the bridge saddle to better help glide the string path… I also steadily play/work JTV59’s and they’re great all around axes. Shuriken could be fun but probably beyond my age group….

Hello Ikolenat. Are these for older Workbench or newer HD as applied to current Variax Standard & JTV models? This forum is for the later FYI....

Good luck finding an answer. 2013 Yamaha subsidiary relationship is what gives me reason to believe JTV is probably winding down. Some will say they merely build batches of Variax models and when the demand is sufficient another batch will spring forth. I dunno and communicating with Line6 about these matters is often like talking to a pile of Sand. Understandable but frustrating.

Either linear or logarithmic I've never liked the curve of the LT volume pedal. One of my biggest complaints actually - heavy swell steel guitar trickery here. Another LT complaint is how dark the damn thing is when changing presets. Under stage blackout I can't tell what damn button I'm pressing. Very frustrating considering all the lighted capable buttons on the silly thing. So I'm forced to use a Little Lite to see what's what changing presets.

Love it man! It may take all my remaining years on earth but someday I’ll fabricate a front dress plate or two for an old 500. Visual stimuli has always been important for live stage but even more so in our graphic image rich modern world we live. Doing live country gig on Variax 500 recently I knew there'd be good natured ribbing by some old duffers so I dressed 501 up/down a bit. The nickname "Wilford" (as in Brimley) was immediately thrown out and kinda stuck... Biggest surprise was how many fair ladies in the room loved it!

Do you know how to use a DVM (volt meter)? If so, what voltage is the battery currently and what voltage is available at the charger contacts with it plugged into the wall wart? If you don't know how to measure voltages open a ticket with Line6 support.