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amx05462

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Everything posted by amx05462

  1. good luck line 6 software can be a pain in the neck to use
  2. well id open it up and geta can of that dust off stuff and spray the entire board then try it again. at this point what have you got to loose. also if your in a moist environment and that doesnt work try tossing in a few desecant packs and let it dry out for a month. yould be surprised that the little bit of moisture can mess up electronics. my brother has done this many times and i can tell you it works, again what have you got to loose at this point . do not use any kind of contact cleaner though . bad news for circut boards
  3. some times ya got to bite the bullitt and move on if your not getting what you want.
  4. amx05462

    Fret buzz

    first of all if its minor you wont see the bow in the neck. you should get a straight edge to check for the bow in the neck. most players want a bit of a bow. that same straight edge will also show you if there is a high fret. for the high fret or one thats coming loose . you just tap it back in place with a rubber hammer. usually on strats there is a 008 to 010 bow in the neck from the factory. as to the truss rod adjustment . being its a low price fender product 1/8 turn counter clockwise will do the trick. by right you should use a notched straight edge to check the actual neck bow but most people dont have one . a regular one will do the job though. as to having a tech do a setup not a bad idea if he knows what hes doing. ive never had one set up the way i like it so i learned to do it myself. so go to stewart mcdonalds web site. they have a book called guitar player repair guide that will tell you how to do anything you need to not only set up your guitar but fix any problem you may have in the future. on fender type guitars each saddle has 2 screws on it for raising or lowering the saddle and string. just need an allen wrench to do it . in that book are the specs from the factory. personally i like as little bow in the neck as possible. so i set my action real low. but thats me . youll also see in the book different players setups the price of the book will be a good investment instead of having to go to a guitar tech and pay every time you have a problem.. btw if you ever buy a variax.... pretty much most guitar tech dont know anything.. i went to guitar center recently and picked up a used variax 600 in almost perfect condition. so the salesman /tech wanted to sell me a warantee...lol when i got done talking he said you dont need a warantee you know much more than we doand i had taught him alot he didnt know about variax.. so do your self a favor and buy the book
  5. like all software and software based products, eventually support dries up and the company moves on.. i guess it would be like asking microsoft to still support ms dos. or to have the people who used to make 8 track players hold onto parts for them incase one or two users still use them. companies are in business to make money. youll see the same complaints about support for first gen variax guitars, the company just moved on. yeah users are pist. but they will eventually either upgrade or do something else. personally i owned a variax 300. it wasnt all that reliable till i changed out the ickups for graphtechs. i wouldnt buy any amp thats going to need upgrades in software. no thanks ill stick with my twin reverb and ac 30 and my vox tonelab. yeah they are all old but never break down or suffer from non support .
  6. just un solder it from the board and pull it out. reverse to put the new one in
  7. ebay guitar parts? or you can just make one. you cna buy the plastic on ebay too http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC1.A0.H0.Xguitar+truss++rod++cover&_nkw=guitar+truss++rod++cover&_sacat=0
  8. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Line-6-Workbench-Variax-Guitar-Workbench-Software-Macintosh-Windows-New-/331333174143?pt=US_Computer_Recording_Software&hash=item4d24ff037f http://www.zzounds.com/item--LIN991000105
  9. well in case you do decide to change it for one of the roller nuts its a big more work but well worth it. i have one on my strat . good stuff always in tune no matter what i do with the trem. anyhow good luck with the other one.
  10. fender makes a very nice roller nut. avalable on ebay as well http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fender-099-0812-000-LSR-Roller-Nut-Brushed-Chrome-/361053823873?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item54107c2381
  11. you may have to go with an older version of java this was a problem back when
  12. people in the past had trouble because of there version of java. changing to an older version would cure the connectivity problem. unfortunately the old forum is gone so i cant tell you which version it was. but that was the cure
  13. hes right you can get them anywhere but................ i suggest this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/THREADED-STEEL-GUITAR-NECK-INSERT-SCREWS-TELE-STRAT-/251620304113?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3a95bd24f1 specially if your neck is still good. these work great.
  14. no what im saying is the tremelo block underneath should fit your existing tremelo plate saving you all the work of having to dirll and debur holes for the pickup wires. so putting that on will give you the threaded trem arm you seem to want from the above posts. if you change the whole thing out your gonna have to drill for the pickup wires and youll have to be real sure there are no burrs in those pickup wire holes or youll eventually wear away your insulation. my way you dont have to sweat that out.
  15. http://www.fullcompass.com/product/450983.html the part onthe left seems to have the model selector on it you may be able to unsolder it and put it in your guitar its the one on the left side of the board on the left.
  16. since you like the hard tail you have a couple of options. 1) block the tremelo which meand you put a wooden block between the tremelo and body locking it in place. or add more and heavier springs so it locks in place . and loose the existing arm. or third option just change out the existing tremelo block to a fender one with a threaded arm which you seem to want.. a mexican block should work i doubt the american block would match up since the graph tech pickus i used on mine had to be for the mexican strat. ..... have fun.
  17. i had those green wires inmy 300 and they were screwed to the body. i didnt see that they did any good there because there was no shielding to ground to. the shielding was the coffin case. i didnt use them . but thinking back they probably should have been grounded to the 1/4 inch output.
  18. actually the pick guard is not screwed to the body at all when you remove the pick guard you will be able to remove the entire coffin case once unplugging the pickup connection.
  19. id start at the jack plate as stated above. had a problem with power through thr trs cable and what it turned out to be was the spring steel connection to ground with the jack out of the guitar but still hooked up you can test this easily enough by just pressing in the contacts . if this is the case then you can still get that part. if it is the harness well your on your own there. i doubt that is the case though. another power problem ive heard of were trouble with the tiny resistors on the main board.
  20. charlie is absolutely correct about the ghost pickups. i put them in my 300 and there was a world of difference and any ground problems were eliminated.
  21. http://www.fullcompass.com/product/455687.html so yours is like this then? in which case this is the correct part for that guitar and i stand corrected... thanks charlie ;)
  22. most likely the coffin case problem or something in there like a hair shorting the board.
  23. yep thats how it goes. that wire should work just fine.
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