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cbrillow

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cbrillow last won the day on November 27 2018

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About cbrillow

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  1. "We're"??? Do you have a frog in your pocket? You don't appear to be a credentialed Line 6 representative and your only two posts here, while being readable, don't seem to be based upon anything of substance that you have to offer. What are you trying to pull?
  2. I'd say that, unless there's a significant difference in what you're expecting to read and what you see, you'll be in good shape. My experience has been that the output of AC supplies, such as the ones for your XPS mini, is generally not that close to the rated value, and is often a little higher. (not in your case, though...) More significantly, it usually goes into the first stage of an on-board power supply -- almost always into a full-wave or bridge rectifier to convert to pulsating DC, then filtered and regulated by a semiconductor device to create the actual operating DC. The raw ac voltage from the transformer can also be somewhat dependent on the incoming voltage from your house wiring. Very unlikely to be a problem unless it's way out of whack. Battery voltages are nominal, depending upon type and age. NiMHs are different from Alkalines and nicads. A tenth of a volt is not unusual to see, and it's certainly not a problem. Again, the first thing that an incoming voltage -- ac or dc -- sees is often a voltage conversion or regulation circuit. The actual operating range for consumer equipment is very likely to be + or - a volt or more. They have to account for sagging voltage from batteries before the performance starts to degrade or cut off entirely. Good that it zeroes on your resistance ranges, but even it being off a minor amount there doesn't indicate a significant problem. I'm betting that it will be just fine to perform your testing!
  3. Guessing that you bought this 'used' - was it from a reputable dealer, online auction or private individual? Were any claims made with regard to its working condition? psarkissian has helped you out with a link, so that's one problem solved... Good information. Let's simplify your connections to see if we can find where the problem is. Since you have put in fresh batteries, remove the XPS footswitch and Helix from the equation. Plug your regular 1/4" mono cable into the Variax output jack and connect it to your guitar amp. If you have sound, this will verify the output of the Variax, and we can take it from there... Yes, this is the VDI connection, a digital interface that permits some Line 6 devices to power and control Variax guitars. The pinout is the same as a Cat-5 ethernet cable, but it's advised that a regular Cat-5 not be used, even though it will work. The reason that it's not advised to use a Cat-5 cable is that the correct cable for making this connection has a metal shell (made by Neutrik) that looks like an XLR microphone connector, and it provides protection and proper pin positioning in the jacks. In a pinch, you could try the Cat-5 connection, but be very careful, and avoid moving around a lot... You're on radar -- keep listening to the control tower!
  4. In my mind, the answer is pretty simple: 'Volts is volts'... In other words, as long as you're supplying the guitar with the clean, regulated, protected and AC-line isolated voltage that it wants to see, it shouldn't care if they're coming from a battery or Mr. Fusion... I would advise checking out the converter board very carefully to verify that it works as-advertised when you receive it. Sometimes 'imported' products can be dodgy. You should be able to verify its functionality with a simple voltmeter. Take your time, double check all your connections and -- have fun!
  5. Hello, Hope you don't mind my 'butting in' on your conversation with westryder, but this is a topic in which I'm very interested. The board you've linked to looks like a good match for your project! It appears that it's very versatile in terms of both input and output voltages. The only thing I would be hesitant about would be if you were trying to use it near one of the limits of either the minimum or maximum input or output voltages. But you'd be using it comfortably in the middle of the range for both input and output, so it looks like a very good choice. Good luck with your project - keep rocking!
  6. If you wish to have a direct link with me, you can do it via Gmail.com, with cbrillow being the first part of the address. I'm always happy to keep in touch and was very pleased to hear that your project worked well! Yeah, that works too, and is easier than using separate parts! My gosh, I guess my first Variax is around 18 years old, or so. I ordered it before they actually started to ship to music stores! The one that I built the power supply for is a 600 that I bought in around 2007 or so. (and probably have played it for less than a couple of hours, total...) Don't have any idea about the newest line of the Variax, those made since the sale to Yamaha. Maybe they have eliminated use of the XPS? Take care, my friend, and drop me a line via email, if you'd like..
  7. Yes, I do remember that English wasn't your native language, and the other details of your message make it clear that it was you that I'd been in contact with! I did have a different diagram, similar to this 'final version', but think there was a wiring error on that one. It's also possible that I send something cruder before this one. At any rate, I've often wondered if you'd managed to put together your project, but as crazy as the world has been with Covid the past year, wasn't surprised that we've lost contact. I'm delighted to know that it's you! If I were a couple of years younger, I'm sure I would've immediately recognized your forum ID. I THOUGHT it might be you, but my memory isn't as sharp as it once was. Have fun and may you and your Variax enjoy many years together!
