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cbrillow

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cbrillow last won the day on November 27 2018

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  1. Happy to try to help. There's still the question whether it's a 500 or a 600. I suppose it's possible that yours may have been modded. I've attached an image of my 600, showing the bridge & tremolo. The set screw has been replaced with a longer one. But the end of the bar inserted into the collar definitely is smooth, and rounded at the end. No threads at all...
  2. Sure you don't mean Variax 600? To my knowledge, the original Variax, later dubbed the '500' was only sold with one body style, and it was a hardtail. And the 600, which did have a tremolo arm, had one that snapped into a collar and was stabilized with a tiny allen set screw. The bar, itself, didn't screw in. Not sure how to help you on this one - don't see anything with a 5-6mm thread.
  3. Surprised that nobody's touched this. Yep, I used to do it with a power bank. Worked just fine. Of course that all ended when the transmitter battery was effectively neutered by the firmware safety upgrade...
  4. Looks like a couple of the posts have been infected with some spam links. I wonder if this is a user issue or a flaw in the forum software that allows this. The user comments appear legitimate. Suggested that you avoid clicking on the links, though...
  5. Good info, velocis -- may help out someone one of these days! Congratulations on solving your problem.
  6. Wow -- look at that cheesy, thin, non-adjustable (in terms of string-length) bridge with no piezos! Amazing that somebody'd try to pull this off!
  7. I have a JTV-59 and use the mag pickups almost exclusively. IMO, They seem to have a hotter output and more realistically represent expected sustain and decay characteristics when playing live through an amplifier. The models include these characteristics of the guitars modeled, which may or may not be quite what you'd want. But it's a matter of personal preference. Another reason I use the mag pickups so much? Poor performance from my original JTV battery, and the expense of replacing it.
  8. Nice that you can toot your own horn, but I'll bet other users would be interested if you could make a comment or two about your experience in achieving this. Did you have to jump through any hoops to get all the pieces in place, hold your tongue 'just right' in the corner of your mouth, etc? As it is, your post comes off as "Nyah, nyah, look at me"...
  9. This may or may not be something in which I'm interested at some point, but I heartily commend and thank you for following up and presenting the solution to the problem that you encountered. Wish everyone were so helpful and considerate!
  10. Thanks for your kind comment. I enjoy sharing my experiences - and experiments! - with other Line 6 users.
  11. It's interesting that you'd make this distinction, which implies that these later models have a different DC voltage requirement than the 300/500/600/700 models of yesteryear. That may in fact be technically true, given that the 1st generation models used 6AA cells for a nominal 9Vdc for their battery supply vs the labeled 7.4Vdc lithium battery used on the JTV. (and, probably, the Shuriken and Standard models as well -- I don't own one of them, so I don't know for sure...) As we know, battery/cell voltages drift downward as they discharge during use, so there's really a range of acceptable voltages that can be applied without damaging the instrument. I'd not be afraid to apply 10volts to my Variax 500 or 600, feeling fairly confident that the circuit would handle the slight overvoltage. That said, I've adjusted my adapter board to output 9 volts, to simulate a battery. When powered by a battery, there's also a Vmin cutoff voltage, below which the guitar onboard processor will not function. I have a pretty good idea what this range is, in a general sense, but won't throw out numbers that I'm only making an educated guess about. But getting back to your comment about adjusting the modified circuit in a box designed to replace an XPS A-B box, I would guess that the XPS, given that it's designed to work with any of the Variax models, doesn't know or care if it's a 500 or a JTV that is connected to it. So what appears that a safe thing to do would be to adjust the output of the DC buck converter used in these projects to the voltage that is output by an XPS A-B box. (In my opinion, it's probably not really required to take this precaution, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to do it!) So to take this safe approach, we need to know what voltage an XPS supplies to the guitar. I have two XPS switch boxes, and they're slightly different. The Line 6 logos are different and the operation of the power LED is also different. One of the boxes came with my original early release Variax 500. The other one was supplied with either the 600 or my JTV 59. I think the documentation refers to the XPS supply as optional, so it most likely came with the 600. I've never even plugged that one in until today, to run a voltage check... What I found is, the output from these two XPS boxes appears to be a well-regulated, nominal 7 volts DC. Specifically, the output of one of them is rock-solid at 6.98 volts, and the other one is 7.01 volts. That's pretty darned close... So my recommendation to anyone considering using this adapter scheme to supply power to any model of Variax via the TRS cable, would be to set the output to 7 volts. The guitar shouldn't know any better, and will thank you for it.
  12. JTV power options, at least at the time that this was written. See page 7. James Tyler Variax Pilot's Handbook I can confirm that my JTV-59 works with the XPS footswitch/power supply.
  13. The post in which I first proposed using a DC-DC converter to power my Variax 600 discussed an onboard solution that replaced the Variax 6-cell battery holder, and was, indeed, targeted for the original Variax 300/500/600 guitars. But the original circuit can easily be modified with a few additional components so that it can sit on the floor and provide guitar power via the TRS connector, along with the guitar signal, which is passed through from the Variax to an amplifier. (XLR connection and functionality are not included.) But it works reliably as a power source, as testified to by Westryder, who wrote Although I defer to psarkissian's official forum voice and expertise, I would expect that it would also work with other Variax guitars that use the XPS box. Here's a quote from the JTV Pilot's Guide that discusses powering the JTV without a battery: "Note: There are two ways to supply power to Variax without a battery. When connected to VDI Digital Input equipped hardware, such as a POD X3 Live, power is supplied via this connection. Or, use the optional XPSDI direct box/power supply and TRS cable. With this box you can power your Variax and it also works as an A/B box to send your signal out of a DI to go direct to a board or acoustic amplifier with certain models." Variax external power supply (corrected).pdf
  14. Hi,

     

    Read your post on the alternate power source for the Variax thread, and have a comment or two. I'm the guy who created the original construction project that's discussed in the thread, and may be able to help.

     

    Best way is via email, when I can send you a diagram that I made to help out the user called Westryder.  If you wish to have a direct link with me, you can do it via Gmail.com, with cbrillow being the first part of the address. 

    1. scott4est

      scott4est

      Sorry, just saw your email. That would be great! Thanks so much! I will email you now.

  15. Consider yourself lucky, Ryder. This forum is littered with posts from unhappy Amplifi owners whose amps turned to doorstops or boat anchors from failed updates. I bought a used 150 in 2017, and it crashed & burned while trying to update it to the latest firmware. I tried several times under the guidance of Line 6 tech support, who confirmed that everything I had done was 'by the book', yet it still failed. Line 6 fixed it for 'free' after I spent over $100 to have it returned to California -- the only place that could do the repair. And they didn't even bother to let me know what they had done to fix it. I had to ask. The answer: reloaded firmware. Yeah, uh huh. I'd recommend using this thing for a bedroom toy, and not rely on it as a gigging amp. It will fail at the most inopportune time.
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