amx05462

well the color doesnt matter because its just the plastic insulation that they had colored that way. glad i could help check out the other parts they have just incase something comes up in the future.

ive noticed that on full compass the cable for the bridge n the jtv is like the one was in my 300. no ribbon solid wire.. that being said are you looking for the main board or the board under the bridge. the second is avalable at full compass. and theres a main board for the accoustic. they do say it wont work with the electric models. but the only real difference i see is there is no plug in for the electric model pickups. that being said the wires could easily be soldered in place because the holes are there. i dont imagine it comes pre programmed. so you would have to load up the software just like re loading the electric program on an existing guitar. but theres no way of knowing for sure... then again i dont see line 6 making any big changes when they dont have to from model to model.. if you could get photos of the older line 6 main boards from 5 6 and 700 guitars you would notice very little change from one to the other.

seems to me line 6 does not support the older variax guitars other than this forum.

check further on the fullcompass site there are more jacks there some aresingle imput jacks for line 6. the other thing is that the metal connectors loose tension if you leave them plugged in. what i did with mine is to take it out of the guitar and plug in the 1/4 inch plug while watching which one moves the least when putting in the plug slowly then i bent that one in a bit curing that problem. its just that metal pieces that thin loose tension over time. i always unplugged my varaix when not in use. to extend the life of the plugs since they are so hard to get replacements.

btw there are parts avalable here . http://www.fullcompass.com/product/455687.html that one is for the jtv http://www.fullcompass.com/product/458195.html this one is for the 300 http://www.fullcompass.com/product/463405.html ah here ya go . this ribbon cable is the same as the one you need. it says for the 700 but the 500 and 700 are ste up the same for this cable with the same board plugs. shouldnt take long to fix it now ;D

i agree with charlie there is no way this would get damaged on its own.

sounds like the coffin case problem again. the board is too close to the metal case and can short out the guitar. most people either paint it with non conductive paint or liquid electrical tape.

i put all my grounds together and put them into a loop connector and put that on the post that the main board goes over then two nuts to keep everything tight. never had a problem but as i recall the pickup hots are in the middle 6 connectors and theres a ground on either end and you should be able to put them in there. i striped the wires with a torch. did a nice neat job and they were clean. 1/8 for the hot wires and 1/2 for the grounds for my method. if you solder them into the board 1/4 inch should be enough

one of the places i would check is the wiring harness going from under the bridge to the main board. check where the wires go into the plug ends for anything loose. also be sure to check the ends that plug in for looseness as well. then i might check the solder joints of the plug in ends on your boards. one more thing the strings go right through the pcb board under your bridge i dont know how you have that board secured. withthe original bridge it was held in place with a screw. on the 600 i believe its double sided tape which insulates it. you want to see if the board is being pulled bu string pressure and possibly shorting against the bridge plate. i added electrical tape between that board and the bridge plate to ensure no shorts. also a second nut to lock the board in place.

300 and 500 are slightly different i believe the 500 is similar to the 700 in that it has a ribbon cable to the main board and the 300 has hard wires in a plug end. that to my knowledge is the only difference. if you do what i did seperating the wires as i said above and stripping them with a torch youll have plenty of wire to work with if you mess one up . i learned that the hard way ofcourse. i looked for my instructions that i had posted in a section called variax transplants that doesnt seem to exist anymore since they revamped the forum. i also transplanted it twice once inot a danelectro dc2 and then into an epiphone dot with a bunch of other stuff. worked well both times. main thing is take the time it takes and youll be fine. just make sure all solder joints are nice and shiny when your done and you wont have any problems . as i said before its well worth the effort. this will solve all grounding problems and the respnse and volume issues as well. you will be pleased.

what you may want to do is get a small round file and make the v cut a round cut in the saddle to the diameter of your strings. as mentioned above the fender style saddle pickups have a rounded contact area. so naturally you would have a larger contact area vs the two point contact onthe v cut saddles.

the stock piezos ground from the chrome cover to the saddle to the bridge via string pressure and the height adjusting screws., graphtech pickups are the answer to this grounding problem as well as output and muddiness problems. i was one of the first if not the first to do this instalation. i can tell you that output doubled the muddiness disapeared and volume from string to string evened out imediately. as to putting them in. well its a job but well worth it inthe end. i used to have a few posts on this in the inthe variax transplant section. i have no idea if this even exists anymore as i havent been here in some time. you can try clicking on my name and possibly find it that way. but here it is quickly . the main problem is stripping the wires. silver is hot blue is ground . you have to split them apart. that i did with a set of nipper plyers. if you use a razor knife you will cut one of the wires too short. then removing the insulation at the end is also difficult . what i did was melt it off with a small torch. i virtually dispears and leaves you with a clean end ready for soldering. that being said its just a matter of mounting them to the bridge then soldering each respective silver wire to its place onthe board and what i did for ground was twist them all together and solder them to a loop and put that on the screw that holds the pcb in place there.. or you can try to get those six wires into the hole for ground on the board as well. i found the loop to be easier. i used a second nut so not only do you get a good ground but you lock in this pcb board as well. saves problems when changing strings . the one nut line 6 uses loosens and sometimes the board moves position. good luck.

ive seen them once in a blue moon on ebay.

yes you have to router the body for it and if you dont use an original variax tremelo bridge youll have to make alterations to the one you put on.

in past if some users left the batteries in there older variax when using external power the main board would cycle bac and fourth to both power supplies. removing the batteries solved this problem for some . others found that there was a resistor problem on the main board.

i put the graphtech pickups on my 300 way back and i can tell you that there was a world of difference on the positive side. it is a bit of work to do this but well worth the effort. since you seem to be indicating a low output from your guitar by what im reading i would suggest you check your bridge grounds. bad solder joints seemed to be a problem back when... the other problem with the stock pickups in alot of cases was pickup ground. mainly this . the pickup grounds from the chrome body of it to the saddle to the bridge plate by contact and pressure of the string on it. that being said lots of people ahd problems here due to an accumulation of crud off there hands to put it bluntly. the graphtech pickup totally eliminates this problem. pickup is enclosed in the saddle and has a hard wire ground to the board under the bridge plate.