  8. Very happy to help, my friend! Some time ago, I drew up a wiring diagram for someone who wanted to use the board the same way you have - in a box, as a replacement of the XPS Footswitch. I didn't post that diagram in the forum, I sent it to him via a personal message. I looked for that message and can't find it! It looks like direct messaging may have been removed from the forum's functionality. Booooo! But I did find the attachment, and I'm including it here. Obviously, you don't need this, because you figured out all the details yourself. But it may help someone else looking to do the same as you. Variax external power supply (corrected).pdf
  9. Ouch -- probably should've verified it compatibility with the Amplifi. Better reach out to Line 6 customer service on this. I'm guessing that you won't get much help from this forum, which is user-based. Psarkissian may check respond, but it'll probably mean a trip to a Line 6 repaid depot or California...
  10. I'm guessing that he drew that conclusion from the title: Line 6 Expert Most of us realize that this is an honorary designation that reference your contributions to the forum, but usnavychiefret probably didn't...
  11. Congratulations on your build, westryder! Very glad to hear that you found a suitable DC - DC converter and it worked for you! This is a dead-easy solution, and it should be very safe, given the protections built into these modules!
  12. This looks like an advert from 6 or 7 years ago…
  13. If I am reading this correctly, you purchased this new 2 months ago? If that's the case, you should have an active warranty, and you may also be within the return period, depending upon the vendor from which you purchased it. That gives you a couple of options to pursue. At minimum, reach out to Line 6 customer service, either through the website or via phone. My experience with them has been mostly positive, and they should be able to advise you on steps to take to obtain warranty service. Don't expect that they will see your forum post and reach out to you -- this forum is primarily a peer-support tool, and only one Line 6 employee contributes to the discussion, on occasion. If you have the option to return it for refund, this would be a good opportunity to exercise it -- you've purchased a product that, while it may have been 'new', it's basically abandoned by its maker and will almost certainly see no updates or improvement in the future. There have been none for several years now.
  14. I have an AMPLIFI 30 and an AMPLIFI 150, both of which use an FBV Shortboard MK2, which makes for a very versatile solution when used with either of those amps. While the AMPLIFI 75 with the FBV Express MK2 sounds like a decent buy at $275, the EXPRESS is very limiting, as it's a 4-switch box that doesn't control individual amp effects, and I don't think that it allows switching banks, either. (May be wrong on that...) I also have the Brand X amp that you mentioned, which is similar in size and power to the AMPLIFI 30, and costs about the same, brand-new. I'll be honest and say that I've not used it much since buying it, but that's because I've been doing a lot of other things rather than playing guitar. But my impression is that it matches up well with the AMPLIFI 30 in tone, effects and amplifier models, and they sound similar to my ear. The each suffer from a critical (IMO) design deficiency in that they both lack a line output for running directly into a PA. Of course, you can mic the cabinet or use a summing cable on the headphone output, but both of those solutions are 'hacks'... The AMPLIFI has one huge advantage -- access to 25 banks of 4 presets each, controllable via the footswitch. Brand X has just been outfitted with a simple 4-switch foot pedal for selecting one of the 4 presets, but I don't think there are provisions built into the amp, itself, to store more than 4 of them. You can modify them at-will and save in one of the 4 preset locations, but that's it -- only 4. Brand X has some extra functionality that's not in AMPLIFI. But its huge advantage over the AMPLIFI is that it's still quite new and still strongly supported with firmware and app updates, the most recent of which added 3 new amplifiers and an EQ pedal. The footswitch was also developed after the unit was released, appeasing the early adopters who cried out for it. It's possible that future enhancements might include more tone storage, similar to AMPLIFI's banks, but that's just conjecture on my part. For me, the decision would be a no-brainer. I would buy a new device that's still being supported, developed and modified. I like my AMPLIFIs, but they're what I consider abandonware. If they were to come up with a firmware change -- very unlikely -- I'd be scared-to-death to attempt to update it. It failed on my 150, and I had to ship it to California at my expense to have it updated. Look in this forum for tales of woe from users whose amps have bricked during firmware updates. It's an extremely unreliable procedure, and Line 6 gives you ridiculous update advice, like telling you to keep trying different computers and USB ports until, maybe, one will work.
  15. Good luck, especially if it's not running the latest firmware and you decide to update it. These have a nasty habit of failing firmware updates and turning into boat-anchors. Of course, Line 6 will always be willing to fix it for ya. If it's under warranty, maybe even at no cost. Just hope that you don't have to send it all the way across the country - - they don't cover that. Cost me over $100 to have it fixed for 'free'. You should consider these 'abandon-ware'. There may be some 'new' unsold units sitting in stores, but Line 6 turned their backs on us with this series several years ago. Make sure that you have a backup amp...
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